Transmission Traumas?

peggy690 · January 2008

I need to replace my speed sensor in the transmission. I can get the part but don't know where it goes. Can you help me with this?

burdawg · January 2008

If you would give us some idea what make/model your dealing with then maybe the right person with some knowledge of it will chime in.

Mr_Shiftright · January 2008

year, make, model, engine size please!

peggy690 · January 2008

My car is a 2003 Chevy Cavalier. Engine size I know it is a 4 cylinder I hope this helps you. Thanks

Mr_Shiftright · January 2008

Okay---Peggy's original question on her 2003 Chevy Cavalier I-4 automatic was:

"I need to replace my speed sensor in the transmission. I can get the part but don't know where it goes. Can you help me with this?"

imidazol97 · January 2008

If you're sure you've got the right diagnosis here's a sketch of location. Notice it's on the BACK of the motor the way I read the picture. The article suggests it needs to be on a lift to reach it. Remember to use jack stands if you get under the car.

This is a 1992 Cavalier.

1992 Cavalier

peggy690 · January 2008

Thank you we will try that. I took it to the chevy dealer last week and they put it on the computer. They want to charge me 1188.99 to fix it. So we are going to try it ourself. Sure hope we can do it. The part is only 15.98. Thanks again for your help.

imidazol97 · January 2008

I posted something I found for 1992. I confused the year. It's a 2003.

When I searched again for 2003 I found a couple people who replaced their clusters to fix a problem where the speedometer didn't want to work at times. Is that your problem?

meeshelle06 · January 2008

Hi, need to find out if to replace transmission or see if it can give me at least 10,000 more miles...FYI know a little about cars
Issues: was told the clutch was slipping, car drives fine on highway but seems like i switch to like neutral when i stop at a stoplight, gives a hard jump and then pulls off....NOW, it has gotten worse.....it wouldn't really go pass 40 today and when i slow down, the car will start shaking and then shuts off. i start it up again, let it warm up good(MN weather), it shoke a little and then drove okay, no problem on highway, just local traffic stop and go areas...it's beginning to jerk alot
took car to tranmission shop today, they test drove it and said replace it...should i have another shop do a more thorough inspection...

Also, brakes and tires are good, but it feels as if i have not much control when the road is wet or slippery..i was told b/c the clutch is slipping....

Thanks a bunch

peggy690 · January 2008

no they tell me it is the speed sensor for the transmission. It started slipping the other day and the engine lite came on so I took it to the dealership and they put it on the computer according to them it showed it was my speed sensor. they wanted to charge me 1188.99 to fix it. I don't have that kind of money so I took it home and parked it am hoping to fix it with a little help from some of my family. I just don't know where it is located in the car.Thanks for your help I really appreciate it any more info would be greatly appreciated.

oldfarmer50 · January 2008

About a week ago I had just pulled out of my driveway and noticed that my car did not seem to be upshifting. It seemed to stay in 2nd gear as I approached 40. I let off of the gas and it upshifted to third but was then sluggish going into 4th.

After about two miles it began shifting normally and has continued to do so ever since. Fluid levels are normal. I'm wondering could this just have been some random electronic glitch or something more.

The car has about 100K on it. The only transmission repair I've ever done is to replace the solenoid pack about 18 months ago. I change the fluid about every 30K.

imidazol97 · January 2008

I would take it to a referral car shop that has done transmission work and see what they say about the replacement and the cost. I have no idea if the dealer is ripping you off or if the motor and trans need pulled to get at the device.

You can do searching for speed sensor transmission cavalier 2003 and see if you get any hits. You might find somewhere that has people more familiar with the car and the problem.

Cavalier speedometer

Cavalier

anointed · January 2008

I need to change transmission oil where and how do I refill , I have tried to purchase 2001 repair manual can not find maual. I am on fixed imcome cannot afford to take trooper to the dealer

Thanks
Hou. Tx

imidazol97 · January 2008

If you want a real manual, I'd recommend Helminc.com. Helm prints the repair shop manuals for years for many brands. That includes Izusu. It's 163.00 and says print to order. I'm not sure what that means but it might be worth a call to them.

link title

This is a link to the only repair manual I found for isuzu trooper on Ebay. It says it's a CD and you can print from it.

IN Helm they call the service manual the Workshop manual.

I'd recommend getting an authentic manual and not a Motors, Haynes, etc., that you find on the shelves at the local autoparts stores.

Check Amazon.com books and other sources for the manuals.

0patience · January 2008

Gonna add my 2 cents where it doesn't belong.
The question about ATRA and their credibility.

ATRA is one of the leading transmission expert groups.

It makes me wonder about the claims when they state that anything the consumer can buy is bad and the only good additives would be found sold by professional shops. Are they sounding their own horn for profit?
No.

jhny_777 · February 2008

tranny leaking from weep hole in dust cover.beleive it's 4l80e.i have a 93 GMC truck both are 2500 modle or 3/4 ton will these interchange as the truck tranny was rebuilt last year at a price of 1800.00.then oil pump went out and dropped a piston.I'm thinking SWAP.are they compatible?Thanks in advance for any help.jhny

confused54 · February 2008

hello, i have a 94 infinity q94t. when the car is cold the trans does not engage into gear when it is shifted to the d position. it will drop into gear when shifted into 3 position. also once you get driving it will not shift from 2 to 3 unless you wind it up to about 4k rpm and let off the gas to make it shift. once the car is warmed up it shifts perfectly the rest of the day. it has 162k miles and was serviced at about 75k and again at 160k. the fluid was very clean both times and no unusual smells. i have not been able to get any codes on the onboard computer test. any help with this problem would greatly appreciated.

rhtrans · February 2008

Not sure whats in a q94 but i can only assume its a rwd.. If so..you probably have 2 different problems but both internal. A no movement in drive when cold can only be a mechanical problem. you can unplug everything on the trans and it would still get an engagement. A no 2-3 shift when cold is probably do to a stuck shift valve from an internal failure. None of these issues would probably not even set codes. Even though the fluid looked clean...very fine particles of metal are hard to see unless in the sunlight. Nissan trans are easily contaminated and the valves easily stick. You would have to hook a voltmeter to the shift solenoid wires to confirm the computer is commanding an upshift to third to confirm because nissan computers then did not have a data line for that.

daho78 · February 2008

Apparantly your prospective buyer isnt all that knowledgeable. Any backyard mechanic, let alone a "knowledgeable" mechanic knows that there is a magnet placed in the transmission pan for an easy check to see if there is unusual wear/breakage when accessing the filter. But the simple answer is yes, its supposed to be there.

budman17 · February 2008

I'm having problem with automatic transaxle. When I start out the transmission slips and RPM's increase and get wheel chatter on the passenger side. I turned off the trac control help some with problem with the wheel chatter. I change the transmission filter and fluid. Which help some. When the car is cold it seems to slip some but when it's warmed up after driving some time the slippage seems not as bad when cold.

fabunmi · February 2008

My 2000 Honda Accord Automatic gear, do not always change gear in the evening. It use to work normal in the morning through afternoon, but any thing by 6pm in the evening it will not change gear, what is happening to my car?

anointed · February 2008

02/25/08

I need help how to change transmission oil 2001 trooper 3.5 I see oil around pan How do I change and refill Please help, Donot have money to take to a dealership

Mr_Shiftright · February 2008

I THINK (but I'm not sure) you have the transmission that has two drain plugs, one higher up than the other. One (the higher up one) is the overfill plug and the lower one is the drain plug. There is no dipstick or filler pipe.

This is a real pain to do by yourself. I would recommend going to a competent independent shop, not a dealer. You really need a lift to do this job, as you have to do everything from underneath the car.

isellhondas · February 2008

If you have a leak, changing the fluid isn't going to do anything for you.

You need to have a shop put it on a rack to determine where that leak is coming from.

anointed · February 2008

Thank you. The pan is just wet it is not leaking on the ground

anointed · February 2008

Yes you are right and I will take it to a dependent repair service

Thank you

kitchenwitch · February 2008

Would anyone have an idea where the computer for my transmission would be at? Or where I could find a diagram for my transmission on line? I have had my little car for almost two years. She runs great, but sometimes I will be driving down the road and she will red line. I loose third/overdrive. When I step on the brakes she kicks down hard. I can pull over, put in park and turn off the car. Wait about three to four seconds and I have no more problems, sometimes. There has been a time or two when I would have to do this like twice in a row before it stops. Then it won't happen for weeks, then all of a sudden it happens again. Someone told me that it might be electrical, or the computer. Any idea out there to help me out?
Thanks Kim

bama1979 · February 2008

Today I was driving my truck (1996 Ford F-150/2wd/Automatic/4.9/Inline-6 cylinder) and all of a sudden the transmission started shifting rough and the engine revs up alot higher before it shifts. Also my speedometer quit working along with my odometer. The odometer is a electronic display and there's nothing at all displayed when the truck is running, and the speedometer needle simply doesn't function. I looked in the fuse panel to check some fuses and there was one that was blown. This is what the fuse is for--

Electronic shift module 4WD;Speedometer;Air Bag restraint;Automatic Transmission shift interlock;Automatic Day/Night mirror

Keep in mind my truck is 2 wheel drive. But when I replaced the fuse, the new one blew when I cranked the truck up and test drove it. I checked the transmission fluid level and it was normal. I haven't changed the transmission filter in some time, I don't know if that has anything to do with it. If anybody has an idea what happened here, I would be very grateful for any help.
Thanks,

Mr_Shiftright · February 2008

Your problem could be electrical or internal. Diagnostics is the only way to know. Unfortunately your model does not have OBD-II diagnostics, only OBD-I, which is much more limited. Still if you can get the computer scanned, it might tell you something.

Also, here's a link to a complete set of factory manuals for your car. A bit pricey, but they will tell you a lot of what you need to know, and they could pay for themselves now and in the future.

95 Avenger Factory Manuals

Mr_Shiftright · February 2008

This question has already been posted in our Answers Department and should be addressed over there. There is response already in Answers.

http://answers.edmunds.com/question-Why-transmission-speedometer-suddenly-functi- oning-properly-6408.aspx

rikkilee2000 · March 2008

The van accelerates from a stop in first gear fine but it stays in first and revs at about 25 to 30mph until you let off the gas just right then will finally up shift to 2nd then will go through 3rd and 4th ok
It also sometimes clunks when put into reverse and you feel a bit of chugging backing up. Once on the freeway at 60mph the van runs fine and has power in passing gear fine as normal. Fluid looks ok but I know it needs a change and filter
Has any one had this problem or have any ideas

Thanks,
Rick

urpartner · March 2008

I hear some Mr. Transmission shops do a great job. A few are not so good. I guess everyone needs to check the Better Business Bureau's web site www.bbb.org to check on the Mr. Transmission shop in your area before doing to the shop. Has anyone had any really bad experiences with any transmission shop. I called my local parts dealer and was given the name of a great guy that had my '96 Eclipse running great in 24 hours.

jburchfield · March 2008

I have had a 2003, and now have a 2005 3.1L Buick Century. Both transmissions, between 70 and 75K, began to slip from a dead start, after being on the highway for an hour or so. After cooling down, and first thing in the morning there was no problem. Both cars had the Transmission fluid changed at 50K. Am I overheating the transmissions by driving at 75mph for 2 to 4 hours at a time? I am putting 30K on per year. 99% of which is highway.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Joe

01s80t6 · March 2008

My 2001 S80 T6 with 75k miles died again today, for the third time and it happened while going low speed, in a

parking lot, when it hit a very small dip in the road (like those drainways they put in the parking lot to help the

parking lot drain when it rains). Thinking back at the other times that it died. It always happened low speed

hitting a small dip in the road, not coasting but slight pressue on the accelerator pedal to get out of the dip.

When it dies, the car starts right up soon after.

This is a serious issue because I almost got rear ended the last time this happened. All the lights come on the

dash and the steering wheel locks up. I can't do anything but quickly press the hazzard and hope no one hits me.

The warranty is with Carmax, it's been there twice. they couldn't duplicate the problem, they sent it to the local

Volvo dealership on the second time around and couldn't duplicate it either.

The other night I did high speed runs on the freeway, stop and go traffic, and I hit several other dips in the road

at 25-30 MPH to try to duplicate it but it doesn't die out.

No DTC codes come up and the car starts right after.

VIN Check shows the ETM was upgraded:

SERVICE CAMP 155 Credited 4/19/06 36004 Software control module
30785453-9 ETM/ECM P UPGRADE 55221 5127 BOZZANI MOTORS

I checked the battery connections in the trunk and all the grounds that I can reach under the hood. They are all

tight. I also checked most of the connectors I could reach. Lot's of the wire loom is brittle and cracked when

squeezed. I saw a thin pair of yellow and black wires bare, no wire loom. I could see it but could not reach or see

where it begins or ends. Its above the transmisison housing. It seems like its coming from a larger pair of wires

underneath the airbox. It's just odd that it's sitting there above the transmission housing. I checked the

underhood fuse box. no blown fuses. I didn't check the trunk or interior fusebox for fuses though.

Just for the heck of it. I looked to see where the fuel filter was. It's underneath the right side rocker panel. I

don't think it's ever been changed. The quick connect has some play so I slid both connecting ends toward the

filter. Should I change the fuel filter, It's cheap DIY fix and if it doesnt solve it, one less maintanence thing

out of the way.

What are the usual suspsects? Agian this is a serious safety issue and it happens intermittently and neither

Carmax nor Volvo can duplicate it.

Thanks

maxx512 · March 2008

1988 Lincoln Towncar, AO transmission. On a recent trip after about 200 hiway miles the car decides not to shift into drive. Shifts perfect in other gears, meaning right into reverse and shifts 1 to 2 just fine! No slip at all. Fluid color is fine color, no burnt smell at all. Anybody have any ideas as to what to look at? Would a fluid and filter change help? It just happened suddenly while riding, never slipped or problem before now! Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks much.

dadshop · April 2008

Hi Peggy, don't know if you got this taken car of, but. Your trany is probably a 4T40E, the speed sensor is on the driver's side of vehicle where the CV axle enters, on top of aluminum housing. Need to jack up car to get under. A 10m bolt holds it in. Clean area and disconect the 2 wire harness and bolt remove and install new sensor. If a shop is to do work it should only be approxamatly only a charge for 1 hr. Hopes this helps.

mcozza · April 2008

Have 2006 Explorer XLT. V8.six speed trans. (model 6R60)
Same as with 1000's of other people my trans slips from 1st. to 2nd. and from 2nd.
to 1st. when comming to a stop light or leaveing one. also is monsterous in heavy
stop and go traffic on the highway. feels like getting rear ended.
Have had it in to a couple dealers and they reprogram the TCM. and or tell me that they cant find any problem ( I probably wouldent find one either if the shops
computer and a spin around the block told me there wasent one) with all the reprograming and as many times that I had it in, someone would think that there sure must be somthing wrong somewhere. CSR.at Ford Corporate is a joke,
after there done with there polite smoke screen spech, they tell me that if they cant duplicate the trouble in the shop they wont fix it . Even if the tech feels the slip
on a road test if he cant duplicate it in the shop they wont fix it.
that part had me cracking up most of the morning. (sounded so dumb assed)
Thay even tell the service department at the dealer's hands off these trans.
would you know as to how to fix this trans. and can it be fixed.
real tired of Ford,s B.S.on this matter. never expected this from Ford
never had trouble with my other explorers .
any help would be greatly appreciate any help on this .
Thank You.
Mike.
from Chicago IL.

dadshop · April 2008

Hey Joe, to start when a trany is cooled down the fluid is heavier than when hot, it thin's, so inpart that's why it take's off in the morning. In 1st, the input & third clutch packs are applied along with the forward band & D-2 band. Also the input sprag and 1-2 rollor sprag & third sprag are holding. So it's possible that the input/third sprag is not holding. But, more than likley the input clutch piston is worn a very common problem and the inner seal on the input drum which houses these parts I'm talking about is either torn or because of ware in this area, when hot allows fluid bypass from behind the piston allowing a no start situation. The trany will need to pulled and replace the parts at this time might as well do a complete overhaul. Driving ar 75 for 2/4 hrs isn't really the problem. A trany normally run around 200 degree's any way. Hope this helps.

dadshop · April 2008

Hey Max, In hte AOD transmision the intermidiat and forward clutches are applied and the intermideate one-way clutch is holding then the direct clutch pack applies to produce third & the int.clutch pack stay's applied & the forward clutch pack releases and the O/D band is applied along with the direct clutch pack still applied producing O/D. There has been problems with the converter damper hub/weld breaking loose in converter. At this hub it is splined for the direct shaft which then splines directly into the direct drum, in which case the failure of 3rd & 4th. The trany will need to be removed and have the converter damper hub checked if so replace converter, only problem of trying to check direct clutch pack is it sits completly at the rear of the transmission. So it would be wise to have the shop air check the passage to direct clutch pack to see if it applies OK. They will need to remove the valve body for this check. Hope this helps.

dadshop · April 2008

Hey Rick, first, has any one worked on motor in the area of the fuel linkage or the detent cable? It's possible the detent (kickdown) cable is out of adjustment or the van needs a tune-up. Next might check for intermediate band adjusment, vacum modulator for leaking (if leaking might not see any fluid it will be going through the vacum line and burning through motor) or bad vacum from motor to modulator, check vacum. Next your clunk posibilities; high engine idle, warn u-joints - ware in differentail, rear band needing adjusment, the overdrive sprag worn, high/rev or coast clutch packs have to much clearance. Hope this helps.

appleseed4 · April 2008

Hi there my jimmy is having some problems and i was hoping i could fix it myself,
I was having troubles initially getting my key out of the ignition, i found by moving my gear shift i could get it to come out. Then the problem got a little worse and now i am having problems starting it, i have to sometimes put it in neutral which actually appears to be reverse on my shifter. Im not sure what to do but i dont think its actually the transmission, probably the linkage?

Noobie here any tips would be appreciated. Thanks

fordfan_17 · April 2008

many common ignition problems occur from heavy key sets in todays cars, they tend to wear down the ignition cylinder and create problems. it sounds like you may have some worn shifter linkage maybe some bushings in the column worn out creating slop which will make it hard for the column to line up correctly for key removal...hope this helps

burdawg · April 2008

I would think a worn bushing in the linkage or something of that nature.

captshiner · April 2008

I recently went to have my oil changed and a Trans Flush done on my 97 Buick Riviera (250,000mi.) The oil change went routinely but when they tried to flush the Trans they said that the hose was turning with the bolt when they tried to take it out. I told they guys not to worry about it because they couldn't warranty the work so my question is this, how can i free up that bolt and get it to spin freely?

fordfan_17 · April 2008

well with such a high mileage trans should be a 4t65e transmission i would not recommend "power flushing" the transmission as that process could cause a failure with the high mileage on the unit.if you want to service the transmission drop the pan and change the filter too. flushing the transmission does not always include filter change

fordfan_17 · April 2008

it appears you have a 41TE transaxle commonly called a A604 this unit has a high failure rate of the input and output speed sensors and the pigtails that plug into them .they are accessable from the top of the car and can be changed with a 1' socket deepwell but before you do that straight away have ur transmission control module scanned you should find a small blue 6 or 8 pin plug under your drivers side of the dash it is only for the transmission control module and will require an above average scanner to access ie: snap on or mac mentor. get the codes from the tcm before you replace anything since you are desrcibing failsafe mode on your transmission.

wtd44 · April 2008

Just reminding everyone that sometimes we find stuff in places we wouldn't think had them. I have looked around some at the typical automotive parts and supply places, looking for Chrysler +4 transmission fluid. Not needing it soon, I passed up the chances to buy at $5.00 per quart, thinking I'd find some brand somewhere at a little better price. I was buying Motorcraft oil filters today at Walmart, and thought I'd waste a little time on the longshot of looking for +4 in whatever brand. I found the "real thing" with the Chrysler brand name, and a bit of a discount as well. I could have gotten the house brand version for under $4.00, but took the Chrysler brand just to be sure... and what a surprise! :shades:

dadshop · April 2008

I agree with fordfan 17 that power flushing not a good idea. 250,000 miles that's alot, and there would be a very high failure rate. Yes, drop pan and change filter also, but failure can still be present, because there is natural clutch wear with friction and steel clutches on high milage vehicles. This wear produces a sludge buildup, this buildup addhears around the lip seals on the pistons and actually helps seal the lip seals. One thing to know is that transmission fluid is very very high in detergent, and a simple oil filter change can flush the sludge residue away and cause the seals to not have as good as seal as needed and can cause failure. I have seen this happen sometimes in two weeks to two months, and this failure is ends up in an overhaul. I have done this for a few customers; on the oil filter change with thier approval, take and reuse the original fluid by staining it through a paint strainer filter making sure there are no contaminants. This way were avoiding the detergant factor, postponing rebuild. This allows customer to start setting money aside for the transmission rebuild, that way the bill can be paid with a little more ease. Hope this sheds alittle more light.

wtd44 · April 2008

I truly appreciate your realistic approach with practicality the leading factor!

robert103 · April 2008

My first Honda was a 1976 Civic...stick shift..no problem. I've had Hondas ever since...all Accords. My 1989 Honda SEI had 307,000 miles on it ..not a peep out of the auto trannie. I turned it in for a 2001 EX with 43,300 miles on it. I knew when I purchased it that the 2001 model had worst than average trannie problems. My problem is similar to some noted in this forum. In the morning the trannie shifting is very rough but after it warms iup shifts very smoothly. The car was well taken care of based on CARFAX report. I'm thinking having the trannie oil changed to see if that will have a positive effect. As it is now, I go through the shifts before I leave the driveway. This seems to moderate the abruptness of the shifting until the trannie warms up. Comment # 57 states that his 200 Trannie warranty has been increased to 100K miles. Would this apply to my 2001 even though I purchased it used? I would appreciate comments on the foregoing.

Transmission Traumas?

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