Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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That would deprive everyone else of valuable information. If you keep the discussion here then all can learn and benefit.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
-mike
-mike
Does anyone have any suggestions besides running it off a cliff? Thanks!
If I may be so bold, it sounds like you have answered your own question.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
So two weeks after that stated my timing belt jumped and sheered off parts to the cam shaft. Two weeks and $2700 later I get the car back, it runs a little rough at times when I am at a stop light and the light starts blinking again when I hit 1,600 RPM’s. I take it back to have them look at it again and they find that it needs new spark plugs, the fuel system needs a cleaning and my intake manifold needs to be replaced. They tell me this might fix the problem but are not sure. After I had them clean the fuel system I picked it up and now the light is always on and blinks when I hit 1,200 RPM’s.
Has anyone out there had problems like this and if so what was it. I am looking to find out if it would be cheaper for me to get rid of this car before it starts costing more then it is worth. It is in good shape and I have taken care of it otherwise. Thanks for the help.
the rodeo runs great drives great ect but the cel comes on about 150 to 175 miles after getting reset,and will not go out on its own,it fails the obs test of the inspection,the tester says the obsII shows "not ready"so i cant get the car inspected and there for not road legal,i have read some post on here, this is what i have done,new gas cap,new spark plugs( i did put in bosch platuim +2,did so before reading of a possible problem with the wrong plugs??? not sure if its my year or not),the code read out was 0404 i think at autozone anyway it was supposed to be the gas cap ??but new cap was no help,as noted earlier the light allways comes on between 150 to 175 miles after restting.any help would be great car is great and runs great but i cant drive it as is legally
If it still doesn't fix it - try having a dealer performing the CEL light test - just make sure you bring it in when the light is on. It should keep a history of what the logs were when light goes off, but it often doesn't. Dealers, i think, use better readers than Autozone does so you might get better luck there.
1.) The front two (2) wheel wiggle in the first week after I purchase the car and the dealer could not find the cause of wiggle and I was told that maybe the tire is not balance. Finally, after I get outside mechanic, they found the front wheel is not aligned and balance.
2.) After a year the Gas light indicator Lit and my gas meter needle stop on quarter level: I was told by the dealer that I need to ensure and securely close the gas cap to prevent air from coming inside the gas tank and that will be okay after several days. – Then after long annoying waiting time, I bring the car to a mechanic again and found the coil of the float inside the tank is not functioning.
3.) After two and a half (2-1/2) years, while I am driving at the highway, my transmission explodes and loses transmission oil and I was stop in the middle of the highway. The dealers replace the transmission with the remanufactured one – because I was told that my car is already 3 years old and had mileage. So Okay as long as they keep my car running.
4.) Then all interior lights went out and the rear wiper does not function without any warning or indication, I do not know what the cause is; I just found one day it is not working anymore.
5.) Now, after 97,500 miles, I found my car eating engine oil and I fill up my engine one-quart of a gallon every week that cause me an additional of $12 – $15 every 3000 miles before schedule of my oil changes . Again I bring the car to the dealer and the dealer replaces the PC valve and removes carbon to some of the valve and change the oil. I was told that they need to test the engine every 500 miles of the 2000 miles to determine if the engine is really eating oil. After 500 miles I return the car to the dealer to measure the oil and found that oil level lowered by a quarter of the level stick. Again, I was told by the dealer that my car is in good condition and the oil consumption is normal. I was surprised to hear from the dealer that my car is in normal and good condition when my car is polluting the air and burns engine oil. This is ridiculous.
Does any one knows what to do to prevent the engine eating much oil? According to my dealer, Isuzu Manufacturer will not change engine if the consumption is just one quart of a gallon every 500 miles and that is considered normal. This is pathetic.
DO NOT BUY ISUZU RODEO UNLESS YOU WANT PROBLEM LIKE I HAVE
Please email any suggestion at ramos.art2000@gmail.com
-mike
The orginal problem is that it got stuck in second gear. Meaning that the stick is in neutral and when I let the clutch out it goes and I cannot shift into any other gears other than 5th and reverse but when I do this I cannot move.
So all of my bellhousing bolts are off and the transmission is loose but will not come off. I tried raising it and lowering in different positions but no luck. Also triple checked for any missed bolts. My guess is that it is still connected to the engine via 2nd gear. The only thing I can think to do at this point is mount the slave cylinder and have sombody push on the clutch. While I pull it out until it unlocks then remove the slave.
Any suggestions?
This car has been nothing but a lemon. A shame becuase I had a Rodeo years ago and it was a gen. :confuse: :mad:
Putting it back in was no picnic, either...the weight of the thing maxed out my jack. I ended up paying a local shop to do it!
Good luck!
That's good to know! Has anyone else had this experience?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Oh by the way,... we love our vehicle... has almost 200,000 miles on the engine and still going strong, well, yeah, there is the new perspiration problem...
any savvy mechanics out there that may have a solution would be greatly appreciated.
The only thing I would change is the process for folding down the rear seat - on mine I have to remove the headrests (and store them somewhere), pull up the bottom of the back seats, and fold down the back of the back seats - do this on both sides of the vehicle. Not a huge deal, but would be nice if you could push a lever and have both seats fold down with headrests that tuck under, as some other vehicles do.
All in all, I really do like my vehicle - it's the perfect size for me and I like the fact that it doesn't have a lot of unnecessary plastic parts on the exterior (scoops, flares, etc.).
does anyone have experience with this?
i have a maintenance manual for the 92 rodeo, but i would like to find better engine diagrams. does anyone know where i can get some? hopefully there are some online i could look at.
thanks
If you find something good, please let me know and we'll update the guide with it.
The electric door locks will not function as well. I think there is a broken wire in the rubber housing in the door jam. I just cant get to it to repair. Any idea's?? Do I need to remove the entire door(drivers side)??
Thanks for any help.
eqpassport, "Isuzu Rodeo" #1943, 26 Apr 2006 9:21 am
There are a couple dozen search hits but I didn't look at them very closely.
Oh yeah I forgot when you have your next tune up get the mech. to clean the combustion chamber and intake along with cleaning the pcv valve and relacing it. Also try getting the fuel system cleaned I think its like $110.00 at Firestone or $150.00 at the dealer My Mech said that that may help also. I am planning on getting these things done but I had to change the Timing Belt, Water Pump and some other thing yesterday so I am strapped for cash. But if I get it done first I will let you know how it goes. Also try buying Chevron gas the dealer said that they have the highest AKI(Anti-Knock Index) which is best for this car.
hope this helps
thanks
Thanks
My brake, fuel (gas) and battery lights are on, and the air conditioner / heater / fan won't work. My voltmeter shows 14 v and I had my alternator replaced (before it was showing only 10 v, which is why I had the alternator replaced). When I pull the charging relay, everything works fine. I replaced the relay with a new one, and all of the problems return.
Any ideas?
Any help would be appreciated.
regards
Jack
1. I have squeak from the left front tire area that increases with velocity. I am wondering if it could be related to the two torn CV Boots on that side.
2. How important is it to replace the CV Boots? While my truck was still state-side, a mechanic just packed the joints with grease. I had told him that I did not go into 4WD much. Down here I do more often.
BTW - My truck is unique here though I have seen an occasional Passport of the same model year. And there are lots of Isuzu pick-ups and truck cabs on the roads.