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I had a chance to look at it today, Other gents on this net have complained about the same problem.
I found that there are two motors for the Lumbar and Bolster adjustments in both pick-ups and the Utilities.
Under the drivers seat is a 7 pin Wiring Connector. The color code on the connector C-305 is:
A = Orange
B = Tan
C = Black
D = No Wire
E = Pink
F = Dark Blue
G = Purple
There is a small push to release tang that is part of the connector which must be depressed before the connector will come apart.
Pulling this connector will disable both motors. Is this what you want to do?
I will investigate more at work tomorrow. There doesn`t seem to be a lead going to the body control module but I didn`t have access to the five books for very long today. ( Don`s set should arrive in about a week. )
If you want to wait for a day or two for a better research project I plan to do that.
In case you simply pull this connector apart right away PLEASE advise:
1. Are the connector color codes and order of placement correct.
2. Did pulling the connector apart give you a message on the vehicles message center?
Irv. ( Filling in for Don.)
Definitely a poor design if someone else can confirm a similar experience.
don4341: do the manuals show if the lumbar/bolster switch on the side of the seat can be rotated 180 degrees so that when the upper part of the switch is inadvertently activated, if it is already fully "deflated", it will have no effect?
Thanks to anyone who can help....
Here is a link to pickuptruck.com that has some good info on this subject.
http://forums.pickuptruck.com/Forum11/HTML/004369.html
BlueBurb
Ryan
The middle row headrests do not fold. Wish they did, like on the hoe.
Subliminal
A 180 degree flop can`t be done due to the unbalanced switch mounting hardware.
Wish I could tell you otherwise. If anyone else with a manual has a different view please post.
Irv.
The 2001 Service Manual Set surely has info on On-Star so I don`t understand your Service Managers comment about "No info on On-Star" The manual said that one copy is sent to each GM Service Shop as soon as it is published. Even if they didn`t get a "freeby" they sure as H___ should order one, or a CD version of the info.
Irv.
DO NOT attempt to check the wiring in the steering wheel housing. Accidental deployment of the air bag can break fingers or break you neck if you are in a bad alignment with the bag. A 13 step SIR Disable procedure must be performed by qualified technicians. After that, page 8-604 can be used -along with a ohm meter - to test the 6 audio controls on the steering wheel.
The volume up cat. = 1270 ohms.
The volume down cat. = 294 ohms.
The MUTE cat. = 823 ohms
The Seek Up cat. = 715 ohms
The Seek Down Cat. = 1115 ohms
The Preset cat, = 9350 ohms
To make these readings the technician is directed to REMOVE the steering Wheel SIR Module and to remove a fuse. Again please DON`I attempt this yourself - just wanted you to know that these simple ohm meter checks are spelled out in Volume 5 of our Service Manual. I`ll ask Don to check my findings after he gets home this week end. He may post additional items. Just trying to apply a little background info.
Iv.
to use until his copy arrives. That rascal got me hooked on trying to provide some info to those who didn`t have Service Manuals. It has been a real hoot. This is great bunch. I`ll check in with Don now and then until he recovers fully. Good health to all
Irv.
Skipjack 2
Steve
Host
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Just wanted to say that the abbreviation "Ckt." - which I use for circuit - somehow got printed as "cat".
How I don`t know.
Irv.
Cellular service is covered in Volume 5, pages 638 through 678.
A good Service Tech. - using a scan tool - will probably discover that there is set, one of three DTC codes. Any of these will give you a RED LED.
DTC-B2462 = The VIU (Vehicle Interface Unit) does
not see a GPS signal from the Sat. Ant
DTC-B2476 = OnStar key pad has incorrect voltage.
should be 2.8 to 3.2 VDC
DTC-U1500 = Fault in Digital Data Circuit maybe
12 VDC feed or no data.
Since you removed the original Amp I suspect you will have a DTC-U1500 Trouble Code Set. If you fax me a copy of the hook-up wiring I will try to see how we can satisfy the missing data on the bus. Can`t guarantee but will try.
Manual also states that after trouble is cleared a scan tool must send a CLEAR message to get rid of the RED light.
Will read more when I get home in a couple of hours. My Fax Number is 410-859-3184.
Can`t talk right all the time but at least I can type - sort of O.K. Please be patient for a while. Hand-eye and thought processes still not solid.
Shipping me out now!Good to be awake!
Don.
Installing the supplied fuse provides power for both the controller and the trailer battery feed, correct?
I appreciate it.
Did you mount the controller in the pre-drilled holes under the dash in the center? I just mounted mine there, and it does not seem to get in the way.
Dave
Drive line thump when coming to a stop. and
Clattering noise(lifters/valves) when starting a cold motor.
The drive line thump was helped greatly by putting a special lubricant on the drive shaft where it enters the transmission.. It's a special GM silicone lubricant. It didn't totally eliminate the problem, but it is significantly better.
The dealer has no clue on the clattering noise when starting a cold motor. It lasts for anywhere from 1 to 5 minutes. Doesn't do it when starting a hot engine.
Has anyone with the 8.1 liter motor had this problem? If so, what was the fix? An oil change at 3000 miles had no effect.
Any info would be appreciated.
TIA
I don't know what type oil filter the 8.1 uses. I know it's not the same one that my 96's 454 used. It does sound like the top end is not getting lubed when starting. I'll have to check on the filter. Don't know if I should use any special oil additives, especially on a new motor.
To eversons- If your noise only happens when turning, then it is the locking differential. That's why I didn't get one on my 2001. My 96 had one. GM had to replace the whole rear end at 14000 miles. It also requires more service--changing the fluid every 15000 miles.
Thanks in advance for any comments. Would be willing to buy in a neighboring state if more economical.
Dealer is trying to get some info from the tech center, but so far, they haven't been much help.
Other than this problem, the truck is absolutely great. It has awesome power. It pulls my 35', 8500# travel trailer with no difficulty. The Autoride suspension is great. The truck rides better than my wife's 2000 Buick Regal LS. Love the sunroof and heated, memory seats.
Just wish it didn't clatter every morning when I crank it up.
David
If the half ton is in your future, I still would consider the Autoride, on the half ton, you get a really plush rid, and it also levels off the truck under heavy loads or when trailering, 3/4 ton dampens the ride and adjusts the shock damping in tow/haul mode, to keep from bobbing in the rear end.
In either event get the towing pkg, it is worth the money to have it done at the factory. You will get the hitch, external trans cooler(not just the one in the radiator), and the wiring harness outside near the hitch, the plug in harness for trailer brakes under the dash. Only thing you need is the slide in ball mount and ball. Really get your $230 worth in the pkg, hitch alone is $170 installed + $30 for slide out ball mount and ball, and NO wiring, was told that it would be another $50 for that. So it is actually slightly cheaper to have it done when it gets built, and you may be able to negotiate the price wit the dealer.
You can get the best of both worlds in a Denali XL. It will cost more, but is well worth the money, especially if you like toys.
Edmunds doesn't list any.
David
Thanks! Still a little bit nervous about installing the controller and fuse in a vehicle that cost more than my first house . Asked my dealer for a price to install, and he said the service guys had never done it ... but he thought someone in Parts did it in his off time.
The harness looks like it should just be "plug and play," but experience tells me that things that look easy rarely are.
Guess I should just bite the bullet and install it myself!
1. What kind of gas mileage would I expect to get on a 1992-1500, with the 5.7?
2. Is the transmission for a 92 a standard 400 or what?
3. Is the engine a run of the mill chevy 350.
4. This vehicle has 185,000 highway miles on it and runs well.(original engine& transmission) Is this excessive? How long or far do Suburbans last? (I would be useing this vehicle for local use and short trips)
5. I can buy this suburban for $2500. is this a good price? (I would/could replace the engine & transmission in the future if not too expensive.)
Thanx in advance. -Ken
The truck is great, the cost of ownership is HIGH. Bits and pieces wear out frequently (this is an old high mileage truck). I drive 40,000 miles a year, so this is an issue. If you won't be putting on lots of miles, this may work out for you.
The price you mentioned is a good price. My upkeep, repairs, and maintainence runs about $3,000 for every 40,000 miles. So add that in.
Mileage about 12.5 per gallon mixed driving.
Feel free to e-mail questions.
Steve
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