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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • poc322poc322 Posts: 22
    I'm in the process of purchasing a Z71 Tahoe using the GM Supplier Discount. The dealer that i've been working with has let me see what the GMS price is on the models i've been looking for. So since i'm having to locate one i've been able to determine which one i would preffer since the GMS price differs on each vechile because of the varring options. But they should show you the print out which has the GMS price, the Supplier Price, Invoice Price, MSPR, the mark up %. But what i have found is that the price runs anywhere between 700 and 1000 below invoice. In my expereince at least.
  • fcornayfcornay Posts: 6
    Recommend you visit the GMSUV web site at then look under discussion titled "Audio, Video & On Star". Then look under subtitle "Audio System Upgrades". there are currentyly 81 messages. Start with #1 and read through all of them. This should help.
    I modified my audio system and the results were superb. Good luck.
  • Got the pics posted on the web site for easier viewing.


  • Does anyone know of any rebates on 2001 yukon xl's in the Illinois area? Want to sell y 99 and get a new one if there are any rebates!
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    just speaking from what we have on our two '01 Suburban 1500 4x4's..

    my wife's black 'bourbon has P265/70R/16.....My white Z71 has P265/70R/17.. here's a couple of pics of both side by side.. stakeout "Suburban/Tahoe Owners: Photo Gallery" Jun 30, 2001 6:54pm

    you might want to go to a 17" tire like I have on the Z71 if you want to fill the wheel well up a bit more on your 3/4 ton.. but that means new LT265/70R/16 should be the best overall value ..

    my only complaint is that they are still putting the 'P' or Passenger series tires on all 1/2 ton Suburbans.. no option to go to the 'LT' or Light Truck series like they used to have.. I replaced the 'P' series on my old '99 Suburban 1500 4x4 with the same size' LT' series.. I liked them a lot better overall.. wear better too..didn't ruin the ride as some might suggest.. all the 'bourbons deserve the 'LT' series tires..
  • y2kgtsy2kgts Posts: 48
    We were VERY pleased with the set up we chose:

    Audiovox Flexvision 13.3" flip down LCD TV (big!)
    Audiovox Wireless headphones (four of them)
    Pioneer portable DVD player (PDV-10)
    Power converter and inputs for home videogame system (PlayStation 2, etc.)

    I used the company that is the wholesaler to the local dealerships and installs 90% of the aftermarket systems here. The whole thing cost me less than $2,500 and the quality is fantastic. The wildest part was that they installed this gorgeous drop-down display WITH the factory sunroof in place! Didn't even effect the sliding sunshade even though it is mounted a few inches behind the sunroof opening. The TV has a built-in tuner so that we can watch local news/weather wherever we travel. Outside TV antenna is mounted horizontally below OnStar antenna. The Pioneer player is great because it comes with a remote (the kids can change it without fumbling for the player itself). Even better, it is completely removable and comes with the connections for the house as well! Two simple plugs and it goes from a 12 volt DC system to a 110 volt AC system. Gives us DVD capability anywhere we want it, including the hotel rooms. The videogame input is great when the kids want to play a bit. They can use the headphones while we listen to whatever we want on the car's stereo/CD system. We also added a radio frequency tuner for the video so that we can have the audio come across the entire vehicle sound system and not just the headphones. Great when you want to listen to Ralph Wigginton on "The Simpsons" (grin).

    If anybody wants pictures I can shoot some and post them here. Hope this helps!
  • Well with mixed emotions I'm turning in my 1999 suburban. It's LT with every option. I loved the ride of this thing compared to each and every ford SUV I've ever ridden in which includes most of them. Any Expedition/Navigator owner who likes that ride must have grown up riding in bouncy trucks. The suburban ride is that much better it was incredible. The extra room inside was perfect for the family and friends. Lots of room. Huge gas tank was great. I told people I can go 600 miles on a tank of gas. Then I told them it holds 44 gallons and they would laugh. About 14 mpg in city up to 15-16 highway. Now the bad parts. The brakes are the worst brakes I've ever experienced. In three years, 65k miles, I went through at least 6 sets of brake pads. And include in that 2 rotors. Horrible horrible brakes for that reason alone I'm happy to turn it in. Throw in a massive alignment problem too. And throw in 2 serpentine belts. Two. Please give me back the individual belts anyday if I have to go through a serpentine every 30k miles. I think my 30k service was around $600. Expensive to own and operate(it was fine for me I wrote the whole thing off on business lease). I won't be getting another in all likelihood but I hear very significant improvements after my year so they should be fine now. Anyway, my 2 cents ymmv.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Does anyone have a 2500 badge or Z71 badge for sale?
    The 2001 Suburban 2500 doesn't come with the badges on the front doors and I would like to have them. I know that some people have removed badges for ease of waxing, but if you never wax these are not a problem.
    How about the Suburban badge on the rear door or the Z71 badges on the sides? Anyone?
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Your GM dealership's parts department will be happy to order a "2500" , "Z71" or an "Escalade" badge for you if you wish!

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • larrys7larrys7 Posts: 35
    Just finished a couple trips 2,000/900 miles in 01 YDXL - 18.8 average mpg on the interstate & 16.7 in the hills - LOVE IT!!!... Still miss my 97 burb 19-23 mpg & that large fuel tank.
  • balserbalser Posts: 90
    I miss the large fuel tank too. Don't know why the larger fuel capacity on the 2500's isn't at least an option on the 1500 (at least it wasn't when we bought our '00). Miss the switchable third seat light as well..although I haven't checked out the '02's to see if they fixed that yet. Someone posted that I could use the third seat light from a Tahoe, but haven't gotten around to checking that out either.
  • Any ideas on floor mats to cover aisle between 2nd row
    buckets on '01 Yukon XL ?

    No joy checking MacNeill, etc.

    Thanks for the help.

  • Just bought a 2001 1500 LS in Louisiana with leather, towing, flares, running boards, premium ride, cassette. Paid 32,800 after the rebate. Orginal invoice was 33,450 before rebate. I'm wondering whether or not I got a good deal. I set out to get one with leather for under 30, but then my wife got picky with the color (charcoal) and options. I shopped over 8 dealers in and around Baton Rouge. No one would quote me better than $1,000 over invoice after adjusting for the $1500 rebate on a leathered up bourbon. When the guy in Hammond came down to $650 over, I figured this was the best I could do considering I wasn't flexible on color and leather. Just wondering what other people are paying.

    Swamp Cat
  • alfred7alfred7 Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Suburban. This past week I experienced one of the hinges popping apart on the glass portion of the rear lift gate. Anyone else had this experience? Of course, it is under warranty and the dealer has to order the glass to be replaced. While I wait the "burb" sits in the garage can't take it out during this rainy season as there is an opening at the top of the glass. Otherwise this is the first trouble I have had. It is a great vehicle. Far superior to my 1997 Suburban.

  • jamiedcjamiedc Posts: 3
    Does anyone know if or when going to put the duramax and or the allison trans, in the suburban?
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    smaller dmax probably with the 4L80 trans but not the allison. Allison wont fit under the burb
  • My wife experienced complete brake failure with our 2001 Yukon XL. Please take a look at my thread in the SUV forum and reply if you've had this problem too...joe

    [url]joe_jensen "Brake Failures on GM Fullsize SUVs?" Aug 28, 2001 8:13am[/url]
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I remember some of you having the cold air problem on the passenger side during the cold winter months. GM now has a TSB dealing with it, here it is.

    I apologize for the long post, but it is the entire TSB, and is for the people that have"problem" dealers that don't beleive, or want to do the reasearch so they print it up and take it to the dealer as proof.

    Passenger SIde of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Drivers SIde (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl
    Seal) #01-01-37-008

    Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal)

    1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models

    2002 Cadillac Escalade


    Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be:

    1.Colder than the driver's side when the heat mode is on.
    2.Warmer than the driver's side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on.
    3.There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on.


    Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving.


    Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures:

    1.Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode.
    2.Remove the fixed mast radio antenna.
    3.Open the hood and install fender covers.
    4.Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure:
    A.Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle.
    B.Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer.


    Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm.

    C.Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm.
    5.Lower the hood.
    6.Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure:
    A.On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw.
    B.Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin.
    C.Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl.
    D.Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel.
    E.Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out.
    7.Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it.
    8.With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape.
    9.Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover.
    10.Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC
    11.Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems
    only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures.
    12.Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some
    way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure:


    It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas.

    A.Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541).
    B.Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions.
    C.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from
    dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition.
    D.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet
    metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal.
    E.Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor.
    13.Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl.
    14.Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover.
    15.Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place.
    16.Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind.
    17.Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time.
    18.Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base.
    19.Lower but do not close the hood.
    20.Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws. Tighten

    Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (18 lb in).

    21.Raise the hood.
    22.Reinstall the air inlet grille panel center retainer and front edge retaining clips.
    23.Cycle the wipers to ensure the wiper system is in the parked position.


    Inspect the windshield lower edge on each side. About 51-76 mm (2-3 in) from the bottom, you will find a 13 mm (1/2 in) long black mark embedded in the glass. The black line is the position for
    the wiper blade to be in when the wiper system is in the parked position.

    24.Install the wiper arm asse
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    The shocks in my 95 Suburban 1500 are pretty squishy now at 78K and I am wondering what suggestions some may have for replacement. I've done plenty of Sears best gas for RWD cars but no experience with their truck shocks. Am I better off with Monroe or other?

    Smooth ride quality is important - no off roading use here.
    Towing is limited to 2500 lb boat - nothing heavier.


  • Got delivery of 01 YXL end of July. Had problem starting after 300 miles. Stalled on main road. Dealer replaced fuel pump, filter and re programed computer. OK so far. My petite wife complains that the steering is not centered and that she feels like she is sitting sideways to drive. Dealer tried to adjust steering, but did not work. Has anyone experience this? I changed the dome light to the switched reading light, it makes a difference.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    "My petite wife complains that the steering is not centered and that she feels like she is sitting sideways to drive."

    One of the early complaints about the new interior, was the miscentered steering wheel/column. It is not as noticeable in a bench seat as it is in the buckets seats. My petite wife refused to buy the '00 Tahoe because of it and opted for a new '99 instead. There are safety issues, i.e., 4 wheel disk, etc. that in my opinion makes the '00 better, but what the heck we all have our opinions. The '99 has better visibility because of the larger glass area, etc.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Try the Bilsteins. The '99 Tahoe came with them (2WD, LT), and they are the best I have seen or ridden on. About $55 each but well worth it. You can pay $15 each for junk and up to $45 each for good quality, but excellent starts at $55.00. I tried the Monoe VST (Variable Sensity Technology) which were supposed to be Monoe's latest. Junk. I removed them and took them back to Pep Boys for a refund.
  • smwls8smwls8 Posts: 103
    My mother-in-law tried to purchase a Yukon XL last week from a huge Atlanta dealer using the GM employee discount(her father is a GM UAW retiree). The dealership tried to talk the mother-in-law to do the deal WITHOUT using her Father's GM employee discount! Then they told her if she used her father's discount,she MUST finance the Yukon through GMAC and for a term no longer than 48 months! What kind of BS were they trying to pull?

    I have a Ford employee in my family that allows me to make A-plan purchases/leases deals since 1992, I have never ran into a problem like this. At Ford Lincoln/Mercury, if there is ANY factory rebates or special interest rates, you get these ON TOP of the A-plan discount( 2000 Lincoln LS, $500 cash back+0.9%interest on lease on top of A-plan discount)! My wife's grandfather has added my wife to his list of eligible buyers under his discount, but from the experience of my mother-in-law, I may stick with Ford, even though I would prefer to replace my LS with a Denali rather than a Navigator next year.

    Can anyone shed light why the GM employee discount seems to be such a hassle compared to Ford's? My mother-in-law claims you have to "hide" the fact that you are a GM employee discount buyer until after you negotiate a price, than spring for the employee discount. At FoMoCo, you tell the dealer straight up you are A-plan qualified, the dealer pulls up the A-plan price from Ford, and than any applicable incentives are added.

    Any experience with GM employee discount would be greatly appreciated.
  • munchomuncho Posts: 14
    I am trying to figure out how to get a 1/2 ton Suburban with an 8.1 in it. I have put off buying a Sub for a couple years because of lack of engine options in the 1/2 ton. The ride quality between the 1/2 and 3/4 is very different and since its my wife's car during the week and mine on the weekends, it needs both the nice ride and the big engine.

    The car manufacturers are putting smaller and smaller engines in their high volume vehicles for fuel economy reasons. I have read on this board people saying that the Sub is sluggish with 7 passengers in it.

    Has anyone bought a 3/4 ton with the 8.1 and then changed the suspension after-market to make it ride like a 1/2 ton? I wonder if the attachment points for the coil springs are there on the 3/4 ton so that one could take the leafs off and put coils on?

    I would especially be interested in the name and number of a shop that has done the above for someone.
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    I take it you have't been able to get your truck reprogrammed right from your tire size swap yet. Reading through your posts going back to the beginning of May, I gotta tell you this: 1) Your dealer's an idiot. 2) He/she is quite possibly confusing 265/70's with 265/75's. 245/75X16 tires have the same diameter as 265/70X16s which are a stock Sub size. 3) Your unhappiness with the performance on your trip in July (Aug) is related. I realize 4% doesn't sound like much. But it WILL screw up your shift points, ABS, and performance. Your truck's computer knows the difference. Ask Ryan, he had the same problem when he went from 265's to 285's and I had it when I went from 245's to 265's on my Silverado. 4) The only reliable way for you to fix this is to bite the bullet and buy a Hypertech III programmer. Your nutcase dealer has screwed with you endlessly. Even the competent ones will mostly just scratch their butt because it's not "in the manual". Even if they could possibly figure out how to deal with it, it will take you another six months and ten trips. Your alternative is to continue to live unhappily with what you have.
    -- Don
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    That dealer is trying to pull one over on you, you can use any bank you want. I think the dealers get a bigger commission on the GMAC loans and ever sweeter deal if they can get you in under 48 months. In fact my mother used a credit union to purchase her car. The GMS/GMO pricing is good for any length loan, and any banking institution. My father got a van on a 6 year loan with gm discount. Just go to another dealer, if they don't have what you ant there, have them dealer trade for the one you saw at the other dealer lot. Tell her to call the "800" number to request a certificate, and just take it in to the dealer when it's time to buy.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Bill Heard Chevrolet in Kennesaw had no qualms about ordering exactly what I wanted using a GM Supplier Certificate. We did not discuss a payment option until I went to pick it up. Whether I had cash, credit union, or GMAC financing, it made no difference with them. The invoice from the factory has the GMO price and the GM Supplier price right on it (GMO+4%=GM Supplier). I paid the GM Supplier price and sales tax. NO adds on of any kind (no delivery add on, no documents fee, dealer prep or regional advertisment, etc BS.
    Find you another dealer... The one you are dealing with stinks...

    '01 2500 4x4 LT Suburban, autoride, 6.0 liter and all the goodies except sunroof
    Add on Cord Lighted running board, and Michelin 265 tires
  • rdtaylorrdtaylor Posts: 21
    You can soften the rear by removing leafs or having a weaker leaf pack made for you - I wouldn't recommend changing to coils (the 8.1L has a 1-ton axle assembly - much larger than the 1/2T). However, I don't think the ride of the new 3/4T with autoride (autoride is mandatory with the 8.1L) is too bad anyway - certainly better then the older 1/2T models. The 3/4T autoride is different than the 1/2T - it uses computer damping control shocks, not air leveling. You can also air-down the 3/4T tires for a softer ride when not towing.

    Unloaded, the performance of the 1/2T 5.3L and 3/4T 8.1L is probably pretty similar, because the 3/4T has higher drivetain losses and is heavier. However, it will "feel" like the 8.1L is faster due to the higher torque and peak acceleration. When towing, the 8.1L is king of the road. The denali 6.0L with the light heavy-duty drivetrain has by far the best unloaded performance, but you loose 4wd offroad capability and pay through the nose.
  • rdtaylorrdtaylor Posts: 21
    After you buy something, you're probably better off not asking if you got a good deal - it will just make you crazy because there is almost always some joker that was able to swing a better deal than you somehow. Enjoy your great new truck and try to forget how much or little you paid for it!

    "Never criticize a friend's wife or his latest purchase"
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