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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair



  • 4moneypit4moneypit Posts: 4
    edited January 2012
    Thank you -- think you're the first to catch the details. Unfortunately, small area, small state, no indies that do German. Dlr basically has monopoly. Given the relentless history & prospects, really want this out of ps' hair.
    While I know they're in diff "classes", it still seems telling on even "driver-maintenance" type repairs as opposed to what seem to be manufacturer quality/reliability repairs: so just sharing (& so much for Audi's high performance):

    New battery Audi 16K & 39K but Honda 46K and 94K.
    New rear brake pads Audi 18K & 37K but Honda 76K
    New front brake pads Audi 20K & 39K but Honda 88K
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Well then go to a regular repair shop---even a garage that repairs pickup trucks can tell if rotors are shot or axle boots are bad. They might not want to fix them but at least you'll have more information so that you can unload this car. It's obviously not working out for you at all.
  • Hi Mr.Shiftight Ref: Moneypit !
    I guess I over did my commentary with (Mr. 4moneypit). But after a bit of thought I'm wondering if a car that's 8 years old really has that many problems. According to the owner It only has 39000 miles, that is just under 5K/Year. From a mileage stand point it is not even out of warranty. Odometer tampering????, and if my memory serves me correctly, in O3 Audi was offering a drive train warranty of 5 years. I have a friend with a 99 A6 3 Ltr. 5 Cly.V6 w/300K Kilometers and with the exception of a leaking Valve cover gasket and his inspection, the car was dry as bone from front to back.
    In any case thanks for stepping in. I tend to be a bit long winded.
    Best regards
    Still Summer in the Bay Area???
    J.Infield (jkAudiA6) :shades:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    yep, still summertime here with palm trees and parrots in the trees (not really, but it's in the high 60s).
  • I have car back and is running fine! The tech did get an error code this time and it related to Internal Failure in Fuel Pressure Sensor.

    They replaced low fuel pressure sensor. Under warrantly so I wasn't taking car back until it was fixed....but could just imagine what might have been without a warranty.
  • Happy New Year Clylesir,
    That is great news. I hope you enjoy your A6 for a long time to come.
    The O8 A6 is a great looking Automobile and very complex. Also a promo for Edmunds, they have a number of great helpful hint areas. My moto is you've got to be smarter than the Service advisors in order to keep them honest. You've heard the old saying, "Some are just better than others".
    Have a great day and enjoy.
    Best Regards
    JKAudiA6 ;)
  • i have a 1996 a6 quattro, and i love it!!! but i cant lock my doors. i have tried the keys, and the buttons on the doors and even the little remote. but nothing works. i hate that i cant lock it. so my question is, is there a way to fix that without spending a ton of money? like can i do it myself, if i change the battery in the remote or something?
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Have you checked all your fuses?
  • no. i dont know where my fuses are.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    the book says the fuse is # A3 - Central Locking System Fuse, S52

    and that it is in Auxiliary Relay Panel #1 but it doesn't tell me where that is :cry:

    Oh wait---it does show the fuse panel by your left foot and the Aux Relay panel higher up, underneath, up near the windshield.

    So get a comfy pillow, tape a flashlight to your head, and get up under there.
  • jwrednwjwrednw Posts: 4
    edited October 2012
    Hey, just an update on my 95,000 service costs:

    - Resealed Rear Timing Covers = $477.98
    - Replace Upper Link Bushings = $767.96
    - 95,00 Mile Service = $227.68

    Total Labor = $1158.10
    Totoal Parts = $278.62
    Misc Charges = $6.00
    Sales Tax = $101.57
    = Total = $1584.29

    On a sidenote, my A/C went out shortly after service and I still need to fix my rear driver window that doesn't work and replace my parking assist speaker.

    I think it is time for a new car. Question is whether to change brands that may be more reliable?
  • I was in the same situation 8 months ago. I left the brand and didn't look back. I sometimes wonder if high and frequent service bills are part of the service model. If you are blowing $2k at 95k, what is going to break at 110 or 120. Unless you can fix it yourself, I recommend switching to Lexus, bmw, etc. heck, even GM makes better cars than Audi. To quote the service manager at Byers imports in Columbus, Ohio, "if it begins with an A and ends in an I, you know it is gonna be expensive" (snicker, snicker).
  • Ouch! In your service book 95k should be a major service, Oil, filter, spark plugs,
    Brake pad check, air filter etc. , but you did not mention any of those?
    Did you have a oil leak or knocking noise, vibration from the front suspension?
    More to the point, ref. your question!
    If you like or want another Luxury car then you should understand that service and repair are priced accordingly, in particular when you go to a dealer for service. Second if this car is business related you may want to consider leasing.
    If it is private use only and your not a "do it yourself" repair type an independent garage in your area, that know your car, is a better choice.
    Last but not least! Do research to find the cars which have a low level of repair
    Using reputable testing sources,ie; Edmunds, Car & Driver, Gov't agencies, etc.
    There is an old saying in the sales business, " Sell the sizzle, not the steak".
    Good luck with your next choice
  • sbornosborno Posts: 9
    I'm an audi guy. I am on my third one, and the only one which has had major problems. First was a 98 A4 2.8 6sp sport, then upgraded to a '00 A6 2.7T, 6sp with sport, had it until totalled, Cats needed to be replaced but that's all, and still drove great til the end. Now, my '07 A6 4.2, w/sport, has had substantial problems. I bought it used 2.5 years ago with 45K, now has 95K. It started @ 85K, about 6 months ago, and seems t have no end in site, although ALL the repairs have been covered under my CPO, and they've given me a vehicle every time. I've had a Q7, Q5, A8, Camry Hybrid, and regular Camry.

    Here's the details on the repairs: It started with check engine light, which led to a month long repair, starting with sensors, some type of engine component replacement, (not the whole engine obviously), and ended with the main computer being replaced. Then it was the A/C, it took the dealer 3X to figure out that the condenser needed to be replaced, which was done and solved the problem. Then, another check engine lite resulted in the high pressure fuel pumps, and both banks of fuel injector were replaced, (2nd time, they were replaced with the first major repair). I thought that'd be it for awhile, but then had a evap leak.

    This happened out of warrantee, but I called audiusa, and they actually covered the repair in good faith, 'one last time.', the check engine went on the next day?, the dealer said an additional vac line would be repaired under warrantee, but that the intake manifold would need to be replaced, and would not be covered. I hit the roof, called audi, only to have the service manager call the next day, to say it wasn't the intake manifold, that they'd put their best tech on it, (top 5 in the country supposedly), and would let me know. They found a faulty purge valve, replaced it and did NOT charge me anything. The even replaced the drive window controls, which I had mentioned during the warrantee, but could not be reproduced at the time. So, this group one audi dealer in new england has problems diagnosing things, but in the end they did the right thing, as did audi.
    I have to be honest, although it's been aggravating, it's been a relatively reasonable process.

    Now, what? do i keep her, or move on?, even if she needs some repairs, its certainly cheaper than replacing. Although, I absolutely love the new A6, and it's innovation option, and much better mileage. Bigger picture, is I always keep'm long time, was offered 12-13K, from dealers, could probably sell'r myself and get 16K, have seen some pre-owned 12s for almost 20% of sticker and certified, these are loaded vehicles.

    Here's the rest of the picture: Our family of three drivers, (soon to be four) has an aging fleet!
    Wife drives an 04 Sienna, w/150K luvs it and will keep it for now, she takes her bike to work, we utilize the roominess for 7 passengers, and are kids have cut thier teeth on it. My son (almost 18) now drives a 01 infiniti I30, w/50K, got a great deal, runs great aswell. my daughter(16) will drive the van, (like my son did) for the first couple of months, and i will find something for her. While she's driving the van come February, my wife will drive the audi, and I will drive my 'toy.' Which is a PUFF, '01 bmw M3 conv, with hardtop/73K. So, I'm ok with the shuffle, and we could do nothing until spring or even next winter..., but I'm always looking, u know how we get the itch.

    btw way my next 'dream car", would be a used 11 cayenne, (properly equiped), of the next Q7, which wont b out for a year or so. that's the BIG picture, i went from boston to NJ for this a6, (it had everything i was looking for), and i don't mind the process of hunting/waiting for the right car.
    We bought the sienna new, cause it was only available new, and it had sooo many upgraded features to the old caravan, and we knew we'd keep it a loooong time.

    But what now?, if the tranny, of some electronics go, it will devalue my A6 heavily, but repairing would still be cheaper than replacement, and it really is a family car, for now.
    I'm inclined to be patient, however tough that is, because all the newer cars i want will certainly depreciate faster than my '07, but it's a bit risky

    So sorry for the lenghthy post, but there's a lot of history/info here.
    Any thoughts, suggestions or comments are appreciated, from this great forum for help!!
  • Before you run out to buy this "wonderful" dream cayenne, read what consumer reports has to say about it. You could go form bad to worse.
    And FYI a new transmission will cost you about $6000
    Good luck!
    Another happy audi owner.
  • jklossjkloss Posts: 39
    Has anyone experienced a "growling" brake noise when applying the brakes slowly such as in parking? Or has anyone heard a strange brake noise When slowly releasing the brake pedal?
  • houbihoubi Posts: 1
    I see you got the same problem like me, but almost 5 years earlier.
    Did you get any kind of helping answer on this ?
    Many thanks
  • hi p[rpgressed this upto cutting open abs control unit email me if want to know results plus when left for an hour does problem go away for short drive only ttp come on again zakpeg
  • My check engine light came on. The audi service said it most likely needs a new manifold blower. I don't know what it is, but yet more $$$ for repairs.
  • You need to recheck your vehicle configuration:IE, since 2006 there have only been two engines
    for the A6 both of which are Gasoline powered. One was 4.2 FSI the other a 3.2 Ltr.V6 FSI
    neither of which has a Turbocharged Manifold/Blower. The only other Engine relates to the S6
    a V10 550HP +.
    If you want help you need to provide specific Model information which will assist anyone who answers your question. If you have not already had a Diagnostic Error code read out done
    that is your first step. It will tell you and the Dealer Service Representative which engine and exhaust system components may have an error related to the "Engine Light".
    Re-Post your question with corrected information.
    jkAudiA6 :shades:
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    edited February 2013
    Hi jkloss ! If you have not already done so you need to get an error code reading from the dealer specifically for the brake components which are electronically monitored. Don't even think about cutting open a Control Unit (ECU) it will end up costing more than the brake repairs.
    If your a high mileage driver:IE, say! 60k to 80k/Yr. on a 2012 car you may need brake pads rotors or both, in the front.
    Brake pads will only provide a warning light if the Pads are equipped with an electronic cable and sensor imbedded in the Pad. Rotors will need to be replaced if they have deep scaring/groves or the Total thickness is less than 12 millimeters.
    By the way I see you indicated two different models; which is it?(A6 or A7) or do you have two cars?
    Bottom line is Brakes fall under "Normal wear items" and unless there is Defect in the brake system, warranty will not cover this
    PS:On my A6 3.2 V6 2005
    I change front and rear brake pads and rotors around 70Kilometers and went with Continental/ATE Ceramic Pads and matching rotors. The cost was
    marginally more than standard Pad and rotors but improved the braking characteristic. Additionally they produce fare less brake dust so I saved money not having to buy Aluminum wheel cleaner.
    Hope this helps.
  • Hi sborno!
    I found my chart on Auto depreciation over time and what happens from cost point of view. This is a compilation of the big picture about 'depreciation compared to repair cost". Keeping in mind this would vary depending on brand and model of car as it relates to demand and repairs if regular service is being performed etc. This is not my study but from a "Auto Magazine.
    1. At two Years of ownership repair cost are approximately 45%
    at four years 170%. At just over 5 years of owning repair cost have risen to 253%, Ouuch.
    2. On the other side of this graph is depreciation over time:
    1. At 1 year -30%, at 4 years -45% and at 5 years -58% increase in repair costs.
    These are to opposing graph lines;one (Repair Cost) going up, the other (Depreciation going Down).
    Both of these lines cross at 5 years (+/-). So! Here's my take!
    If ! at any intersect of the two lines, starting at 2years, you add the (cost of repair) + (Value depreciation)+(Insurance,Annual Taxes,fuel cost) it does not take 5 years for the vehicle to have zero value. But you could just go to "The Automobile Club" then you'd have a reliable independent evaluation.
    The second equally important factor which most of us,myself included, use when buying a car:
    The emotional factor. Most people buy cars for it's creature comforts not for it's reliability, why because it's easier to push a button than figure all this other stuff out.
    So I would join the opinion of Mr. Shiftright in saying, If you're going to buy read the reports on cars until you find the one that's most reliable.
    In order of priority: Of course if Money is no Object, then this is all theoretical.
    1. Service Reliability.
    2. Fuel Economy (Gas prices are not going down)
    3. Your Price bracket
    3. Practicality (Don't overbuy)
    4. Don't buy New (Certified pre-owned or Demo)
    5. Is electric or Hybrid an option (Local Climate)
    6. Depreciation is coming regardless. Finally the average person drives,on average/day within 50 miles/day of home.
    7. Bells and whistles.
    Hope you find something here that's useful.
    Best Regards
    jkAudiA6 :)
  • hilltop3hilltop3 Posts: 33
    I have ordered a new A6, and when it comes in I know I need to determine if I want the Prepaid Maintenance. Has anyone had experience with this that they could share with me?
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Greetings hilltop3!
    Ohhhh, Prepaid Maintenance.
    1. You got to read the fine print on those type offerings.
    Why because the difference between maintenance and Warranty item repair along with "The Time Factor", what items are in need of repair/service will determine who pays what, when and under what conditions.
    2. If your financing you generally would not want the Prepaid maintenance or financing insurance to be part of the sales contract as it increase your monthly payment. Both Finance Insurance and Prepaid Maintenance insurance are generally contracts with "Third Party Companies". They determine how much, under what conditions those claims for payment will be accepted. The dealership may or may-not be the middle man between the vehicle owner (You) and the insurance provider.
    3. Both of these types of "Additional Coverage" items are during the Warranty period which basically means you maybe paying for coverage you already have under the Manufactures Warranty.
    4. In particular the Maintenance schedule and it's related conditions will determine if you get Warranty coverage.
    5. Regular scheduled maintenance is for normal wear-and-tear items;ie, Brake pads & rotors, oil, air & filter, belts and fluids changes.
    In Europe Audi has two types of Service schedules
    The first is yearly the second is "Long Life" every two years.
    The long life service requires a different Motor Oil based on Audi Standards;ie, Synthetic 100% which cost more than a standard 10/40W oil.
    6. Depending which state you live in, current laws regarding "Who does repair work" may allow for you to go to a "State certified Service center" for repair and service. This is now the case in Germany as the customers were being charged much higher prices at the Dealers Service facilities but warranties were not being honored because service was not performed by an Audi Service Center.
    Secondly! A Certified None dealership service center does not necessarily mean a voided warranty with the Manufacture if the law provides guidance on this issue. Additionally there are federal agencies which provide guidance and services on these type issues.
    7. The last point on this is the Extended Vehicle Protection Coverage which Audi/VW offer, In the USA I don't know but Germany Yes.
    Again this is an additional coverage which overlaps the Mfg's Warranty and is not cheap. I had this protection on my Audi A6 purchased used from an Audi Dealer, It had only 35000 miles when purchased. The shocker came when I wanted to renew that coverage, they wanted 500 Euro/Approximately $750 to extend it for one year.

    Of course the Maintenance question is always tied in to your driving habits, willingness to maintain the vehicle and how long your going to drive this vehicle. Generally speaking the Audi is a Solid reliable vehicle, but Cars being what they are, they will have there moments.
    In closing! I spent ten years as a Automotive service adviser, Mercedes, Porsche, Toyota, Fiat, Volvo and spent a number of years in retail.
    Let me just say! If I went to an investment firm or bank to invest money and they asked me to pay them upfront for there service/performance I would think real hard before paying them. Why Because there is usually a disclaimer at the bottom of every contract stating " The statements enclosed herein are base on past market indicators/performance and do not imply or guarantee positive future postive performance." or words to that effect. :confuse:
    The Best Car Purchase/buyer is a "Well Informed Buyer".
    I love my Audi, I hope you will feel the Same.
    Best Regards
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • hilltop3hilltop3 Posts: 33
    Hi JKAudi6,
    Thank you for all that wonderful information. A lot of food for thought, which will require additional research. I feel the 2012 A6 would be a good indicator for me, and maybe others are out there and can share their experiences Over the last year. I will look into the certified places of repair, and dig deeper into the terms of agreement for these various add ons. Will not roll into the lease- no way. I plan to drive this car fairly aggressively, but have always taken care of the cars we have.

    Appreciate the help and direction you've provided!
  • anon3000anon3000 Posts: 1
    YES! I took our brand new 2013 A6 to the dealer on this issue. Ours happens when you come to a full stop. It is a brakes grabbing type of sound, and reoccurs as you release the brake, the same kinda sound you would get using throttle and brakes at the same time. Quite annoying. Is yours sorted? Audi said there is no issue.
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    edited May 2013
    Hi anon3000 and jkloss!
    Here is a link to Audi USA web page. In the middle of the screen enter your VIN number and click the search button. If there is a "Recall on your model" it should show up on this page. If one appears, print it out take it to your Audi Dealer and show them the Response from Audi USA. - kup.html">link title
    Now if that link does not provide any recall information referencing your specific problem/model Audi and the noise continues a letter to Audi USA is an alternative.
    I will take a stab in the dark regarding your Noise but from where I am sitting it's a Stab in the dark:
    a. If the noise is coming from the front have the Front brake pads removed
    and re-lubricate with Copper Brake paste on the reverse side of the pad which the Brake Caliper presses against.
    B. Also have the Inside and outside surface of the Brake Rotors checked for Unusual wear pattern;ie, groves or deep scratches.
    C. As you've indicated "The noise also occurs when releasing the brake pedal". Ah You may very well have a Vacuum leak in the system which supports the braking system;ie, Similar to A Grown type sound.
    D. If this noise happens during hard braking, such as an emergency stop, there maybe a problem with the ABS (Anti Blocking System) which regulates brake pressure under such conditions.
    E. IF you have not already done so I would suggest you have the dealer do a read out of the ECU, "Central Control Unit" for error codes. If this noise is related to an electronically controlled System and a malfunction occurrence it produced an error code. This code is registered and maintained in the ECU until cleared by the dealer.
    A final note: Brakes should never make any noise in particular Audi Brakes.
    Hope this has been of additional help.
    Best Regards
  • drogadroga Posts: 1
    Hi, people! I have Audi A6 3.2 2007

    It is little over 60000 miles and is time for another maintenance now. What is approx cost of it? Any estimates are welcome (and a dealership please)

  • almattialmatti Posts: 164
    Hi Audi Folk: I am coming to end of a lease on a 2010 Infiniti G37X. I'v shopped for replacement cars - test drove many vehicles and I think the A6 is a great "german" car. I've never owned or leased a BMW, Audi, VW, or MB. I have been shopping for a CPO car (of various models: Acura, Infiniti, Audi A-6 & A5, BMW 535i, E350MB), trying to get out from leasing.
    I've read reviews on Edmunds, and elsewhere on the 2011 A-6, test drove one today. I really like it. I have few questions; Any known problems ?; although ths car is used with 24k miles, the dealer offers the balance of the new car warranty [50K or 4 years leaving 26K and/or 2 years], the dealer has not offered this as a CPO?. Audi USA says that's up to the dealer and couldn't answer the question. The price is right (under many others I've seen 2010 and 2011 with higher mileage]. The CarFax is clean - 1 owner from the same dealership? Any advise or comments are very much appreciated.... THX. Oh yeah, this is competing with an Infiniti 2013 M37X (has the most beautiful interior IMHO), as a lease where they will waive my last 3 payments - that is tempting. The Audi Dealer syas that I m responsible for turning my G - that's a real bummer in the deal which adds $1700 with the Dispo fee.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    There have been some complaints about excessive oil consumption with the 3.0T, which apparently requires replacement of the crankcase pressure regulating valve.

    also a recall with cars having VINs 025215 through 045531 involving a defective ilder pulley.
  • Hi I have a 2010 audi a6 and im trying to take off the rear driverside door handle an someone help? I cant figure out how to remove rear door handle.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    inside or outside handle?
  • Hi All: 2003 A6 Quattro wagon, 92,000 miles. Tried to start it a few days ago during frigid Minnesota weather. Cranked very slowly, so checked battery compartment. Positive terminal badly corroded, so just figured that was the problem. I cleaned the terminal thoroughly, but when I tried to start it, it made no difference. Car cranked slowly, then died completely. OK, time for a jump, then go buy a new battery. Hooked it up to my other vehicle...STILL wouldn't crank....what the...? What was completely baffling was that even with the jumper cables connected to the A6 battery, there was NO juice to ANYTHING in the headlights, no interior lights, no power locks or windows. Made no sense, but since the battery was old, I figured I would throw a new one in anyway. Still nothing! So no power is getting from the new battery into the car. Does anyone know if there is a fusible link or some sort of master fuse in this year A6? When I say there's no power, I mean NO power, to anything. Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks to all! Frogman
  • Minnesota Trouble Shooting!
    I did not see any mention of Engine type, other than (3.0) in your post but it's secondary to your problem unless you have a Diesel Engine.
    Unless you have a diagnostic device capable of reading "Diagnostic trouble Codes" you will need to have the car towed to an Audi Service Center or reputable Shop who's very good with Audi trouble shooting, the later having the necessary diagnostic devices.
    In short the Electrical Management of all electrical devices (ECU's) controlled by small computers located in several locations in the vehicle. These devices (ECU's) control and manage all electrical devices. On a self help level you could check related Fuses to systems which would allow the vehicle to start;ie, Fuel Pump, Temperature Sensors, Power to Spark plugs etc........... But if it's as cold as I think it is where you are I'd think twice.
    Here is an address/Link: With Error Codes for Audi:
    If your a self helper;IE, DIY type you would be best served using
    ERWIN.Com for the US. They have an hourly rate for service INFO and Doc's.
    Hope this helps.
    Best Regards
  • audiluvbluesaudiluvblues Posts: 10
    edited December 2013
    Hi, I have a 2005 Audi A6 and I'm not getting any sound from the radio and CD player. The voice for navigation and blue tooth work.
    I've tried unplugging the amp and I still have the same problem.
    Can anyone help me with this issue...

    Does anyone know of a good Audi mechanic in North Jersey?
  • chidemchidem Posts: 1
    edited December 2013
    I have a 2013 Audi A6 2.0T. Every time I apply the brakes and my speed reduces to under 15 mph, the brakes squeal. It sounds like it comes from the front of the vehicle. When I stop using the brakes, the noise goes away. When I apply the brakes again to stop the vehicle, the noise is back.

    It is very loud.

    I've taken the car in to my dealership and I was told there were no issues. The brake pads were fine. The dealership gave me a bunch of mumbo jumbo about brake dust and metallic brakes. It sounded like a bunch of crap. Are there other people having problems? What should I do?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Not much you can do except change the pads to something softer. The dealer could have at least put some goop on the back of the pads to quiet them down a bit.
  • Not sure if already covered before. I have 2006 A6 3.1V6 with 146k mi. Always carefully serviced. HVAC has started blowing heat full blast even w/temp set down to 66. I had to put it to Low and let it cool off. we were on a long winter drive. bit of a pain. Head unit/controls or actuator motor? seems to be able to direct air to proper vents. such can't regulate temp between off and burning hot.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490

    Okay--on this system, there SHOULD be a fault code to help us identify the problem.

    @carcrazy37 said:
    Not sure if already covered before. I have 2006 A6 3.1V6 with 146k mi. Always carefully serviced. HVAC has started blowing heat full blast even w/temp set down to 66. I had to put it to Low and let it cool off. we were on a long winter drive. bit of a pain. Head unit/controls or actuator motor? seems to be able to direct air to proper vents. such can't regulate temp between off and burning hot.

  • nxnw1nxnw1 Posts: 3

    My 2007 A6 with 60k miles (bought certified, pre-owned 4 years ago with 28k miles and performed all services at dealership) just suffered a catastrophic engine failure. Check engine light came on, stopped at exit, wouldn't start again, towed to dealer, declared dead. $17,500 to replace the engine. Anyone with similar experience? Audi offer to split the repair bill. At first glance, this seems generous for out-of-warranty car. But, I don't feel ANY culpability here - I purchased a certified, pre-owned vehicle, maintained it faithfully at their dealership and had no warnings to which I could respond to mitigate damages. Any thoughts/experiences would be appreciated?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited May 2014

    What was the diagnosis? Sludge? Not sure why you would need an entire engine unless it seized up or blew up on you while you were driving. Also, those are Porsche engine prices you're being quoted, so 1/2 of an inflated price = zero.

  • I would appreciate opinions on 2006 Audi Avant 3.2 quattro with 170,000 miles
    Last oil change mechanic (not dealership) quoted price for front control arm replacement both sides $3000. Not really having any steering or suspension problems. I understand that bushings may be worn, but not that interested in spending that much. Reviewed Youtube video for DIY replacement but probably more than I will tackle. Really using car for short commutes of less than 3 miles. Everything else aside, the car still running well. Questions:
    1. Cheaper options? Mechanic says the steel bolt usually freezes in aluminum and usually have to replace whole control arm
    2. Anybody DIY and difficulty. Don't have lift just garage jacks.
    3. What is a real mechanical potential failure?
    Thanks for any thoughts
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Well what symptoms are being noticed to justify this repair? Oddly worn tires? Does the control arm actually shift noticeably (i.e. can you see the tire move forward or back) during slow speed braking? Will the car not align properly? Is there a safety issue?

    $3K is half the value of the car, so there should be a very compelling reason to do this work.

    I did the control arms on my MINI because you could actually see the wheel moving when I braked and you could use a pry bar to shift the control arm. In other words, the necessity for the repair was easily demonstrated to me by the shop.

  • saseng09saseng09 MNPosts: 3
    Does anyone know how much a 75K mile maintenance would be for a 2004 a6 2.7T s-line??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited November 2014
    Okay, are you sitting down?

    If you haven't had a timing belt done, that's about $1800. The rest of the service, which is a fairly large one at 75K will be about $750. Add to that sales tax. These are prices for California, so if you are in a more rural area of the country, you will probably pay somewhat less for labor costs per hour---but it's still going to be a large bill.

    Source: Hi-Tec Automotive of San Rafael, CA--independent repair facility and Audi specialists.

  • saseng09saseng09 MNPosts: 3
    Thanks mr_shiftright! looks like i will have to drop out of school next semester to pay for that! haha :'(
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    edited November 2014
    That's odd - on here it looks like the 75k service is just a tire rotation (~$20). The 80k service is a bigger one - the Edmunds Car Maintenance Guide estimates that should cost you around $360. And we say the timing belt is good until 120k.

    Looks like we have a disconnect somewhere.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited November 2014
    Audi has updated their maintenance schedule for the A6 2.7 to 75,000 miles. That's official, 100% certain.

    Given the consequences, an owner would be unwise to adhere to the 120K recommendation. Edmunds should change that. Can't blame 'em---they didn't get the memo I guess.

    And of course, if you're doing the timing belt, you should do the big service then, whether it's 75K or 80K.

    Gotta stay on top of your game with Audis. :)

  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 137,983
    Geez... no wonder you can buy these for $8K-$10K all day long...

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    No kidding.

    Found a link to the "official" Audi maintenance schedule - it's kind of like reading a bus schedule at first. (pdf file).
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