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Comments
Help?
I'll act on your advice and check it out, though I have my doubts because the trouble began when I changed the positive battery terminal, like the other guy. I wonder if messing with the battery somehow screws up the blend motor, from some GM design flaw. Either way, I'll be messing with it until it's fixed.
Thanks again. For the record, I own a 98 Jimmy, 115K easy miles.
Also grabbed this from OBD-codes site, may help.
"Symptoms may include:
the engine may be harder to start
the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
other symptoms may also be present
Causes a code P0304 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plug or wire
Faulty coil (pack)
Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
Faulty fuel injector
Burned exhaust valve
Faulty catalytic converter(s)
Running out of fuel
Poor compression
Defective computer
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coil. In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors."
"Here is the low down on the recalibrating.
But every year is a little different.
The 98 and 2000 recaibrating does the recailbrating a little different. But you remove the RDO/BATT 15 amp fuse for a minute. Then put it back in and turn ign on.
On a 2000 the air tempterature valve sensor and mpotor will cycle the air mix door threw full hot and full cold positions. On the 98 pull same fiuse and install and turn key on. Then the electronic actuator should cycle the air mix door threw the hot and cold positions."
See if that works and post back on results so others can know! Spread the info cause GM won't.
Could this be a problem with the speed sensor? If yes, where is it located, what does it look like, and how do I fix it?
Thanks in advance!
Each front wheel hub has a speed sensor and then one in the transfer case for the rears. The front sensors sense as square cogs/gears go by - you can unbolt the 2 sensor torx head bolts and see the cogs and check if all there and also see if the sensor wire is intact and a connector about 2' up on the frame (for replacing the sensor that comes with the wire pigtail). The no speedo seems to point more toward electrical and 97 is known for a faulty ignition module in the steering column (not the key/tumbler) and many posts on it and it causes many strange problems - most power goes thru it or is activated thru it.
Nothing changed, unfortunately. I tried the RDO/BATT fuse a few times, and then I moved on to other fuses in hopes that something would reset or cycle. I've tried everything but the ECM fuses, which I'll pull and replace tonight.
The monkeying did confirm that the A/C works, apparently, because it blows cold air until the engine warms up. Then it becomes a blast furnace inside.
Does anyone know where the blend motor is buried in the heater box? I see that there's a "cut here for service" knockout on top of the heater box, under the hood. I thought maybe I could rig the blend door with a coathanger or something--anything to avoid tearing the whole vehicle apart while it's 100 degrees outside, not to mention the cost.
I check the main things then off to the AC shop which has the correct gauges and tools. Most compressors go around 80-100k if that long - some do better but not in hot climates.
Thanks again.
http://www.discountautoparts.com/item.wws?sku=D579&mfr=ACDELCO%20US&weight=1&coo- kieID=1V7010TXT1V701318U&clientid=discountautoparts
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=GPS&mfrpartnumber=S193&pa- rttype=410&ptset=A
There was a post recently on replacing but heres some more info: Access panels are 7mm and T25 torx and the top steering wheel cover E6 series Torx fasteners but std 1/4 drive 3/32socket works.
I was having trouble replacing the ignition module. Everything was removed except a stubborn wire connector above the key switch. Is there a special locking connector? I took a break and was scoping out the transmission speed sensor when I noticed the broken vacuum line by the exhaust headers. I spliced in a new piece of vacuum line, reconnected the original ignition switch module and took it for a test drive. Speedo is working, shifts fine and no ABS light. In fact, it had been running sluggish before and now it seems peppier...but maybe I'm just happy that it's running again.
Now I just need to reassemble the steering column & lower dash!
Found this on the white connector:
"For the small white connector from the top of the metal, key tumbler, rotate the switch towards the passenger seat to remove. This gets the small wires out of the way so you can get to the upper left fastener. Uses reverse Torx fasteners E series to hold the switch in."
Sealed 1 piece hubs are most likely the reason - jack the front end up and spin them - if you hear or feel any grating/grinding thats it. 4wd need to jack up under the
lower control arm so the CV axle will rotate so be careful and it requires a good floorjack.
Please help, Magnus, Sweden.
Any advice is much appreciated.