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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If it has been inspected and you trust the mechanic then do them. Assume this is 4wd cause they are the ones with weak ball joints. But, I've done 3 of my 4wds and the 01 at 85k is next - you get the classic clunk noise up front usually from the lower joint (never have put an upper on yet), tires start to have a slight high speed shake (after balancing) and wear is uneven, you can feel the steering wheel shake side to side - but again often the shakes/tire wear are a sign that a front end aligment is needed. As for the idler arm that is passenger side and on 4wd seldom greased (they miss it) and thats more of a steering slop/wander kind of thing and a new one tightens that up some. On 2wd the ball joints are heavier and not usually required until 150k or so - they have more steering system or greaseable joint problems (center link).
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Again, if you tested at the fuel rail don't see how its leaking back in the tank, but 60psi is the min for start (test with key on engine off) and the 53 psi running is OK. You are throwing alot of $$ at this so really a tow is pretty cheap to get a real analysis and avoid this headache. If you are by a military base most have an auto/hobby shop that would gladly help you out.
  • jmac6jmac6 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. Here's the thing. I'm not sure the repair shop is trustworthy. I've scheduled an appointment. My question is this: If the ball joints were in need of immediate repair, would there be steering or handling problems ? There does not appear to be any problems with handling, nor any unusual noises when driving. By the way it is 4WD. Your insight would be appreciated.

    Later.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Normally yes you start with a small clunk noise and tire wear and/or shake at higher speeds. If the tires are balanced and the above 60 slight to mod shake starts thats the reason most get them changed because its annoying then. But these are a known weak point in the design of 4wd Blazers due to the CV shaft having to pass above them into the hub. 2wds have a larger lower ball joint. Your call.
  • kcolekcole Posts: 2
    I had the transmission replaced on my 2000 blazer and the mechanic broke the oil pan. How do I replace it? It is a 4x4. Should he be responsible? What else do I need? Gasket? PLEASE HELP.

    kcole
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, the trans guy has to fix it or sue his [non-permissible content removed] - this requires the engine be lifted up on a 4wd so it will not be cheap - hold your ground or most small claims courts are up to $5k now - check online and also make sure he did not bust the engine mounts too - probably did if the oil pan is broken (aluminum). In small claims you can get a sheriff to serve him and he and all workers you name will have to be in court so no work that day - maintain your cool and state facts. If the 4wd is 4 button with Autotrac hope he put blue syn fluid in the transfer case or he probably wreaked that too!
  • jimmy94jimmy94 Posts: 6
    As it turns out i ended up rebuilding the engine. the main and connecting bearings were about to go. also the timing chain was sloppy, several spark plug wires were bad, and there was something wrong with the intake valves on one of the heads. They were seating in the wrong position so they were never closing all the way. After rebuilding the engine, new pistons rings, and getting a new head and rebuilding all valves the jimmy has never ran better.
  • momof7momof7 Posts: 8
    Help!! I have replaced EVERYTHING. Fuel relays, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Pump, Inline Fuel Filter and ECM. Tested pressure and is pulling 60 psi, definitely has fire, but won't stay running more than a couple of seconds. What am I missing? Desperate
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    While you're waiting for a reply here you may also want to try Idle or Stalling Problems - All Vehicles.

    tidester, host
  • doc_john_13doc_john_13 Posts: 3
    When I set the Cruise Control nothing happens.
    I checked the fuse in the fuse box.
    I put the radio to AM, and I can hear it click on and off.
    I do not hear anything when I push the set button.
    Don't know what to check next, or what to do.

    Help

    Thank's
    John
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Switch mounted above the brake pedal that shuts cruise off when you apply the brakes may be bad and they are cheap but a pain to bend yourself to reach up in there - may have to take the plastic piece off to reach it but only 3-5 small screws hold it up there - somewhere around 6-8 mm heads.
  • ckk4ckk4 Posts: 13
    Sorry for the late response. Same happened with my Blazer. I ended up taking the motor unit out and found out the plastic cover didn't seal properly so there was dirt inside of the motor. I cleaned all of the dirt out and regreased as necessary, works fine now.
  • ckk4ckk4 Posts: 13
    Hello All. I recently replaced the power steering fluid "coolant line" (sits in front of the radiator) and was just double checking that I connected the lines correctly from the pump to the coolant tube. Does the flexible PS line (which is connected to the PS pump) connect with the end of the PS coolant line which runs along the bottom of the coolant line before making it's way through the "S" turns, which ultimatley connects to the return line? Or the other way around. Thanks.
  • jlj1978jlj1978 Posts: 1
    Hi. I have a 95 Chevy Blazer. Here's a lil bit of background. The trans was slipping at highway speeds a little. Recently I changed transmission filter and fluid...made a world of difference. It drove like a brand new truck. This whole time, my A/C didn't work, just blew luke warm air. 3 weeks after changing trans filter, I discovered that the connection to the A/C system where the relay is wasn't making good connection. So I wiggled it around and bingo, the A/C started working. Here in lies the problem. That very same day, after shutting the blazer off, I started it back up again to drive home. On the way, the transmission went to neutral after 2nd gear (around 20-30 mph). It engages perfect into reverse and drive and I can make it thru 1st and 2nd gear, then nothing. I pulled the pan off under the vehicle and checked all the plugs and wires going into the transmission and everything is in place. Could someone please help me with this issue? Did connecting the A/C do something to the computer? Causing it to kick out after 2nd gear?
  • kennedbkennedb Posts: 3
    Vehicle stopped running while moving down highway. Attempted to restart and will not. Battery is working. When attempting to start the engine vibrates/shimmys like crazy. Thought it was the timing chain...checked it and it looks good.
  • jnlautojnlauto Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have a 1997 blazer 2 door 4x4. It has 125,000 miles on it and has been a very good vehicle. I was driving it down the highway and loud clicking noise started coming from the passeneger side front. It ssounding like a gear clicking, it was a very fast click. It started all at once with no warning. I had it towed home and drove it down the street and the noise would start as soon as I started moving and all the guages went out. I checked and the fuse for the guages blew, I replaced it and it blew again with in about 5 minutes. I checked the front drive shaft and it is in 4 wheel drive, you can not spin it by hand. I jacked the front up and put it on jackstands and had someone hold the front axle why I tried to spin the front tires and the front rear is locked in. I have not had this truck in 4x4 since January so I assume somehow it locked in 4 wheel drive on its own. I also noticed that the guages switch also works the 4x4 switch on the dash and that is the fuse that blows now. I don't know if the problem is in the front rear or the transfer case and I don't know if the blowing fuse has anything to do with the 4x4 system. Is there a computer somewhere for the 4x4 that could have engaged it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • chevguy1chevguy1 Posts: 6
    My "99 Blazer has not been in 4 wheel but twice in two years and on Saturday I put it in just to make sure it worked. Well it went into 4-High , would not go into 4-low and will not go back to 2-high. I replaced the dash switch and it is still no workie. Any body got any thoughts?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Search the forum there are many posts in the last few months on this but first check the vac hoses that come off the intake manifold by the PCV (small size is 5/32 and larger 7/32. They often rot out and run to the vac reservior can in drivers fender, then T off to a solenoid on the firewall, then down to the vac actuactor under the battery. After this it gets more detailed so fit these and try it. Often disconnecting the battery for 30 min will reset the 4wd computer.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The 4L60E trans has solenoids and many parts that can stick/fail etc due to wear so take it to a trans shop for a free diagnostic and they can tell you before they work on it - many are simple drop the pan repairs before the full rebuild at $1500 or so. Bear to find the problem without a trans scanner for the codes. Doubt the AC effected anything in the trans unless you disconnected some wiring on the intake to sensors but doubt it.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Check the fuel pressure - sounds like the pump is about shot. Key on engine off 60psi (and running 54psi). Possible fuel filter clog, dist cap/rotor cracked, sensors, etc.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    97 known for faulty ignition switch module in the steering column - search and the info is there. First place to try with those electrical problems. Front drive shaft always spins and there is an axle coupler on the front pass side that engages the pass side. Axles splined to the hubs. 4HI only couples that axle and 4LO engages a lower gear in the transfer case as well. Check the vac lines as I just poeted above in #2385. Then on from there.
  • sharon77sharon77 Posts: 1
    I have taken my blazer to be repaired numerous times. I had to replace the cat converter, which collapsed, the muffler, o2 sensor, mass air flow sensor and it still hitches. My mechanic suspected the egr valve but it didnt set a trouble code. He cleaned it, free of charge, but it didnt make a difference. It seems to get worse the further I drive and gives the most trouble going uphill. Any suggestions? Its a 96 with a 4.3.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Think you mean surges/bucks/shakes/spits which with heat could be the coil. Was the Blazer put on a scope/analyzer and the firing pattern looked at? Did they test the fuel pressure as the pump gets old it could heat up and pressure could drop and if lower than 54psi would be a problem running. Fuel filter OK?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,081
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  • bntapplebybntappleby Posts: 1
    My Jimmy's AC blows only through the defrost vents. Can anyone help me figure out what is wrong? Thanks!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The selector on the dash goes to a vacuum operated driver that moves a door in the heater box so would look behind the glove box and see if the vac lines are connected to it and then a few metal rods move and could be stuck or disconnected. Models differ and some use a cable not vac and climate control ones (temps marked on selector and auto settings) also have an electric blend motor on the heater box. Any AC shop should be able to fix this.
  • kmbsinkhornkmbsinkhorn Posts: 1
    A couple of weeks ago my blazer got to where some times it would take several turns before it would start. It got better, then worse. Most recently it took about 6 turns. Today it quit all together and when I tried to turn it over it clicked several clicks. It did this several times. 25 minutes later it started fine. I've heard everything from starter to fuel filter to battery cable. Any guesses?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Would test the battery first - sounds like its dying or has lost a cell so take it to an auto store and they will load test free. Is the alternator still charging (13-14V on the gauge) and store can test free too. If those 2 are good then same store should see a high current draw when you start and pinpoint the starter. If starter is going the bearings/bushings wear down and the armature drops and if you give it a good rap with a hammer (3 lb one) and it then starts - its starter time.
  • ladydemonsialadydemonsia Posts: 5
    i have a 92 s-10 blazer 4.3L 6cyl that seems to idle irractically and will stall at full stops (only some times). sounds fine during acceleration. the vehical responds the same whether hot or cold. We have replaced the plugs, wires, map sensor, fuel filter, air filter and egr valve. we have NOT replaced the O2 sensors yet. nothing seemed to help except the map and egr and that was only temporary. someone suggested cleaning the maf sensor, but i don't know where this is or how it should be cleaned.
    we also get heat coming out from the floor vent with the a/c and heat off. is this from the climate control or heater core? there was another post with gurgling and i wasn't sure if the issues are related? we are planning to replace the digital dash, so it would be a good time for the heater core anyways...
  • jnkraabjnkraab Posts: 2
    I have a 96 chevy blazer with the 4.3 vortex v6, and after getting my fuel injectors cleaned, the truck started great and ran good for 2 weeks, now it all of a sudden it takes a couple of cranks to get the truck to start, after it does it runs fine, but when it does start from the back of the truck it seems like its running rich from the fuel you can smell from the cranking. also if you shut the truck off and start it again it will start fine, but if you let it sit awhile, you have to crank it like up to six or seven times to start again. any ideas? is it a fuel regulator that is not holding back the fuel on start up?

    thxs for any help
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