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Ford Explorer Electrical Problems



  • PPS: I had a Cadillac which would work properly if the drivers door was open. It turned out that the ground lead from engine to chassis had been ruptured. I repaired that and added another ground from engine to frame. With the broken connection the system had been using the drive shaft to rear differential for ground and the bushing on the transmission tail piece had been “eaten away” and I had to replace the bushing and seal. Why did it work with the drivers door open? I THINK it was using the lighting circuit for a ground.
  • I replaced the alternator and battery on the explorer and now when pressing down the gas pedal the car will not accelerate or rev the engine. Any ideas?
  • johnminnjohnminn Posts: 52
    edited January 2013
    The most probable cause is that you disturbed the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) connection. The TPS controls the computers response to accelerator position and therefore controls the "revving" of the engine. In you vehicle the TPS is part of the (ETC) Torque-based Electronic Throttle Control system.
    IF you have the Accelerator position sensor located inside the cab at the top of your accelerator, you have a ""drive by wire system" and you will need a good mechanic with the proper test equipment to diagnose the source of your problem. BUT you could check the wiring going to the throttle body. My bet is that you disturbed a wiring connection. You should be getting an engine warning light coming on on your dash. You can read out the codes the hard way if you have a haynes or similar manual, but a good readout instrument such as the Actron makes the checkup much easier. A few mechanics will charge you $35.00 to give you the answer with their test instrument.

    On a different aspect of your repair: I am very tight when it comes to replacing components such as batteries and Alternators and do not do so until I have bench tested those components. Nearly any parts supplier has the test equipment to check the condition of these components and will do so if you bring the alt. or battery or both into them. Some can and will test them on your vehicle for free or a very nominal price.

    Don't waste your money unnecessarily replacing components, and DO use only trustworthy mechanics. In today's market, FAR too many are parts swappers who will break your bank. A dealership with an outstanding reputation is very jealous of that rating and they are actually cheapest in many cases ESPECIALLY when it comes to control systems, which are HIGH profit items. Integrity is becoming a rare commodity unfortunately.
  • bivinsbivins Posts: 3

    The battery died on my '97 Explorer and after getting a jump, no interior button works. The windows do not work. The door locks do not work. The keypad no longer unlocks or locks the doors, though it does still arm and disarm the alarm. The same for the key fob, which will arm and disarm the alarm, but not lock and unlock the doors. My explorer is a 4 door with the 5.0 engine 2WD. I have already carefully inspected every single fuse, and none are blown. However, a blown fuse probably is unlikely since the systems involved do not all use the same fuse or relay.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I can only guess, but did somebody hook up the jumper cables backwards? Because it sounds like the master body computer may have been blown by the jump. This module controls all the interior electrical components on the car, which from what you say, are all dead now.
  • dottyfdottyf Posts: 1
    edited August 2013
    This week my 2008 ford sports trac started having electrical problems. My dash board lights up like a christmas tree then goes away, having surge issues too and now my dash is going black and then coming back on. You can also hear a relay clicking on an off and my door locks go on an off. Is this just a sensor gone bad or wiring coming loose or big bucks to fix issue. I'm also getting a constant tire sensor fault light, not tire pressure low, not sure if thats real or not either. I am never at a good place to check my head lights as to if they come on when dash goes out. Can any one tell if they are. All of these issues are during the work dive to and from home haven't gone out at night yet, not willing to risk it ( no lights that is).
  • bivinsbivins Posts: 3
    No, I didn't connect the cables backwards. But, what you mention is still a possibility. I will try and check this out.

  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 12,041
    Could be the PATS security system needs to be reset.
    It does run now, right?
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2014 Ford F-150 FX4
  • bivinsbivins Posts: 3
    Do you happen to know how to reset the PATS security system? The truck still runs correctly. Just no button on any door works. The radio is after market, so I cannot comment on whether or not it works properly as others have experienced. The alarm still works, it just doesn't lock and unlock the doors. The outside buttons work for setting and un-setting the alarm, but won't work the door locks.

    Unfortunately, the window was rolled down when I jumped the car. And there was no way to roll it back up. I had to remove the door panel and supply power to the motor just to roll it up manually.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  • I have a 2002 explorer eddie bauer 4.6 v8, my door ajar alarm keeps going off even though the doors are closed.Is there a sensor or something that needs replacing?????? :(
  • Bulb is good, drivers side works, turn signal, running light and emerg flashers all work. Suggestions?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    There is a sensor in the bottom hinge. Shoot a liberal amount of WD-40 in there all over and open & close the door a few times. That may fix it.
  • Kevin- I am having the same issue. Did you ever find out the problem?
  • i own a ford explor 97 keyless not pats. ive been researching all night, and would i be correct in assuming that cutting the darkgreen/ purple wire under the dash, and splicing it too the ground will disable the alarm and allow me too start the car without the fob? i really need it for work. im starting a new job 2morrow. and i promise im not steeling it lol
  • 06 Explorer Eddie Bauer appox 107,000 miles Fully loaded GPS Satellite radio...The instrument cluster lights are going crazy every thing lights up sometimes juts some of them, the speedometer and tachometer stop working and then will go on and off while driving. Usually just before is lights up the GPS screen gives me a notice that a system fault has been noticed.. so far they have replaced the instrument cluster and a PCM... every time they work on it and give it back it takes about 4 or 5 hrs of drive time and it will start up again?? It will also take a few times to start like there is no battery connection?
  • geoctgeoct Posts: 1

    to dottyf and scuba2134 - I have a 2008 Explorer that I experienced the same type of problems you are having if you are still having them. It was a few years ago and still under warranty at the time. I took it back to the dealer several times and the service manager took it back and forth to home before they could duplicate the problem. They then replaced the computer module which did not help. They finally figured out that the ignition switch was the problem. The switch has a sensor or contact in it that signals the computer that the key is in the ignition. My key was losing contact with this switch and the computer was reading that there was no key, therefore the engine is off and that it should not be receiving information about engine status at which point it turned on all the warning lights. They figured it out because the cabin lights would come on and the automatic seat would move back for exiting the vehicle sometimes as well which happens when you remove the key. New ignition switch solved all of the problems.

  • ray3627ray3627 Posts: 1
    I have a 99 ford explorer 4.0 Eddie Bauer that has a electrical problem. Dash lights and raideo light keep going on and off randomly and not all lights at the same time. Some time it will only be a light on the right side sometime just the left side of the dash other times all lights. If I hit the top of the dash a few times I can get the dash lights to come back on but it don't help the radio light. Radio still works just fine just the lights are the problem. please help this has been driving me crazzy the whole dash is apart looking for loose/broken wires ect.
  • I have 1996 Explorer 154000 miles , working perfect, few days ago the car would not start in the morning, jump the battery then everything work all day and night , the next morning the battery would not work can't start the car , after jumping the car I check battery it is good I checked the Alternator it is working fine [ it is 4 months old] I noticed the battery light on dash board do not come on at all when starting the car, all lights come on and turn off on the dashboard but not the battery light.
    One night I unhook the negative [black wire] from battery and connect in the morning the car started fine. It looks like I have short somewhere which is draining the battery overnight .
    Please help with any suggestion how to fix the battery light so it will come on and off and how to check for electrical shortening which is draining the battery .
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,659
    edited September 2017
    How did you test the battery?
    Load test?
    Was the starter tested?
    Here is a quick test that can help guide you to more things to check.
    Charge the battery.
    Put a volt meter on the battery.
    Turn the key on. Is the voltage +12V?
    If yes, turn the key to start. How much does the voltage drop?
    If drops below 10.5V, then load test the battery and check the starter.
    If it only drops a little, then the battery probably isn't the problem.

    Disconnect the negative side of the battery for at least 2 hours, to eliminate any stay alive memory.
    Connect a test light clip to the terminal clamp on the cable, then put the pointy end (probe) on the negative terminal. If it lights, you have a draw.Leave the test light connected for 10 minutes. If the light goes out, then some system kicked on.
    If the light stays on, the next step is to pull fuses until the light dims or goes out. Because of clocks, back up memory, etc, the light might not go all the way out.
    If it is really dim to start with, then you might have a battery cable problem causing your headaches.

    If you pull and replace all of the fuses and the light doesn't dim, (You might have to reset radio presets.), then remove relays one at a time.
    The likely suspects of a draw on an Exploder are alternator regulator, Fuel pump relay and lights.

    Also, remember that every time you open the door, the test light will illuminate for about 5 minutes, because of the dome light, so don't let that send you one a wild goose chase.

    Hope it helps, more than confuses. LOL!
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