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"For uphill sections in deep snow, low range is good. However, keep in mind that with low range, you have over 2 times the amount of torque going to the wheels. This will make them easier to break free on slippery surfaces, and that may cause your vehicle to dig into the ground and get stuck. Just something to be aware of. Have fun in the snow! Wish there was some here..."
I'm not sure what you meant other than that you should keep rpms down for good traction. Did you mean something else/more? Isn't torque always higher the lower the gear? Did you mean I might be better off with 4Hi? I was going 15-20mph, though..isn't Lo better for that speed? I'm new to 4WD so I'm always looking for info. I'm not new to snow though...and I've gotten pretty good at handling a car in snow. Still, it was great to have that mucho extra traction when I needed it. What a difference.
Bummer, sorry to hear about the Pathy getting damaged.. and for a stupid reason at that! I hate when this stuff happens, you're just minding your own business...
Sort of like when you are sitting in your car in a parking lot, somebody pulls in, swings open their door, right into yours! And you are sitting in the car. And they don't even acknowledge that they dinged you!
I think the species needs to thin itself out a little quicker...
Thank you,
auto2000
The shut off lurch you notice is normal (in AUTO mode only). See my message 1699. It will also lurch if you move the vehicle, put it in park, and wait about 5 sec. with the engine running.
The SE Pathfinder has a step rail, and the LE, running boards, but both lack the plates which fasten to the wheel arches. The cost of SE bars is Cdn $800, while the LE boards are $900. I can get aftermarket boards installed for about Cdn $300, similar to the ones I had on my 95 Pathfinder.
Do any of you who have an SE or LE find the factory boards do an adequate job of keeping mud and road grime splatter off the rocker panels and side of the vehicle? Unless I find a substantive reason to stick with 'genuine' product, I will likely take the $300 route.
Thanks in advance
Woody
When:
Tues, March 13th (Tonight) at 6-7pm Pacific/9-10pm Eastern
Click on the link below to read more about/to enter the chat:
http://www.edmunds.com/chat/chiricochat031301.html
Drew
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Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
Has anyone replaced the factory antenna with a power antenna? Was it costly?
Thanks.
put the trans in park. Also I'm in the habet to apply the parking brake
then remove your foot from the brakes to make sure it hold and remove
any pressure that might be on the transmission parking paw. If you do this
you wiil never have any trouble getting it out of park and your trans
will love you for it. Older Fords had big problems with their paws,they
would brake off!! Cheers
you will here a slight knock. This is called the "knock limit",this is where the engine gets the greatest fuel benefit.I have clearly stated that here in Oregon the fuel quality is not controlled by the state and we have the worst fuel in the country. During the winter the fuel is blended with alcohol and other compounds like zylene,benzene to make more volatile,make your car start better in cold weather. This "premium" fuel sets in the tank at the gas station these high ends of the fuel disapates and with it goes the octane. If cost of the fuel was the only concern I would have 3 Fords in my driveway instead of 3 Nissans. I try to get the "freshest" and cleanest fuel possable. Maybe the P-fuel might be better next summer? 25 years of Nissans/800,000+mi. Cheers
Well, I picked up the Pathfinder from Port City Nissan in New Hampshire and put 1,500 miles on it in two days and will put 2,500 more miles on it in the next week returning to California. I checked mileage in the first 1,500 miles (5 tankfuls) and got the following: 18.92mpg, 19.1mpg, 19.34mpg, 18.7mpg and 17.25mpg. I was mostly on cruise control on I-95 at 70-82mph as speed limits/conditions allowed. The last tank was a night in Daytona Beach for Spring Break (worth the 2mpg hit!).
I'm changing the oil and filter tomorrow morning with a Nissan filter and 5w-30 Mobil 1. I'll pay close attention to any potential differences Mobil might make and let you guys know.
Captain Ron. . .
2001 LE, 4X4, Burnt Cherry, black leather, navigation...
I think 96+ pathfinders have timing chains instead of belts. My 99 has chain and the recommended interval for changing is 105,000 miles, just like yours. Chains would last much longer then belt and I don't know why your dealer recommend you to change yours. I think the service manager either trying to make some fast bucks or doesn't know what the heck he's talking about.
Take care
If you have read page 10-5 in the owners manual it says if under very high throttle
you will here a slight knock. This is called the "knock limit",this is where the engine gets the greatest fuel benefit.
This still is quite in line with what I stated. Follow this reasoning: If you put a more volatile fuel in your engine, would the perpensity to knock increase? If you answer yes, then follow my next point: Would the knock limit be reached sooner? If you answer yes, another point: So if the limit is sooner and then the engine is under greater load past that limit and can no longer retard the timing what happens? Ah! No more light knocking but severing knocking. The easiest work around this is to lift the throttle so the engine is no longer under that load. But by that time it is possible that damage has occurred.
Did I ever say or infer that the engine can magical sense the octane of the fuel? No, I did say that when a knock is sensed the timing is backed off. So the only way that an engine can know how far it can advance the timing (spark) is to advance and then wait for a knock (more than likely you will not hear this). Then using that same logic: An engine designed for premium fuel can start advancing the spark further (since it is designed for premium). All cars that >I< have come across that have been designed for premium fuel (sans European only models) can run on regular because of the range of timing retardation and advancement. But if these high compression motors don't need higher octane why should the manufacture request the higher octane? I guess if you are into conspiracies, then they are in cahoots with the oil companies.
I know that my racecar (a Nissan) can go from a base timing of as little as 10 deg. BTDC to as much as 90 deg. BTDC. The most I have seen under HARD acceleration is >76 deg. BTDC.
Octane vs. volitility: So you can add external fluids to gasoline to change its volitility. I guess I should have said gasolines without "volitility additives" added. For "summer" gasoline, the trend of higher octane yielding lower volitility still is true. (Although the dye in gasoline does change the volitility some what).
Look, like I said in my private email to you, I just wanted people to really know what they are doing. If they choose to use the lower octane and something >does< happen, then I don't want them to blame the manufacture but to be responsible for their actions.
I am done.
ps. does anyone know what Nismo means anyway? :-)
Toyota has TRD
Ford has SVT
etc...etc
ps-that 400R is a wicked car
I had a JWT Stage III Z32... that was a blast! 13.2 @ 107 in the quarter. I do love the way Nissan engineers their vehicles. This is way I will probably always be a Nissan owner...
nismofreak: Enjoying the ride...
:-)
I am living in Hotlanta, and thinking about buying the Pathfinder. I have wife, 2kids and 2 dogs, so no leather needed. And since Atlanta rarely see any snow, I am opting for the 2WD. I am trying to decide between the LE and the SE, here is that I found so far as the diffs:
LE: 10lbs heavier, the front AND rear head room is smaller than the SE, according to EDMUND's data!!!, I thought that they are the same vehicle?!!. LE has the Bose but I though SE also has the Bose. LE has the faked wood trim. LE has the fog light which is nice.
So should or why do I want to get the LE vs the SE? and pay about $1000 diff?
Thanks in advance.
htn.
The front and rear head room numbers may be different because the LE has sunroof standard while it is an option on the SE. It may be the same if the SE has the sunroof. I could be wrong, though.
Both LE and SE have Bose sound systems and the SE also has the fog lights.
I could have lived with the SE in our garage, but my wife preferred the LE. It's her ride, so she gets to choose.
My 95 was perhaps the most reliable vehicle I had, as I spent about $150 on parts, except for replacing the tires. At 100,000 km, I had the original muffler and brakes (the 5 speed transmission enabled downshifting on hills). My old vehicle fetched a good trade in value, so hope that my 2001 will be as good. I miss the beige pearl paint, the complete steel skid plate package, the one-touch security system, the 8 speaker stereo (4 speakers in the headliner, above cargo area, gave good audio presence), but mostly, the ability to unlatch the rear window from the console! The 2001 has other features, which may surpass the pluses of the 95. In only 750 km of mileage, I have reached the best fuel economy of 14.4 litres over a short 124 km highway trip, at 100 km. This translates into 24.3 miles per imperial gallon, using 91 octane fuel. I will need to average fuel economy over various conditions and tankfuls to derive more accurate results, but so far am pleased with the performance.
I empathise with you, but feel that our new units will serve us well. Good bye old beige
Thanks!
However, I was cautioned by my Service Mgr (who got it first hand from a Nissan tech training session) to wait until around 20,000 km (12,000 miles) before switching. This ensures proper wear-in/seating of important engine components. These new Nissan engines have fairly tight tolerances and a "real" break-in period which is longer than the one stated in the manual. Just a thought...
I concur with Crikey's comments.
Since they JUST got this truck, I know that they won't be paying to finance it while it sits on the lot. I am trying to figure out where to start my counteroffer. At invoice less $500 (give they have a 3% holdback)? I want this to be a decent experience, but I want to feel like I got a good deal, too!
What do you suggest - anyone?? My current car is a 1994 Altima SE, and I leased with a national deal and then bought, so this is my first "real" car purchase negotiation!
Thanks!
Karla
I'm just down the road from you in Rochester. You should have a good chance of getting most of that extra $500. You might as well start at that point or just a little lower. Of course you really want that exact truck , but don't let that show to them. Negotiate hard and don't let them intimidate you. And most of all when you make the deal don't let them add on any bogus charges to try to make up the difference!
But since you are so close here in MN, I have to ask if you have seen about all of us who have been going to Canada to save? For the Path you are looking at (SE, auto, leather, sunroof) I calculate list at $33,987 and dealer invoice at $30,819. In Canada you could get this same vehicle for about $26,900. And you get the All-Mode 4WD system and limited slip differential that you won't get here on the SE. If you have a couple days to go get it, you're looking at saving close to $4000. See the post at #2 above for some more info. I can get you much more for details and some good contacts if you are interested.
-Jon
jonlofquist@aol.com
I will take a look back at those postings, but if you have any specific advice - closest dealership for us, etc. please let me know!
I did figure that I was getting a pretty decent deal - I don't want to haggle too hard for an extra $50, but I think that the $500 "dealership profit" is probably 100% negotiable!
Thanks for your help!
Karla
I used to live in Manitoba, your neighbouring Canadian province to the north. I bought my 95 Pathfinder in Steinbach, Manitoba and used to travel to Minneapolis on occasion. You may find that Manitoba dealers are closer than Thunder Bay, Ontario. You can get information on locations and phone numbers for Canadian dealers from Nissan Canada <http://www.nissancanada.com>
Woody
Thanks for the great advice/responses!
Karla
Sounds like you might not be up for the Canada trip, but I'll clarify the numbers nevertheless. The price I mentioned includes the 2.5% duty. It is your net cost - about $4000 under US dealer invoice. Winnipeg's prices are better than Thunder Bay (I have a good contact in Winnipeg too). It's also about a 8hr drive home and there are cheapo fares there on NW. Speedo change is $250.
You are right you won't get the 3.9% though. And that may make the difference. You'll have no trouble crunching the numbers of course.
Fight hard at the dealer, but be careful of your backside if you mention Canada. They don't like that at all. Actually their usual first response is to claim it's not legal, or some other BS we all know is not true.
-Jon
Invoice $28,910
Options 2,161
Destination 540
Market assesment 500
Total $32,111 ($31,611 w/o mkt assessment)
Sticker $34,873 ($31,799+ $2,534 + $540)
Was confused about the market assesment which was added to the "invoice price", but this never really entered as an issue in the deal. Price paid was $31,711 ($100 over Edmunds invoice)minus the $500 rebate for a net cost of $31,211. Financed a good chunk at 3.9% for 60 months.
2001 LE AWD
MSRP Sticker $35,262
Leather, Limited Slip Differential, Floor Mats, Microfilter, Tow Hitch, Body Colored Side Moldings, and Sunroof Wind Deflector (i.e. all options except Nav and Ent).
Invoice Price: 28910
Option Invoice: 2466
Less Rebate: 500
Destination: 540
Less Dealer Holdback: 950
"Dealer Cost": 30466
Price Paid: $31050 !! ($366 below invoice less the 500 rebate and special financing). Others have done even better!
Good luck!
My new LE is due to arrive next week. I paid $29,500 + local tax and license fees. Can't wait for delivery!
Steve
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
accross?? Try again....You have a race car..I have an Oregon fuel company that
wants you to buy my fuel .20$ more per gal but so what...But you have to sign a
waver saying that if my Oregon fuel oggers out your fuel pump by the rust then
plugs up your fuel filters and injectors with the water and then burns holes in your pistons
then the valve heads burn off due to the lean mixture because the filter and injectors
are plugged...it is your falt because YOU put it in your race car. Then what??
I am not a race car driver. MY PF sets in the driveway during the week and it gets
driven about 50 miles or so on the weekends. I dought if I keep it much more than
a year. Or I might wait till the 2003 come out,they are going to change it then.
I am not impressed with the brakes they have been adjusted 4 times in 4K they
still don't work very well. I'm very bored with the morbid interior black,black and
more black. I can't take you up on the differental deal because,I just remembered,
that mine has growl and vibration comming from the rear diff from 10 mph to 30 mph
on uphill excelleration. It's better after I changed the lube to Amsoil syn. But it
still vibrates. Good luck on your race car. Need any Oregon P-fuel please let me
know. If you ever come up here please keep a spare fuel filter I have a spare ever
car.....I hope there's a screw driver.........Steve
base price SE$27,299 LE$29,299
Headroom SE has more if no sunroof else the same
Sunroof SE-Option($1,000) LE-Standard
Transmission SE-Manual($1,000 if Auto) LE-Auto
Rear deflector SE-Standard LE-None
Grille SE-Sports LE-Chrome
Bumper SE-Titanium LE-Body Color
SE-Step rails LE-Running board
Auto temperature LE-Standard
Homelink LE-Standard
Other than the Auto Transmission and Sunroof which are options in the SE (addl $2k), others are personal preferences.
Again, just 2WD no leather... for 4X4 there are more....Hope this helps
Actually, there are several other minor differences (like outside temp and compass) that are std on LE and options on the SE. To see all the differences, check the nissan site: www.nissandriven.com/frameset_pathfinder.html and click on 'specs', then choose 'all features'.
Going to Canada for a truck is now sounding like an adventure, and a really good chance to "bond" with my new vehicle once I get it! Can you give me the name of the dealer and their number, if possible, Jon? I am going to run the numbers again with your new info!
Thanks!
Karla