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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    97 known for faulty ignition switch module in the steering column - search and the info is there. First place to try with those electrical problems. Front drive shaft always spins and there is an axle coupler on the front pass side that engages the pass side. Axles splined to the hubs. 4HI only couples that axle and 4LO engages a lower gear in the transfer case as well. Check the vac lines as I just poeted above in #2385. Then on from there.
  • sharon77sharon77 Posts: 1
    I have taken my blazer to be repaired numerous times. I had to replace the cat converter, which collapsed, the muffler, o2 sensor, mass air flow sensor and it still hitches. My mechanic suspected the egr valve but it didnt set a trouble code. He cleaned it, free of charge, but it didnt make a difference. It seems to get worse the further I drive and gives the most trouble going uphill. Any suggestions? Its a 96 with a 4.3.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Think you mean surges/bucks/shakes/spits which with heat could be the coil. Was the Blazer put on a scope/analyzer and the firing pattern looked at? Did they test the fuel pressure as the pump gets old it could heat up and pressure could drop and if lower than 54psi would be a problem running. Fuel filter OK?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,042
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  • My Jimmy's AC blows only through the defrost vents. Can anyone help me figure out what is wrong? Thanks!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The selector on the dash goes to a vacuum operated driver that moves a door in the heater box so would look behind the glove box and see if the vac lines are connected to it and then a few metal rods move and could be stuck or disconnected. Models differ and some use a cable not vac and climate control ones (temps marked on selector and auto settings) also have an electric blend motor on the heater box. Any AC shop should be able to fix this.
  • A couple of weeks ago my blazer got to where some times it would take several turns before it would start. It got better, then worse. Most recently it took about 6 turns. Today it quit all together and when I tried to turn it over it clicked several clicks. It did this several times. 25 minutes later it started fine. I've heard everything from starter to fuel filter to battery cable. Any guesses?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Would test the battery first - sounds like its dying or has lost a cell so take it to an auto store and they will load test free. Is the alternator still charging (13-14V on the gauge) and store can test free too. If those 2 are good then same store should see a high current draw when you start and pinpoint the starter. If starter is going the bearings/bushings wear down and the armature drops and if you give it a good rap with a hammer (3 lb one) and it then starts - its starter time.
  • i have a 92 s-10 blazer 4.3L 6cyl that seems to idle irractically and will stall at full stops (only some times). sounds fine during acceleration. the vehical responds the same whether hot or cold. We have replaced the plugs, wires, map sensor, fuel filter, air filter and egr valve. we have NOT replaced the O2 sensors yet. nothing seemed to help except the map and egr and that was only temporary. someone suggested cleaning the maf sensor, but i don't know where this is or how it should be cleaned.
    we also get heat coming out from the floor vent with the a/c and heat off. is this from the climate control or heater core? there was another post with gurgling and i wasn't sure if the issues are related? we are planning to replace the digital dash, so it would be a good time for the heater core anyways...
  • jnkraabjnkraab Posts: 2
    I have a 96 chevy blazer with the 4.3 vortex v6, and after getting my fuel injectors cleaned, the truck started great and ran good for 2 weeks, now it all of a sudden it takes a couple of cranks to get the truck to start, after it does it runs fine, but when it does start from the back of the truck it seems like its running rich from the fuel you can smell from the cranking. also if you shut the truck off and start it again it will start fine, but if you let it sit awhile, you have to crank it like up to six or seven times to start again. any ideas? is it a fuel regulator that is not holding back the fuel on start up?

    thxs for any help
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    You don't have a MAF - you got the older model with the map - any codes on - SES or check engine light on? Did you repkace the cap/rotor too I hope. The older CPI injection can leak under the intake and may require replacement (search above and many posts) but you should be smelling a heavier gas small than normal - look on the dip stick too and smell that for gas. Check fuel pressure cause low will cause bed idle or be related to the CPI.

    Believe the older model have a heater control valve in the line in the engine compartment that may be frozen on allowing hot coolant to always circulate (nwer models do not have this - always flows).
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Check the fuel pressure - requires 60 psi cold start and 54psi to run. Possible that the cleaning damaged the regulator or injector poppets - cheap design with mostly plastic parts. As for the cranking - have to ask but how is the battery and alternator - get them tested at the local auto shop its free and a failing battery/alt can cause many problems on Blazers with a lower voltage. Don't assume fuel only. In hot climates I only get 3 years from a 3 year full warranty battery so been there often. Alts average about 60-80k as norm on Blazers too.
  • jnkraabjnkraab Posts: 2
    the battery is 6 months old and alt is 1 year old, battery cables were replaced 2 summers ago...this morning the truck started better on 2 cranks to go but still seems harder to start then there any way to know if its the regulator or poppets? or should i replace both?...also the poppets, are they the injectors or part of them and can i buy these parts seperate and are they hard to replace?

  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Check the fuel pressure first if thats the orginal fuel pump. The CSFI system has 6 separate injectors each a plastic tube with a small poppet or injector on the end that clip into the intake under that plastic upper intake cover - these are fed by the central assembly or spider that has the regulator and the electronics that distributes the fuel - the fuel rail is bolted into this (see the 2 metal lines from the rear of the engine) and this has a test port to check the pressure. Each piece is not cheap but if this turns out to be bad GM now has a new replacement system called MFI that bolts right in and replaces the whole mess as one piece (redesign). Search the internet on this and you'll find the system - not allowed to get other links on this forum and the article is in pdf so can't paste it.
  • kennedbkennedb Posts: 3
    Original Post: (2382)
    Vehicle stopped running while moving down highway. Attempted to restart and will not. Battery just replaced. When attempting to start the engine vibrates/shimmys like crazy. Thought it was the timing chain...checked it and it looks good.

    Update: Installed new fuel filter still won't start.

    Observed another thing when attempting to start: When Key is in On Position Gas guage shows full and when attempting to start (turning engine over) the gas gauge shows empty.
    Is this the on-board computer giving a hint or code as to what's wrong?
  • pgurganuspgurganus Posts: 12
    i have a 2000 blazer.when i give it gas slowley it accerates fine till about half way of the pedal then it will lack on power and sputter. when i punch it it just sputters and dont want to go. today my wife and i went out in it and barley made it home it was like it had no power at all changed 2months ago cap roter wires pulgs fuel fliter ran injector cleaner in it still same service engine light is on.if that helps.also took out all 3 o2 synsors and tried it same thing. can some one please help me
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    I would doubt a clogged exhaust system
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Just saw some info on the defrost problem - if the controls have lost vacuum they default to defrost so look under your hood on the drivers side and see if the vac hose 5/32" is rotted/broken. It feeds off the intake to a T and to a reservior in the fender and I have had to replace all these lines on my newer models also. You can get your hand to the reservior hose with a few trys, really. That plastic line that Ts off should go to the heater controls so if the lines under the hood don't solve it you will have to get to the back of the heater conrols and make sure the line is plugged in. Let us know if that works.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Check the fuel pressure at the rail test port. Key on engine off should be 60psi. When you turn the key on (not try to start can you hear the pump running?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Fuel filter change (under inside frame rail under drivers seat area). Is the air filter clean. Clean the MAF sensor above the filter with spray MAF cleaner or brake (not carb cleaner and be careful don't break a wire on them). Then fuel pressure test as posted many times above. Then I would get it to a shop and put it on an analyzer/scope and look at the ignition circuit/firing pattern and rule that all out first - yes bad plugs/cap/rotor/wires - can happen. Or a sensor failing but should get a code then. Report the fix for others or can feed you more to look at.
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