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Dodge Dakota Stalling and Dying Problems

124

Comments

  • Check msg 105. The part about the computer connection. Could be many things, but my problem ended up being the computer 's internal connections.
    Notice the part about the Check Engine Light not coming on. That is a hint there may be something wrong with the computer module.
    Good luck with it.
  • If it is dying in a random fashion, the only thing that comes to mind is the
    camshaft sensor or the crankshaft sensor going intermitten and causing
    loss of injector and ignition control from the PCM.

    These are known to go "squirrely", being solid state Hall effect sensors,
    and they don't always produce a code at the OBDII diagnostic connector.
  • there is a black box on the passanger side of the engine compartment, it is near the front of the vehicle, has a bolt in the middle holding the cover on, with a bundle of wires coming from it, this is where the problem is coming from
  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    edited November 2011
    Bluthunder,
    That was my problem also. The black box you are talking about is the computer/ECM that I referenced in post # 105 and 155. My connection was bad inside of the computer module where I couldn't fix it, not just at the plug. I had to buy a used one on EBay and all my problems went away.
    I believe that the check engine light (CEL) is a good indicator of that being the problem. When turning the ignition on, it would not start unless the CEL was on. I had to wiggle that bundle wires at the computer and when the CEL came on, it would start and I was good to go for a while. :)
    Dave
  • I have a 2004 Dakota with a 4.7 motor. It has dyed on me several times in the last week. It does it at different speeds. It also does it when it is warm. I can put it in neutral while still moving and it will start up. Can soneone help me.
  • If it stalling randomly..there should be a computer code stored inside on why
    that may be happening. You need an OBDII reader to pull the codes out
    of the computer (PCM) at the OBDII diagnostic connector.

    As far as the engine stalling on you in a random fashion...it could really be anything... such as:
    - fuel pump pressure intermittent/fuel pump relay or circuit
    -engine timing sensor (camshaft or crankshaft)..both of these are
    used by the PCM (powertrain control module) to determine spark timing
    and injector timing. Any instanteous (temporary glitches) in one of these
    two sensors will cause the PCM to operate the Auto-Shutdown relay located
    in the PDC (Power Distribution Center) on the driver's side fender.

    There may be other sensors (TPS) that can cause the engine to stall on you
    as well, but stalls are usually due to a sensor problem that affects engine timing
    and as soon as the PCM detects that..it kills the fuel injectors and ignition coils
    via the auto-shutdown.
  • My 99 Dakota 3.9SFI won't start after it runs for a little while. Example: I start it in the morning and drive to work. When I get back in it after 20 min it will crank like hell but won't start. If I let it sit for 10 min or so it will start right up. It used to idle at 1K or just under and now it's at 500.

    Here's a better example: I drove on the expressway for 20 min, stopped at the store by my house for 15 min, when I got back in the truck to go home it wouldn't start......waited about 10 min after the initial try and it started right up.

    I can't seem to figure it out, I tested the fuel rail to see if it had strong gas flow, which it does. No check engine light, and never had a problem like this before, so I'm stumped????? :confuse:
  • Could be a lot of things, but look at the TPS. Sometimes they go bad and do not trip a code.
  • try adding a new ground wire from the battery to the body and from the engine to the frame. also make sure all your connections are clean and tight. a little bit of dioelectric silicone will insure that the connections stay clean and don't rust or corrode. you can get it at your local parts store. its the same silicone they put on your plug wires to stop corrosion in your dist cap or coil. Hope this helps you out. I had the same problem with my 87 dakota.
  • check your ecm connectors wiggle them and see if it makes the engine idle raise or try to stall could be a bad ground or a cracked ecm board. check your ground cables body ground and engine to frame ground if not there add one good luck.
  • i have a 1993 dodge dakota and after about 30 miles of driving within a couple hours my truck will start to die while i drive and sometimes not start back up. I replaced the pcv valve, breather cap, rotator cap and motor, and the muffler on it. That helped a lil bit but still it dies. I have been told that it could be the EGR valve. Anybody have any other suggestions?
  • This was a common problem that I had when I was younger, and unfortunately can be an expensive fix if you are unfamiliar with the Dodge systems and engage in a hit-or-miss type of fix. Unfortunately, mechanics who are familiar love to play this game with you to drive up their revenue and your repair bill by having you come in for these monopoly dice repairs, when the problem may be a quick, easy fix with a $45.00 part. Behing the carburetor on the passenger side and just behind the manifold is a harness leading to what is called the Crank Position Sensor. It basically has the job of telling the engine the position that the crankshaft is in and regulates the firing time accordingly. Quite often on the older Dakotas, this is the problems, and it's symptoms are similar to that of a bad fuel pump, or module issue. There was even a fellow tech that told me I needed a motor. I realize this blog is 4 years late in the making, but it is my first day on this site, and perhaps this may benefit someone down the road who visits.
  • This was a common problem that I had when I was younger, and unfortunately can be an expensive fix if you are unfamiliar with the Dodge systems and engage in a hit-or-miss type of fix. Unfortunately, mechanics who are familiar love to play this game with you to drive up their revenue and your repair bill by having you come in for these monopoly dice repairs, when the problem may be a quick, easy fix with a $45.00 part. Behing the carburetor on the passenger side and just behind the manifold is a harness leading to what is called the Crank Position Sensor. It basically has the job of telling the engine the position that the crankshaft is in and regulates the firing time accordingly. Quite often on the older Dakotas, this is the problems, and it's symptoms are similar to that of a bad fuel pump, or module issue. There was even a fellow tech that told me I needed a motor. I realize this blog is 4 years late in the making, but it is my first day on this site, and perhaps this may benefit someone down the road who visits.
  • thats exactly what it was. i took it to the shop and they replaced the crank sensor and the pcm. which was quite a lot of money but it was still shutting off sometimes. so i replaced the fuel filter on it and it doesnt sputter r shut off at all now. My brother blew through the old filter and could barely feel air come through the other side. Thanks
  • Hi everyone.ni have a dodge Dakota 1999 rear wheel drive v8. My car has lost power while driving and shuts off. When I try restarting it, the engine cranks no problem, tries to stay on, but dies. I got a check engine light with a two codes. One is about the >throttle position sensor, and the second one is >engine running and the ECM detected MAP sensor voltage less than expected. Anyone experienced similar problems before that can help me trouble shoot this?
  • I have a 2005 Dodge Dakota that has recently started "sputtering" when I'm in drive, sitting at a light...it had yet to actually die on me until this weekend. I shut it off and it started right back up. It seems to be running a little rough as well. It has never had a tune up, so I'm not sure it that would fix it. Also in the past few years, sometimes I will put it in reverse or drive and it will take about 10 seconds to actually get into that gear and it jerks. We are trying to start out small and cheap, so we are going to be replacing spark plugs tonight...we'll see what that does. Anyone have this same problem?
  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    I haven't had this problem yet, but it could be lots of things.
    How many miles and what engine and 2/4 wheel drive, trans?
    No codes from the OBDII genie? Could be Fuel filter/pump, plug wires getting old, grimy dirt causing grounding, dirty IAC, bad throttle control unit (many go bad I've heard), bad ground somewhere. Not sure if you have a distributor, but that could be it. Bad ground causes lots of things. Results are unpredictable.
    Don't really like the trans problem. Of course, check fluid levels, then electric connections/ground.
    Check EGR valve operation. Check for vacuum problems. Computers hide things by over compensating until they can't anymore. Usually get some codes though.
    I used to replace my plug wires when I could see the spark going thru them in the dark. I would idle the engine at night in the dark with no lights. That was in my older vehicles. Also the spark coil. I'm not sure if your engine has 1 or many. Those connections can get corroded.
    Good hunting. I hope somebody that had this problem answers you.
  • I have a 99 dodge dakota with a 3.9 L engine. I won't stay running without having the throttle depressed or the vacuum hose pulled off the pcv valve. Its acting like a vacuum leak. Just did a full tune up on it- plugs, wires, cap and rotor, air filter, coil and pcv valve. No codes. What is using vacuum? pcv, fuel tank canister, dash controls, brake booster, cruise control, and what else? Don't see an EGR valve. Leaking intake Gasket??? Help me out here. Has 192,000 miles
  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    Sounds like it needs more air, or less gas, if it runs better with vacuum hose off. That would say it is not a vacuum leak as a leak would give it more air. I would check the IAC and TPS after insuring all wiring connections are in place.
    Did this start after your tune up or before.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    +1 for the IAC. If that's not working or hung up, then the engine will essentially be choked off until another source of air is provided.
  • so when i got the truck i took my former friend who has been a mechanic for 27 years... the truck had to be what my fiance calls "neutral dropped" to go into reverse and stalled when put into gear anything but park and neutral. he said all that was wrong with it was either the tcc solenoid or the speed sensor and promised me hed fix it cause he talked me into buying the thing... then he decided he wasnt my friend anymore over some 5th grade type drama... anyways i replaced the solenoid and the sensor as well as flushed the transmission and changed the filter in there, its had a full tune up... including serpentine belt, distributor cap and button and spark plugs and wires... ive also replaced the iac after reading that it could cause these issues and when we looked at it it was broken. after all that we noticed the radiator reservoir cap was gone so that got us thinking and we found out there was barely any liquid in the radiator and when we flushed it we got a ton of rusty water. after all weve done to it it runs pretty good except that it dies if you put it into reverse from anything but neutral. it also has no brakes in reverse. it has 171900 miles on it and i know it needs a power steering pump, but it will be well worth doing that if i dont have to sink a grand into a new transmission. Ive ordered a computer reader online cause my check engine light is on, and it should be here before too long but also i cant find the coolant bleeder valve... i only got the truck cause we live out in the middle of nowhere and have to haul our own trash and just after we got it the car started going out so i need to know if this thing is more headache than its worth or what... please help if you can :cry:
  • nova4lifenova4life Posts: 4
    My husbands truck is a 1992 Dodge Dakota with 300k miles on it. It has been dying, running really rough, surging, shaking. The crankshaft position sensor has been changed along with wires, plugs, distributor cap, coil, and we put fuel injection stuff in the tank. Now it won't start at all, I'M writing this because now he has to take my 74 nova to work every day,,,PLEASE HELP!! any input would be greatly appreciated, a list of anything else to do.
  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    IAC or EGR Valve jump out as a possibilities. 300K, wow. By now I would think he knows everything about that truck. Check fuel pump/filter. I had my computer get a break in the internal wires and had to replace that. See post #105 on page 6 for info.
    Could be lots of things. Good hunting.
  • nova4lifenova4life Posts: 4
    We took it in yesterday just to find out it was the coil, but now today at low RPM it is still dying, and the truck was given to him, so he hasn't put the whole mileage on it lol, could this be a sensor?
  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    edited June 2012
    Interesting.
    Did the new coil solve the other problems? I saw that the wires were replaced and the coil, but it was still the coil they said?
    Hope they replaced the plugs and wires. They usually break down after a while, 100,000 miles. Old wires will show the spark going thru them at night. let it idle, when it will, and have all the lights off in the area and watch the light show.

    Another thing that goes bad is electrical connections after 10 or so years. Check and clean all the connections and also the plug wire and coil wire connections. Sometimes they get rusty where you can't see it and build up resistance, but that shouldn't be as they were replaced.
    Include the battery ground to the block.

    Could be in the distributor.

    Could still be The Idle Air Control (IAC) or EGR. The IAC is under the air filter on the throttle body, if memory serves. It gets dirty and sometimes doesn't close or work correctly. I had cleaned mine a few times but I finally bought a new one, around $50, and solved the problem. It is held in by 2 screws after you detach the wire connector. A pretty simply task to replace it.
    EGR is at rear? of the engine and is also an easy fix.

    I don't believe the 92 has a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). I have heard that the TPS goes bad on the newer vehicles. I bought a 2001 Dakota 3.9 with 51,000 and replaced the TPS immediately just to be safe.
    It has been a while since I had my 92. Hope I gave you straight info. I had it for 15 years and 180,000 miles. It was starting to take up all my time and rust wasn't stopping.

    OH, check for a vacuum leak.
    Did it backfire thru the throttle body when under load?

    Good hunting.
  • alanartalanart Posts: 7
    My 1992 V6 was doing the same thing...turned out to be the TPS.
  • drdaleadrdalea Posts: 1
    Check distributer shaft play....3/8 inch back and forth is allowed.

    If OK when it dies is the check engine light on with key forward. if yes does it start. (intermittent problem) If check engine light not on with key forward and when you crank it does not start replace the PCM about $155 at advance
    this is what fixed mine.

    Hope this is helpful to you.
  • hey im new to the car/truck scene, i just bought a 02 dodge dakota automatic v6 2x4 ext cab. its my first automobile, and ive had a few problems with it. when in reverse going up a hill, its very easy to stall out. when i take tight turns in parking lots or culdisacks where i have the wheel completely turned one direction, it stalls out (in drive or reverse). and finally sometimes when i put it in drive or reverse, it sticks in neutral even though it says im in gear on the dash. i asked a few friends and got different answers from all of them ranging from turn a few wrenches to buy a whole new transmission.
    i would appreciate the help and advice god bless
  • we bough our son a 93 dakota 2wd v6 and sometimes it will just click and then sometimes it will start and it usually has to sit for awhile to start and when it does it starts really hard like the engines dragging. we have put in new battery , starter, and fuel filter we were thinking it was the fuel pump but not sure. when its running it runs ok and doesnt stall. any suggetions
  • Hi All,

    I was trying to help my daughter with her 98 V6 Dakota truck. When started it will not idle on its own, then dies. I restart the truck and keep a higher idle speed (foot on gas pedal) and it runs rough. When put in gear it will die unless the idle is high enough. Once on the road it will die at every stop unless I can keep the idle high. When driving over 40-50 mph there is no problem with the truck. On the road, when the truck dies, sometimes it starts right back up and sometimes I have to wait about 45 minutes before it will start again. To add another twist, sometimes the truck starts and runs fine with no problems at all. No error codes show up as the check engine light has never come on.

    My first thought was the fuel filter but it seems the filter and pump are 1 unit located inside the gas tank. I do not want to spend 250.00 for a new fuel pump when I am not sure that is the problem. I am an old timer and have overhauled many engines and transmissions but that was before they turned cars/trucks into computers.

    I have read many post here that point to the IAC (Idle Air Control) but I wanted to ask others for any other options.

    Thanks for any help,

    Charles
  • I would go with the fuel pump which is in the tank or the fuel filter, that is under the door, on a 1992 v8 anyway. It really sounds like a fuel problem. Hope it helps , but I'm not a mechanic. Good luck.
  • I would first try the $50 IAC which is easy to replace.
  • Hi All,

    I just wanted to report back that the problem turned out to be a bad muffler. The muffler was replaced and state inspection done for $65.00 total.

    I would never have thought about the muffler.

    Thanks for all the help,

    Charles
  • to theunter1001, i'm having the same issue and found a sourse on youtube.
    try turning the ignition on 3 times without starting the engine. when you do this look in your odomitter window and a P
    (P) CODE will come up with dashes after them. if there is another code number it will come up and if not it will say P DONE...

    I just did this with my 2004 dodge dakota with a 4.7 engine.
    Hope this helps you out
  • you may not even get this message but I need to know what you did to fix your 2002 Dakota. I have the same truck with the same problem... please help
  • Hi,,,we have a 1992 dodge dakota,,,and the problem was the EGR....and a couple of censors...I have more details if you interested..
  • I would recommend the electronic choke which is located near where the air box assembly meets the throttle body. Sometimes it may get stuck and cause the engine to stall out.
  • 1997 Dakota, 205K miles. I've had a problem with stalling and dying on me for the past three months (Fall of 2014). Here's a list of my "symptoms" and what I've had done in that time. I had a nice three week stretch where it didn't die on me, but it started up again this morning.

    Symptoms
    On a cold start, truck will die going in reverse.
    At low idle (like a stop light) truck will dip below 750rpm and die.
    While driving, foot on the gas, engine will sputter, not die, but not getting gas either, then kick back in an accelerate.
    At stop signals, oil pressure reading will dip momentarily down to zero, check gauges will light up, then pressure will move back up to normal.
    Oh, and no obd codes for guidance.

    Fixes
    Initially there was an ignition coil code. Ignition coil replaced.
    Throttle Position Sensor replaced
    IAC Valve replaced
    Muffler, Cat Converter replaced. (Small rust hole in manifold still remains)
    Distributor and plugs and wires all replaced.
    Fuel Pump replaced (spring 2014)

    Today's temp was 8F on the drive in to work and I had less than a quarter tank and had it die on me 4 times. Could this be a gas line filter ( the one attaching to the frame?) or a fuel issue? Other stalling issues did not happen with an empty tank.

    I took it in to one shop and they said I needed my engine wiring harness completely redone along with a new pcm/ecm and the bill was going to be over $4k. Two other shops laughed when they heard the estimate.

    Anyone, Anyone? Bueller, please help.
  • Hello all !!
    I had a similar problem with my '97 V6 Dakota. My battery was over 7 years old. It really didn't seem to have a problem cranking the engine over. But over the last month it would start fine in the morning. I would run it around a little and shut it down. When I would go to restart it, it would crank over, run for a second and die. I would have to feather the gas pedal to keep it running. One cold morning the battery barely cranked the engine over. I got it going, ran it to the store and bought a battery. It's been fine ever since. I had read other forums from people with the same problem. Changing the battery cured their problem and mine as well
  • ryan999ryan999 Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    I'm having a similar problem to some of the others and was wondering if anyone could help. Here's my best description of the problem:

    When the engine is cold (usually notice on first startup), my temperature gauge doesn't seem to work until I get into fourth gear. Shifting (especially 2-3 and 3-4) is hard but that might just be the cold. If I get the engine into fourth gear before the engine is warm, the truck will die on first idle. At first I thought it was only upon stopping but it happened to me once now when I only took my foot off the gas. Each time, the truck will not start up for about 5-15 minutes. It will crank hard the whole time but won't turn over, and I have to feather the gas to get it to start when it does (never had the time to simply wait it out). Once it starts, it seems to run really rough and noisy, although I can't quite isolate the noise (almost seems to come from the rear but that wouldn't really make sense). It will die again if not given gas at idle until the engine is warm, but it starts up fine if it dies any of those times.

    If I run the car slowly (1st and 2nd gear) until it warms up, once I reach 4th gear the temperature gauge works again and it will not die. Obviously this isn't a long-term solution though. Also, it is possible the gauge is working, but it only shows heat once it gets into fourth, and it comes quickly from there.

    I tried replacing the TPS sensor as some of the other posters suggested. It seemed to make a small difference in idle, but didn't help the dying at all.

    This is coming on top of a longstanding problem of reverse not working, especially when cold. The truck seems not to grip into reverse and the problem is worse with the wheels turned. I have had it die on me in such a situation, but it always restarts immediately in that case. I do not think the two are related, but in case someone sees a connection I wanted to mention it.

    Oh, and of course, no codes, no check engine light. My mechanic is stumped and so am I. I'm trying to not replace everything under the sun and rather hope someone has a good answer as to what is causing this.
  • cmorocmoro Posts: 1
    Okay, so maybe someone's posted this already, but here it goes. Also, I apologize in advance, as I am typing this from my mobile cell.

    1999 Dodge Dakota, 3.9L 2WD, Standard Transmission, and a while back, I was having issues with idle and driving. When my battery would die (usually because I left the lights on or somesuch), the battery would die as expected .  As soon as I got it jumped, it would act funny. As soon as the thermostat clicked on, the idle would drop alot, and I would have to fight to shift. If I did not put the pedal to the floor, even shifting into, say, 4th gear, it would ahudder and lurch. The RPMs would go down, and so I had to back off of the accelerator, and put the hammer down, and could keep going. However, once I drove it 30 miles or so, everything went back to normal. After a trip to the mechanic, he said I had a bad battery, so everytime the battery was discharged, the ECM, in a sense, had to relearn how much pressure to put in the vacuum lines or in the fuel rail. Seemed like a good explanation to me, so I bought a new battery, and everything was good. 

    A few days ago, I stopped at the hardware store and when I came back out to the truck, it would not start. No lights, no radio, no interior lights, no nothing. So, I popped the hood, and discovered the the battery had shifted somehow, and so the positive cable running from the battery to the relay box had disconnected. So I reconnected it and everything was fine. 

    Yesterday, I stopped at a different hardware store and got back to the truck, started it up, and noticed the gas gauge read empty. Now, I knew I had at least one-eighth of a tank, and I parked on an incline, so I figured I should go fill up anyway. I filled up at a gas station that I usually don't go to, but the station is fairly new. Thats when the problems began. 

    Again, as soon as the thermostat opened up, the truck had trouble idling, it rattled, shook, gasped, and lurched. I had trouble shifting. Everything was almost like my previous issue, with a few more problems added on. Now, I can hear a whisle coming from the air intake area, almost like a vacuum line has a hole in it. Also, when I have trouble shifting and I DO NOT back off the gas and put the hammer down, I can hear knocking noises coming from the engine compartment. This subsides when I let off the gas and take off. 

    Guys, this is killing me. Of course, there is no engine light, so no codes can be read. My oil and the like looks good. The fuel filter was my first guess, but that part is non-servicable. I'm a broke college student, who it seems, needs to stop going to hardware stores. 
  • I finally have an answer!!!!!  5 months ago my 1996 Dakota started dying while idling at a stop light or driving down the road, totally at random.  I would drop it into neutral and it would start right back up.  I started having what seems to be the most popular things replaced.  (After reading many different blogs including this one) But nothing fixed the problem.  Last night I read a post by a man named Ed Hennessy (I must give him the credit). He said it was a Bad SPEED SENSOR and that the computer couldn't tell if the truck was moving or not and shut it down.  Today I bought one at ORielly's for 36 bucks and had it installed.  The old one had transmission fluid in it and had seeped into the sensor and even the wires.  PLEASE CHECK THIS FIRST!!!!!  She now runs like a dream.  I knew that it had to be something simple because she runs so good.  Hope this helps.

    if your Dakota starts dying only when you try to go in reverse believe it or not your battery needs to be replaced.  I learned that one years ago.  That was a "you have to be kidding me moment"  :)
  • P.s.  I also had NO check engine light or codes of any kind.
  • Hey guys I need some serious help I have a 1990 dodge Dakota 3.9 V6 auto 4x4. When I put the truck in reverse or sometimes in drive but definitely in reverse, the truck will bind up and shake and the motor will try increasing rpms until it abruptly dies . This is all while I'm just holding the brakes or some times when I put it in forward gears. Its like im holding the brakes and hitting the gas at the same time but with more binding going on. I just had the transmission rebuilt and its still doing it any ideas of what it could be?
  • i have 87 dodge dokota after about ten miles it bogs down when accelerating keeps oing slower and slower at that point and can pull over and dones e same thing. Has new carb. New distributor roter spark plugs and wire and pick up coil fuel filter im at a loss any ideas
  • I have a 1996 Dakota 3.9 with 258000 miles and still all original internal components. I have had misfiring issues, trans shift issues, ghost radio issue, horn issues headlight issues, gauge issues. I have been chasing these problems for years on my truck. After replacing many sensors with no resolution I found a couple of simple things to check yourself.

    First to address the problem of dying when coming to a stop:
    This will most likely be the IAC positioning to maintain the idle while stopped, in gear or not, with AC on or off. The IAC adjusts for the load on the engine. Simply remove the 2 torx 20 screws and clean the tip of the IAC with carb cleaner and wire brush. Then clean inside the hole with carb cleaner and a rag using a screwdriver to turn the rag and clean the seat for the IAC. Also on my intake on the passenger side I found a vacuum nipple with a hose not connected to anything and the vacuum diagram showed it plugged. This will affect the idle if you have a vacuum leak as the IAC will not position properly due to the leak.

    OK next for the issue of random dying, no codes and a variety of sensors being pointed at:
    Think about this; every sensor has to have power and ground to work properly. Many sensors have a third wire which sends a signal to the computer to control the engine. If you have a ground problem you will have a never ending variety of codes that will point to a sensor or the signal of that sensor not being correct and you may or may not set a code depending on the ground path at that time.

    No cost solution: Look around the engine compartment starting at the batt; follow the ground wire to the block and remove the connection; clean with a wire brush the block and ring terminal on both sides till it is shiny; then clean the bolt before you put back in place and tighten, Also you will find several smaller ground wire connections in the engine compartment; remove each of these and do the same. Take note that under the terminal connection on the fender, firewall and other locations the paint has not been removed. The only way the wire connects to ground is by the threads made by the screw holding the wire terminal in place. Removing the paint with some 40 grit sandpaper or other similar method will further improve the ground connection. Use a small amount of wheel bearing grease on the connections to prevent moisture and corrosion from developing in the future.

    After you have done these two things you may want to disconnect the batt negative terminal and clean the connection there, this should clear any codes and you will be starting out with a clean slate no codes. Go to your local parts store and have the codes read to make sure. Now any codes that set should be more accurate.

    Remember if you don't have a good ground, you don't have a good electrical circuit.
    Good luck to all, I hope this will help solve some of the problems shared by so many.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Thanks for posting those excellent suggestions. Bad grounds are the source of many problems we see on modern cars.
  • Hello and Merry Christmas, I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9L V6 Extended Cab 2x2 Last month I changed the Distributor Cap, Rotor, Plug Wires, Coil Wire, and Spark Plugs, I didn't cheap out I bought the good stuff..lol But this past Monday on my way home from work I was driving down I-96 & Telegraph and the truck didn't give me any notice or any warning what so ever, It just shut off or died. So i get it off the Freeway off ramp thanks to the Officer who help me Push it.. and I find out i am getting no spark what so ever. The fuel pump is coming on but im getting NO SPARK.. i even put my finger on the top of a new plug into the end of the wire to see if maybe it was weak spark... Nope. Nothing at all... Someone told me Crank Sensor, Someone told me Ignition Coil... What would cause it just to stop sparking ? If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate any help and input on this situation...Please... Thankyou ! Sincerely Matt
  • My 97 Dodge Dakota 3.9L would cut off when I was at a stoplight or stop sign after you first started it up for the day. If I shifted it to park real quick, it would stay on, and after driving for a bit, it wouldnt cut off when I stopped anymore. It did this for the longest time, and so finally I decided to do some research, and the cheapest possible solution I could find was cleaning the throttle body. All I did was take the cover off, pulled the throttle switch so it would open, and sprayed a generous amount of throttle body cleaner into it, and of course took a rag and a screwdriver and pushed the rag down in it and scrubbed a bit. When you do this, you will have to keep your foot on the gas a little bit in order to start it and will have to do this until it can once again sit and idle on its own. A LOT of white smoke will come out of the exhaust, but that's due to the cleaner burning off so don't let that alarm you. After driving it a bit more that day, then letting it sit overnight until the next day in the afternoon, I drove it and it did not ONCE stall out or act like it was going to. Given that it would do this EVERYDAY when first started, I'm hoping that this did the trick and this issue will not return. It is a VERY simple procedure too, so do not waste your money taking it to a mechanic. If the issue returns I will come back and let you guys know, but I'm thinking it won't or it would have stalled on me earlier.
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