Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

tidester · February 2002

I am glad I was here to witness your biennial appearance! Why don't you drop by a little more often!

tidester
Host
SUVs

kstateal · February 2002

My dad's 1999 Blazer driver's seat fell all the way back into the rear seat. After the dealer pulled it out and looked at it, they stated the frame of the seat had broken in half. The frame cannot be repaired and a new one has to be ordered. Has anyone experience this type of problem? Do anyone know an alternative place to order or buy the seat frame instead of the dealer? We have tried the salvage yards here in Kansas City, but they do not appear to have enough vehicles for the correct type of seat frames we need for motorized/heated seats.

poisondartfrog · February 2002

Get the GM P/N from the dealer and check out http://www.gmpartsdirect.com

It's a dealer (Flow Chevrolet) who discounts through the Internet on GM parts.

Good luck.

tgregory3 · February 2002

My 99 Chevy Blazer has a 4 button 4x4 to 2x4 shifter on the dash. When I tried to go to 4x4 the button light just blinked but never stayed solid to change to 4x4. I went to the dealer and he said the transfer case control module was bad and it would cost about $445. to repair.
I got a second opinion at another shop and they found a unplugged small cable leading into the front transaxle...he pushed the cable back in and now it shifts fine into 4x4 and back to 2x4. My module and switch are good just the cable was pulled out..and the dealer was not correct in his diagnosis.

zr2rando · February 2002

Sounds like your first dealer either didn't even do basic check or was trying to scam you. Glad you went to the second shop.
It's good to hear a low/no cost repair happens sometimes huh?
see y'all
Rando

leary2 · February 2002

I have been thinking of trading in My Acura 1.6el
(Model only available here in Canada) on a 2001 Blazer.
After reading some of the town hall messages am not too sure now.
Does anyone have anything good to say about this vehicle?

rangerron7 · February 2002

If you are accustomed to Acura reliability, I doubt that the Blazer and Chevy's apathetic service experience will be a welcome change for you. Just one man's opinion ,but YMMV.
Ron

cliffwilson · February 2002

As a reader of this site, I, too, sometimes wonder if anyone has a good word for the Blazer. I purchased a new 2000 Blazer 16 months ago. I have been pleased with it and have had no mechanical problems. One must approach the automobile with the understanding that there is no perfect vehicle. Since I'm retired and hold ASE certifications in brake systems and electrical systems, I have examined my Blazer from stem to stern. Likewise, I purchased the service manual (a 3 volume set) to acquaint myself with the specific engineering of the Blazer. The 4.3 liter V-6 is a traditional Chevy cast iron small block. It is a proven workhorse. Mechanically, it's a 90 degree "350" chopped to six cylinders. It's cast iron heads, roller lifters, roller rockers, and roller timing chain are designed for long wear. It's computer control is entirely contemporary with all the expected sensors and actuators. While its suspension is traditional by today's standards, it is not an indictment of its worthiness. Although you don't have variable cam timing, I have yet to find another engine in its class that hits you with 250 ft. lbs. of torque at 2800 RPM. That's pretty good punch. Typically, the V-6 engine is not well balanced. However, Chevy has splayed the crankshaft on the 4.3 liter to provide even spark firing and has incorporated an internal balance shaft to counter crankshaft vibration. The result, in my opinion, is a smooth running V-6. Nonetheless, without proper maintenance, any auto will prove to be a poor performer in the long run. The Blazer is no different. My suggestions - flush the brake fluid annually. The valves in the ABS system don't tolerate corrosion. Fresh brake fluid is the easiest and cheapest way to assure water absorption by the brake fluid is not creating problems. Change the oil and oil filter religiously. Oil is not only a lubricant but also plays a critical role in dissipation of combustion heat. Oil doesn't work well when its holding contaminants in suspension. Lubricate all steering linkage and ball joints regularly. The Blazer still has grease fittings. Check tire pressure often and rotate the tires every 5,000 miles. Finally, drain and replace the coolant every two years. I'm not a believer in keeping the extended coolant in the system for 5 years.

spoom · February 2002

When it is running, it is a very comfortable little truck with better manners in snow than the 4 Toyota 4x4s I had before I got the Jimmy. I wouldn't buy another Jimmy like it however. I agree in principle with what cliffwilson says about maintaining a vehicle (I'm a journeyman mechanic) but that won't overcome poor design and customer service. My truck was meticulously maintained. The joints were properly lubed, as were my Toyotas. What maintenance would anyone suggest to us owners with the intermittant windshield wipers and gas guages? The spline shaft breakage in the trannys? The o2 sensors failing early from water infiltration? The oil cooler lines failing 2-3 times on the same vehicle? The serpentine belt tensioners singing like crickets at 30k miles? As vehicles go, this is a poor bet for a used purchase. Based on GM's attitude and having the same problems model year after model year I couldn't imagine trying another.
¿spoom

zr2rando · February 2002

But when I bought mine new (95 4x4) there was a significant price difference in that vehicle and the comparable import,,,Nissan/Toyota...
The cost difference was worth having the extra repairs that may come up, and most repairs on the Chevy are still cheaper (especially part price and probably quality is reflected by that price sometimes too)...
Maintenance is needed on all vehicles and makes a huge difference over a long lifetime of a vehicle.
Many people have had problems on them, but don't think the more expensive vehicles are problem free either..
probably works out over the long run, pay less up front for the new vehicle, pay for more repairs over the years, eventually probably evens out..
Drive whatever vehicles you are interested in and compare the direct competitors, but for used vehicles---you always take a chance on somebody's problem that they are possibly unloading because of something they KNOW about,,,maybe overheated or ran on low oil for a while..something that may show up later.
Good luck.
I have had a few repairs on mine, including a new engine at 107k (dealer said engine looked like brand new, obviously well maintained, but still spun a cam bearing and got metal in the system..
With the new engine now, it is just like new, I still like the vehicle ...I just ate up that difference in initial cost though...I'm not selling it anytime soon

spoom · February 2002

I used that logic to convince myself to try the GMC. In the real world the expense of constant repairs was way more than the money difference. There was the time involved getting it fixed, bumming rides, plans changed at the last minute, and the fact that I still can't ever turn the key without wondering if I will get where I'm going. As for the initial cost difference, don't forget to look at the higher % of that price you get back at trade in time. Look in a newspaper or this site to compare used car prices on similar GMCs and Toys. I know they aren't all junk (Jimmys) but as bad as I got burned I'd be nuts to try another one. I wouldn't be so firm on this if they had stood behind it, now I wish they'd stand in front of it.
¿spoom

terri32724 · February 2002

Have a 1998 GMC Jimmy 2 wheel drive. Wondering if anyone else has had problems with the front wheel bearings. Jimmy has 65,000 miles and understand the wheel bearings should last for life of vehicle. Took into mechanic to find out why the vehicle was making noise in front end and was told that it was the front wheel bearing. It is a closed unit and whole thing must be replaced. Does anyone know if this is normal?, or, if there has been a recall on the front wheel bearing?

maze1 · February 2002

I have a 97 w/4.3l it knocks like a bunch of marbles when you leave a stop light its raddles ,knocks untill you get to 35 mph and you cant hear it any more only does it when its warm..I tryed premun gas no help .no eng codes set,and no timing adj for this eng pre set per the factory. only under load. no knock at idle or rev up.any ideas??? im at a loss

Let · February 2002

I plan to buy 2002 Blazer 4-Door 2WD LS. Please let me know your opinions about this SUV. Thanks

dshepherd3 · February 2002

These are typical egr valve symptoms, sounds like yours is inop or carboned up, seems common on these trucks, the knock sensor should also be checked if so equipped.

moff3206 · February 2002

We just bought a 2001 4x4 LT Blazer 25k miles ($18k), a good deal I think. Well, we have had it for 3 days now and when we drive between 70-75+ mph it vibrates from the front I think. The dealer sent me to their tire place to have them balanced and a sneaked in an alignment and it still does it. It has Eagle custom wheels and generic tires, I am a hypocondriac when it comes to cars. Is this a problem that can be fixed? Have to wait until Monday to talk to the service dept. at the dealer. Thank God for the factory warranty.

moff3206 · February 2002

Also, is there a way to have the doors lock automatically when put in drive? No owners manual.
Thanks

maze1 · February 2002

thanks dave..I took off the linear egr valve today to clean Its not really dirty.cleaned what was there and new gasket.I guess Im going to have to buy one one those autoxray units to check if its working also if it even has a knock sensor.Thanks again

tommc · February 2002

The two wheel drives use standard bearings. Nothing special. The outer bearings do have plastic separators and aren't the strongest thing around. Pretty easy replacement and a relube is probably overdue anyway.

jldunc · February 2002

I've got a 1995 Blazer (4wd, 6 cyl, 4.3 L). I had it looked at a few months ago because the check engine light came on and it was chugging when it was idling. It came up on the computer, EGR valve, so I had it looked at. A mechanic tried to get me to spend $500 to get it replaced. I took it to another guy and said the EGR valve was new and that there wasn't anything wrong he could find. He said that it was possibly carbon build up that would burn away. Well, it has been running great, no problems at all. Late last week, I couldn't get it to start, but finally did. Made it to work and back, but on the way back, it was idling horribly and very loudly. It stalled on me twice, and I finally got it home. It still had problems starting the next morning, and the day after that, but it would finally start, but idle really loudly. The whole truck would shake pretty bad unless I let up on the break and let it role a little bit. It still idles bad and has problems starting, but once I give it gas, it chugs a little, but then is fine. It drives fine, no problems. Just when I stop or have to start, it almost stalls or idles real loud. It almost feels like there is no gas getting through, or maybe just a little bit of gas getting through when it just sits there running. If anyone knows anything about this problem or anything that could get me pointed in the right direction, I'd be really grateful. I want to say there is a clogged valve or something, because it seems like it needs more gas when just sitting there. Maybe a faulty fuel injector or something else is clogged. Any help would be great. E-mail me at jldunc@hotmail.com or reply back. Thanks!

tommc · February 2002

Sure sounds like a fuel pump going bad, real common at anything over 80K miles. There is a test valve on the fuel injector lines that will allow an easy pressure check for this. Those EGR valves are noted for getting carbonned up pretty quick, and they are expensive to replace. Not hard to clean though.

ray80 · February 2002

For EGR carbon troubles check this:

http://www.alldata.com/techtips/1999/19990809c.html

rangerron7 · February 2002

The symptoms you describe are identical to the problems I had with my 95. The mechanic claimed the fuel pump was going bad and not developing adequate pressure. He said I was looking at a $300 repair. That's when I finally got rid of it.

firecadet613 · February 2002

Today I am taking my 95 LT in for its Oil Cooling Lines to be replaced again, for the fifth time. Last time they just burst while I was driving down the road. I had to get a new Crankshaft and bearings because of that. They are just leaking this time, hopefully they do not burst on the way to the dealership. Has this happened to anyone else? Any response from GM? Is GM listening??

Joe

bieraugel · February 2002

To:firecadet613

I recently replaced my oil cooler lines for the second time in 18 months. I can feel your pain since mine weren't covered under warranty the second time around. I sent an angry e-mail message off to G.M. customer service: cac@chevrolet.com to the attention of:
Kristie Hardcastle
Customer Relationship Manager
GM Internet Response Center
In my letter I explained the circumstances and wanted to know what they were going to do for me. I just received my check from G.M. as reimbursement for this problem. Believe me, they know the problem that they have with this piece of JUNK...

Good luck in your attempt.
Let me know what transpires.

firecadet613 · February 2002

Could you please send me an email at 613@firehousemail.com I would like some more information on the oil cooler line complaint that you sent and what transpired. How many miles were on your truck when the went both times?

Thanks!

Joe

cliffwilson · February 2002

From your write-up, I sense you no longer experience a "check engine" light condition. The malfunction indicator light (MIL) should appear if there is a stuck open or inadequately closed EGR valve. If you assume your EGR is operating adequately, the symptoms you describe suggest unmetered fuel leaking into a cylinder. While the fuel pressure produced by the fuel pump should be checked, it's not likely a defective fuel pump would give you the good performance you note at cruising speeds. However, a leaky fuel injector or fuel poppet valve will leave a residue of unatomized gas in the cylinder chamber. That means there is an overly rich fuel condition that will create hard starts and uneven idle. Likewise, the rich condition will present hesitation in acceleration because too much unmetered fuel is entering the cylinder. I believe the 1995 Blazer has the central port injection system with a series of poppet valves controlling fuel delivery to the individual cylinders. Therefore, the potential problem could be a leaky fuel poppet valve. As I recall, the central fuel meter pressurizes all the fuel lines leading to the six poppet valves simultaneously. If one of the poppet valves is defective, it will not close properly and permits raw fuel to seep into the cylinder chamber. I know new models of the Blazer use a sequential centeral port injection system. There are a series of individual injectors sequentially supplying fuel to the poppet valves. I suggest you check the consistency of the oil on your dipstick. If there is any evidence of dilution by fuel, it is an indicator of fuel leaking into the cylinder chamber. At any rate, another thought.

ottawaguy · February 2002

Some advice requested if y'all are so inclined.

I am trying to decide whether to save a lot of $$ and spring for a 2002 Blazer/Jimmy, or spend more to get the "upgrade" of a new TrailBlazer.

I have tested both, and although the new trucks are bigger, a little more powerful, and ride a bit better, they seem too big for my needs, and are first year vehicles.

On top of 1st year problems, I also am wary of the unproven engine. I don't think it matters that its been engineered to death. Its still new.

The 4300 Vortec really appeals to me.

I also notice, from perusing the TB/Envoy/Bravade thread that they are no more exempt from production quality issues than their predecessors are.

So - if the Blazer/Jimmy suits my needs, but may give me some of the cronic problems (like oil line, etc...) you folks have been experiencing, is the "upgrade" worth the investment, in your opinions?

Thanks!

firecadet613 · February 2002

I've got a 95 Blazer LT right now. I love it, it's great, except the little problemed oil cooling lines. I would have gotten a Trailblazer LT had I been able to afford the extra 200/month at the time. You probably can pick up a 2001 LT for a little under 20,000 and you should be fine, if your looking at a Trailblazer it'll be around 30,000. Its up to how much you want to spend, Trailblazer is a little bigger though.

firecadet613 · February 2002

Thankfully my lines were not leaking. It was just residue oil from when they burst that was dripping. I cleaned it as best I could after they burst with brake clean/engine degreaser but did not spray the lines as I do not want them to become damaged. The dealership did clean them up nicely for me.

Joe

abc246 · February 2002

Neither!! I have a 99 4dr LS Blazer. To make a long story short it is just poor quality. The interior has a lot of cheap plastic that rattles. I have had a lot of warranty work done too.

I have tried to compare these two also and this what I came up with. I also think the Trailblazer is too big. Have you seen the new Saturn SUV?

Acceleration - It is basically a draw. The 4.3 V-6 makes max torque at lower rpms and max horsepower at much lower rpms. The Trailblazer weighs more, but has more hp. This sums up to the Blazer being faster off the line and the Trailblazer faster at passing.

Fuel economy - The Blazer wins. It weighs less and seems to get at least 2.5 mpg more from what I have been reading on here. This would keep me from buying the Trailblazer.

Brakes - Both are great.

Interior - Trailblazer wins- hands down. The Blazer has a nice gauge package and radio, but thats it.

Crash safety - Trailblazer wins - by far! Blazer has a very weak frame and almost bends in two during offset crash!

Reliability - Both are no Toyota or Nissan. Typical GM - Some great, some good, some bad.

mreefer · February 2002

I used to have a 92 and a 94 Blazer. I can't remember however, did the older downsized
Blazers have air bags?

dshepherd3 · March 2002

no SIR on those trucks

zr2rando · March 2002

The 95 Blazers have a fuel regulator inside the intake manifold that is a definite problem with that year model. They start leaking inside that manifold and it puts extra fuel inside the air intake and then you have uncontrolled fuel mixture going into all the cylinders. Any Chev dealer should know all about it...sounds exactly like your problem and it happens at the mileage that you have. I had to change mine at about 100k. Sorry bubba, looks like your turn at the bat for this repair.

buzzard4 · March 2002

I have a 97 Blazer LS, and it's closing in on 100k miles. It looks like I've been pretty lucky overall compared to many of the posts on this board. I had a few problems that were fixed under warranty (gas gauge, rear washer fluid line), and a rear brake problem, but other than that it's been pretty trouble free. The engine runs fine, doesn't burn any oil, about 20-22 mpg, and the interior looks like new (which admittedly wasn't overly attractive to begin with). I've made the decision to stick it out with this vehicle for at least a few years, so I'm going to spring for some major maintenance. I figure for less than the price of a down payment, I should be able to get a pretty thorough work-over. Other than the recommended stuff (belt, plugs, coolant, transmission service, PCV valve, fuel filter), any ideas on other items that have a tendency to go on that model? I haven't had any trouble with the oil lines, but are they something that would benefit from a pre-emptive replacement, or should I wait until I see symptoms? Thanks for any input.

phantom7 · March 2002

I have a 97 Blazer 2WD that has a repair history that is longer than a rap sheet. I have taken it in several times to have the dealer diagnose why the engine idles rough. When it warms up the rough idle is more pronounced. The dealer has indicated this is "NORMAL". This Blazer used to run really smooth but I am resigned to the fact that GM doesn't want to thoroughly investigate and correct this problem. They say that it has been scoped and it's "NORMAL"(multiple dealerships have looked it over). After the problems I have encountered with this vehicle, (I could write a novel), and GM's poor customer service, I would not recommend one of these SUV's to my enemy! I was a longtime Chevy customer but no more. It's a crap shoot whether you get a good or a bad vehicle any more and I won't take a chance on it ever again.

nosirrahg · March 2002

I'm in the process of looking for an older (late '80s through mid-'90s) 4WD Blazer/Jimmy to replace my '82 F350 as my weekend knock-around vehicle. I like the Ford, but it is neither 4WD nor an extended cab, and I'd like to have something I could rely on in snowy weather to get me to work and back, and that would hold the entire family of 4 if necessary (and getting better than 10MPG would help also!).

Two questions - is/are there any particular models/years to avoid/seek, and if also looking at something like a similarly aged Jeep Cherokee, would you recommend the GM product over the Jeep?

I relize this is a Blazer/Jimmy forum, but I scanned through many of the older posts here, and there seem to be ample complaints about quality, which don't seem as prevalent in the Jeep forum (granted, the title of this forum does include the word "problems"). Plus the Jeep didn't change much visually from beginning to end, so an older model wouldn't look quite as dated as a similarly aged GM.

I'll probably be looking at something with 100K+ miles (trying to spend as little $$ as possible, as this is a secondary vehicle), so if there are any critical maintainence issues to check on these vehicles at this age (like timing belts and such), I'd appreciate any input there as well.

Thanks in advance for whatever assistance you can provide!

abc246 · March 2002

The engine and transmission are very good and used in many other GM applications so parts should be as cheap as they get. ABS was not standard on the Jeep so I guess I would buy the Blazer if I could not find a Jeep with ABS.

I just had my water pump go on my 99 Blazer with 63k miles! Is this normal? I changed the antifreeze a month ago and may not have mixed enough water- but doubt that would have done it. Is the water pump a weak link on the 4.3 V-6?

tommc · March 2002

Looking at one with over 100K miles will find you a pretty good deal overall. Tried and true and all that, the trans and engines are usually good for 200K with routine maintenance. Maybe dime you to death with the minor stuff, ball joints, EFI/EGR repairs, fuel pump, gauges, radiators, AC, etc. Maybe the most reliable machine available at that stage though. The Jeep Cherokee Sports are pretty low tech, also reliable, and pretty solid from what I see and hear. Hard to choose between the two, look for the best maintained and priced I guess.

mckeownsc · March 2002

Does anyone know how to reset the computer in a 93 s-10 blazer. There was some work done to it that made it run a little rough and i was told to try to reset the computer but dont know how to.

Thanks in advance

abc246 · March 2002

I am not sure you have to reset it. The computer resets when you disconnect the battery. After a reset the computer must learn. The learning curve takes time. There are procedures to make the computer learn faster, I think. Driving it will get it back to normal too- it will just take longer.

leebea · March 2002

My '94 S-10 Blazer has been pretty good. It has 72K miles and is starting to have little problems. My windshield wipers do their own thing for speed sometimes. They will be going at set speed, then take off for a few wipes, then go back to set speed. Also, my temperature gage quit working a few months ago. Dealer can't give me any idea how much to repair so I just hope belts/hoses stay intact.
Lee B.

tommc · March 2002

Sending unit on passenger side head, between the front and second cylinder exhaust outlets. Look for connector with one green wire. Might disconnect and put it back on, maybe clean the connection. Try to ground the wire and watch for gauge movement. Might need a new sensor, not a big job. Might need a new dealer seems like.

poisondartfrog · April 2002

I have read many problem descriptions in the Customer Complaints section of NHTSA and this Town Hall forum about flickering dome lights and inoperative Power Seat/Locks.

Well, it happened on my '97 Bravada during a recent Easter weekend road trip. I got the flickering dome light... odd. Then I tried to move my seat sometime later . Found out locks were also inop. Went to check the circuit breaker in the fuse box at the left end of the dash . Took it to a dealer in the town I visited, spent two hours and found nothing. Research on the Internet finally pointed to a problem area - lumbar seat wire harness. Over time, the poor quality control at GM allows this harness to chafe from contact with the seat frame. Took it to my local dealer with the suggestion to look at the lumbar harness .

The driver's seat and the motor need to be removed to get at this harness, a 4 hour job, and $339.00 lighter in the wallet. Thanks alot GM!

May also happen to the passenger side, too.

youbetcha22 · April 2002

In reading some of the previous posts, I decided to check my coolant overflow tank and it looks very murky/chunky. Does it just need a flush and fill or are there bigger problems to address? I also have a strange gurgling noise when first starting the car; it comes from the cupholder/armrest area. It sounds like there's liquid trapped somewhere. Anybody have this problem or have any educated guesses? I'm getting ready to sell and I don't want to screw anybody with a serious problem.

Thanks!

dcjones · April 2002

I have a 2000 Blazer w/ 24K on the ticker and I have several problem with mine.

When I select 4WD HI or Auto 4WD the indicator lights blinked for a while then nothing happened. I could only get it to go into 2WD LO and 4WD HI. The dealer replaced the 4WD swtich and this seems to have fixed the problem.

Interior pieces either falling off or breaking.

The delay wipers have never worked. The delay setting will work for a while then the wipers will run continuously. I had it at the dealer several times but they can never fix it. The "pulse modulator" as been replaces twice with no improvement. Now the dealer is going to replace the wiper motor.

I have the automatic headlights and sometimes at night I will see the light flicker off briefly, interior lights included. I just got it back from the dealer for this and they say they fixed it but the would not indicate what the did. I have not noticed the problem since I got it back the other day. Hopefully it is fixed.

There is a low pitch rumble inside the Blazer at idle speed with the vehicle in park or in drive with my foot on the brake. It can not be heard outside the vehicle. The engine does not run rough it runs really smooth. Once the engine speed goes past 600rpm the rumble goes away. I had it at the dealer twice for this. The dealer says they are waiting on an exhause part that will fix this. They said there is a TSB on itbut I could not find one www.alldata.com and I think it is funny the dealer could not fix it the first time if there was a TSB.

The engine leaks oil. All around the oil pan bolts and drain plug. There are beads of oil on the bolt heads and sludge/seapage covering the oil pan. The dealer told me I tighten the drain plug and that is causing the leak at the drain plug. Whatever!?!? I don't torque down on the plug. When the plug meets the oil pan I stop and ensure it is snug. I use an open end wrench vs. a ratchet. I have been working on my cars for over 10 years and I have never had this problem before.

The vehicle has never been in an accident but the tail lights filled up with water. This was fixed by the dealer.

Now I get a recall notice for the brake and hazard lights.

I think I have had too many problems for a body style that has been around since the mid 90s and a drive train that has been aroung even longer.

jjocjjoc · April 2002

Just curious how often folks usually replace shocks? My 96 has 75k miles and is a little too bouncy and shifty.
LIke to get some shocks that have a firmer ride.
Any suggestions? or are most SUV/Light Truck shocks the same?
Thanks.

ryanbab · April 2002

bilstein

uncleal5252 · April 2002

I found a 94 Jimmy SLE 4x4, 65k, for $5,000. Is this a good deal??...it seems like it. Considering reading the board it seems that the majority of the problems with the Jimmy were the redesigned '95 model and after. Are there any serious reliability issues with the '94? Any help would be appreciated. This would be my secondary vehicle, since I have a 2000 Grand Prix GTP. I need your advice!!!!!

poisondartfrog · April 2002

jjocjjoc: I put Edelbrocks on my '97. Yes, they are a few more $$$, but the biggest improvement was better control over rough pavement (less jittery ride) and the ride felt firmer on the highway.

uncleal5252: One trouble-prone area on the '94 was the CPI unit. I believe it has something to do with the poppet valve?? Well, I know that by '97, GM re-design the fuel injection, and thus far I have not any problems with it, going on 62K miles.

Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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