Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Again, I'm no expert, but I do listen to good advice, and I think that this is good advice. 70K miles and no problems to speak of. A mechanic friend hooked-up
his $4K scan tool the other day to the Escape. Absolutely, no codes were pulled, which he said was strange, as his experience shows that most vehicles will store
codes and eventually either get fixed, or continue to be a potential problem. I think he was quite surprised, because he's a Chevy-guy all the way. He's trying to convert me over, but I'm not there yet. I may end-up getting another Escape again
eventually, which would probably chap-him.
I haven't experienced any problems between 2nd-3rd gear as you mentioned. Transition shifts seems to be smooth so far.
I had the throttle cable replaced (recall) & the only other problem I've had is the cheap Continental tires they put on the Escapes & Tributes. They rumble, they're out of round, but they won't replace them. Their excuse is "they can't hear the rumble".
The guy waiting in line behind me said, "his girlfriend has a Mazda 6 (5 speed auto) & her transmission went out at 12,000 miles". What's with the Mazda transmissions?
My wife has a '04 Mazda 6s V6 & we've had a lot of problems with it also. 600 miles & the main seal started leaking. They replaced it, then a line from the transmission cooler started leaking. They put a screw clamp on it behind the factory clamp, but didn't tighten it enough, so it still leaked when she brought it home. Took the car back & started inquiring about the lemon law. They got defensive & never fixed the transmission leak. Their excuse was it wasn't leaking & it was obvious they didn't want a paper trail on problems with the car. I jacked the car up & fixed the leak my self. The screw clamp wasn't tight, so I tightened it 1-1/2 turns, hasn't leaked since! Good mechanic huh! The dealership is POLAR CHEV/MAZDA IN WHITE BEAR LAKE MINNESOTA. We've had problems with these vehicles, but I like the way they handle on the road. We also have a '98 Honda Accord V6, not one problem since it was new. But the new Honda's also have problems with their 5-speed auto tranny.
Definitely recommend you have a trusted mechanic give it a thorough inspection before buying though. Good luck.
My brother has a 99 Explorer, and the cargo area is bigger, but I must say back seat passengers have way better leg room in the Escape, not to mention how much better the handling is compared to the Explorer (Escape feels like a sports car in comparison).
Thanks
Well, I had the dealer replace the IAC module and it appears to be working fine now. They did the IAC replacement at the beginning of last week, so I will drive it for a few weeks to see if it does its stalling thing again. I did also ask them to check to on the recalls and both of them were done back in January.
On another note, ever since they replaced the IAC module, my gas mileage has been really taking a beating. Since I've owned the truck (bought it last October), I was religiously getting at least 600 kms (372 miles) on a tank of regular gas (my tank is 57 litres or roughly 15 US gallons). Sometimes I would get as high as 650 kms if I did all highway driving. Now, since they put the new IAC module on, I've been lucky to get 400 kms (or 248 miles) on a tank. I've only gone through one tank of regular gas since they put the new module on the truck. I even took it back into the dealer the other day (when my tank was at 1/2 full) so they could check it over. They rechecked the IAC module (which was fine) and also tested the fuel mileage with a handheld computer, which revealed an instantaneous 27.8 mpg over a 10 km (6.2 mile) trip. This does not make any sense, as I was only able to get abut 16 or 17 mpg on the tank after the IAC was replaced (248 / 15).
The service manager said that the fuel guage works a little weird on the Tributes. Above the 1/2 mark, the fuel guage marker takes a longer time to drop from full to 1/2 than from going from 1/2 to empty. Not sure if I buy that one or not but he had also said that it works the same way on a 6 or a 3.
I drive the truck pretty much from home to work, which is a 50 km (30 mile) round-trip, and is mostly highway, at speeds of 80-110 km (50-70 mph). Since it is still spring up here (in Eastern Canada), I have not had the A/C on at all. Right now, the truck has 120,000 kms on it (74,560 miles) and I don't know if I should get rid of it over the next few weeks and look for something else or keep it.
Any ideas?
freddy
PS: I hope you didn't pay too much for replacement. IAC is very cheap (~ $50 US) and breeze to install.
I'm also starting to hear suspension groans. But that I will treat with silicone spray.
Anyway they put me in a rental overnight and when I picked it up I was told that the regulator did not need to be replaced but he did tighten it down and they also lubed the tracks.
Did it work, NO!
So, I guess I will live with it...
When the radio is on I can't hear it, unless its talk radio...
I read somewhere else about putting some lube on the weather stripping or something but I haven't tried it yet, I need to pick up some sort of a silicone gel to rub into that rubbery gasket along the window frame, that could possible work.
:confuse:
Mileage = 96,000
I started to shop around for ext. warranty. The prices range from $2,500 and up for 7y/100k miles and around $2000 for 5y/75k-100k miles
Basically I have 3 questions.
1) Should I wait until end of August and buy day before expiration or buy it now with current mileage?
2) Should I stick with warranty from Mazda dealership or third-party warranty like DS(Dealer Services) letters we're getting by mail periodically?
3) Are the prices I getting from dealerships seem right?
Thanks a lot!
Took my wife's escape to the dealer yesterday for tranny flush. After I got back home I looked at the invoice closely, says they replaced the fluid with Mercon V, not Mercon. I'm hoping this is just a typo on their part. Mercon V is no good in this tranny correct?????
I am going back to the dealer tomorrow morning when they are open to complain. Any chance you think they put Mercon in, just typed Mercon V? They charged me $19.00 for 12 quarts of Mercon V, which seems cheap to me.
Also , if damage occurs, do you think the dealer is at fault? I don't see how it could not be.
-Mrshark
Just had the latest computer flash done. Seems very odd, but everytime I get one of the purported 'PCM-upgrades' done my mileage seems to go down. For instance June 2004, I had the re-flash done per recall. Mileage went from 18-19 City to 16-17 City. With the latest upgrade (done ~2-weeks ago) I expected to
re-coup my mileage or so at least I thought. I've been through 2 (soon to be 3) full-tanks of gas and my average mileage is about 14-16. I don't know what kind of upgrades Ford is doing, but it's obviously not working to improve mileage figures.
I could get a full-size V8 pick-up and get the same mileage in-town. This really sucks big-time. I'm going to request that the dealer re-flash the PCM back to
at least one program-back.
I've had the upper-induction service and fuel injector service done several thousand
miles back. Either the engine is getting less efficient or there has to be something else wrong. Any ideas appreciated.
tranny problems long before I had the Escape. I had a friend who had a 1997
Mazda 626. His transmission gave-out at 75K miles. I didn't know that the
Escape had a modified (and hopefully) improved version of the CD4E transmission
until about 1-year after I purchased the Escape. Looks like it may not be that much improved, if any, from what Mazda is loading into the 626's in the past and present.
I have contacted a reputable transmission specialist who obviously needs to put it on the dyno immediately. Judging from my description, he thinks it may be the
torque convertor, which can be replaced separately, but may have caused enough damage (if it's the problem) to warrant a complete rebuild. I'll let you know once I
have it done what the diagnosis/prognosis is.
Cannot load any cds, remains in the wait position. It is empty.
How did you resolve your cd player problem?
Not sure what to tall you. I find it hard to believe that "all Tributes", as your dealer rep stated, make these noises. Have you tried another dealer? Have you tried driving a different Tribute? I have never seen complaints like this one on other Escape/Tribute message boards...
Good luck!
Frankly, since I can't verify the identity and ownership of posters, I don't believe everyhting I read in Internet, I recommend you the same thing.
Mazda does know about my problem. Also, when I filled out the survey after the new car purchase I mentioned the window creaking and the cheap inside door handles and last week Mazda called and did a follow up survey over the phone that lasted at least ten minutes.
I am fast approaching the end of my 100,000 mile powertrain warranty. Without it the past year would have cost me a couple thousand dollars for two transmission overhauls, front wheel bearings, and front axle CV joints. What wasn't covered was the motor to the rear wiper that cost me $336.
Would I purchase a vehicle based on any posts on Edmunds? I guess that would be silly. Do I believe everything I read, absolutely not. I believe some people would, but I believe in doing my homework before I spend $20,000+. Would I go out of my way to accuse posters of lying, thats not my style. I find it silly that someone would take the time to sit and post messages that aren't true, but I guess there are people that might.
My last purchase was a 2004 Freestar that has been maintenance free, knock on wood. Because of that little rear window motor on the Escape I purchased the Extra care bumper to bumper 100,000 warranty for it. Now everything is covered with a $50 deductible as will all my future Fords I purchase. Spending thousands on new vehicles, these extra warranties are pennies a day for piece of mind.
You need to apply two layers of electric tape to latch. After that, you are not going to hear that noise.
For your windows, search in Honda forums. Honda mechanics use slicone spray to quite down/eliminate the windows sound on Honda models. You might want to do the same thing.
Also where on the hatch do I put the double layer of tape, I just looked and there is a post on the floor do I wrap the post with the tape?
Please help me....
For the windows, I don't think that you need to uninstall anything. Slicone spray goes into channels where glass is moving up and down (I hope my description is clear..). I read this fix when I owned Accord. The Honda tech "Auburn" (very helpful person) was advising owners who are having exact same problem. He is stil around, you can ask him. Pelase note, this is not the type of slicone you apply to seal things, it is a can of spray
I had noticed quite a bit of suspension noise getting into and out of the vehicle, and also when backing out of the driveway, and tapping the brakes. So I did what I have done with other cars just as a matter of course, and that is to very liberally spray all the suspension joints with lubricant. I usually use silicone spray, but in this case, I went with something a bit more potent. That actually helped. Now, as far as the body flex and resultant door creaking, if that is in fact what is happening, out of frustration, I really went to town with silicone spray, and hit all weatherstripping around the doors, latches, down inside the door through both keyway, and inside trim. There was some relief there, too. But oddly enough, since doing that, I get very distinct and loud creaks from the window when partially down. But at least I was able to confirm that by being able to press against the glass, and stop it. So I have more to do with silicone, etc. The sad part is that my Tribute is losing its "new car smell" for the aroma of WD-40.... For those of you with no creaking issues, that's great. I am sure that the smallest of assembly variances can result in what sounds like an absolute POS (can I say that?), or one which feels like it was carved from billet. My 99 Japanese-built Honda Accord was the latter. So I think I have a vehicle that is going to make these noises forever, sad to say. When it is silent, I focus on how pleasant it really is to drive. It is a brick on the interstate though, decelerating when going downhill, whereas my other cars would have gained speed. That certainly impacts gas mileage. I still have the unbelievable amount of static charge when getting out. That has to be dealt with before I burn a hole in my fingers.
How did you manage to get Japan built Accord in 99? :confuse:
Because, since September 23 -1998, Honda Marysville plant will be the sole source of Accords for North America.
And as was pointed out, I also still think the truck is great, a real value in its class and I do love to drive it...
The land of flat Florida I think helps my gas mileage as I usually see 23 MPG which I think it pretty good as my Millenia get 26...
I would have loved to get a 20 or 23 gallon tank though! I stop for gas at about 325 miles or there abouts.
facility yet for a dyno-test for the whine I hear. The more I listen, the more I don't
think it has to do with the transmission (but I could be wrong anyway). It sounds as if it's coming from the upper engine but it's hard to gauge noise location sometimes. The drivability is good and shift points seem smooth. There does not seem to be any skipping, or no-go commonly associated with tranny failure.
My mechanic-friend seems to think it may be IAC (Idle-Air Control) motor whine,
which it could be. I originally replaced the IAC at ~30K miles. May be time to replace it again at 72K miles if it's a problem. As I understand, electronic-throttle
controls on '05 Escapes and Tribs. eliminates the need for an IAC. The IAC will cost ~$65 to replace if it's the problem, and takes all of five-minutes to change.
Had to do some non-stop freeway driving the other day for about 150 miles or so,
actually got almost 21 mpg at fill-up which I've not seen in a awhile. I still seem to be getting ~16-17 in city driving.
Has anyone else had this problem and do you know of a solution besides putting it out of its misery?
Does anyone have any experience with the clutch of the 2001 Tribute DX. Is it or will it be recalled (when). Any ideas on how I can get the dealer to honor its warranty.
Your response is appreciated.
-Kimberly