Lexus RX 300

wwest · January 2005

Someone suggested that more frequent fluid flushes might aid in reducing these failures.

I don't think changing the fluid more often will be an effective effort.

The fluid is being "cooked" because something within the transmssion is over-heating. My guess is that that "something" is the bands and clutch surfaces because they are still not fully engaged as the engine builds RPMs and torque when the gas pedal is unexpectedly(***) and agressively depressed.

***The firmware in the transmission ECU is not downshifting from 3rd(?) to first until the vehicle comes to a full and complete stop. Accelerating just before coming to a full stops results in the need to quickly shift from 3rd(?) to 1st, all while the engine is already reacting to a (fully?) open throttle valve.

Except in the 04 or later with an e-throttle. In that case the engine ECU chooses not to "see" the open(ing) throttle until the transmission has shifted into 1st and the bands and clutches are fully seated. That very like takes more than 1.2 seconds, the time the shop manual says it take to shift from neutral when you first move the shifter to D, drive.

Same problem with/during coastdown, the RX transmission upshifts from 3rd to 4th (according to the 01 AWD Lexus shop manual) during coastdown, and now if you suddenlyn decide to accelerate the transmission must quickly shift from 4th to 3rd, or maybe even to 2nd, and while the engine is already building torque....

Except on the 04 or later models with e-throttle.

bobfloyd · January 2005

Am soliciting suggestions for replacement battery for 2000 RX300.

Also, what is the Battery Group for this vehicle?

wwest · January 2005

.

erik_h · January 2005

I purchased a top of the line diehard a year or two ago and it is working just fine.

fasdog1 · January 2005

I have a 2001 RX300. I had Sears install a

Diehard Gold P/N 22833035 with no problems. The

invoice says it is a Group 35 battery. They

charged $9.99 for battery check and new istallation and the batttery was $79.99. I was

in sub-zero weather in Vermant a few days later and it started right up.

dick1 · January 2005

My 2000 rx roof rack is falling off in pieces. Anyone know where i can get the back end pieces for both sides? Thanks!

dick1 · January 2005

When i use the heater controls in my 2000 rx the air cond. lite comes on. Iturn it off ,but if i for get a loud horn noise starts up. Is this freon escaping or what?Its about 10 below zero here.

wwest · January 2005

Below about 35F your A/C compressor should be completely disabled. The exception might be if it's in a warm garage and then driven out into the cold. In this latter case what you're hearing is likely the compressor trying to pump liquid refrigerant.

johnston94 · January 2005

Thanks for the info, Bent. I followed the procedure you described in #8406 to service the Idle Air Control Valve without removing it.

Hope I have the same good fortune as you.

Thanks again.

mikey00 · January 2005

Bent was not sure of his complete procedure in 8406. Any chance of posting directions now that it is fresh in your mind and also be sure and post and let us know if it works. I am sure I am going to need this sooner or later.

Thanks,

Mike

willo · January 2005

PO 171 code # 7730 Mine did the samething at 54K. I know it was over a year ago but do you remember what the problem was?? Thanks Willo

johnston94 · January 2005

Mike,

I followed Bent's procedure to service the idle air control valve from post 8406 but the problem persisted. (2000 RX will only start/idle with gas pedal assistance)

So I took it a step further and disassembled and cleaned the accessible portion of the IAC without removing the entire IAC from the throttle body.

Here are the steps to service the idle air control valve on my 2000 RX:

1. Unsnap metal clips to release air filter cover.

2. Loosen hose clamp and remove corrugated duct from air filter cover.

3. Loosen 2 hose clamps on the throttle inlet ends of the same bifurcated corrugated duct and remove the ducts from the throttle inlets. I did not disconnect any electrical wiring during steps 1-3. I was able to move the parts aside to proceed to step 4 without disconnecting any wiring.

4. Inside the aft inlet, at the bottom you will see an open well leading to the IAC valve mounted directly below. The original procedure ended here with spraying carb cleaner into the well and reassembling. Since this did not free the sticking IAC valve for me, I added the following:

5. You will see 2 phillips-head screws mounted horizontally just below the aft inlet. The screws secure a black plastic cover. Remove these 2 screws, then remove the black plastic cover being careful not to lose the black rubber O-ring seal and a flat metallic shim beneath the cover.

6. With the cover removed, you will see a metal shaft terminated with a round metallic knob. Rotating this shaft opens/closes the IAC valve. The range of motion for this shaft is not a full 360 degrees. You will be able to feel the valve open and close, although you can't see what's going on on the other end of the shaft as you turn it.

7. At this point I sprayed a good deal of carb cleaner into the well from above inside the aft inlet while rotating the IAC shaft back and forth. Expect the carb cleaner to run down through the well and out along the shaft and drip out. Don't be in a hurry here. Let the carb cleaner work and keep rotating the IAC shaft.

8. Reinstall everything in reverse sequence and start the engine.

The engine will run rough at first while the carb cleaner is present.

It's been over a week since I did this and the hard start/won't idle problem has not returned.

mikey00 · January 2005

Thanks for the great info. I don't need it yet, but I will put in the file just in case.

Mike

mbuster25 · January 2005

That's what Irontoad told me. There is no serviceable feul filter in the RX300 (2000 yr.

r1_97 · February 2005

Seems a little high to me for basically and oil change and tire rotation. Is there something else I'm missing?

stever · February 2005

Compare it to the recommendation in the Edmunds Maintenance Guide.

Steve, Host

philsy · February 2005

my wife has fallen in love with the 330 but we are concerned with the small lack of space in the rear. We are expecting our first child in 7 weeks and want to know if anyone has any experiences with trying to lug around strollers, diaper bags, groceries, etc. I have been investigating the mdx only for that reason.

Thanx,

Phil

lucian95 · February 2005

No oil leaks on mine (2002 model). However, the power steering pump had a leak, which was discovered by a local mechanic during the routine 50K oil change. I went back to Lexus dealer and a new pump was installed under warranty.

rparis · February 2005

I purchased a 2001 in March of 2001. When should I expect to replace the battery? How long do they usually last. I am in Boston in very cold weather and it is working fine.

pschiffe · February 2005

My 99RX original Panasonic® battery from August, 1999 is still going strong in the Buffalo-Niagara region after nearly 85K miles!

Pete

mikey00 · February 2005

My 01 still has the original battery at 75K. One nice thing about the rx, when the battery starts to go, you will repeatedly have to reset your digital clock. This symptom usually shows up long before the rx fails to start. Sort of an unintentional early warning indicator

commofficer · February 2005

Hello there,

I have a Chrysler Pacifica and my wife hates the blind spots so much that it's time to get rid of it. I love the car but it's the family hauler so I do what she says. :-)

I'm in Iraq right serving with the USAF now but I'll be back in the summer and I am considering trading the Pacifica in and buying a 2000-2001 RX300 instead. Does anyone have an opinion about blind spots with this vehicle? Maintenance costs? I would like to buy the 2000 since it will be cheaper and I'll take a hit on the Pacifica. We are also the type that put 15K miles on a car a year. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Phil

pschiffe · February 2005

The rear pillars and tailgate do create a large blind spot. The work around is to install a warning sensor which will alert you if it "sees" anything behind you. Of course the new models offer a pricey rear camera option. After my warranty expired, I've taken mine to a Toyota dealer for the 5K interval service. Very satisfactory, same parts and much less expensive. A superb vehicle in every respect. Good luck and God bless!

Pete

joanzie · February 2005

I have a 2001 Lexus Rx 300, my CD and Tape player just stopped on me on a trip. The radio is working fine. When I press CD on the dash it does not come on at all or say no disc. Anyone have a problem with this? Maybe it is a fuse and it just controls the CD and tape player. Should be under warranty, I guess. Thanks

mnf · February 2005

If you have a CD changer in the glove box then check the cd to make sure that the disk is facing the right way or it will give you that mesage. This is on a 2000 not sure on a 01.. good luck... Matt

erik_h · February 2005

I have a '99 and the maintence is pretty reasonable, the only thing I'm not looking forward to is the 90K timing belt change. If I were you, I'd look at the diffs between the 01 and 00 to see if you need them. There were quite a few items changed for the better (see earlier in this thread). VSC, Gas tank size, dash clips (rattle prevention), etc... on the 01.

edwardc3000 · February 2005

Phil:
First, let me say thank you for your service to our country. I wish you a safe return home.

I have a 2001 RX-300 that I purchased new. Other than a recall for a cupholder replacement, in 4 years and 47000 miles the vehicle has NEVER, I repeat, NEVER been back to the dealer for any repairs. I do my own oil changes and maintenance, and the gas mileage, ride, and overall driving experience is the best I have ever had, and it is my THIRD Lexus vehicle !

FWIW, I am getting ready to replace it since I tend to trade my vehicles every 4 years or so. I also have a transferrable bumper-to-bumper Lexus Platinum extended warranty (no deductible) and LoJack.

If you send me an e-mail and I can tell you about my experiences with my RX-300.

Thanks and please be safe...
Ed

e-mail: phula11231@yahoo.com

tidester · February 2005

If you send me an e-mail and I can tell you about my experiences with my RX-300.

That would tend to defeat the purpose of a message forum which is to share information and experiences. Stick around and enjoy the conversation! :-)

tidester, host

bobgail · February 2005

My 2000 rx 300 windshield washer has stopped working.

I checked the fuse (39) and it is ok. How is the washer pump accessed? The reservoir bottle seems hidden under the hood. I would like to check the pump with 12 volts to see if it is ok.

christinas · February 2005

Hi,
We own a '99 RX 300 with 106,000 miles. This past Friday my husband was driving it and the RPMs started to suddenly increase by 1000 increments (without us accelerating). Has anyone had this type of problem? This happened to me too. Even if I was driving slow, the RPMs suddenly jumped, then dropped back down. I hope it is nothing serious!

Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks.

wwest · February 2005

A good guess might be that your A/C compressor clutch has failed.

When the A/C clutch is engaged the engine ECU automatically adds a tad more power to compensate for the additional load.

If the load isn't there.....

rockyball · February 2005

Our RX 300 Navigation is taking 10-20 minutes to acquire and lock in satellites (Green GPS icon lighting up) Anyone else have this problem? And the solution to fix? Took the car to the dealer and they don't know what to do

tccc · February 2005

I purchased a certified 2000 RX300 with 52,000 miles on it 2 years ago. Lexus had a problem with the front struts, electric antenna motor and a main seal...all were covered under the warranty.I've not experienced any other major problems. I put on 20,000 per year and now have 95,000 miles. I just replaced the timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump, flushed the trany and transfer case. There are no major blind spots. The 2001 model has newer design changes, without changing the body...if I had to do it again, I would buy a 2001. Hope that helps.

tccc · February 2005

I have the Dueler H/L and the tread is not as aggressive as I need to get through the sugar sand here in SW Florida. Any other suggestions? Thanks

mnf · February 2005

I have a 2000 that the attena is acting up was your attena covered even with 52,000 on it or did you have a extended warranty. Thanks Matt

pschiffe · February 2005

Matt,
Try thoroughly lubricating the antenna segments with Teflon® synthetic grease. TriFlo is one brand.

Pete

commofficer · February 2005

Thanks for everyones input on this. I have sent your comments to my wife and when she can get some time she'll go test drive a 2001. I firmly believe that if she is going to drive it every day then she needs to be then one who picks it out. This theory didn't work with the Pacifica but I'll try again and see what happens. :-)

jrdowney · March 2005

I find it sometimes takes 5-10 minutes to lock. On rare occasions, usually in hills/mountains it has been completely off-line! Rather entertaining. My guess is that you have some complicated terrain that is obscuring some satellites. I can't recall how many it takes before the "green icon" shows up but you should still be getting pretty accurate tracking even if it isn't.

cluelessmom · March 2005

Hi,

This sounds very familiar to what I'm going through. I also own a 99' RX300 with 74k miles on it. My RPMs have been increasing - usually around 40 mph goes is at 3 when I go faster the rpms go higher. Does your engine feel like it is straining - not shifting down? Does your check engine light come on? Does it correct itself while you are driving and/or do you need to turn your car off before it will correct? I'm experiencing all of the above. I'm really hoping it's not my transmission. I don't have the problem all the time - comes and goes.

cluelessmom · March 2005

What is an a/c compressor clutch and what is ECU?
Thanks!

wwest · March 2005

To provide air conditioning your car has a refrigerant compressor. Becuase of the design it only needs to run intermittently, to replenish the liquid refrigerant. The compressor is equipped with an elctromagnetic clutch to it can be "run" when need be and otherwise the clutch is released.

ECU is Electronic Control Unit, usually a microprocessor, in this case the one that controls the engine operation.

If you were sitting parked with the engine at idle and the compressor clutch were to suddenly engage the engine might very well stall as a result of the sudden extra load.

Instead, the controller that is about to engage the compressor clutch "tells" the engine ECU and that ECU "boosts" the fuel/air mixture at just about the same time, or slightly before, the A/C clutch is engaged.

If the clutch doesn't engage "as planned" the engine revs will rise dramatically until the engine ECU "figures out" that the expected A/C load didn't happen.

cluelessmom · March 2005

Ok, I understand now what you are talking about, but in my case, I am not using my a/c. I'm in the northeast - could the same issue arise with the heater? I know that when I put my heat on the auto setting the a/c button lights up as well, but I always turn that button off - am I not suppose to? Could this be causing my problem?

mikey00 · March 2005

I don't have a complete understanding of the problem from your description but it does sound like it could be the transmission. If you are going like 40 and transmission begins to slip, the load will be reduced on the engine and RPMs will increase. You will feel the engine race but will not acelerate.
If that isn't an accurate description of you problem and it is more like the engine just not being able to hold steady RPMs, it could be the Mass Air Flow Sensor or the Idle Air Control Valve. You also mentioned the check engine light. A read out of the code should give you a better indication of the failure.

wwest · March 2005

by chance you have the system in defrost/defog/demist, or mixed mode, footwell and windshield airflow, the A/C compressor runs, with the indicator off, in a mode you cannot control.

2001 RX300 models, for certain, have c-best options that allow you to take more control of the A/C.

cluelessmom · March 2005

What really is happening is that I don't have a problem with aceleration - it's just that the rpm will go higher the faster I go. Normally, at around 40 my car will shift down to between 2-3. When this issue occurs, the car doesn't shift down. I have had a code ckeck done, but all it says is that the computer is a noise in the engine. Sometimes, I do notice that the RPMs do fluctuate, but not significantly that it makes me worried. I guess I watch it more now than I have in the past.

cluelessmom · March 2005

I rarely use mixed mode. I don't if this is my issue.

cluelessmom · March 2005

Could you also explain what the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Idle Air Control Valve do? I will tell you that I will run my car occasionally while I am parked (usually to keep warm) while waiting for my children to get out of piano lessons. I usually will turn the car on for a few minutes and then turn it off again. Does this do any harm?

mikey00 · March 2005

To over simplify it one is a sensor that reads the fuel mixture and the other is a valve that controls it. When they malfunction they can cause engine stalling, engine racing, etc. Letting the car run while parked to keep warm is something everyone does and should cause any problems. As far as your problem goes, I think you need to get a better understanding of it. Is the engine racing due to the trans slipping or is it an engine control causing the RPMs to vary. Any "tech" type person should be able to determine that much for you.

02electronblue · March 2005

For what it's worth, here's a summary of my experience over 4 years with my 2001 RX300:

Model: AWD, Navigation, Wood Wheel, White Gold Crystal color

Miles today: 79K

Repairs/Issues

- The "D" light is out
- The antenna stopped working around 65,000 mi
- The key broke -- begged Lexus who finally replaced it after the warranty expired.
- The drivers heated seat back stopped working, but was repaired under warranty when a new seat bottom was installed, also under warranty (premature leather cracking)
- resurfaced rotors at 75K due to loud squeaking; problem solved
- replaced two burned out bulbs in rear (one stop and one tail)
- roof rack matte black paint is starting to chip off

All in all, not too bad of service. Speaking of service, with the exception of the 60K service, all service has been performed at the Toyota dealer. The most recent service was a change of accessory drive belts AND timing belt plus oil change and transmission drain and fill..$322 out the door.

- No brake pads yet
- Overall mileage about 18.5 mpg

After a good cleaning over the weekend, it looks great!

pschiffe · March 2005

My experience is very similar with my 1999 RX300:

Model: FWD, Trac
Miles: 84K

Repairs/Issues
- "D" light, replaced myself following instructions found on this forum
- Antenna, lubricated shaft with Teflon® synthetic grease, still working
- Key, same experience, but original type aftermarket keyblanks are now available to locksmiths and OEM look replacement keys can now be had on the street for about $40.00
- Replaced brakes and tires at 50K
- Couple of brake light bulbs replaced

Superb experience, finest vehicle I've ever owned. I too have taken it to a Toyota dealer for service since the warranty expired. Very competitive price and most satisfactory. Get everything but the quick-and-dirty car wash and tire rotation for about $100 less than the Lexus store.

Pete

Lexus RX 300

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