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2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
I don't hear any clicking. The lights all come on bright.
I got my 2 year old battery checked and that was ok. Battery terminals are clean.
None of the warning lights come on like the check engine light.
Any ideas where the problem might be? Starter relay? Starter?
thanks in advance
Thanks, cneading
real problem for many. Do a search on here and you should find a method for checking it and replacing. It is a do it yourself job.
First thing first, if your Check Engine light is on, go to an auto part store and have them scan the engine. this is free at Pep boys, Auto Zone, Advance Auto part, etc. When this light is on, one of the many sensors in your car is not functioning properly and has left a code. This code gives you an idea of what may be wrong with your car.
Get your oil level checked and/or oil changed depending on the last time it was changed. The 3.5L engine in the Intrigue is known to burn oil so you could very well be low on oil. Also your vehicle has a oil life monitor that measure the rpms in your car and recommends an oil change after a certain time. You need to reset this monitor each time you change your oil. the directions to do this:
1. turn key to the On position but do not start vehicle.
2. depress the fully depress the accelerator 3 times
3. wait about 3 seconds and the "change oil" light will flash.
4. Once it has stop flashing, the oil life monitor is reset.
As far as the car dying at the stop sign, it could be a couple of things which are common issues with the Intrigue. It could be your ignition switch, crankshaft sensor or fuel pressure regulator. the answer may also be found with the "check Engine" light.
A burned out turn signal will make the turn signal flash "double time".
do you have any other lights that stay on after you start the vehicle? If your ABS is not working, the brake light should aslo be on.
If you are not in a hurry, i would suggest ordering from www.gmpartsdirect.com or www.rockauto.com. Both should be cheaper then the dealership but it will take a couple of days to arrive.
I had the same thing happen to me. Very common problem on the Intrigues.
I hit upon the idea of using dielectric grease inside the socket. It seems to have done the trick
The male and female connectors will wipe enough of the grease off at the mating surface so that the electricity will flow just fine. The important part is that there is no chance of the grease creating a conductive path between adjacent terminals in a multi-terminal socket. The main purpose of the grease is to seal the terminals against oxidation which creates a high resistance barrier and moisture and dirt which can result in shorts and ground paths.
You should be able to purchase this grease at an automotive parts supply store.
I would borrow a code reader to see if there is a code stored. Most of the regulars have seen the common codes and can probably help you.
BTW, Make sure the battery is fine.
Thanks again
1. Is it possible there is some sort of short affecting both windows now.
2. Seems odd that the motor would go bad in both doors.
3. Other ideas of what might be the problem.
Thank you
There are plenty of window motors on ebay, which tells me that they go bad frequently. Actually, using the motor will make it last longer. It kinda follows the old saying of "use it or lose it." A good place to get new parts is gmpartsdirect.com
bank 1= side with #1 cylinder: sensor 2= after catalyst.
The heater is possible open, a wire is broken or a corroded connector from the sensor back to the cpu. there is a fuse for the heaters in the o2 sensors 15Amp.
P1372.....Crankshaft Position Sensor A-B correlation
Above the starter solonoid behind the exhaust manifold on the 3.5.
Perhaps a bad sensor or dirty connector again. Replacing or moving adjusting the crank position sensor will let the car run, however, you need to have it relearned via a scan tool Thus learning the pcm about the new angles
If you go back to the original Intrigue forum (the one with 12,000 posts), you'll see the alternator is problematic causing many headaches with flickering lights. Some caused more serious problems. If you do a search for "alternator" in that forum, you might find an answer to your problem.
If he is thinking purge valve, then it may well be the EVAP system which recovers fuel vapors from the tank and keeps them from venting to the atmosphere. This would be a P04xx code.
Also the power distribution box does not transfer power anywhere, it is simply a fuse box(like the one in your house), that splits the battery power through fuses to individual circuits. The PCM / Ecm is what does all the magic. He may be thinking of changing it and hence the software reload. I'd be more inclined to look for broken wires from the pcm to te valve etc.
Nevertheless, the money light can be activated by literally hundreds and hundreds of different codes.
Without knowing the code, your like a rat in a maze.
What engine do you have?
cheers
thanks again.
P1372 - crank position sensor A-B http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=452633&highlight=P137- - 2
P0449 - Fuel tank vent circuit fault
Sounds like a loose gas cap?????
P0443, P0418, P0412, p0410
These are all related to the secondary air pump which is problematic in 3.5L engine. I think replacing the air pump will resolve all the problems. Here's a discussion on the topic. Pay close attention to post #10 and after.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=223259&highlight=P041- - 8
P0385 - also refers to the crank position sensor
Right now your car will not pass the emissions portion of the inspection. It looks like the replacing the crank position sensor and looking at the secondary air pump will solve those codes. I would try an independent shop instead of the dealer. You'll save some money.
As far as brakes and tires, it sounds like you will need to replace those whether you keep the car or not. These items are safety issues. To me it is a no-brainer esp. if it is your daughter's car. All told you are probably looking at $1500 in costs. You have to determine if the rest of the vehicle is in good enough shape that the car will last at least another year without a major repair. I have 147k miles on my 2000 Intrigue.
BTW, here is a list of OBDII codes for GM:
http://service.gm.com/gmspo/mode6/pdf/2000/2000file9.pdf
Get a mechanic to give you a parts list, and check gmpartsdirect.com with the part numbers. They are really Flow Chevrolet in No.Carolina. I just got a window regulator/motor from them for $250 to my door total, versus $365 plus tax at the dealer. The air pump valves are also significantly cheaper. There are other parts stores out there selling GM parts, usually dealers wanting to turn inventory and make some money. I googled oldsmobile parts and got several others out there.
How many miles are on your intrigue? The 3.5L is a strong engine, and you see quite a few intrigues on ebay with 180K+ miles.
Basically what we are trying to tell you is there are cheaper options then the dealer that can keep your costs on parts down.
The engine is not the problem on this car. It's the transmission you have to worry about. Still you should easily squeak out 150k miles.
Good Luck.
Can you point me to any discussions about the pump valves continuing to fail without replacing the pump? I might need some ammo for the dealer if it happens again.