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I am being told now that since the engine replacement was only 2000 miles ago, that it is possible that they did not line up the transmission correctly when they replaced the engine. Can that happen? Is there a torque alignment for the transmission when the engine is replaced?
1. Lift the clutch pedal to its upward most position to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Push the quadrant forward, unhook the cable from the quadrant and allow to slowly swing rearward.
2. Open the hood. Remove the screw retaining cable assembly insulator to the dash panel.
3. Pull the cable through the dash panel and into the engine compartment. Remove cable bracket screw from fender apron.
4. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
5. On 5.OL engines, remove the dust cover from the bell housing.
6. Remove the clip retainer retaining cable assembly to the bell housing.
7. On 5.OL engines, slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly through the hole in the clutch release lever and remove the cable.
8. On 2.3L OHC engines, remove hairpin clip, clevis pin and clevis from end of cable.
Installation
CAUTION: The clutch pedal must be lifted to disengage the adjusting mechanism during cable installation. Failure to do so will result in damage to the self-adjuster mechanism.
CAUTION: Under no circumstances should a prying instrument such as a screwdriver or a pry bar be used to install the cable into the quadrant.
1. Insert the cable through the hole in the bell housing and through the hole in the clutch release lever. On 5.OL engines, slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly into cable ball pocket on clutch release lever. On 2.3L OHC engines, place cable ball into clevis. Install clevis and clevis pin onto clutch release lever and into clevis pin.
2. Install the clip retainer retaining the cable assembly to the bell housing.
3. Install the dust shield on the bell housing (5.OL).
4. Push the cable assembly into the engine compartment and lower the vehicle. Install cable bracket screw in fender apron.
5. Push the cable assembly into the hole in the dash panel and secure the insulator with a screw.
6. Install the cable assembly by lifting the clutch pedal to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Then pushing the quadrant forward, hook the end of the cable over the rear of the quadrant.
7. Depress clutch pedal several times to adjust cable.
I hope that's not your problem as that part lists for $629.
Since you have to open it all up to get to the throw out bearing, you might as well replace the clutch plate (and even consider the pressure plate). If you don't, and then down the road in a year and 15K miles your clutch plate then needs replaced....now you have a whole big labor charge again to tear it apart.
Personally, If I have to open it up ..... I'll replace it all, and then won't have to go into the clutch/transmission again.
If you are in doubt, have a professional give the parts a really close eyeball. And if you do replace it, use quality parts.
So just guessing from this distance, if you have water dripping out of the cooler lines at the transmission, (and presuming this is an automatic trans), then there must be an internal leak in your radiator between the two tanks.
Is it possible to get a picture and post it to your carspace account and link it here or post to photobucket and link here?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
thanks dave
First off.... the horn doesnt work, it's not the fuse....
Anyone know what it might be???
And for my main question.... about 2 days ago.... everytime I would switch gears from park to reverse or to drive ...It would make a clunking noise and then it would jerk. Also when I stop at a stop sign or press the gas to go it makes the clunking noise. Well, Come to find out, there was barely any transmission fluid. We had to put two quarts just to fill it back up....
Do you think that the transmission is done for...
The clunking noises does mean it's the transmission right?
And what it the estimated price of a new Transmission?
I heard it was like 2,000 dollars, that seems a bit much, does that seem right?
Please help me out, maybe give me some advice. I'm only 18. And don't know much about cars....
- a fuse, which supplies power to the circuit
- the horn switch on the steering wheel, which turns on a relay
- a horn relay, which is turned on by the horn switch, and has heavier electrical contact points which allow larger current flow to the horns
- the horn(s) themselves.
WIth a voltmeter, you need to follow the circuit, and figure out where the failure is occurring. For instance, if you take the wire connector off of the horn, and measure the voltaget there, and you get 13 volts when the switch is depressed.....then the horns are suspect because the voltage is getting to the horns. If you don't have 13 volts, then the problem is somewhere 'upstream' that is not getting the voltage down to the horns. You can also supply the voltage directly to the horns, to verify that they blare. Most states do a state inspection, and the horn has to work. The horn is the least of your problems if your transmission is a problem....but if you bought from a dealership or used car lot I'd take it back. If you bought private party, you may be out of luck and have to fix yourself.
I'll let someone else help with the transmission question.
Thanks
Ironhead83
Thanks
I have been hard at work finding a good used car w/ low miles for around $6-8K.Today, I came across a 2000 new beetle with 65,000 miles, clean, clean inside & out, fully loaded. However, I went over to a local mechanic to see about making an inspection on it and he told me that theTransmissions have caused major problems consistently. Is this true? I can't afford the car being in the shop. Thanks for your help.
Madison
My 2001 Lexus RX300's transmission just failed and I'm looking for a new AWD crossover-type vehicle, preferably in the same luxury class. I've seen lots of posts here and elsewhere that transmission problems are the norm for this model, though I got a lot more mileage out of mine (140k) than most seem to. I'd love a new RX but not if I'm setting myself up for another transmission failure. So, in looking at some competitors, I'm also seeing lots of posts about transmission problems around 80-100k for many models of AWD crossovers.
My question for any mechanics and/or serial luxury crossover buyers is, are there any vehicles in this category that seem to have fewer transmission problems (and fewer overall reliability problems)? Some I'm considering are the Infiniti EX, BMW X3, Volvo XC60 and Mercedes GLK 350 (all AWD).
Thanks!
Any car can go through a transmission at 100,000 miles especi9ally SUVS that tend to have a hard life.
I got it home replaced the fluid, filter, and substituted a quart for some lucas Transmission fix thinking that something might be sticking. I still have no reverse unless you REALLY force it, now the van will drive in neutral, but slip. I still get normal shift and can run highway speeds in drive and while doing this I tried to engage/disengage the overdrive/tow button on the shifter, but got no noticeable change in RPM.
Thanks to all for you time to read and relpy!
It's possible some valve is sticking but more likely forward clutch is not releasing or the sun shell is damaged.
By all means have the trouble codes read to see if there is a code present, but right offhand I'm not aware that this could be caused by electronics---but I don't know for sure.
We had gone to Scranton over the weekend, and noticed a smoke coming into the vehicle, we pulled over and checked under the vehicle, we didn't see anything. It was a light smoke, and we assumed it was the exhaust leak and cover the hole it was coming in. Now, I'm not so sure.
There is plenty of fluid in the truck, the oil was changed 2 days before the incident. We also noticed a slight grinding noise in the front drivers side, (we had the front end rebuilt last Nov). We have put som much money in the truck we are broke
Thanks
When I engage the 4-high (button on dash), the 4 -high light just flashes. I here the transfer case solenoid engaging. The 4 wheel drive never fully engages (whether I'm stopped or slowly rolling). I'm not sure how to trouble shoot this issue any further, and the Hanes manual gives zero details on this aspect of the truck.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Nick
I see you say there is "Plenty of fluid in the truck." Is that because you checked after the "incident," or because the oil was changed 2 days prior?
If you haven't already, I would pull the transmission dipstick and literally "Smell" the oil. Does it have a burnt smell to it? Then, engage the emergency brake, run the vehicle until it is warm, put the vehicle in Neutral, and check the transmission fluid level on the dipstick several times to make sure the fluid level is at its proper level.
At that age and mileage, it's probably not worth the cost of a rebuild but you might be able to fiind a good used one. If the rest of the truck is in decent shape, it might be worth doing this.
thanks,