Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • baddad7245baddad7245 Member Posts: 1
    MY 1984 CHEVY BLAZER is leaking gas . but i cant locate the problem, fuel pump is good .changed the fuel filter.appearsto be leaking some where by carb. only leakes when running .i think.also checked all lines/
  • safsimm5safsimm5 Member Posts: 1
    Hi All. I did a search and see that a few other folks had to replace the door hinge pin and bushings for the driver side door.

    In researching places to do it - I bought my 99 Blazer 4x4 4dr from a used dealer so no warranty - I was asked if "it is welded" because if it is I'll need to take the truck to a body shop.

    Now, the hinge appears to be welded to the frame, but the pin and bushings aren't. Will I be coughing up extra cash to get the pin and bushings replaced at a shop just because the hinge is welded? Call me naive, but can't they just hoist the door up, hold it suspended and swap it all?

    Help!
  • thelushthelush Member Posts: 3
    it sounds like front wheel bearings. my jimmy eats them, and have replaced them 3 times already, and i have only
    57,000 miles on it.
  • tom6457tom6457 Member Posts: 1
    4wd hi will work if battery is disconected computer reset it will sometimes work
  • amiedamied Member Posts: 2
    Okay, I did a search for Blazer electric problems and yours was the first to pop up and WOW, am having same issues.
    I purchased my Blazer at a dealership used. About a month (if that) later my mom tried to recline the front passenger seat and it snapped off in her hand. Since then, the door locks (electric) the button in the car will not work, my hatch button does not work (both on the inside and outside of the car, the rear wiper blades only work sometimes and when they do, they sound possessed (it scares my 3 year old!) The lights on my radio are slowly but surely dying, and my gas gauge just dances around so I have to watch the trip meter for mileage (hopefully that doesn't break next)! My front driver door hinge broke, and my heat only works occasionally. Probably am forgetting something, but hey, this seems like enough problems for my first post :)

    And after reading your post, I am scared because I am just over 75K miles, so does this mean my front wheel bearing is next?!?! OH and my AC is funky too.

    Any suggestions would be wonderful!!!!!

    THANKS

    Amie

    Amie
  • gorpin03gorpin03 Member Posts: 1
    Hey man,

    I've run into the same problem. I went down to the part store today and picked up some replacement pins and bushings.... The only problem is.... That stinking spring underneath the top hinge pin.... I'm thinking that the entire hinge is mounted to the vehicle as well. Tell me how your experience goes. Back to the garage for me... :(
  • tinastinas Member Posts: 1
    2002 Blazer with 35,000km. stuck in 4wd. Took her to GM dealer and placed her on the diagnosis computer. Told me it was the encoder motor, and that it was corroded. No help with the cost of replacement because vehicle is out of warranty. dealer stated that this problem is rare. anyone esle with similar problem???? help
  • hozer1hozer1 Member Posts: 1
    2000 Blazer is stuck in 4wd also at 98k. It occurred prior at 38K, took it to the dealership and called Chevy they extended the warranty and covered the cost, you can try that route, you should still be under warranty. Please let me now what it is, if Chevy is helpful and covers it. :mad:
  • joe94joe94 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem. do you have a soultion or know how to fix the problem? Thank You
  • clancy1clancy1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello: I was changing plugs in my 2000 v6 4.3 liter CPI blazer and actually found it easy (if one likes bending like a pretzel & laying on a cold cement floor easy) except for the middle one on the drivers side. Due to the stearing shaft I couldn't get the knucle on the socket on the plug no matter what the angle. I have a socket with a hex head which fits that I could use a wrench on but would like to know if there's other methods?
    Also has any one noted that after cleaning the fuel injectors (about 2 weeks or so) the fuel pressure regulator has to be replaced (which isn't fun on my v6 because the air intake manifold (plenum) has to be removed and torked back on! I have a manual that states don't run solvent through the fuel pressure regulater or it will destroy the diaphram. A sign the pressure regulator is going is excesive cranking to start the engine. Ive approached the shops and they say we've never heard of this happening but what a way for return business at $200.and up?
  • kunakuna Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem..my boyfriend jiggled at the wires and they worked for a very short period of time, but no more just the noise now.
    Is there something i can do like splicing wires or something or do I need to get a new motor?
  • raftdartraftdart Member Posts: 1
    Tawnyc-Did you ever get your headlight issue figured out? My 1996 Jimmy does the same thing. The daytime running lights work fine, but the headlights flash on and off at night. I've replaced the headlight switch in the glove box to no avail. Can anyone help?
  • thelushthelush Member Posts: 3
    my 99 jimmy slt, all of a sudden has a heat issue. the fan works fine; but heat coming through is erractic. while driving, heat is good for awhile, then it starts blowing luke-warm air, and then heat comes back again. it does this constantly, and it dosen't matter if i use the climatic control, or the manual settings. possible air pocket in system? suggestions?
    thanx.
    cold in buffalo.
  • reader5880reader5880 Member Posts: 1
    Hi looking for a reputable repair shop in LA area my '98 Jimmy makes a scrapping noise when I make rt hand turns almost like a rubber band stretching and rubbing. Brought it to a dealer they are looking at over $1000. to replace front end? :cry:
  • habyhaby Member Posts: 1
    Hi there Aimie. I just read ur post about the door locks and hatch release and im having the same problems. Cant get my rear hatch open and cant figure out how yo open the lock to get a look at it. if u know what steps i can take without spending a fortune id appreciate it. yhanx. Marco
  • tgreen2tgreen2 Member Posts: 1
    today my service engine light came on and at about the same time i noticed a hesitation in all my forward gears,no problem with reverse but when i got home i discovered that even though it would go into park i could not remove my key any body got the solution?
    thanks
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    No, you can buy the circuit card at the dealer about$50 or try and fix it by taking the cover off the motor and removing the card, cleaning, and if any burned tracks repair them, reinstall but do not overtighten the cover.
    Or, take it to the dealer and fixed in 1 hour.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    The climate control has an electric motor that blends the hot/cold air on top of the heater box under the dash that if it goes bad searches around doing what you stated. Sorry to say its expensive. Believe $200 or so for the motor and think the dash has to come out at like $400 labor - small shops that have not seen this will even charge more (mine did) so the dealer does these alllll the time, same with the heater core. If fact, if you are keeping the Blazer and the dash is out replace the heater core too. They all leak by 100k miles. Have 4 Blazers 2nd generation (98 up).
  • jrh2jrh2 Member Posts: 6
    Hi! I have a 2000 Jimmy 4.3L, 5 speed. I just had my rear brakes replaced Friday. When I was driving home from the shop I had trouble accelerating for the first few miles. The further I drove, it got better. When I arrived at home I noticed a burned rubber smell (no smoke)coming from the rear of the vehicle. What could that be caused by? Are the new brakes somehow doing this? Is that normal? Today I took a ten minute drive, no smell, parked for half an hour, drove fifteen minutes, no smell. Then I was parked another forty-five minutes, drove fifteen miles, and the smell was back when I parked. I let the vehicle sit for a couple of hours, then drove a mile down the street, when I got back home, there was the smell again! I also noticed a whining noise during the last part of the fifteen minute drive (but it didn't do it any other time) that seems to be coming from the rear of the vehicle.I am not having any trouble accelerating any more, just the first few miles immediatley after having the brakes replaced. Someone mentioned it could be my clutch, but that the smell should be coming from the middle of the vehicle. Also, I am not having any trouble shifting. I can smell it only around the left rear tire. If anyone has any ideas, I would love to hear them. Thanks in advance for any help!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Sure the smell is not brake pads? The rear calipers are the newer lighter single plastic piston type that love to bind up after they are pushed back in for a brake job. I buy rebuilts each time I do the rears cause mine have had that problem, about $35 each. Could also be the parking brake that is in the disk/drum rotor assembly adjusted too tightly. If you paid for the job take it back.
  • jrh2jrh2 Member Posts: 6
    I'm not sure. All I really know is that it smells like burned rubber and its coming from the left rear tire. Thanks for the input. I am going to take it back to the shop today. I'll post what the problem turns out to be. Thanks again!
  • thelushthelush Member Posts: 3
    thanks to the reply, and my next question is if i let it go for awhile, will i cause more problems. the engine temp. is normal, and i can live with the luke-warm air. i only have 57,000 on it, and i just spent a grand on front end work(3rd set of frt.wheel bearings) spark plugs, brakes,alignment etc.. i am not gonna spend that much more money, unless i risk serious damage.
    thelush
  • jrh2jrh2 Member Posts: 6
    Well isn't this beautiful! It was what you said. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic said the left rear caliper was not releasing. He said I was lucky I cought early before it ruined my rotors. He replaced at a cost of $107 to me. (I just paid them $103 for the brake pads!)I left the shop and drove home. (about fifteen miles) When I was about two miles from home my parking brake light came on and won't go off. When I got out of the vehicle, now the right rear side has the same smell! I called the shop and they said the right one was spinning fine while it was there. So now I have to take it back tomorrow to have it replaced and spend another $107! It seems strange that both of them have messed up after leaving the shop! What do you mean by rebuilts? Rebuilt calipers? Where do you get those? Thanks a bunch for your help!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Yes, rebuilt calipers found at any auto store for $35 each. Those rear calipers are lightweigh due to a single plastic piston and as you see they get stuck and smoke the rear brakes. Yes, shop should have done both at the same time but were probably trying to save you money. Price includes the labor so welcome to the world of Blazers. Great vehicles but lots of small quirks (some say defects).
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    If the heat-cold is cycling as you say and it is the blend motor it will not hurt the Blazer, only your comfort. If you loose all heat then its the standard clogged heater core due to Dex Cool - a Blazer top problem. The core can be flushed but often leaks and costs about $600 to change. As for 3rd set of wheel bearings - these have a 1 piece hub that should last about 100k miles so someone is putting cheapos on your Blazer or you love direct hits into deep potholes!
  • jrh2jrh2 Member Posts: 6
    Well, everything is finally finished now! I went to a different shop yesterday afternoon. The reason my brake light came on was because I was leaking brake fluid from the caliper that the first shop put on an hour before! I'm lucky I made it to the shop, that's how little fluid I had left! So I had to get the new shop to replace both of them. As they were working they found that my rotors were bad, (the first shop said they were fine)and that the brake pads put on Friday from the first shop were put on wrong! So basically, I had to pay the second shop to do everthing the first shop had done. I bought the parts from Advance myself (calipers were only $37) and the shop only charged me an hour's worth of labor. Then I went this morning and got all my money back from the first shop! I know all about the world of Jimmys and Blazers, mine has been one thing after another for five years! Heck, my transmission went out at 36K miles! I'm really don't think after going through so much crap with the Jimmy, that I'll ever buy another GM product. Thanks again for all your info./help!
  • chevguy1chevguy1 Member Posts: 6
    I recently replaced my fuel pump an my 1999 S-10 4x4 blazer and just after that my gas mileage went from about 14mpg in town to 20 mpg! But after about one month i got a "check engine lite " code after spending a lot of money on Injectors,regulators,O2 sensors, a local shop fixed the problem by fixing the restriction on the RETURN line to the gas tank. The code went away , BUT my mileage went back to the dumper . AND the power is not as good as withe the good mileage..........ANY THOUGHTS?
  • james2006james2006 Member Posts: 6
    hi can anyone help me on this ? its 95 jimmy and i am haveing some banging noise up front by the right side wheel only does it over bumps. i replaced the upper and lower balljoints pitman arm ider arm and swaybar links . and still bangs . what else could it be ? thanks
  • chevguy1chevguy1 Member Posts: 6
    Check your shock bushings and the control arm bushings. Also check the sway bar bushings and make sure it's all tight.
  • james2006james2006 Member Posts: 6
    thanks chevguy1 for the help the control arm bushings are bad and going to but new ones in this weekend swaybar is tight . will let you know if that fixed the problems thanks again
  • waynezowaynezo Member Posts: 8
    The heater fan on my 96 Blazer has started to run continuously even with the ignition off. Only way to shut it down is to turn the climate control to the off position. That's easy enough to do but my 18 yr. old has a tendency to forget at night and next a.m. the battery is dead. It now sits in the driveway with the fuse pulled, waiting to be repaired. It has also gone into default mode and only blows through the defroster.
    I changed the relay on the firewall and the climate control unit in the dash. No luck.
    A check behind the fuse box, (boy, that bezel is fun to get out), with a tester proves the number 6 fuse position is now hot all the time. I'm thinking something is shorted out and maybe getting some feedback into the circuit.
    The vehicle has 165000 on it, and what I'm reading in this forum is making me wonder if it's time to peddle it. It still has the original heater core and I'm not wanting to pull the dash out. Just call me lazy I guess. By the way, I wondered why the antifreeze looks like sewage. I flushed it a couple years ago, but it's still not pretty. No more Dexicool for me.
    Any help would be appreciated. Waynezo :confuse: ">
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Sounds like your ignition switch does not shut off. The delay is via the headlight switch I believe but I found you a link to look at and search this forum for your problems.
    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=503195&highlight=heat- er+blower
  • waynezowaynezo Member Posts: 8
    Many thanks. Electrical problems are NOT my favorite. Where do all those wires go anyway?
    I'll report back. I've already got it partially resolved, but my wife NEEDS the computer now. Later. Waynezo. :)
  • waynezowaynezo Member Posts: 8
    Hey dog. Thought I'd fill you in on what's going on.
    Visited the link you advised. WOW! This guy knows his stuff.
    The featured problem child Blazer he wrote of is a 98, but I'm sure it's basically the same. I'll check out a couple things.
    Here's what I did before your post.
    Tested the fuse block and switched the brown heater wire to the radio circuit. Vwalah, the heater fan now shuts off with the ignition key again and everything works like it should on the heater control.
    The problem seems resolved, but I'm concerned that there's still a short somewhere just waiting to burn me down. I need to take some time with the wiring diagram.
    Another benefit of my labors is the fact that the service engine soon light is now back off. Don't know if it's related to the current situation, but the light has been on so much since I've owned the vehicle that after awhile, you tend to ignore it. I'm told that black electrical tape over the light fixes lots of problems too ;)
    That's it in a nutshell, any further input would be appreciated. :) Thanks again, Waynezo
  • efk4755efk4755 Member Posts: 4
    Can someone help me. When ever I turn the heat to go to the floor it blows out the windshield defrost. All other settings work fine. This thing is really bugging me...EdK
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    See the link in #1910 above - shows all heater info.
  • jrsybillyjrsybilly Member Posts: 1
    Hello there. I found your post upon doing a search for the same problem you had with your instrument panel lights on your Blazer. I see that you originally posted almost 9 months ago and hope that by now you have had the problem solved. I was wondering if you ever got the problem fixed and if so, how? I was actually told $200 to have it fixed!!! Any help you can provide would be great.

    Sincerely,

    Bill, NJ :confuse:
  • brown15brown15 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1991 jimmy sle 4x4 4 doors. When I first drove in wet snow my side windows got so covered with wet slushy snow, I couldn't see with either of my side mirrors. The rear window has no wiper blade so I could barely see out of that one either. I had to pull over twice and get out to wipe off my side windows. I really like the way the truck handled the icy and wet roads but not being able to see wasn't good. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks, Sonny
  • joe103joe103 Member Posts: 1
    my chevy blazer has the same problem. Went through
    new tires,shocks,and and idler arm. Is somwhat better
    but still has vibration from 60 and up. Small imperfection
    in the road makes it worse. Were you able to get rid of
    the vibration in yours.
  • leakyblazermanleakyblazerman Member Posts: 1
    Ok, here's the deal. There are two lines on the passenger side of the trans. (that go to the trans cooler) still looking at the trans. the lower of the two lines is leaking at the fitting.
    I somehow managed to get my arm up over the torsion bar then squeezed my hand between the floor pan and the tranny housing and found what I think is a dust cap. I slid it back on the line and noticed that the clip is still in place.
    I had my wife start it up (while I had had morbid thoughts of her forgetting about the task at hand and going into a shopping flashback and running my greasey [non-permissible content removed] over!) what I saw was a steady leak from where the line it-self went into the fitting.
    Will I have to replace the whole line? Or if I use a pick and remove the clip will the line slide out? And will there or should there be a O-ring to be found/replaced? And do I need to break the (what I think is a) 11/16 fitting loose?
    Jeeezzz.... I hope I'm allowed to ask more than one question,....
    Any ideas or suggestions would be great, and allow me to get back to my beer!
  • boba246boba246 Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I also am having a problem with my 2000 Jimmy not going into 4HI. It switches okay into 4LO but when I hold down on the 4HI button and let go it goes back into 2WD. Any suggestions? Did you get yours fixed and what did it cost?
    Thanks, Bob :sick:
  • amiedamied Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 Blazer was doing this as well. The shop next to my work replaced the thermostat and gasket, flushed the radiator and replaced the cap. The heat worked until the next really cold day and then it did as you described. It would work real well when accelerating and then iffy after that. They were going to look at it again BUT they tried wiggling some hoses and then it seemed to work and so far (knock on wood) it is still working.
  • chendersonchenderson Member Posts: 1
    I am a girly girl so I have little knowledge about anything mechanical. Here is the problem: My 4WD on my 95 blazer quit working. I called a chevy dealer and they said they had not heard of this problem. Also, it seems my rear brakes are not working for when I go to stop at a stop sign, I slide right through.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Well they sure were full of gear oil cause Blazers are known for 4wd problems - look at the vacuum actuator under the battery, rotten vac hoses intake to actuator, on the front diff the right side axle coupler that the actuator locks, then there are the motor that puts you into low range and the encoder (several names used)that the sensors feed for the "on the fly" engagement. Find a better dealer!

    As for the brakes, the rears on yours are drums so about 75-90% done by the fronts. Have them all looked at ASAP.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Newer Blazers all have a slight shake over 60mph and the dealer bulletins say no fix, so if the lower ball joints are good, hubs (1 piece sealed with bearings) are good, the front CV axles don't leak (4wd), tires are really balanced (get a force balance - special with drum that puts pressure on tire to check out of round and harmonics),
    then it may be as good as it gets. If the shake is in the seat (of your pants) look at the rear. My 01 had out of round rear disc/drum that hopped over 60 - the disc was round but the parking brake drum part was oval. Also look at the drive shaft u-joints and balancing the drive shaft (about $100) for all if you pull it out yourself.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Look at the vac lines on the drivers side by the ABS brake module- there is a line to a reservior that rots out and tees to the intake by the PCV. It then goes to the fire wall to a vac/electric actuator then down the right side under the battery where the large Vac actuator pulls the cable to the front differential that couples the right axle. Look at all hoses. There is a switch on the axle that signals the axle is coupled/locked. Their is an encoder (goes by several names) on your pass side right kick panel (inside cabin)that all signals go thru and can get confused so disconnect battery for 30 min and reconnect (like a reboot). Also a 4 low motor on the rear of the transfer case that is the clunk you should hear when stopped and engaging 4 low or disengaging it.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Hope those bushings did the trick, if not look at the rear torsion bar mounts (sounds like right under you) cause they can cause a large clunk and usually separate.
  • newfynewfy Member Posts: 12
    howdy,my 98 jimmy 4x4 4.3 vortex has turned into a gas guzzler with 7 mpg.plugs,filter,o2 sensor.all good.engine light does not come on to indicate a problem,and no codes stored.any ideas?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Next to check are plug wires and cap/rotor. Then clean the mass air flow (MAF) sensor - in the air cleaner assembly above the air filter in a metal housing - remove the flex coupler (large hose clamp holds on) and spray some brake cleaner on the sensor. The brake cleaner evaporates and doesn't harm the delicate sensor and won't break the 2 wires on it. Its mounted in a honeycomb looking round assembly. Hope that solves it. Those are the cheaper and easier things.
  • nicanica Member Posts: 4
    Okay, there is a weep hole in my water pump and some say that ists okay and some say that i should fix it??? Suposably it's only a small hole. My service engine light keeps coming on with the code 0046 and the place that i got it from is saying that it is the gas cap. They did replace the gas cap and the light is still on. Can this be a another problem that they are not telling me about because they don't want to pay for it. Any answers
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