Transmission Traumas?

1…1718202223…48

Comments

  • wilcoxwilcox Member Posts: 582
    check this out.

    Went over to K Mart in my town. Wanted some Dextron III fluid. They had none on the shelf. I found the "boy" who said he was in charge of Auto. He said that they haven't had any of that for three months....all they have is the type for Chrysler products. He said Corporate persons were the blame for the product not being on the shelf. Horseshit!

    My reply was that I predicted that K Mart would be going out of business soon. Any place that has no communication betweed the workers and the buyers will not survive. They have a tremendous Management problem at the store level...and probably higher.. It is as much the "boy's" fault as it is "corporate's" fault that Dextron III is missing from shelf. There's plenty of "apathy" laying around there...

    Of course WalMart had shelves full...with two brands to choose from. Sheesh.. $1.22 or $1.88...take your choice!
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    The same with Chevrolet Malibu. Transmission fluid is not user-servicable item. Impossible to check its level at home.
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    My dad has a 96 Chev 1 ton truck with auto tranny, (I assume it is a 4L80). Now that it is summer he states he has no first gear when the engine an tranny get warmed up. First gear is fine when tranny temp is cool.
    Any guesses as to probable problem would be nice. Thanks, Chris.
  • mypetduckmypetduck Member Posts: 1
    My early 98 SE (I bought it in 9/97) has the annoying habit of not letting me into 4th from 5th at highway speeds - I can't even find it. This happens about 50-75% of the time and is usually so distracting as to be dangerous - not only does it take my attention from the road, but I find myself having to get back into 5th at a seriously lower engine speed (which is still too high for 3rd) in order to get power back to the drivetrain and regain control.

    Has anyone else had similar issues? I've heard here and there that this transmission is generally a poor one. If this is the case, why hasn't Jeep extended the warranty on it in the same way they extended the warranty on the manifold cover?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    It sounds as if the forward clutch seals are leaking. ATF becomes less viscous (thinner) as it heats up, and will leak past worn seals which would hold pressure when the fluid's colder and thicker. The only way to diagnose it properly would be by putting a pressure gauge on the transmission and looking for a pressure drop when it warms up.
  • dph6dph6 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '91 Accord DX, 4-speed auto trans. It began revving higher before lower-speed shifts, and won't sit at the proper RPMs at higher speeds -- usually between 60-65 mph it downshifts suddenly, jumps about 400 RPMs. It's also generally louder, rattles more, etc.

    Here's the kicker: it all started when the tech put on a new timing belt. Why would changing the timing belt have anything to do with that?

    Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Maybe its out of time,the computer uses power information to shift.
  • wingingedwinginged Member Posts: 1
    My 1996 Dodge Caravan suddenly has no reverse. It is the 4sp automatic trans. When I shift to reverse I hear the solonoid ratchet sound, but it's not as loud as it is when I shift to drive. I am suspicious of the solonoid pack on the side of the transmission, does this make sense that the solonoid for reverse would go out? Thanks
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Chrysler overdrive transaxles don't use a solenoid for Reverse or Second, those ranges are strictly hydraulic pressure. In fact, limp in mode (when the controller or solenoid pack bites the dust) results in Reverse and Second only. If all but reverse are OK, it's probably a split seal in the reverse clutch. Can be checked easily by anyone with a Snap-on scanner connected to the transaxle diagnostic port near the inside fuse panel, NOT the engine diagnostic connector under the hood. Look for a high CVI or clutch volume index.
  • vrarunvrarun Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    I have a 98 Civic EX (automatic) and suddenly it developed transmission problem. When I change gear from Parking or when it automatically changes gear while driving, it gives a big jerk. On taking to the dealer, we found out that the transmission is bad and need to be replaced (costs around $4000). Has anybody faced such a problem with 98 Civic or any relatively new car. Also, what shud I do with the car. Fix it or drive with it etc.. Please advice.

    Thanks
    Venky

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Take it to a good independent transmission shop & not a national chain for a second opinion.
  • bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    WOW what a price-never go near that guy again. For a 10th of that-get one out of a wrecked Civic.

    Stay away from that crook.
  • mogasmogas Member Posts: 8
    OMG! 4K for a transmission?! You can almost buy a new engine with transmission for that money! As said above, go to a tranny specialist or a non-dealer Honda/Accura mechanic. 4000 bucks is just nuts.
  • milsuperdocmilsuperdoc Member Posts: 29
    Hello, ya'll! I found this forum very informative, and this is my first post at this topic.

    I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L V-8 Limited with 102K trouble free miles. Now, a low pitch/frequency growling noise occurs with vibration when moving at 58 to 65 mph from the front end area independent of turning or moving in straight direction. The noise and vibration are worst at about 62 mph with accelerator only slightly depressed. Noise and vibration goes away completely during coasting or hard acceleration, or at any other speed.

    My mechanic checked the wheel bearings, drive shaft, CV joints/boots, pinion oil seal, front axles, front differential, universal joint, motor mounts, and other possible sources. He found no obvious problems with them. The transmission, and both front and rear differential services were completed recently with appropriate fluids/oil. My mechanic thinks that the vibration and noise may be coming from the TRANSFER CASE.

    What do all of you think? What do you think I should do next? Any input would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks!
  • fear_hopefear_hope Member Posts: 90
    In the last month my '99 Chevy Venture has been experiencing hard shifts. Mostly on upshifts, but occasionally on downshifts also. This rough shifting is intermittent. Last week I had transmission service at the dealership where I purchased the vehicle, filter and gasket change and about 5-6 quarts of Dextron III transmission fluid. My auto has 55,000 miles on it. Does anyone have any ideas? What should be my next step in resolving this? Thanks in advance!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    This GM service bulliten might apply to your vehicle:

    TSB # 01-07-30-023A
    Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
    1996 Buick Roadmaster
    1996 Cadillac Fleetwood
    1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
    1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette
    1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird
    1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Truck Models
    1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada
    with 4L60-E Automatic Transmission (RPO M30)
    Built Prior to January 15, 1999 (Julian Date 9015)
    This bulletin is being revised to update the Parts Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023 (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle).
    Condition
    Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
    Diagnosis
    Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this condition occurs.
    The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
    A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93°C (200°F).
    Cause
    The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.

    Important
    DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
    When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
    This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive cycle).
    When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is stored as a history code.
    When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
    Correction
    Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15, 1999 (Julian Date 9015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain revised TCC regulator and isolator valves.

    Important
    If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
    Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
    The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
    The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor.
    The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal fragments
  • opera_house_wkopera_house_wk Member Posts: 326
    I noticed my Ford specifies Mercon V for the transmission but as far as a specification it just says Mercon in the manual. Dextron III bottles give a Ford specification # (which Ford didn't include in the manual) and approval number. So technically anything that says Mercon could be put in place of Mercon V. I assume Mercon V is a little more "synthetic" but is it that much better for double the price? Previously it was hard to find on the shelves and people were probably pouring in Dextron III instead.
  • ebbmcebbmc Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone.I recently purchased a 93 tempo with a 2.3 automatic.It was upshifting and downshifting kind of hard.Also the up shift to 3rd gear seemed to be to high.When hitting the gas it also didn`t drop into passing gear.Last night I read all the post on this board and decided I should change the filter and fluid and add lubegard.On the way to get filter and supples I lost 2nd and 3rd gears.I stoped to check the fluid and it was fine.Limped home at 10 miles an hr.Crawled under the car and I do have a slow leak but the fluid level is still fine.My thought is to go ahead with the fluid change and see what happens.I have a 89 tempo with the same 2.3 engine that had a fire under the hood but do`nt know if its the same transmission or not?Have never done one but it dos`nt look to hard.Also do`nt know the milage on the 93 as when registering the car I was told the milage was not correct.Also the fluid looked clean and was not burnt.Thanks for any imput and advice.
    Ebb
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    I replied to your email request for GM trans info but it was returned twice as "550 unknown user". Here's the info you were after:

    General Motors Corporate Product Service Bulletin #01-07-30-023B
    Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
    1996 Buick Roadmaster
    1996 Cadillac Fleetwood
    1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
    1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette
    1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird
    1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Truck Models
    1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic Transmission (RPO M30)
    Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
    This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle).
    Condition
    Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
    Diagnosis
    Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this condition occurs.
    The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
    A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93°C (200°F).
    Cause
    The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
    Important
    DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO CONSECUTIVE TRIPS
    (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
    When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result. This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive cycle).
    When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is stored as a history code.
    When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
    Correction
    Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts Information table below.
    These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain revised TCC regulator and isolator valves.
    Important
    If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace additional transmission
    components beyond the control valve body.
    Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
    The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
    The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor.
    The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal fragments).
  • stubborn1stubborn1 Member Posts: 85
    I have a 98 Explorer 4wd (automatic) with about 92k miles on it. Last night, I parked on a slight incline and did not apply the parking brake. The vehicle moved backwards and stopped. I second later I heard a groaning noise and the vehicle moved slightly back again. This happened one more time before finally stopping. The grade I was parked on was not very steep and I would not normally apply a parking brake in this situation.

    I know that the torque convertor locks on auto trannies when put into park. Is this a symptom that my tranny is starting to go?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The torque converter doesn't lock in any automatic transmission when shifted into Park. The output shaft is locked to the transmission case by the parking pawl, preventing the output shaft from rotating. The groan you heard was probably you easing off the brake pedal and the brakes releasing.
  • masonmimasonmi Member Posts: 148
    I have a 2002 Buick Century and I noticed that if I take my foot off the gas pedal between 30 and 35 mph then suddenly depress my foot back onto the gas pedal I hear sort of a click noise which isn't very loud, does anyone know if this is normal? i've got about 20,000 miles on the car and otherwise it seems to shift fine. any suggestions?
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Does the Explorer move almost immediately after placing it in park? Or does it move minutes or hours later? You mentioned it being an automatic 4wd. Are you saying an auto tranny with a true 4wd system, or do you have one of those AWD systems?
  • stubborn1stubborn1 Member Posts: 85
    The Explorer has a 4wd selector switch and is not AWD. When I put the vehicle in park and let off the brake, it settles back where is rests. The slipping and noise occurs a few seconds later. The vehicle slips about two times before totally stopping. I haven't really checked to see if it will slide more because I have been using my parking brake all the time now.

    I'm also having a separate problem with the torque convertor not releasing soon enough in OD. If I have to push it to go up a steep hill, I hear vibrations from the area of the transmission. The RPMs don't increase therefore I'm assuming the torque convertor is still locked. If I really push it hard, it will unlock a second before downshifting.

    Time to bite the bullet and take it to a tranny shop.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    A correct application of Lubegard couldn't hurt. How often has this transmission had a drain and fill?
  • stubborn1stubborn1 Member Posts: 85
    ... about 3k miles ago. I bought the vehicle with about 89k miles on it and had the tranny fluid flushed and filled right away. The vehicle didn't have any maintenance records. I checked the tranny fluid and it was a tad on the dark side, but not too bad. It didn't smell burnt either.

    I guess that's the risk you take with a used vehicle.
  • bnosytbnosyt Member Posts: 23
    I have a 1997 Chevy 1500, Auto. trans., 4X4 pickup with approx. 106,000 miles. When I am driving and I come to a stoplight or stopsign and I slow down to stop, the truck seems to quickly slow down (like it is hanging in a gear) and makes a relatively loud clunk. I tried this in Drive, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st. It only makes the clunk in Drive and 3rd. If anybody has experience with a problem like this, I would appreciate your help. I don't really know if this is "normal", or if there is a major problem.

    Thanks!

    bnosyt
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    mrdetailer is right, put in a bottle of Lubeguard. Sounds to me like you have the infamous TC shudder. As far as the moving backwards goes, do you hear any noise when it happens. The parking mechanism is a mechanical one, alcan explained it. Everytime I have ever watched a car move while in park, I could hear the distinct sound of metal on metal while gear teeth were being sheared off. Not a pleasant sound!
  • fear_hopefear_hope Member Posts: 90
    Thanks so much for the info/TSB post. Although my check engine light never illuminated, that was the exact problem. I had it diagnosed today. Five hours labor at $68 per hour, $92 for the part, $17 for the extra fluid, plus tax for a total of about $500. It is a shame GM makes some of the best trannys in the industry and then adds crap parts to them. TOYOTA HERE I COME!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Glad you found the info. Wasn't able to email it to you. Don't give up totally on GM, every manufacturer has a glitch now and then. Good to hear you got it resolved, though.
  • masonmimasonmi Member Posts: 148
    I posted earlier however i'll repost again, I seem to have a clunk or shudder noise after taking my foot off the gas pedal when going at lower speeds is this normal? sometimes i'll even hear it if I speed up between gears, has anyone had this problem?
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Probably just drive line slack. A certain small amount is normal. Mine does it alot, but I have a HD truck with a manual, so I expect it.
  • opera_house_wkopera_house_wk Member Posts: 326
    I just changed fluid on my 97 Explorer 5R55E with 120K. I has a shudder sometimes, maybe TC slip. After removing filter, I decided to see if the bolts were tight on the valve plate. Every bolt could be easily turned at least 1/8 turn using only a little 1/4 inch T-handle wrench. I have never heard that they should be checked. Seems a better idea than putting in additives so the gaskets will swell. I did add some Lucas. Hope this isn't just pink STP for $9. See how it works out next week. Any one else ever tighten these bolts?
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    My wife's Cougar is starting to shudder again on TC lockup. I'll check those. Post what happens.
  • rshinnrshinn Member Posts: 5
    My parents have a 95 Ford Thunderbird V-8 (auto)
    with 66K miles. Occaisionally a sound like driving over highway rumble strips occurs. Anyone experience this in a Ford product? Could
    this be a Torque Converter problem? Thanks.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Does it only do it at TC lockup?
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I've got an interesting problem with my wife's '99 Olds. Van with 3.4 litre v6. Van has 88k miles and has shifted rough since we bought it 16k miles and 13 months ago. I finally took it in to the dealer on Tuesday. They got a code (It was 1811) and said they would try to update the software for shift quality. Only $65 and it worked great! for 2 whole days. Now they want to drop the tranny and go through it to diagnose. LABOR will be $500 to $1600 depending on what is wrong plus parts. Doesn't it seem odd that it shifted like a new car for 2 days (about 110 miles of city driving) then went back to its old tricks? I find it hard to believe that its not an electrical or computer problem. If the tranny is bad how could it magically work fine for 2 days after the software update? We drove it just like we always do during this time period - we weren't babying it. Thanks for any advice.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    There is TSB 00-07-30-002B that addresses this problem,hard shifts & code P1811 set.In the short sludge in valve body causing one or more valves to stick,so its a known problem.It mentions replace Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assy P/N 10478146.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    Where does one go to get the details of the TSB you mentioned? I'd like to be able to print it off and bring it in to the service dept. Thanks for the good info.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I actually found a site (www.service.gm.com)that listed the Bulletins that came out for each month. I found 00-07-002A in Sept. 2000 bulletins but could never find a "b" to replace it. Also - this was just a quick review of the bulletin. How do you get the actual detailed bulletin?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Tell your dealer you want to see a copy as it pertains to your problem.You have the # go for it.
  • lorinhlorinh Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 Pontiac Transport and every once in a while will shift real hard, and the check engine light comes on. If I shut the van off for 5 min. and start again it will be fine. Sometimes I can drive for 500 miles before it happens again or sometimes only 50 miles. Check engine light only stays on a day or 2. Don't know the code but dealer says torque converter clutch stuck open, and wants to tear it apart. Sounds more electrical than anything to me.
    Problem sounds similar to jonbgood, so if you have any more insight or solution to this problem I would appreciate it!
  • rward99rward99 Member Posts: 185
    I don't how to describe my potential problem other than a 'ringing' sound when the engine is lugging. It is an '89 Toyota pickup with V-6 and 5 speed stick. It shifts in all the gears,and pulls my boat forward fine. No problem coming up the boat ramp. But if I lug around a corner, or come down to only second gear and then start accelerating again, I get a ringing sound out of the tranny. The sound is louder when I'm towing the boat, but even without it I still get the noise.

    In reverse, when backing up under a load (like pushing my boat uphill into the garage) it sounds like a gear is trying to strike another gear, although it still goes uphill OK. But the sounds are getting louder since the spring.

    The truck has 187K and the original clutch. Transmission fluid has been changed according to schedule, including the differential. Last changed the fluid just 10K ago, at the dealership.

    Any clues?

    Thanks
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Well, first of all, try not to let it "lug".

    That's hard on any transmission. My guess is that after 187,000 miles the transmission is getting pretty worn out and probably needs an overhaul. Do the clutch, of course, at the same time.

    Or you could just let it go...could last a long time.
  • forklift123forklift123 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1994 Eagle Vision, got it for 700.00 cause it has a problem getting hung up in first gear once in awhile. Also sometimes when you first start it, it won't go into reverse till it warms up. My son changed tranny fluid and filter, put a tranny cooler on it and changed the thermstat, but it's still having problems, my question is could it be the servo and if it is, would the whole tranny have to come out and be torn down? Would a shift kit give it more pressure, would that help? It has 173000 miles, but is in almost mint condition, if I have to replace tranny, fine, but am wondering if that's necessary just because of high mileage.
  • ewalterewalter Member Posts: 14
    while at standstill it is frequently impossible to engage 1st or 2nd gear unless I go through 3rd and 4th and then back to 1st or 2nd. While driving I have no problem with moving from 1st into 2nd and higher gear. Car has 71000 miles. Any comment/suggestions? Eric
  • jc1973jc1973 Member Posts: 63
    hi all just bought a 91 caravan 3.3 v6 and ultradrive tranny has 200000 miles on same tranny without ever being touched is it really possible to get this with a tranny that usually cant go past 60000
  • terceltom1terceltom1 Member Posts: 150
    I am one of the many who needed a new trans. installed in my "94" Plymouth Voyager. This trans. was installed just two days ago. It is a remanufactured from Chrysler. My question is when I put my hand on the bottom of the new trans. or anywhere on the trans. after about a 20 min. drive the new trans. is extremely hot to the touch. Is this normal??? It seems to be working O.K. with nothing other then a very slight hissing sound in neutral.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I suppose it is reasonable to assume that either wear and tear, or shifter adjustment slippage is giving you your symptoms. I can imagine a gear box in which the gears are slightly out of proper disengagement resting positions on their shafts, due to the shifter mechanism being worn to where it "slops" a bit running through the gates. This leads to synchronizers not functioning with quite the precision or timing needed for full smoothness. After tiring from the mere suggestion of tearing into that with wrenches, I'd opt first to drain and refill that balking box with some variety of top notch synthetic tranny lube/fluid such as those available from RedLine. I would suggest that you find out what the transmission fluid specifications are for your car, and go synthetic. If that doesn't do it, you may have to go the hard way.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    If it feels like about 200*F its normal.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.