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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • khopekhope Posts: 1
    My 2000 Suburban LT has an odd noise that happens when you turn the wheel to the left "semi-sharply",like when I pull into garage. It sounds like a loud bang on a base drum. I was in the passenger seat recently and felt it on the floorboard.Anybody else experiencing this situation?
  • rtomaniortomanio Posts: 2
    Tawoe: I would appreciate any further info you can give me on how you succeeded with this. The dealer has already admitted this is a known problem. I am not going to mess around with this. I want them to make me whole again and I will buy the 3/4 ton Yukon L. I wanted to do that to begin with, but the sales person talked me out of it because he said it was "unnecessary" due to the size of the camper!!! The immediate questions are how much did you lose (if any) sales tax, depreciation, etc and should we get an attorney. We only have 6,000 miles on the truck. We live in the state of Georgia.
  • billt22billt22 Posts: 1
    The lease on my 1999 Chevy Suburban LS expires in a few weeks and I am thinking about buying it...29,500 miles and in good shape. Only options, after market running boards and trailer hitch. The lease end residual value is $23,834 although finance company, Chase Finance, has agreed to sell it to me for $21,000. I see 1999 LT's with similar miles listed(before negotiating) for $23 -25K. Edmunds and kelly blue book list 1999 LS for $25K retail,$23K private party sale. Does $21K for an LS seem high...I've gone back to Chase twice and they say this is the best they will do. Thanks.
  • kduttonkdutton Posts: 2
    Looks like a great deal to me. I bought a 4WD LT 99 in January with 14,250 miles on it -- has all options -- and paid $25,400. Best I could find on used car web sites were prices around $30,000 to $32,000. Burbs/Expeditions for similar price had 55,000+ miles on them.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    GM to Use More Efficient Engines

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • kduttonkdutton Posts: 2
    Anyone know the maximum weight I can hang on my 1999 Suburban rear doors? I want to use a 3-bike rack, but don't know if it's safe or not.
  • subliminalsubliminal Posts: 29
    I believe there is a TSB out for the klunk which involves changing the tranny fluid and filters. Have your dealer check it out.

    Subliminal
  • rickhessrickhess Posts: 18
    I have a 2001 2500, 8.1 Liter, 4.10 rear, 4WD with 3500 miles. I traded a 2000 1500, 5.3 Liter, 4.10 rear, 4WD in January to have more towing power. I have noticed some peculiarities with the 8.1 Liter that were not present with the 5.3 Liter. I do not know if these are problems or just characteristics of the different and heavier drive train. I have asked the service department at my dealer about these things, and their response is that a light will come on if there is anything wrong with my vehicle. I would appreciate any comments from other 8.1 liter owners, or anyone generally in the know. This is the most expensive thing that I have ever purchased (next to my house), so I am overly protective, at least for now.

    1. On a cold start there is some soft lifter noise for the first minute or so. It is not a pronounced tap (like I have heard on some older vehicles) but more of a muffled noise. It subsides and is completely gone in a minute or so. Is this normal?

    2. Occasionally, the vehicle seems to hesitate for a split second before moving forward or resuming acceleration. This happens on pulling away from a dead stop in 1st gear, and occasionally during an upshift from a higher gear. It happens somewhat infrequently and is fairly subtle. It seems more like a transmission hesitation than an engine hesitation. I cannot tie it to any event or specific set of conditions. Does anyone know what this could be?

    3. Occasionally, the engine sounds rougher or throatier than normal when under load during acceleration. When this happens, it sounds like you can hear all eight cylinders (like you might expect from an older car). Normally, the engine is loud but smoother sounding. It seems like this happens when the ambient temperature is higher. When the engine sounds this way, it seems like I might also have slightly less power.

    4. I am burning some oil. I dropped three-fourths of a quart in 3000 miles. I assume this is still in the normal range. I have a 95 Nissan Maxima that I never put a drop of oil in, so I guess I am spoiled.

    All comments are welcomed.

    Rick
  • whatever7whatever7 Posts: 19
    My answers to your questions are below. I have a 2001 Suburban with the 8.1 Liter with 6500 miles on it.

    1. On a cold start there is some soft lifter noise for the first minute or so. It is not a pronounced tap (like I have heard on some alder vehicles) but more of a muffled noise. It subsides and is completely gone in a minute or so. Is this normal?

    I do not know if this is normal but I to have some lifter noise when I do a cold start. It goes away in a few minutes and I am not that concerned because I was given a 75,000 mile five year warranty due to a oil line failure that occurred the day I brought my Suburban home.

    2. Occasionally, the vehicle seems to hesitate for a split second before moving forward or resuming acceleration. This happens on pulling away from a dead stop in 1st gear, and occasionally during an upshift from a higher gear. It happens somewhat infrequently and is fairly subtle. It seems more like a transmission hesitation than an engine hesitation. I cannot tie it to any event or specific set of conditions. Does anyone know what this could be?

    I have not experienced any hesitation under any conditions. One thing that I can honestly say about this engine is that it impressive acceleration and torque from idle to 4500 RPM's.

    3. Occasionally, the engine sounds rougher or throatier than normal when under load during acceleration. When this happens, it sounds like you can hear all eight cylinders (like you might expect from an older car). Normally, the engine is loud but soother sounding. It seems like this happens when the ambient temperature is higher. When the engine sounds this way, it seems like I might also have slightly less power.

    I have not experienced this problem either.

    4. I am burning some oil. I dropped three-fourths of a quart in 3000 miles. I assume this is still in the normal range. I have a 95 Nissan Maxima that I never put a drop of oil in, so I guess I am spoiled.

    I have never had to add oil. I get my oil changed by the dealer (thanks to a free 3 YR 36,000 mile maintenance plan for the same problem mentioned above) every 3000 miles.

    I would have your engine checked for the acceleration issue and the excessive noise under a load. This does not seem normal
  • eversonseversons Posts: 38
    1. Cold start clatter: I have this, I am not too alarmed by it.

    2. Split second hesitation: I have experienced this a couple of times. My foot is off the brake, I give the car a little gas, the engine speed increases but I go nowhere for about a second. Kind of like the car is on rollers but the tires aren't moving. I was on dry level surfaces with a warm vehicle. My guess would be the computer that controls the transmission is on holiday for a second or two and needs an update from GM.

    3. Throaty sound: Don't know if I've heard that.

    4. Oil consumption: 2 quarts added first 4000 miles. None next 4000 miles.
  • don4341don4341 Posts: 69
    The 2001 Service manual has very little on this device. Operation/description is covered on pages 8-998 through 8-1002. The manufacturer can be contacted at 800-355-3515. The write up advises that the Valet Switch feeds power to the GDO.
    ( Garage Door Opener )
    Have you tried using the GDO in both positions of the Valet Switch?
    The removal of the short overhead console is described on page 8-1436. Only one screw holds the unit in place. It is located in the forward end of the console.
    You can not find the term valet switch in the index of volume 5 of the service manual. There is not one wiring diagram which lists Home link transmitter as a wired item nor does one connector show a lead identified as a Home Link Transmitter Lead.
    Not sure but I think this item is powered through the INT PRK fuse which is rated at 10 amp. If this fuse was blown you would lose several small light circuits. A connector may have come apart inside the overhead short console. Again only one screw supports this device - other end is held in place by two small tabs which plug in to the headliner. Please advise of the wire colors IF you drop the console to check for a lose connector or broken wire.
    Good Luck Don.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Why not just get either a roof top bike rack, but that may be to tall to get into some fast food drive thrus. Other alternative would be a hitch mounted carrier, if you are not towing at the time you are hauling bikes around it is a great set up. I had one on my old van and it had a tilt down feature that let me get into the back doors without removing the rack. I am not sure about weight limits on the doors, if you are going to use strap on type carrier, or plan on mounting it directly to the doors.
  • babyangelsbabyangels Posts: 32
    Hi there...

    We have located a 2000 Yukon XL SLT that we are interested in buying just across the border in Canada. It is being sold at a GMC dealer who originally sold the vehicle as new to the one owner. ( He traded it in on a motorhome)
    It has all we've been looking for... quad buckets, liftgate, 1/2 ton... except the sunroof! Has anyone added an aftermarket sunroof on the Yukon XL? Cost ideas/problems, etc...?
    Also, has anyone done any buying across the border? This dealer doesn't usually change the odometer over unless he's dealing with another dealer... All the dealers around me locally say to be sure and have it changed...???
    The price is better than we could buy it for here... and we can't seem to find the quad buckets in the color we're looking for. This one is pewter which isn't my favorite... but it's alright. We'd rather have the maroon, navy, or green with the pewter underneath.

    Anyway... any ideas in how to proceed with these issues would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks!
  • elmgroveelmgrove Posts: 4
    Hi everyone,
    It's been a while since I have posted. With 2 small kids forgive me if this has been covered before. We are looking for a tv/vcr that others would recommend. I am tempted to buy a 9 inch tv/vcr ac/dc model and put it between the rear seats on our 2000 xl. Does anyone know if and or how I could hook this up to the rear audio controls? Thanks, Carl
  • fnulnu40fnulnu40 Posts: 2
    My lease on my 1/2 ton 99 suburban expires soon. I am considering 3/4 to with a 6000 or 8100 engine, but can find no info on mileage. Can anybody with those engines write back please. thanks in advance.
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    I have 2500 4 WD 6.0 4.10 rear, with 4700 miles. I put in a quart of oil at 3000 miles, and have about 1000 miles on oil change and when last checked, it was a full. Never added oil before with GM 350's between oil changes.

    I feel some hesitation when I first start to move off, but to me it feels like the engine/trans. is haveing a hard time getting the weight moving. I notice this pulling my boat out at the ramp. Once moving, it feels like a D8 Cat.

    Gas mileage: 6 or 7 around town, short trips, 7.7 pulling 8000 LB boat and trailer, flat land, 225 mile trip. Hiway, 12-13.5. (Very disappoint-ing.)

    If I was buying a new 2500, I would not accept Firestone tires. I only got $25 per tire, trading up to Michelins 245/75 to 265/75 at over $800 for the Michelins. Most flustraing to me, two GM dealers have been unable to use the "Tech 2" to correct the 4% error on the speedometer with the increased tire size. The problem caused is that in Tow/Haul, the truck will not go into overdrive until it reads 55 on the speedometer. That means that I have to drive almost 58 MPH to get into overdrive. Sometimes a problem on tow lane traveled roads. Also, I never expected the lost of power and the effect of keeping it in overdrive with the new tires, only 1.3 inches larger in diamiter. Before, it stayed on overdrive over interstate overpasses, and now jumps out on small grades. I choose the 6.0 engine, thinking I would get better gas mileage than the 8.1. I hate to think the 8.1 would be worst.

    Otherwise, very nice truck to drive (with autoride feature) and no problems so far. At over $60 per tank full, mileage is costly. MY .02
    Skipjack 2
  • warzonectxwarzonectx Posts: 26
    how fast do the 1998 Chevrolet Suburban go. can the Chevrolet Suburban go 120 if you have som info post it or email me. my email is [email protected]
  • rickhessrickhess Posts: 18
    Skipjack 2:

    Thanks for the experience information. You characterized the hesitation problem much better than I did. It seems like the drive train is trying to overcome some type of inertia. I have already found myself checking the emergency brake to make sure it is not on. I didn't have this problem on my 1500, so it must be specific to the 2500 transmission.

    I've only checked towing mileage with a 6630 lb (dry weight) travel trailer in tow, and it wasn't a precision check. On flat highway it was a little under 9 mpg. I do not think my 5.3 L. 1500 did much better. For highway travel I can cruise in 4th/OD at 65 mph and 2000 rpm almost all of the time with the 8.1L. I couldn't tow in 4th at all with the 5.3 L., so the engine was always running at 3000 rpm while cruising. I assume there is a tradeoff between engine speed and displacement when it comes to mileage.

    Rick
  • mnbuckymnbucky Posts: 16
    We bought a 13" TV/DVD from Sam's Club at Christmas. It fits nice and snug between the front seatbacks while sitting on the center console. We use one of those portable stereo adapters that connects to the headphone jack on the TV and plays through the cassette player so our movies can be played through the Suburban's speaker system. The only requirement (because it is AC powered) is that I had to wire a power inverter. This TV has a high enough initial load that small inverters (that plug into cigarette lighter) would trip. Believe me, I must have tried them all. So we now have an inverter under the center seat that's wired to the battery up front. The 13" screen is great. And for $400 (including the power inverter), it is probably our most cost-effective addition to the truck.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    My '01 2500 Suburban LT, 6.0 Liter, 3.73 rear got 9.9 mph first tank (all city), 2nd tank 14.89 (all highway, wide open, no trailer), third tank 14.5 mixed mostly highway. I did not buy this vehicle for it's gas mileage. Just keep telling yourself this as you fill up. Good luck
  • buster27buster27 Posts: 28
    To rickhess:
    I have written about the cold start problems with the 8.1 on this forum before. I have about 3500 miles on my 2500 Suburban, and it still continues to clatter on start up. Very disturbing noise coming from a new vehicle that cost $43000. The dealer has no clue. Just says that the lighter weight piston is the culprit. They have been trying to get some help from GM technical assistance with no success. They say it is not doing any damage and does not effect engine performance or longevity. RIGHT! Might have to pursue getting an extension on the warranty like whatever7.
    Did have to add about 3/4 qt. of oil in first 2000 miles, but after first oil change at 3000 miles, have not had to add any.
    Have not had any transmission hesitation problems. Did have a problem with a thunk coming from the drive line when coming to a stop. Lubing the spline with silicone lubricant helped this problem.
    Mileage has been what I consider very good. Have been getting around 11.5 to 12 mpg around town and driving to work. About 14.5 interstate driving. About 9 mpg when towing 35' travel trailer. As good as my 96 with 454. I have the 3.73 rear end.
    Power is great and don't have a problem with excessive noise that I've noticed.
    Let us all know if your dealer has a fix for the cold start clatter problem.
    Thanks.
  • speedy2114speedy2114 Posts: 1
    I have owned a 95 MC, 5.7, Z71 pickup but need to move into a Suburban.
    We have a house in the mountains of Northern Arizona so we do a lot of mountain driving. My 95 is fine except for the non-Vortec, 60mph ax on some grades - I hate to be passed by new Fords!
    I don't buy new cars so I am looking at 2000, 1999 (old style) and 98 Suburbans.
    Would welcome input on pluses and minuses of old as new style. Also, are the 2001's improved enough to justify waiting for them to show up in the used market?
    Thanks
  • wkohlerwkohler Posts: 74
    I have owned all 3 model year suburbans. The 99 had much more power than the 95 (about 35 more horsepower). The 2001 engine, even though less litres (5.3 vs 5.7) , but rated at 285 hp, so far seems far superior to the 99. If I were you, I'd wait for the 2001 model to show up on the used car market. No real difference between 00 and 01, just most of the "bugs" have been worked out of the newer design. I paid pretty close attention to this site during the 2000 model year. Had lots of problems with windows not going up and down, water leaks, seat/seat back problems, resonance when driving, etc. Would stay away from the 2000 model year. I own a 2001, built in December of 2000. Have about 1500 miles on, and so far, no problems. The 2001 is far superior in ride, handling, and braking to the 1999. Only draw back is that the 2001 seems somewhat smaller outside and inside than the 1999. I especially miss the extra room in the 99, especially the rear cargo area behind the 3rd seat. Plus, I preferred the extra fuel capacity of the 99. 42 gallons vs the 32.5 gallons on the 01.
  • ssmilesssmiles Posts: 35
    I opted for a built in "Visteon" TV system. It has a single 7" flip down screen (mounted where the rear a/c contols are) and features VHS & DVD. I am impressed by the picture quality and how well you can see it even from the far back row. The VHS is mounted on the headliner at the rear of my 2001 Suburban Z71, while the DVD is mounted underneath the left seat of the second row. System is conrolled by wireless remote. It also features 4 headphones allowing me to listen to the stereo while the 3 kids watch Disney movies. You can also push a button which switches the audio to the vehicles's 9 speaker system. Of course I had to spend about $1800 for this, but it sure is nice.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    If memory serves me, in '96 GM started putting speed limiter on all GM cars. The Vette, Camaro, Firebird, and any cop model vehicle all had 120 limits, the rest got 98 MPH limits. I don't know what top speed is, but you can get a power programmer to defeat this limiter and find out. I have a 2001 YXL with a 6.0 and it has plenty left in it when the limiter kicks in!
  • elmgroveelmgrove Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info. ssmile's that sounds really nice, too bad I can't justify spending that kind of money. Mnbucky, How do you keep the tv on the console? I'm thinking about a 9 inch tv/vcr combo that has a lighter plug. So the width will be a little smaller. I like the thought of putting it on the console, but I wonder about a sudden stop. Will it go flying or do you have it strapped down? I guess I'm leaning this way just for the fact that it has a dual purpose, in the truck and in the camper. I thought of setting it between the seats and making some sort of a base so it would be angled up. Putting it on the console wouldn't be too bad as long as its secured I think. We plan on only using it for longer drives and trips.

    The other one I was thinking about was the one that replaces you console cover and swivels. Has anyone seen this one?

    Thanks, Carl
  • mnbuckymnbucky Posts: 16
    We chose the 13" TV/DVD for several reasons. 1) I wanted stereo so that movies would sound better played through the truck speaker system. The smaller units were mono. 2) It fits so snugly between the seatbacks so that we don't have to strap it down. It never slides during braking or acceleration. I'm sure that in a crash it would go through the windshield -- but at that point, the TV would be the least of my worries. 3) The larger screen is much better. 4) Came with a remote control 5) We have it in the truck only on longer drives. At 13", it's adequate for use in the kitchen/bedrooms.
  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Posts: 262
    Have you stopped over at DMC Vans in Butler at 126th & Silver Spring,they may be able to tell you the advantages & disadvantages. The flying TV in crash would be fine if it went flying thru the windsheild, but 9 out of 10 times it would become a flying missile and stay in the vehicle, taking out anything in it's way including kids........I would think you would want that secured somewhat.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    GMC Yukon XL 4x2

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Yes - It's the rear end collisions that would be the most damaging to people in the second or third seats - not worth the risk in my opinion.

    Ken
  • chuckee98chuckee98 Posts: 39
    The thought of a 13" tv flying around the inside scares the hell out of me. I wanted to go to a custom install, but can't afford one yet. So I went the route of a portable DVD player. I just purchased a Panasonic DVD-LV75 with a 7" screen for $ 699.00. You can get other models for less money, but I liked the Panasonic the best. I also bought a CaseLogic portable DVD player case. What I do is bungee the case around the lid of the console, with the DVD player strapped into the case. No more projectile. It also allows me to upgrade into the custom install in the future with a portability option because it has audio and video outputs. For sound through the speakers, you can go with adapters from the unit into the cassette player, or FM modulators.
  • btenbten Posts: 28
    Got my Z71 today! Placed the order with the dealer on Feb. 27th. Came just the way I wanted it except for rear seat audio controls. I found out they are not available if you do not order the cassette. I have the Pewter with charcoal/gray interior. It is a NICE vehicle.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I found another big plus for the Lift gate today. I went out stocking up for the long weekend festivities, and it was pouring rain when I got done. Went out to load up the YXL, and the lift gate became a roof over my head while I loaded the truck. Try to get a set of barn doors to do that!
  • circutmanncircutmann Posts: 40
    While I have not personally heard any noise on my 2001 YXL 1/2 ton 5.3L, I think I may know what you are hearing. While changing the oil, filter, & doing a grease job on mine last nite, I found that the "idler arm" knuckle & grease fitting on the steering linkage on mine, hits, catches, & drags across the transmission cooler lines when turning to the left. The lines run along the floorboard on the passenger side. It seems only to do this when turning fairly tight such as into a garage, or parking spot as you describe. There is considerable wear on one cooling line on mine at only 7500 miles. I plan to call & take mine into the dealer next week. This has the potential to cause a transmission fluid leak, transmission damage, & possibly a fire if fluid were to spray onto a hot exhaust manifold or catalyst. This appears to be poor routing of the cooler lines. Mine does not appear to be missing any hangers, so I suspect this may be common to all 1/2 ton YXL's & Sub's. I would have yours checked out soon, for this condition. If this is a common problem, it could result in a campaign or recall. I am curious if others have this condition, & if it is a problem on the 3/4 ton YXL w/ the heavier transmission. Mine was built in Mexico on 10/04/00. Let me know if this condition exists on your vehicle. Good Luck, .... Dave
  • I'm compiling a list of owners and/or operators of GMC/Chevy Suburban's that came equipped from the factory with Michelin XW4 tires and experienced rapid or excessive tire wear. If you are one of these effect owner/operators I would like to hear from you. If you know of somebody this has effected pass this message along. My tires wore out under normal urban use @ 21500 miles. The tire was not properly spec. out for the vehical.Orginally this tire was designed for passenger cars, not light trucks. Nobody at GMC or Michelin what's to take ownership of this problem, but it's more like a GMC problem than anybodies.

    Please contract me @ [email protected] with any information.

    Thanks
    Mase
  • cat1iacat1ia Posts: 16
    Can anyone info me on the RPM's of the 5.3L VS 6.0L @65MPH? I would like to know what the differneces are for the engines.
  • Hi All, I ordered my 2001 2500 4x4 YukonXL SLE with the 8.1 engine last Sept.,because of constraints and limited supplies our order finally went through in April and just picked it up on Thursday. It had all options that we ordered except the roof lights.(they even threw in the cassette which we did not have to pay for) Our dealer is going to install the roof lights since we really want them. What I want to know has anyone had these installed without any problems??
    Also I just want to say that this is a awesome truck, awesome pickup, I can't wait till I'm over my break-in period so I can really test it's power.

    Jerry
  • ssmilesssmiles Posts: 35
    Congrats on arrival of your rig. We have had ours for just shy of a month now. Took it on it's first road trip last weekend up to Santa Barbara. With a full load and crew on board, we made 16 mpg. We also flipped 1,000 miles on the odo with not a single problem to date.
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    as I mentioned in msg # 1187.. my dealer gave me a 'heads-up' about this program.. see attached pic of the Info packet I received from GMAC today... there's a phone # at the bottom to contact GM for further info...


    having just leased a '01 'bourbon LT 4wd for my wife last month using the Loyalty rebate.. my old 'fishin' truck, my '99 'bourbon LT 4wd with 44K miles on it and with about 9+ months left on my lease may be going bye-bye also.. found out I can use that $1K Loyalty Rebate as many times as you want..so maybe another new 'bourbon??.. who knows.. something to think about..

    Steve..Host.. If this pic is not permitted on this board, you can access it via this link at http://greengrouper.com/ggserver/ChevyLeaseend.jpg


    image

  • rdtaylorrdtaylor Posts: 21
    1. On a cold start there is some soft lifter noise for the first minute or so. It is not a pronounced tap (like I have heard on some older vehicles) but more of a muffled noise. It subsides and is completely gone in a minute or so. Is this normal?

    I too hear a bit of noise when the engine
    is cold - not alarming to me.

    2. Occasionally, the vehicle seems to hesitate for a split second before moving forward or resuming acceleration. This happens on pulling away from a dead stop in 1st gear, and occasionally during an upshift from a higher gear. It happens somewhat infrequently and is fairly subtle. It seems more like a transmission hesitation than an engine hesitation. I cannot tie it to any event or specific set of conditions. Does anyone know what this could be?

    I never notice it from a dead stop, but in
    certain environmental conditions, I notice a
    lag under full-throttle acceleration on the
    shift at ~50-60mph. It seems to happen only
    when the transmission and engine are cold. I
    think that this is the torque management
    electronics limiting torque (because the
    transmission can't handle the full 8.1L
    torque in some cases). All GM trucks cut
    the torque during shifts, but it seems more
    abrupt with the cold 8.1L. I think it is
    probably normal, although they should be
    able to make it better with a software
    change (I consider it a software bug).

    3. Occasionally, the engine sounds rougher or throatier than normal when under load during acceleration. When this happens, it sounds like you can hear all eight cylinders (like you might expect from an older car). Normally, the engine is loud but smoother sounding. It seems like this happens when the ambient temperature is higher. When the engine sounds this way, it seems like I might also have slightly less power.

    This is the viscous cooling fan engaging when
    the engine compartment is overheating.
    Perfectly normal and expected for the large
    engine on hot days. It is amazing how much
    power the fan robs - there is a very noticeable
    power loss.

    4. I am burning some oil. I dropped three-fourths of a quart in 3000 miles. I assume this is still in the normal range. I have a 95 Nissan Maxima that I never put a drop of oil in, so I guess I am spoiled.

    Mine isn't using much oil - unlike my previous
    5.7L that drank it pretty quick. Probably just
    luck of the draw. I think GM considers it
    within spec for 1qt/3000 miles.
  • jamesk4jamesk4 Posts: 55
    Has anyone experienced brake fade or brakes that do not seem to want to stop during a semi-panic stop, as when the light turns yellow and you have to get on the brakes hard to stop? My YXL does not show any greater stopping power reqardless of how hard you press on the brakes. Today, under the above condition, I went over rough payment half way through stopping, when the anti-lock kicked in and let off on the brakes, allowing me to add about 30 feet to my stopping distance. If there had been a vehicle in front of me, I would have bought the farm.

    I believe the front pads have not "set" yet, has anyone else with this experence? Your comments would be appreciated.
  • lambdapro1lambdapro1 Posts: 5
    I had special ordered a Suburban for $26800. It was a pretty good deal. But yesterday, thanks to the gas price scare and dealers with lots of Suburbans on their lots, I bought a Lt. Pewter Suburban with tan interior for $22998 from Friendly Chevrolet in Dallas. It had A/C, cruise, tinted windows, rear defogger, roof rack, seats 9. Spec'ed to tow 7800 pounds with GVWR 7000 pounds. I'm getting the external transmission cooler and rear receiver/wiring added as DIO. There was one that seated six and did not have the roof rack in Fort Worth at Moritz Chevrolet for $21998. Thank you, gas prices!
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    Has anyone figured out how to step on to the 2001 running boards, without slipping or missing them all together? I am stepping out of my 2500 4WD and missing the running board and going to the street. This is a long step that I can make, but I am concerned that I will wear out the edge of the seat, as I did on my Tahoe sliding off the seat. I think the edge is really plastic and only the seat service is leather. Anyhow, when it wears, the surface starts to crack and look like the devil. I can twist my foot if I am conscious of my step down and get it on the running board, but really its to small to reach comfortable. Anyone solve the problem short of replacing the running boards?

    I have tried three times to have my speedometer adjusted to the change in tires from 245's to 265/75/16's. The speedometer has remained, about 4% fast at 70 MPH. Now I'm told that this is normal range of error. Must have really been off with my old tires. Is it possible to get the correct speed reading with the on-board computer. I detailed the problem in an mail to Chev/GM web site. Just got referred to the service line and told to use the phone. So much for the site's request to "tell us about your new Chev"!! Any comments? Skipjack 2
  • tuckpanatuckpana Posts: 20
    Does anyone know of a good dealer in these markets for a Yukon XL. Thanks Tuckpana
  • naitovenaitove Posts: 6
    In looking at window stickers on 2001 Suburbans I have seen the LT option priced at $11710, 11942, 11975, and 12202. The only difference I could see was that the $12202 included Auto Climate Control which I thought was part of the LT group(unless you get a sunroof). Any explanations. Also, I have seen a Dealer Cash Incentive of $750 in the Northeast, expiring on 5/31/01. Anyone know anything about this? The dealer sure says he doesn't know about it. Finally, I have a 92 Suburban which I bought used. Do I still qualify for the $1000 loyalty rebate?
    John Naitove
  • naitovenaitove Posts: 6
    Two more questions. If you've driven a 2001 Autoride Suburban how does it feel over bumpy roads compared to Premium ride? Also, My wife and I drove a Yukon XL (probably with Premium Ride) last month and 2 Suburbans w/ Premium ride yesterday. We both remembered the Yukon XL as having a better ride and more direct (Less center play) in the steering. Are we imagining this?
  • chuckee98chuckee98 Posts: 39
    I haven't experienced it yet, but expect to at some point, based on the postings on the pacific audio forum ( http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance/discussion.html ). Apparently, a lot of people on this forum has experienced this, the majority being p/u owners, but some SUV owners also. Some have filed complaints with GM, but to no avail. Most believe that it is a design flaw, to the extent where some are seriously considering disabling the ABS, since the dealers aren't fixing it, or even admitting there's a problem. I know of at least one person who has literally rolled into the car in front of him at a light. The only thing that I can suggest, is that when it happens, let off the brakes and step on it again (a lot of good that will do in a panic situation, though). Bring it in to the dealer and have them look at it. After they report that it's working as designed, file a complaint as a matter if record, that way if you get into a serious accident, there's a paper trail. Probably not what you want to hear, but it's what I've heard.
  • chuckee98chuckee98 Posts: 39
    I've missed my running boards the first couple of weeks that I had my YXL. Since then, I've learned to deliberately step and catch the running board with the heel of my foot, then pivot, never letting go of the steering wheel until I'm down on the ground. I agree that the boards are too narrow, but since I have them, I'm not going to replace them. The only time I have trouble with this technique is with a specific pair of running shoes where I have very little feeling in the heel area. I haven't tried them with my cowboy boots, yet, either. Also, this may be a little tough for the women when they have heels on.
  • moss6moss6 Posts: 12
    Just arrived home from 1,000 mile trip pulling 7800lb TT with 01 yukon xl 6.0 3.93 final drive. Miles per gal. avg. 6.75 for the trip. Trip was from the flat lands of west Texas to the mountains of northern NM.. in the Taos/Mora area. Many of the grades that the old 97' 350 would pull in 3rd required 1st gear with the 6.0. Another observation about the 6.0 that surprised me was the fact that even though you had to run in 2nd gear in many instances in order to keep up with the traffic flow the 6.0 did not blow up at sustained 5,000rpm intervals. This is not what I expected from a 3/4 ton rated truck but maybe GM designed it to operate at near redline in order to make enough power to pull a load. Just the same, not exactly a relaxing experience. Any input from anyone with similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. I cannot believe that GM would be able to market a truck with a 3/4 ton rating that is far less capable of pulling a load than an older truck with a lighter rating.
  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    I know that it is new, but you should still consider putting in a 4.10 rear end. This will help on the towing. That Yukon XL with the 3.73 and 6.0L is rated 8800 pounds. With the 4.10 it is rated for 9800 pounds.
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