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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • don4341don4341 Posts: 69
    Helm seems to be the ONLY distributor for the true GM service manual set. The current set is GMT01CK8 which sells for $120.00 plus ship of $6.50. The set was four thick manuals and sold for the same price last several years. Ship went up 50 cents.
    Others sell general repair guides but are not as detailed as the true factory set. Of course the set covers the Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL and the Denali. In my lowly opinion and my brothers ( Don ) no other source will give you so much info.
    " Anyho " enjoy your new truck and SMILE. :c)
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    m5steve: You're the first person I have heard from on the lumbar support mysteriously inflating. It does the same to me. Are you large framed? I am 6'3" and about 240lbs and I think the lumbar support switch is activated as I swing my leg out of the seat. The upper part of the switch inflates both the bolsters and lumbar, while the lower section of the switch deflates both.

    I also prefer the lumbar and bolsters fully "deflated". The only solution I can think of is to disconnect the switch or possibly have the dealer flip the position of the switch 180 degrees (maybe it can be done without the dealer, although I haven't tried yet).

    Your mute switch simply seems to not be functioning properly as my 2001 Denali XL radio steering wheel controls work exactly as they should.
  • lambdapro1lambdapro1 Posts: 5
    Looked at a nice new base model Suburban at Huffines Chevrolet - Lewisville, TX. I am not into a lot of the fancy options. But Huffines in Lewisville is the only dealer in the area that sells a Tahoe equipped like this. Base model + cloth + Front and Rear A/C + power windows + second seat. With loyalty rebate around $26K.
  • gpvsgpvs Posts: 214

    Just curious which dealers are good in your opinion in N.VA. I'm looking at getting one of these vehicles soon. Still deciding between the the Yukon XL or the Suburban.
  • drb2002drb2002 Posts: 72
    Inflating while getting out of the vehicle? Probably not... Just how long does it take for you to get out :)

  • vixvix Posts: 4
  • For the dealers where I checked BBB, there was a good correlation between my experience and their BBB rating - ie., the ones that tended to be less straight forward in the way they described their pricing had worse BBB ratings, ie., problems with other customers for whatever reasons. It doesn't mean you don't deal with them, just be prepared. "Good" is a bit subjective...
  • ssmilesssmiles Posts: 35
    To recap,

    I ordered my 2001 Z71 Burb (White) on March 1st. Dealer contacted me on April 12th to advise it had been built (Silao, Mexico) and shipped to Starcraft Vans Plant in Elkhart, Indiana for final Z71 cosmetic work. It was then railed to California, with eta of April 24th. It arrived one day early, the 23rd. It sat in the rail yard in San Bernardino for several days and was finally trucked to dealer on April 30th. I picked it up on May 1st. Still breaking it in, about 300 miles on it. She runs like a charm and no problems yet....
  • jhogue2jhogue2 Posts: 3
    Does anyone have experience I/ what it takes to remove a door dig? We parked our brand new Pewter YXL in the last parking space at the end of a parking lot and some low life in a brand new Pewter Tahoe whacked our side door. The clearcoat and paint were not scratched too bad but there is a very good "dig" in the metal. A crease about 1" long. The moron in the Tahoe did not even bother to move to a different spot. You could see the paint chip on the edge of the door.

  • gpvsgpvs Posts: 214
    There are some companies that do ding removals by pushing out the dings. My Disco suffered hail damage a few years ago and the hood just looks like the surface of a golf ball and it took them one day to fix that plus some minor dings removed. You couldn't tell that the hood was ever damaged. No painting was involved.
  • cgcole2cgcole2 Posts: 2
    Sorry if this is a repetitive topic. I've priced both cars (AL ST $300 higher than Bur CT) and need to decide by tomorrow due to low inventory on the features I want. It seems to me there is very little if any difference between the two trucks. The AL has nicer leather but is there anything else differentiating the two? The salesman was trying to tell me the AL is better at reducing sound and a friend thought that the AL was a fighter drive. Any feedback is appreciated.
  • cgcole2cgcole2 Posts: 2
    I'm not sure what happened with the spell check function in the message above, but the 2 cars I was comparing are the Yukon XL SLT and the Suburban LT.
  • moss6moss6 Posts: 12
    Having driven the vehicle for substantial miles with and without correct calibration and detecting no problems with the braking under normal circumstances I would say that there is no effect. But after making that statement I wish I had simulated a panic stop situation so as to be able to properly comment on any percieved difference.
    I may make a few panic stops with and without the proper programming and report the results.
  • balserbalser Posts: 90
    A local tire dealer told me a couple of years ago that you can go above the factory rolling diameter by 5% without affecting the ABS. I don't know if this is still true. I checked again at my local Chevy dealer and he swears up and down the Tech 2 will re program the ABS on our '00. He said that 285/75 16s would be no problem - I've asked him on two separate visits and got the same answer. Even told him I heard you needed a code from GM - he said no. I'm going to have him try before I swap out the tires, just to make sure. I really don't care about the speedo - I can compensate for that. When the radar detector goes off, I go 5 under anyway.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Same story i was fed 3 times. Foreman said oh yea we can reprogram. Took a day off work took it in charged me $20 to find out they couldnt do it.

    They do need a code from tech assistance. They have to give them the vin to get the code.
  • btenbten Posts: 28

    Looks like I have about 9 more days to wait. Btw, I ordered mine on Feb. 27th.
  • Been away from this chat room for a loooooooong time...I have a loaded 2000 Sub LT that we have customized pretty well...18x9 AXIS rims, P285/60/R18 Bridgestone Duelers, Video Monitors in headrests, VCP under seat, custom paint, blah blah blah...

    1. We had accumulated 3 dings (actually 2 dings and 1 crease) up high on the drivers side rear 1/4 panel. No other marks on the truck made the three tightly bunched marks a mystery. I live in NY and we have a friend who owns a DentX. They do paintless dent and ding removal. He came over and within 15 minutes he got all the damage removed! He went in through the wheel well. For door dings he takes off the panel and works it that way from the inside. I watched and he used tools like a locksmith. Long rods, etc. The truck is perfect. No way you can tell and I am PICKY! Anyway, the going rate is anywhere from $75 to $150 per panel. He really took 15 minutes. Unreal!

    2. I thought my wife kept inflating the lumbar supports, but she swears she isn't. She drives the Sub 75% so I always thought she was making herself comfortable. When I asked she looked at my with that 'what lumbar support' look that only your wife can give you. How is it possible that these things inflate themselves.

  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Sorry it took so long to get back to you, have been out of town. Dealer is full of it the Tech 2 is a HAND HELD unit, it is all self contained. It gets its power through the ALDL connector under the dash, and is NOT connected to a big computer. It is only about 10" tall, and 6" wide, and about 1.5" thick. Extremly portable! Don't think the dealer knows jack about what he is talking about. If I can sneak my camera into the plant I will get a picture and post it. Very strickt on camers, not sure how the guy got the Tech 2 out, but...
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    The GM cd changers are made by Pioneer, and I have had 2 Pioneer changers and have been very happy with both. Dealer prices are high, but if you want to run the changer through the radio head unit, and have OnStar, the GM changer is the only one that will work with OnStar. There is a company that makes a "protocol converter" that changes GM talk into Kenwood talk, and it messes up the OnStar, I tried it. Luckily I had a guy at work that bought the setup from me for his truck. A "wye" adapter will be needed if you want to keep the tape deck. Otherwise any aftermarket CD changer will work if you want to use an FM modulator, and have the extra control laying around.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I am not sure if it adjusted any of the trans mission stuff. It shifts at the same speeds as before. The guy at work said it sets the whole system up for the larger tire size. The Tech 2 has every tire size in there from 16" rim size up to 19" rim size and ALL tire sizes. It is for the guys that jack their trucks up and put the big monster truck tires on them. If the guy you know cant get into it to program 17" tires in it he either doesn't know what he is doing or needs to try and trick the tool into thinking it is on a Denali.
  • cody17cody17 Posts: 11
    The Pioneer brand changer is the same as the Delco changer (which Pioneer makes) and is more reasonably priced. I have had both, a Delco and a Pioneer 12 disc changer. They are identical except for the name plate. The Pioneer works with all the existing radio controls on the Yukon. It's great.
  • don4341don4341 Posts: 69
    A friend at work has just received his five volume set of the 2001 Service Manual ( GMT01CK8 )
    I had a chance to look at it today, Other gents on this net have complained about the same problem.
    I found that there are two motors for the Lumbar and Bolster adjustments in both pick-ups and the Utilities.
    Under the drivers seat is a 7 pin Wiring Connector. The color code on the connector C-305 is:
    A = Orange
    B = Tan
    C = Black
    D = No Wire
    E = Pink
    F = Dark Blue
    G = Purple

    There is a small push to release tang that is part of the connector which must be depressed before the connector will come apart.
    Pulling this connector will disable both motors. Is this what you want to do?
    I will investigate more at work tomorrow. There doesn`t seem to be a lead going to the body control module but I didn`t have access to the five books for very long today. ( Don`s set should arrive in about a week. )
    If you want to wait for a day or two for a better research project I plan to do that.
    In case you simply pull this connector apart right away PLEASE advise:
    1. Are the connector color codes and order of placement correct.
    2. Did pulling the connector apart give you a message on the vehicles message center?

    Irv. ( Filling in for Don.)
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    I know I am not going crazy, however I'm sure my left leg is activating the lumbar/bolster switch momentarily as I swing my leg across the seat to exit. I would be interested in someone else checking to see if they also inadvertently activate the lumbar/bolster controls as their leg compresses the seat cushion and then briefly makes contact with the switch. It doesn't happen everytime and it activates the switch for varying amounts of time affecting the amount of change in the position of the lumbar and bolsters.

    Definitely a poor design if someone else can confirm a similar experience.

    don4341: do the manuals show if the lumbar/bolster switch on the side of the seat can be rotated 180 degrees so that when the upper part of the switch is inadvertently activated, if it is already fully "deflated", it will have no effect?
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    I have a 2001 3/4 Suburban, 6.0 with 4.10 rear end. Hoping to improve my mileage, (7 MPG City, 8.4 Towing boat @ 8000 LBS, and 14.5 Hi way) I decided to up grade my Gravestone 245 75 16's to Michelin 265 75 16. I traded at the Dealership, $25. trade-in per tire, and asked them to make sure that they re programed the computer for the tire size change. They said they did. I drove back home, 350 miles and checked my speed with a hand held GPS, and I was about 3 MPH faster than the Speedometer showed at 68. (Indicated speed 68, actual speed 71.) Today I took it to the local dealer, who said they had the Tech 2, to have it checked and set again. I picked up the truck and checked again and nothing had changed. When I went back to the Dealership, they said they didn't do anything, because it was already set for 265's. The difference I am experiencing is the same difference error that a couputerized chart says I would get (3 MPH slow indication at 68MPH on the speedometer) They said that the computer could not be set for anything bigger than 265's. (I was going to have it set for 275's to see if this would compensate for the slow speedometer. What can I do now. The overdrive will not engage until the speedometer is doing 55, in the Tow/Haul position. Now I have to get it up to the actual speed of 57.5 to go into overdrive. Also, towing an 8000 LBS boat before the tire upgrade, my truck would stay in overdrive even over overpasses. With the larger tires, it is now hard to keep in overdrive on any incline. I can nurse the throttle and go over some, but it does slow. I am really surprised that this would have that much effect, as the chart says that my ratio only changed from 4.10 to 3.93. Any comments appreciated! Skipjack 2
  • ciaciuchciaciuch Posts: 1
    Can anyone help me with trying to figure out what the difference is between the Surburban and the Yukon XL. I live in southern CA and I currently have a '99 GMC Surburban. Turning it back in under our lemon laws here and I still want a new one but cannot decide what the difference is between the two. My other concern is why the GMC is almost $9,000 more then the chevy surburban. In reading the spec's from edmunds they are identical in size and weight etc.

    Thanks to anyone who can help....
  • gpvsgpvs Posts: 214
    GMC changed the name to Yukon recently. The price difference is more of options and stuff that's standard on Yukon, i think and you have to pick it yourself in the Suburban. Anybody, correct me if i'm wrong. I'm also deciding which ones to get.
  • blueburbblueburb Posts: 3

    Here is a link to that has some good info on this subject.


  • rhanson3rhanson3 Posts: 69
    I upgraded my factory stereo amp in my Yukon XL and now all I get is a blinking RED light on my on-star button. I called the GMC service manager but they has no information on what makes on-star tick within the truck. I am still able to reach on-star but they said they can'r register me until my light is green I talked to a different local stereo shop and he thought the factory amp. had to be in the truck for on-star to work. Thanks for any help you might have.
  • balserbalser Posts: 90
    Great find - very helpful! Thanks
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Yea the tech 2 is a handheld unit but to get the programs you need for your vehicle they plug the tech 2 into a computer and download the program from a gm site into the tech 2. Then unhook the tech 2 from the computer and hook the tech 2 into your truck and download info it got from the computer. I seen this first upclose. I was in the service bay when they were programing an update for the trans into my truck

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