Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Car Fax tells you nothing about how a car was maintained. It only tracks registration changes etc and it may or may not show an accident history.
Change the fluid!
Just sell it and buy something different with a stick.
And, I wouldn't buy another Vigor even if you could find one. They were decent cars but they were very strange and vERY difficult to work on them. The technicians hated them for that reason.
Did you buy an extended warranty when you bought the car?
If not, you are facing a repair bill that is probably close to the value of the car. A tough place to be.
I've bought a '99 Grand Marquis with 65,000 from my father-in-law a few months ago. He didn't recall any problems with it, but at 83 he probably just didn't notice what was going on. The trans is slipping when going into overdrive under light acceleration. It doesn't slip every time, but it does happen several times per day. When it happens the slip will last maybe 1/2 second, just long enough that you can feel the car slow-down a bit and you can hear the engine rpm increase.
The local Mercury dealer describes the problem as "overdrive bans slipping". They can repair it for ~$2,000, but they recommend a Ford rebuilt trans for ~$2400.
At this point all I've done is had a fluid flush.
With your experience I'm hoping you guys can answer a few questions. First, what can I do to maximize the remaining life of the trans?
For example, I'm assuming it would help to turn-off over-drive. Is this correct? Assuming it is, is this a big help, since the problem is with the overdrive bans slipping?
Also, we have some long (1 minute) red lights around here. Would it help to shift into neutral at these, or whenever the car isn't moving for more than 20 - 30 seconds? Or does every shift just put more wear and tear on the bands?
Basically, is there anything I should do, or anything I should not do?
Second, any opinion on how much life is left in the trans? From these symptoms does it sound like this is in the early stages of failure or close to a complete failure? Any opinion if the problem is isolated to the overdrive bans, or are other bands likely to start having problems.
Thanks, I really do appreciate your help.
Ron
I have an 07' sierra, 5.3 auto 4wd. I added a tranny cooler that has the low pressure drop feature (oil must be warm enough to go thru cooler). Anyway after adding the cooler I did need to add some fluid but am not sure if I'm reading the level correctly. It says to read warm , idling in park. When it is cold the fluid is well beyond the hot range and when it is warm and idling in park the fluid is barely above the low/cold mark. Prior to adding the cooler the cold level was near the cold mark and when hot in the hot range. Does adding the cooler change this reading in anyway and should I just be concerned with the level when hot? thanks
Also the supercharger can go bad and I believe the front bearing area can be replaced separately if that is the noise maker. The oil in the superchargers should be replaced regularly to get long life out of them. Or you can just replace it at 100K miles or so when it goes bad.
Guessing at what a sound that is a rattle without hearing it ourselves is difficult!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I've never heard of such a worthless warranty if you are correct.
For 7000.00 I'm afraid that exceeds the value of the car.
Tough break!
I am new to this forum and I can really use any thoughts or suggestions. I own a 1997 Saab 900SE turbo..automatic. The car needed an engine replacement a couple of years ago. I had this done at the dealer. They replaced the engine and the turbo with a used one. It was never done correctly and I have not driven the car much since then at all. I also replaced the transmission rang switch.
Now, when you put the car in drive, it takes several seconds to engage into drive and even though it will go, It sounds and feels like it is all bound up..like the brakes are being applied when they are not. I also just learned that the shifter is slipped and nothing runs in its proper gear alignment on the shifter. The check engine light and the check gearbox light have been on but no actual codes are stored I am told that it needs an alternator so that the low voltage code can be cleared in order to see if there are other codes related to the transmission. I have put too much money into the car already and if I have to replace the transmission, I do not want to replace the alternator just to find that out. I am also told that if there are no codes, they will need to drop the transmission for an inspection that may or may not tell them anything and ultimately, if all else has been eliminated, I may still be looking to replace the transmission.
Given my list of symptoms of what the transmission is doing, does it sound like it could be the range switch again? Or if the gear linkage has slipped, would this cause any of this? Any thoughts? Could it even be the turbo? Does it sound like a definite internal transmission problem? The fluid is up there and all appears good with that.
Thank you so much, I just need any information that can help me make determination on what to do. Thanks again
Personally, with the current problems and it has never run right....I'd be looking to unload it before I have to sink any more money into it. The SAAB is an expensive car to maintain.
Thanks for responding to my post...the car has under 90K and it is a 900se convertible...interior and exterior in excellent shape. The replaced engine only has 22K original (from a 2001 car) It has all the extras and all works great. My problems started when the dealer replaced the engine...this led to another $4000 worth of additional repairs/replacements of heater core and on and on. This was in addition to the other $ 4,400 for the engine and $2000 for the range switch and other repairs. I drove the car less than 3000 total since I bought it. Now, I have all of these issues. I just want to sell the car and recoup something. I paid over $7000 for the car a couple of years ago..it was well under book value then.
I know that there is no way to make this situation good, but in trying to determine what I should do next, do you have any thoughts on the symptoms I described? Also, I am in Massachusetts. Thanks very much again
I'd just punch out if I were you, have a few drinks, eat your losses and stay away from Saabs for the rest of your life.
Good luck, sorry this turned out so badly for you.
PS: If this solution is too hard for you, you could spend a few hundred dollars and get a really good diagnosis from a qualified transmission shop. It seems painfully obvious that whoever has been working on the car in the past needs as much help as you do right now.
Thanks for the suggestion... I do not drink but this maybe a good time to start.
Do you think that it could be the range or as it is otherwise called, safety /neutral transmission switch? Would it cause these symptoms?
To answer a couple of your questions: I know that the linkage cable has slipped and needs to be adjusted so that the gears line up again on the shifter, but I compensate for the slippage and still have it in drive when I try to run it. The codes are indicating "low Voltage" and that is why they are telling me that I need to replace the alternator first and clear that code and then they can see what other codes come up..the check engine and gearbox lights are on though.
I just do not know who or what to believe anymore. I think what I might do is go ahead and tow it to the first shop I indicated above and have them see if there is a way to test out the transmission switch and see if it is faulty and go from there. My fear is that they will replace this ($600) and it may not be it and if it does not clear the issue, I maybe stuck still replacing the transmission.
I kept it alive and running as long as I could, and finally one day I called up the SAAB dealership, asked them if they wanted to buy it for parts, and they sent a tow truck to haul it back. I would have given it away if I had to. I swore I would NEVER own another SAAB, and haven't.
I'd be figuring out the minimum I had to do to unload it. Life's too short to have to worry about vehicles that are un-reliable.
"limp mode" sounds like a good guess, but why can't they read the codes instead of guessing?
Does ANYONE know what they are doing here, is the question of the day!