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If not, and for all others having the same problem it can be resolved for under $5.00 (yes five dollars) if you are mechanically inclined and prepared to spend about an hour or maybe two.
A cold beer at hand does help.
The problem is caused by a worn or broken linkage bush assembly connecting the gear stick to the forward running linkage cables to the gearbox.
In this case the driver side bush is worn or broken, affecting the reverse gear which can no longer get past the gate.
If the passenger side linkage bush breaks (and it will) then first or second gear will not engage.
Chrysler Dodge should have a linkage bush assembly replacement kit but they don't.
With a kit one would be able to repair the linkages at the bottom of the gear stick in about 15 minutes.
Repair means building a replacement bush oneself using the old broken pieces as the model.
If the old pieces are too far gone the bush can be quite easily calculated and manufactured out of a piece of suitable diameter nylon or heavy rubber hose cut to size.
I used fuel hose this time but I forget what I used on the other side.
A metal or nylon washer on each side of the linkage keeps the new bush in place.
A spring clip or a spring washer is needed to close the end of the rod holding whole at the bottom of the gear stick.
I was able to find most of the parts in my garage but all can be purchased for under five bucks at your nearest auto parts shop.
Removal of the console is not too difficult.
There are four screws (2 front and two back) beneath small round covers which need to be carefully lifted out with a screwdriver.
Move the seats back and the handbrake should pulled up as far as it will go.
Lift the console up from the back therafter it can be firmly but carefully pulled upwards and out past the gear stick and brake lever.
The gear stick may need to be pulled all the way backwards or all the way forwards during the upwards manoever.
Replacement is in reverse taking care to keep the seatbelt anchors out of the way or you will have to remove the whole thing again.
Patience and calm are essential.
The Neon is a fantastic little car to drive and looks great, but things break too easily due to poor quality.
Why is it not possible to match the quality of Honda and Toyota.....?
Fortunately ours does little mileage each year so we will hang on as long as we can.
If it's the 3 speed AXT transaxle, the most common cause of that problem is the transaxle oil pump drive shaft splines sheared off. The pump stops turning and trans line pressure drops to zero. Easy way to diagnose it, hook up an oil pressure gauge to the trans line pressure test port. If no pressure, the pump can be accessed and the shaft replaced.
Can anyone help please?
Thanks, Roy. :confuse:
If idling, I would suggest a loose flex plate at the transmission torque converter.
If when moving, I would suggest a bad u-joint.
I hate to just take it to a transmission repair repair shop if I can do it myself. I am hoping it isnt wrecked!
John
My 1989 Cadillac Brougham (RWD) apopears to have developed a significant coolant leak. The car runs fine and doesn't appear to overheat. I have seen a small puddle of coolant on the floor of my garage and the leak appears to be coming from a spot between the rear edge of the oil pan and the leading edge of the transmission bell housing.
What is wrong?
What are the best-case and worst-case scenarios?
What must be done?
How much will this repair cost?
The car is in otherwise extremely good condition so I want to keep it regardless of it's age.
Could this be a transmission problem or something easier? PLEASE HELP ME!! THANK YOU anyone!!
Thanks in advance!
The front pump seal is leaking which requires careful attention to the ATF level. Other than the seal leak, I don't have any symptoms of an impending transmission failue. But, I know it's time to look at repair or a rebuild.
The local Dodge dealer wants $2600 installed for a remanufactured transmission. AAMCO's estimate to rebuilt the existing transmission is from $1200 to $1700. A local independent shop with 30 years in the business quoted me $1440 total to also rebuild the existing transmission.
Any suggestions on the above options - using a remanufactured replacement or rebuilding the original? I've heard some horror stories regarding AAMCO, but I also know that opinion can vary depending on the franchised shop. I'm leaning toward going with the independent shop.
Thanks.
Trust me on this one!
A vacuum gauge connected to any convenient manifold vacuum source usually works.
Thanks in advance!
-R
Second, if it's grinding when shifting into a single gear range only it's usually a symptom of a defective synchronizer ring. Requires transmission removal and disassembly to correct.
I was looking around on the internet and it said that on the pasenger side kick panel, there is a plug thing that you can stick a paperclip chaped like a "c" into the plug and it will make your dash display the flashing "S3" lights......I'm going to see if I have one of those plugs and hopefully I won't have to take out the seat...
Thanks again for all the input.
Thank you so much for your help. I got the codes figured out this morning. I had 7 quick blinks, a 2 1/2 second pause, then 8 more quick blinks. This is translated into a code 7 AND a code 8 right?
I am going to do some more research online to see if there is a faulty code book that I can translate my codes into.
Once again, thank you for your help.
Oh, I didn't even have to take the seat out or wait for the light on the dash to start flashing again. All I did was turn the key to the accessory mode, look under the passenger's seat from the back seat, and the LED light was right there flashing before my very eyes!!!