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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • boba246boba246 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Jimmy and my compass on the overhead console works fine but the temperature is off. I just noticed this was an item in 2003. The temperature reads way off. Example: today it is about 66 degress and the console is reading 43 degrees. It does switch eventually but according to the owners manual it says when you turn the ignition on the temperature will read the temperature that it was when you shut off the engine. How do you get to the electronics so I can replace what needs to be replaced. It was noted in the message of 2003 that the dealer told this individual that it would be $400 to replace the unit. Any input would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • sibbie7446sibbie7446 Posts: 1
    Okay first off I dont know a lot about cars well anything for that matter so please explain a simply as possible. I have a 1991 Blazer. It runs good except after driving around for about 10 blocks it starts acting weird. When stopped at a light it jumps and sputters and then dies. It starts back up fairly easily but I haven't a clue what the problem could be. I did a gas treatment and changed my oil and checked the hoses and checked all fluids. Any help would be appreaciated. And if not too much trouble how much would it cost me??
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    thank you...kay have juice at the fuse panel when tested to a different ground(brake pedal steering wheel etc)...no damage which way do i steer?.. like i said it is both doors..and like you said the locks are on different circuits :) when you say 94 diagram are we talking gm or some other publicacation..me am looking at haynes till I am blue in the face....while we are at it got another line of questiong regarding the 2.8 which i will post a little later..its a great car tons of life left in her 4 wheel drive gonna give it to my second daughter..rebuilt tranny rebuilt engine..(the crank broke) never did any hauling etc etc
  • Hey. I just want to share my story and ask some questions:
    I got my Blazer 2 Dr/4wd(which I love for its size)2.5 years ago, used with 29K miles. Did not buy any warranty, figuring its not going to be a long-term investment anyway. That week, the alternator died. Ive been known to kill alternators before so I figured it was just my bad luck. :mad: Threatened dealer to tow me to their repair shop to have it replaced, as they promised me that the car was in top shape. Thank goodness I was only 3 blocks away from the dealer and their shop. Then I noticed a knocking type of sound coming from the passangers side, inside the dash somewhere. Its not a constant knock, just once in a while. I try to map some sort of similarities when it happens, but nothing so far. Its random. Any suggestions or ideas? And ofcourse, my fuel gauge is dancing, it goes from full to half and then stops working, except at half its not half because I run out of gas pretty quickly at that point. I also just figured that I use more than half the tank in 90 miles- roughly 10 highway miles a gallon and I am shocked. Last 4th of july, after the fireworks when I returned to my car, it was dead. Couldnt jump start it, had it towed and changed the battery and alternator. Again. My moms first trailblazer, brand new 2001 spent more time at the dealers repair shop than in the driveway. Nothing ever worked from the first day she brought it home, mostly electronic problems. She traded it in for a new trailblazer ( I begged her to get a european car, as the dealer mechanic shop is like my second home, between the blazer, trailblazer and avalanche we own... )The trade-in new trailblazer is a 2004, been to the shop 5 times last year. Oh and when we did the trade-in, the guy pushed back the miles on the old trailblazer, it had around 35K and he pushed the gauge back to around 28500, as the special incentive was a warranty for all used cars under 29K. Cheeky [non-permissible content removed]. But overall I am happy with my 99' blazer and at 60K, she hasn't cost me much in repairs, yet. I will trade her in before 75K for a nice VW or Volvo though, even if shes not worth a dime....
  • Did you ever get this fixed I would like to know the fix. I have the same problem and no one seems to put a reply or fix to this problem.

    Thanks :sick:
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    took door panel off and tested at motor..have 12 volts at motor when a seperate ground is used also have juice at lock solonoid... disconnected window motor and used a seperate power source and it works fine..am i missing a ground somwhere ? where is the bus block grounded? kinda tight under the dash..p.s. i have some time to play with this thanx j :)
  • user260084user260084 Posts: 2
    I have an 1988 gmc s-15 jimmy, that revs to about 4000 rpm before it shifts from 1st to 2nd, to 3rd. I have adjusted the throttle (TV) cable, with no luck. Does anyone know anything else that can be done to adjust the shift? Thank you.
  • glags11glags11 Posts: 8
    Just leased a brand new 06 envoy..after driving for 2 days i've noticed the brakes squeaking very loudly right before the truck stops and then again right after I press the gas. This happens for about 5 or so seconds each time i break and press the gas, then it stops. Sometimes this squeaking continues when i am driving as well. Any one have any ideas as to why this is happening? Thank you.
  • franklimfranklim Posts: 11
    The quest continues....
    Lifters swapped and all put back together. Also replaced the spark plugs and changed the oil and filter. Still making the same metal-to-metal tapping noise on the driver's side that varies in speed with engine RPM and does not go away when the engine warms up. More stethoscope probing pinpoints the sound to be the loudest and most distinct on the front of the engine (specifically about half-way up timing chain cover) and between the #1 and #3 cylinder exhaust manifold ports. Sound is significantly less prominent as you move toward the back of the engine and on the passenger side. Next move: pull the timing chain cover to see if the chain is slapping around. The only thing else I can figure is that it is the connecting rod or wrist pin of Cyl #1. Is it true you have to pull the oil pan to pull the timing chain cover?

    God Bless,
    Michael
  • dgholmes59dgholmes59 Posts: 2
    I have the exact same problem with my 1998 Blazer. I have the computer climate control and keep it in the AUTO positions most all of the time.

    Mine usually works fine when it has sat for several hours. The A/C light will come on just after cranking and work fine until I stop somewhere and turn of the engine.

    When I come back after it has sat for typically less than an hour and more than 5 - 10 minutes, the A/C light will not turn on after cranking the engine. I press the A/C button and the light just blinks. Typically it takes from 1 minute to 5 minutes for the a/c to turn back and only when I am driving. Once it turns back ON, it works fine until I stop again. For the first time, last week, it turned off while I was stopped at a stop light about two blocks from my house.

    When I got to my house, I quickly installed my A/C gages before the problem cleared. The high and low side pressure was only 70 to 80 psig. Suspecting a bad pressure switch, I jumpered the low pressure switch, nothing. I jumpered the high pressure switch, nothing. The only way I was able to get the a/c back on was to turn off the engine and disconnect and reconnect the battery cable. After that, I cranked the engine and the a/c started immediately.

    The compressor is a fairly new rebuilt compressor. Since I am unsure of the computer inputs from the system, I wanted to make sure a problem with the compressor clutch resistance would not cause this problem. I disconnected the compressor clutch power cable and the clutch disengaged as it should and the A/C light stayed ON.

    From this information, I would assume the gas pressures and the compressor clutch is not causing this problem. I now suspect a problem with the Computer Climate Control module or its temperature sensor since disconnecting the battery and reconnecting cleared the problem and the system worked fine. I just do not understand why it works when I first crank up in the morning and doesn't work when it has sat idle for less than an hour and more than 5 - 10 minutes.

    Hotter ambient temperatures do seem to have some affect. This has happened only one time, but the A/C would not turn on immediately after leaving work about a week ago. It was very hot outside, about 95 deg, and hot inside as well. But as always, worked fine after driving about a couple of minutes and worked until I arrived home 45 minutes later.

    You are the first one that appears to be having the same problem. Have you found the answer yet?
  • franklimfranklim Posts: 11
    Timing chain is loose, real loose. I was not able to get the oil pan to let go of the block and transmission after pulling all bolts out (including the two small ones around the starter) and pulling the oil cooler block under the oil filter. I was able to pry the front of the pan down enough to get the timing chain cover off. The plan will be to re-use the existing oil pan gasket and use RTV to fill in the gaps on the front where the block deck and timing chain cover lower lip meet. It does not look like there is enough clearance to remove the oil pan while the engine is still installed in the truck. Might be possible if the transmission was out of the way. Not too sure how good of a job I could do removing the existing gasket, cleaning oil and debris out of the way and installing a new gasket without being able to completely remove the oil pan from the vehicle.

    God Bless,
    Michael
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Found your answer:
    Sensor is up front of radiator in behind the grill 98up # 9152245 for approx $22. Its a thermistor and as the temp increases the resistance decreases. Light green wire w/strip from the display to sensor other side to ground. Temp won't update until 18mph and good reading after 36 mph for 2 minutes.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Is the check engine light (or SES) on, if so read the codes out. If not then probably the CPI and hoses (nut kit) leaking under the intake manifold or fuel pump pressure so have them checked. Prices at shop vary but pump around $500. Shop will give an estimate before any work done but have to pay to analyze/determine.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, Haynes for 94up. That 2.8 was a gm car motor TBI.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Think your questions were gauge and knock so the sender is part of the fuel pump assembly in the tank and GM has a robust one now that online sells for $300 and then have to drop the tank to install so $600 plus at shop. The noise could be many things so specfic location sound needed but the heater core is behind the dash glove box and guggles when clogging. Flasher and blinker relays also back there but those click. Could be brake noise too, or drive shaft, 4wd, etc.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    AC or airbag light?
    AC auto climate has an electric blend motor and the control head (switchs on dash) plus a pressure switch that is bad the core freezes and melts so temp swings. Go to a shop that has seen these systems or GM or the analyzes will cost a bunch for new guys to determine and they will have to go to the online manual for this system (been there done that). GM compressors always blow the seals around 80k too.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Beleive the ground is thru the door hinge pins (metal to metal) so just run a new wire door to a body frame and see if that works.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Think you have a vac modulator on the trans that would effect that. Look that up online and check or at the auto store. Be my first try. Check the vac lines too.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Have the dealer check it out, its free. Could be sticking clipers or another quality GM assemly job that someone forgot to torque a bolt or something on the brake parts, hubs, or suspension - been a few things like that in the recent past (shock I know).
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Pressure switches are a common gm problem especially the newer snaller type so check the connectors there. Mine did the same thing and it was those. Also had a new blend motor one time but thats a hot cold cycling problem as the door swings back and forth. Search autoac online to help with just AC but can't list specfic other sites here. As for the control heat never tested that yet.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yep, have to lift up engine to remove pan due to cross member. Seen some info on chain slap and some new tensioner GM has but never had that fun job yet. Man, you are dedicated - at this point wish you had pulled the engine at the start but who would think all these things would happen. Hope this is the last fix you have to do for now.
  • jasone_24jasone_24 Posts: 1
    I am looking at buying an 89 s-10 blazer with an automatic transmission. The seller said the parking pin is broken, so when you put it in park it does not lock the transmission and it will roll like it is in neutral. I was curious if driving it like that will tear up the transmission, or how difficult it is to repair/replace. Could not find any other forums or knowledge bases that covered this problem.
  • Thanks.
    I do have a gurgling water noise from the passanger side behind dash every time I start driving the car (sometimes it continues while I am driving). Also, there is a lot of hot air coming from the vents that heat the legs, when the a/c and vent system is off.
    m.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Clogged heater core and if you smell Dex Cool in the vents(bad old maple syrup smell) then it leaks too (can laek and seal many times so on and off occurance). If no smell you can flush the core with a garden hose by removing them where they connect at the firewall or the block - but do not flush the crap into the block!! Sometimes that works(for awhile) but never fail by 100k that core has to be replaced. Dash has to come out so $400-600 at dealer. Any Blazer over 5 years old they do not cover normally - not even half (will do half thru zone if under 5 years and 75k usually). Do not get the distributer wet - cover with a plastic bay or something. When you pull the heater hoses off rotate them forst to break the seal or you may damage the heater core inlet/outlet pipes.
    As to the "always hot air", if no leaks that could be related to the climate control (automatic only) and an electric blend motor up under the dash on the heater box that fails and searches for a position. If not automatic and it still happens rotate the dails around to clean the contacts (happens in moist climates).
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Believe its a 700r4 trans so look for info on that or call a trans shop and ask them. I would think twice before buying anything that old - asking for trouble unless its really cheap. I would look at 2nd generation 98up with the 4.3L and 4L60 electronic trans, has rear disc too. Dosen't that have the 2.8L car motor (87-89) that was weak.
  • gheruthgheruth Posts: 2
    When ever breaking from high speeds long squealling occurs on breaks. Checked the break pad and the actual break and thats all fine. ANy suggestions?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Does it pull to one side or pulse/grab at all?
    Rotors can cause many problems with Blazer braking as they wear or warp. Many pads have anti squeal shims on the back that rot or rust off and others you have to use the permetex anti squeal spray or paste to coat rear side of pads (not side facing rotor). The slide pins may need to be greased also - common overlooked thing that does not allow the calipers to apply even pressure to both sides of rotors (more wear on one side occurs). Rear slides are very often never lubed due to design, and the rear calipers are cheap single piston units that I replace with rebuilts each brake job. If fact, you can buy "loaded" calipers that are a caliper, pads, bracket, and other parts and thats the best deal especially on rears.So, the bottom line is to really known you have to look at the whole system and mileage since last repair and moisture conditions also apply - lots can rust rotors and wash off lube and none drys out pads and often makes squealing occur. A good hard ABS type stop may clean them and seat the parts but only do this on a wide road, no one behind you , both hands on the wheel, no loose things to fly around, and stay out of ditches! Many drivers never ever try a panic stop and feel the ABS today.
  • gheruthgheruth Posts: 2
    No pull to one side, however the pulse occurs. I had heard about the permetex anti squeal spray from a friend, and I plan on trying that this weekened. It has spent the last 6 years near the ocean(lots of salt build up) so that also could be another reason. The maintence was all done by the previous owner who is an expert mechanic, so Im not worried about that. I would like to try this ABS type stop could you explain?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Just a panic or full foot on brakes stop and ABS is heard and felt working - do not do this near other cars, unless they cut you off of course. Don't know how long you had this Blazer but often experts take shortcuts or miss things so really you need to have the rotors measured and turned if still thick enough to fit pulsing, and pull all 4 slides out and check them for grease. Look at both sides of the rotors. Take it apart completely once or you will be doing fixes over and over getting mad - been there done that as I have 4 of them in coastal area. There are also stainless inserts on the brackets that the pads sit on and they are clipped on and may contact the rotor if crud/rust built up or they pop out slightly. The spray/paste is for pads without the shims on them.
  • peeps1peeps1 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know a good chevy mechanic in denver?? I have gone to the dealership the last time I had a problem and they screwed me over...so if anyone can help that'll be great!
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    thanks repairdog..all systems are go..just gotta find a ground under the dash to hook into..as you might remember the door jamb switch and the door locks share the same common ground...cant believe that the drivers door is the ground for the passenger door locks and all windows...nonetheless thank you..are you ready for another one?? 2.8 overheated a couple a times and now got a knock like a wrist pin or lifter...threw some gonna fix all gonna grind my valves stuff in it but to no avail...gets a little quieter as she warms up but dout it is valve train...ideas?? :)..p.s. same car 86 jimmy with 60 on the rebuilt with a used crank
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Drivers door has the master switch and lockout.

    As for the 2.8 if it overheated a few times hope water did not damage internals but you did change the head gaskets if you did the valves. The lifters may be noisey and the high mileage oil does help (with a good filter regularly changed) or a can of lifter quiet may clean any deposits on them off cause hope they are just dirty and not totally pumping up (hydralic) with oil pressure - don't know how much I'd keep pouring into that 86. I'm at 140k on one of my 98s and its book value is pretty low and 86 is like almost nothing. Good luck on it.
  • fungifungi Posts: 2
    This is a problem that seems to come and go and only seems to happen for the first 10-15 minutes. When braking at slow speed (ie. when approaching a stop sign at less than 10mph), the brakes completely lock up. Now, in the summer, other than getting funny looks when screaching to a halt it is not such a big deal...but in the winter, when you sail right through an intersection it can be quite "exciting" to put it mildly.

    Has anyone experienced this....I'm assuming it is an ABS sensor that is malfunctioning.....are these easily replaced?

    Thanks for your help.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    This is not something to be driving around with - you or someone else may die so get on this - you or a shop!!!

    95 has rear drums so assume its them locking, correct?
    The sensor for the rears is in the transmission for 2wd and transfer case 4wd. The fronts each have a sensor. If no ABS light on dash illuminated then should not be control module. Look at those rears and replace the shoes, turn the drums, and probably time for wheel cylinders and a good flush/bleed of the system. About 90% of the braking is from the fronts so if not the rears go thru them too and look at the rotors for uneven wear and slides not moving. Is the pedal firm when stopped also?
  • fungifungi Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response.

    It seems like they all lock up, but for sure the front do (vehicle noses down)...but as I said only at very low speed (less than 10mph) and only for one or two stops. When it locks up the pedal is rock hard and pulses (like normal ABS pulse).

    I replaced the pads and rotors, made no difference. The ABS light is not on.
  • jkev229jkev229 Posts: 2
    I started to hear this bubbling garguling noise that comes ang goes sometime a few months ago, my truck is still under warranty. I made the service manager aware of this and he stated that there probably was air in my cooling system an flushing it would slove the problem most likely. I had the dealer flush out my system an it still makes the noise, the crazy part is whenever i brought my truck up to them to hear the noise it didnt even make the noise for them to hear it. I noitced that when i look at my overflow tank when the truck is warm the fluid level is always more towards the ADD mark then FULL. An when its cold it seems like its at that same spot as well. So im wondering if i was to fill the overflow tank up to the FULL mark will it solve the problem? PLEASE HELP
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I did some looking and moisture in the rears is reported to make this occur in the rears. Also saw a recall.safety issue 89-96 with braking issues (longer than normal stops) due to 4wd/2wd switch and the computer. So if this is not related to the rears I would call the deater and run your VIN, worth a try, but they will probably want to charge to inspect. Try the stop on a dirt road and have someone watch and see which really lock up if one close.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, and this is classic heater core clogging noise and the quick fix is to flush (which is cheap and easy) but the real fix is core replacement and thats pullng the dash so over $500 to get to the heater box. Dex cool and 4.3L Blazers design with the GM cap have had more problems than most other GMs. That 5/150 coolant ad is BS and if you search you will see the many complaints. The correct way to fill is up to the hot line when cold - Dex cool does not like air so thats the best way to keep it out and from clogging the small core (like a mini radiator in there). Stant caps are the perferred one to use on these also. At some point this will blow a small hole and then you will have to pay - thats what they want to defer to. Get the problem noted in writing at the dealer and tell them you want the zone rep to look at this and a new core installed now. Document and insist but don't get mad, keep good records.
  • freddi19freddi19 Posts: 2
    Hi. I have a 99 Chevy Blazer. Every morning regardless of the tempertature outside, I hear a clicking noise on startup. It usually lasts approximate 1-2 minutes. There has been occassion where it has lasted longer than 2 minutes. I wait for the clicking to stop before actually driving the vehicle; however I've noticed that if I step on the gas while in park, the clicking will speed up. What coluld be the cause of this?
    Thanks for your help
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Mileage?
    Probably a lifter sticking or pumping up. Check the coolant reservior and see if it is slowly dropping. Often this is the classic leaking lower intake manifold first sign as the Dex cool leaks into the valley on the lifters - you will never see it in the oil due to evap in there. If you are close to 100k thats it. If you are luckly just try some lifter quiet treatment and start using the high mileage oil with a good filter - it really helps. Check for oil cooler line leaks too - lines to radiator on drivers side. 4wd has 2 sets and 2wd 1 set. Finally, if the intake has been done check that the throttle cable is not pushing on the PCV and that makes a clicking too - often the cable holddown to the intake (plastic clip) breaks. Hope that helps.
  • Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum, and I just bought a GMC Jimmy 2.8 V6 for $200, and it's a late '80s, not sure yet exactly what year. Anyways, all I know thats wrong with it mechanically is it has no oil pressure. Have any of you had this prob with yours? I was told its either the oil pump for the motor is bad, but it only has like 90,000 miles so i dont think thats the case. Can anyone help me? :sick:
  • franklimfranklim Posts: 11
    All back together after replacing the timing chain, gears and cover and still making the noise. I checked into the timing chain tensioner and found out it was $175+. Out of money for now so opted to not upgrade at this point. Kind of dobut the new timing chain set would cause a rattle that the one with 100k miles on it would, so I don't think the tensioner would solve the riddle at this point anyway. I will just have to drive it as-is. I am thinking that it could either be a sticky valve or something on the piston assembly for cylinder #1. I did not see anything overly worn on the lifters so I doubt the intake manifold water seepage issue has taken out the cam or main bearings. Any suggestions?

    God Bless,
    Michael
  • sandi7sandi7 Posts: 1
    I own a 99 Blazer(4WD, 4D) with 50K miles. Over the last 6 mo the gas mileage has gone downhill--from 15 to 18 mpg to about 10 mpg in all driving conditions. The engine check light came on temporarily, but then when I got to the shop to check it there was nothing saved.

    What is the most common culprit in this situation? O2 sensors, ignition, etc. Otherwise it runs ok with adequate power, starting, etc.

    Thanks a lot,
    Sandi
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Replace sending unit as #1 (don't run if no pressure at all), no pressure then pull distributor out (mark position of the cap and internal rotor pointing for reinstall - need a timing light too) and check the pump drive on the bottom of dist, see if pump turns (long screw driver down dist hole), and if all fails, probably the pump - assumes oil and clean filter and the whole motor is not a sludge mess. That baby is over 17 years old and at 90k (old odometers had no 100k digit so is it really 90k, 190k, 290k??)wasn't run very hard so the internals may have deposits and it was a car motor belive only 87-89 used them.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Look at the plug wires breaking down, plugs possibly, but if it runs good I would first check the air filter, then clean the MAF sensor that measures the air and feeds the computer on fuel - its in the air intake above the filter housing - they make MAF sensor spray or use brake or electronic cleaner - not carb due to residue-(do not scrub it will break). Its in the honeycomb, a little sensor embedded. After that is the temp running alittle less then straight up or 190-200 degrees - if much lower the thermostat can stick open (low or cold running) will run great but be in a cold start fuel mode that is rich and uses more gas.
  • when i start the car my oil pressure guage shoots all the way up what could be the cause of this :confuse:
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Bad or clogged sending unit, extremely dirty oil or too heavy a weight (most 98up call for 5w-30), or clogged filter. Do an oil/filter change then if still there put a new sending unit in. Never said year of Blazer. For high mileage use the newer high mileage oil, it really helps clean, lower oil burn off, and drips at the seals.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    You will be an expert soon, so here's some more data points for you. Look up "rebuilding the new chevy 262 doug anderson" and you will find all the info on the 4.3L motor differences and internals. Can't list other web site actual links but this will steer you to it.
  • its a 1992
  • divrdowndivrdown Posts: 3
    My 1999 GMC Jimmy just dies randomly. Replaced the fuel pump and sending unit and fuel filter in March. Just had the transmission rebuilt and the car just randomly dies now. I've replaced the plugs, O2 sensor, injectors, distributor cap, and wires. I'm at a complete loss, as is my mechanic. The car drives fine and then all of the sudden it stalls out. Have no clue what to do...PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME IF YOU CAN?!?!

    Thanks
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