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we also get heat coming out from the floor vent with the a/c and heat off. is this from the climate control or heater core? there was another post with gurgling and i wasn't sure if the issues are related? we are planning to replace the digital dash, so it would be a good time for the heater core anyways...
thxs for any help
Believe the older model have a heater control valve in the line in the engine compartment that may be frozen on allowing hot coolant to always circulate (nwer models do not have this - always flows).
thxs..
Vehicle stopped running while moving down highway. Attempted to restart and will not. Battery just replaced. When attempting to start the engine vibrates/shimmys like crazy. Thought it was the timing chain...checked it and it looks good.
Update: Installed new fuel filter still won't start.
Observed another thing when attempting to start: When Key is in On Position Gas guage shows full and when attempting to start (turning engine over) the gas gauge shows empty.
Is this the on-board computer giving a hint or code as to what's wrong?
"The ECM operates the fuel pump relay for three seconds or so when the key is turned to run. Then, as long as the ECM is receiving a signal from the crank sensor that the engine is cranking over, it will continue to operate the fuel pump relay.
There is another system to power the fuel pump directly, once the engine starts, and that is an oil pressure switch. As long as there is at least 4 PSI of oil pressure, that switch will send power to the fuel pump, weather the ECM operates the relay or not."
This all means the crank sensor could be bad or wires/connector bad(front of engine below the timing cover look from underneath) or oil pressure sending unit/wires(located in the back of the engine by the dist) may be bad or when you start this is there oil pressure on the gauge?? No pressure and its doing what it should - shut down. Let us know if you get this one fixed.
"2 versions on 95. If your ECM is under the hood on top of the coolant recovery tank (1st revision ODBII), then no, you cannot time it(ECM handles timing). If your ECM is under the dash then disconnect the brown or tan wire behind the passenger side carpet on the firewall to disconnect the distributor from the ECM, set to 0 degrees TDC, look at the crank pully, you will see 2 grooved marks on it. Use the one on the left to time with. When complete, reconnect the brown or tan wire behind the passenger side carpet".
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All power goes thru the transfer case even the rear wheel only or 2HI, The case engages 4LO gear by an encoder motor. For 4HI (and all 4wd modes) an axle coupler on the pass side engages or locks the axle (look under and see the cable and sensor on the front diff). The front diff is open or has no posi unit so only the wheel with the least traction drives - same with rear unless you have the G80 option (look in glove box). If you have the 4th button "Auto" then the trasfer case has a posi type clutch pack unit in it that allows driving on pavement in any condition - it can slip or allow diff front rear wheel speeds. Front drive shaft always turns too for all 98up models for shift on the fly. Try a hard start on a loose dirt road and have someone watch the front tires for spin - one should at least.
Any suggestions?
Now to my problem. Long story short, 2000 blazer stalled out and would not restart. Engine really struggled to run at all before it died. Then would not start. Got it home and had it running by putting gas in the intake. Then would start on its own and ideal but dies when in drive and the gas pedal is touched. I changed the fuel filter, checked the fuel pressure, changed the fuel pressure regulator, MAP and TPS. All of this with no service engine light. After all that it popped on. Got a reader and it stated intermittent crankshaft sensor P0339. So I switched the sensor. No luck. I am going to check the voltage into the sensor to check the wiring but other than that I have no idea. Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
Eric
You have the 5.7 with throttle body injectors I believe - correct (looks like a carb or throttle body with the small injectors sitting on top of it with wires feeding it)so would guess its the idle air control valve on the throttle body but been awhile since working on these. AC on ups the rpms thats why it helps. Check the online auto store on this part.
Thanks in advance.
In the morning sometimes when I try to start my truck, sometime I get nothing. Nada, zip. No lights, no radio, nothing. It is almost like the battery doesn't exist. I check my cables for tightness and low and behold the little engine compartment light comes on and and tada! everything is fine. Then there are the times it starts but it will not run. It is almost like it is flooding itself out. Drop it into Drive and it stalls. So I shut it off, give it a few seconds and insert the key and start it and hold it over a brief second and it runs great.
I have also noticed that my instrument lights flicker at night when my lights come on. I turn the lights off and they stop. Bad rheostat switch? That is an easy fix. . .
Would absolutely love to know if you have any ideas on this. Thanks. . . . .