You seem very knowledgable about transmissions. Do you have any comments or suggestions or even maybe an answer to my problem? post #888. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Anybody is welcome to help, thanks.
Anybody knows what can cause the following problem: after the new (52kmiles old) transmission unit has been installed on my 1993 Mazda 929 the overdrive mode does not want to work.
The following is observed:
1. I can not fix the “HOLD” button on the AT shifter in neither ON or OFF position
2. The “HOLD” sign on the indicator blinks.
3. When I drive the car, the engine does not shift to the 4-th (overdrive) gear.
4. After resetting computer the symptoms 1 and 2 disappear, but only temporarily -- until the car moves a few meters. Then it all (symptoms 1, 2 and 3 combined) starts over again.
Probably, the problem is not a mechanical in origin but rather a failure of some electrical circuits. Mechanic who replaced the tranny has already inspected visually all the electrical connections of the transmission unit but did not find anything wrong.
Thanks lbthedawg for the reply. Here is how things turned out: On the way to the shop (someone who I trust, I know what you mean by the rip-off syndrome) the tranny started shifting OK. I figured that I'd have it checked out anyway, since I had it scheduled. The diagnosis revealed an intermittent brake pedal switch problem,(there are two switches) that was not letting the tcc lock up. Had the tranny flushed and also replaced the tcc solonoid. Seems to be working OK now. I guess I just got lucky this time. I was told that if I ever did need major work on that tranny, dont bother, but put in the mid 1987 and up unit. much better unit, smoother shifting and more reliable.
Just had our Sienna into the Toyota dealer for 60,000 mile check this past Monday (note: actual mileage 60,400). This Wednesday (2 days later) my wife is on the interstate in the passing lane, going to pick up our girls from school, and the transmission fails - totally - she was lucky to make it off of the highway. Service manager informs me today that Toyota will cover the cost of a new transmission $2300 (its remanufactured) but I am on the hook for the labor - about $500. When I protest - I feel this should all be covered under warranty - he says that Toyota is making a 'concession' by covering this because I am out of warranty, yeah by only 400 miles. What leverage do I have? I can make a statement that I will not buy another Toyota - do they care?? Obviously these transmissions have had a problem - my 'google' search proved that. From the research I did on the net last night I see people being asked to pay much more than this - anyone with opinions or suggestions? Thanks in advance
I just brought a 90 Plymouth Acclaim with a re-built transmission. The transmission hesitates before it will engage into drive and/or reverse and it will not change into the higher gears while driving. What is my problem and what do I need to do to fix it???? Thank You in advance!!
I have a 2000 Taurus (31k) and a 93 MR2 (101k). Both are due for trans fluid change. I am looking for some advice on switching to synthetic and doing it myself. I have Mobil-1 in both crankcases, so it would be my first choice, but I read about B&M performance synthetic and wondered if it makes any difference. The Taurus is naturally soft on shifts and the Toyota is a little soft and I'd like a little crisper shift. Any success on flushing at home?
Just had the car in for 60,000 K service, (assume this includes changing the tranny fluid) and it fails very soon after. Did they in fact replacve the fluid properly? I would push for some negligence on thier part. Crap happens but really a coincidence here. Trannies rarely fail totally
Hello, I have a '98 Suzuki Sidekick Sport with the 1.8 liter 4 cylinder and 5 speed transmission, and it currently has 44,450 miles on it. Last summer, about a month later than this, the rear end went out at 34,400 miles, and now that its 10,000 miles later, I think the tranny is ready to go, or else the something is up with the clutch. I'm personally leaning towards the clutch. What happens is, its extremely difficult to go into first gear, and most times impossible unless I shut off the engine, and reverse is the same way, except it grinds, where as first gear doesn't. When sitting still with the parking brake off, I can feel the car move forward just a bit when I try putting it in first gear with the engine running. When I shut off the engine, it goes into all gears like it always has, very easily. As I drove to work this morning, I noticed that its getting harder and harder to go into the rest of the gears as well when I accelerate. Do I need to stop driving the car and get it to a mechanic, or am I good for a week? What could be the problem? If its the transmission, I'm selling the car. I figure if the rear end and the transmission go this early the engine will probably be next. Does anyone know if Suzuki has ever had these kind of problems? I'm about certain that I have the lemon of the bunch. Please let me know something ASAP. Thank you very much.
Sounds like the clutch is not fully releasing. If I remember correctly, the Sidekick has a hydraulic clutch release mechanism. Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder on the firewall. If ok, have someone depress the clutch pedal while you check for movement at the slave cylinder push rod at the clutch housing. If the release mechanism's ok, the next step would be to remove the trans and inspect the clutch. While it's out, check the pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft and the machined surface on the nose of the trans input shaft.
Same thing happened to me-took my car to a Goodyear and had them replace the transmission fluid.Car had about 59,000 miles on it.Apprx 2-3 weeks later the transmission went.Fortunately for me I had a warranty to cover.However I am convinced that the Goodyear place must have goofed somehow when they replaced the fluid.From that day on,car only goes to the dealer for transmission work
Alcan is right. This is definitely a problem with the hydraulic clutch mechanism. It is very possible you have a leaking master or slave cylinder, and I'll bet your fluid reservoir is empty. As alcan said add fluid and check the mechanism. You will also have to bleed the air out of the line. This is and easy task. Find the bleeder nut on the slave cylinder. Put a cup or some other collection chamber under the nut, have someone push the cluthc in and hold it to the floor, open the bleeder nut, allow fluid out and then close, then have person release clutch and press again to the floor. Repeat this process until you are sure you have purged all air from the line, ( it will take at least 10 repetitions), and make sure you keep filling the fluid reservoir. After you are done you will have a working clutch. Then you need to keep an eye on the fluid reservoir. If the level gradually drops you have a leak in the system. The slave cylinder is the most common culprit, and is is usually the easiest and cheapest to change. Good luck. And don't let anyone try to sell you a new clutch you don't need it.
I have found out what the problem is. I checked everything over myself before taking it to a garage. I know all about normal maintenance of a car. The reservoir was full, and everything appeared to be normal, except for the thing not going into gear and then as the day went on, it wouldn't go out of gear either, and even with the clutch on the floor, it would still be going forward. I took it to the garage right after work, and he told me what was up. Suzuki has came out with an update for the clutch. The entire mechanics of the clutch behind the dash has to be replaced, as the clutch on the car was made without an adjustment. What I wanna know is, if there was a part update, why didn't I get a service bulletin or a recall on it? Its gonna run me about $200 to fix. Does anyone think something fishy is going on?
and another thing, the mechanic said something about an arm in there that was the culprit, because it wasn't long enough or something like that. Thanks again for your responses.
Said it many times here but use the ATF recommended by your owners manual. DC, Honda and the other car manufacturer's do not manufactuer ATF but their trannies are designed for specific ATF's. Had a friend whose DC mini van tranny died a few weeks after going to one of those quick change places for an ATF change. I also bet more than a few people who replaced their ATF with one of the synthetic ATF's paid dearly for their efforts. USE THE RECOMMENDED ATF. Just cause it is synthetic does not mean it will not kill your tranny.
I change my ATF every 30K despite Honda's suggested change interval of 90K-got a tranny code at 70K and ATF was dark and smelled burnt and I drive only highway miles so go figure. Also I have my doubts about those machines that are used to completely change the ATF. Do they get all of the "solvent" out of your tranny or does some remain in and cause problems. Maybe the way to get all the old fluid out is to disconnect the supply side of the cooler, connect it to a clear jug, get a helper and add at the same rate as it flows out of the tranny.
The 5 speed transmission on my car is giving me a major headache. When the weather is very cold, and I shift into second, the gear makes a "crunching" sound and sometimes will grind and not let me into the gear at all. Same with downshifting into that gear. The problem gets better when the car warms up. What is really strange is that in warm weather, this problems disappears and there is no crunching at all. The other thing is that occassionally, when I try to shift into 3rd, it gets stuck half way, and I have to go to neutral and then into 3rd again. I am told the clutch is not the problem. Do I have the wrong fluid in the tranny that may cause crunching in the winter, but not in the summer? Help!!!
The mechanic mis-diagnosed the problem, it was only the clutch adjustment. The problem is fixed and free of charge. Yippee! Maybe it isn't a worthless piece of junk like I expected. Also, my dad just purchased a '98 Pontiac Grand Prix GT, and he was told by a dealer that they have had some tranny probs. We looked for symptoms, none so far, the car has 57k on it. Any suggestions?
Quite frankly, most of the newer transmission fluids are at least semi-synthetic anyway. I've moved 2 older cars from conventional to synthetic without any problem. This was true even though it was not a recommended fluid. They both were smoother and quieter.
I do believe with your Honda and Chryslers that it is good advice since they use a special highly friction modified fluid.
If your transmission fluid was dark and smelled burnt then I would recommend a drain and refill every 15K. I would also consider Lubegard which can be purchased at NAPA. It lowers transmission operating temperatures.
You might want to consider a transmission cooler if it was dark in only 10,000 miles.
I have a similar problem with my 2001 Nissan Sentra 5 speed except it happens in 4th gear. During cold weather (winter months) the car clunks and crunches when shifting into 4th. It does not happen during the summer months or when the transmission is warm. Being a new car I thought that the tolerances were just tight, but if it occurs in a 1993 Altima, maybe there really is a problem. I believe the problem is directly related to tranny temperature because it doesn't happen the tranny has warmed up. Anyone else have any thoughts on this?
You wrote: It does not happen during the summer months or when the transmission is warm
It is possible that it have problems even when warm, but does not manifest them so clear.
I had a bad transmission replaced this winter. 98 Malibu. I reported my experience on this board, you can find it above.
I also saw problems with the transmission only when it was cold. The Firestone mechanic told me the same: when warm, it is OK. However, when I brought the car to Chevrolet dealership, they took a test drive and said that the transmission is bad even when warm.
The dealer mecahics decided that it is easier, more reliable, and probably even less expensive to replace by remanufactured, than trying to fix at shop. Fortunately, I have an extended warranty for this car.
After I got the car back, I see that yes, it behaves much better both when cold and when warm. Accelerates much faster. Like when the car was new.
With the new transmission I can turn left safely into less big gaps in incoming traffic. Or change lane and pass the stick traffic in city.
I seldom drive distance in this car, but have impression that fuel consumption did not improve noticeable on highway after the repair. However, it consumes almost twice less gas in my daily commute through suburb and city. I used to fill up every week, i.e. every 75-80 miles of commute, at most 100 miles including errands. 8 to 10 gallons every fill-up.After the repair, I am filling up every two weeks.
The lubricant needs to be changed to a lower viscosity. Synchronizer rings don't like to work in thick, viscous fluid. Makes it difficult for them to cut through the film of fluid on the gear cones and bring them to a stop during a shift. This is assuming there are no issues with the clutch release mechanism when cold.
Unlike any other ones I tested in dealers' lots, my brand new 2002 Sienna LE tranny shifts very harsh. You can feel the van jerked when it shifts. Fluid level and color are OK. Took to two different local dealers, and both are saying as long as the tranny upshifts and downshifts, there is NO problem. Well, dealers always say that, especially for non-destructive issues!!!
I am wondering about any possibilities to make it shift smoother. How about adjusting throttle cable, changing fluid with synthetic ATF, adding additives, etc.? OR, should I simply hassle dealers more often?
A new 2002 Mercury Mountaineer with AWD. Has these problems since new and now about 6000 miles When accelerating and speed is just about right to shift into second gear, if you ease off the accelerator, transmission which was expecting an upshift, shifts back to low with a severe clunk -- indicating to me excessive play. Also if running in 2 gear at about 30 to 35 mph and suddenly release the accelerator, you get an indication of this noise -- almost reminds you of a bad universal. Ford engineer checked it out and says play is not out of the ordinary range. Drove a 2002 Mountaineer without AWD and could not duplicate these problems.
Anyone experiencing similar problems with the new Mountaineer?
My manual tranny began began grinding/rattling at around 2000km (brand new!) and the clutch pedal occasionally vibrates. Especially noticeable during heavy acceleration from low speed in 2nd gear, or in any gear when the engine is fully warmed up.
GM's remedy was to replace the transmission fluid with a thicker variety (essentially muffling the sounds, I suspect) - that had some effect, but recently (17000km) it's become as bad as ever. Has anybody heard of this problem, and do you have any idea what is ACTUALLY happening in this thing? GM has certainly heard of the problem before and I have 2 friends with the identical problem on their '01 Cavaliers. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
My point being that Ford transmissions were often designed to feel the shift between gears. Toyotas have never followed that philosophy. They shift quietly.
Syn ATF is definitely smoother than conventional, but if Toyota follows most manufacturers trends, they are already using at least a semi-synthetic.
I would recommend going to Napa and purchasing Lubegard. Remove the necessary amount of fluid in the transmission and Lubegard see what happens in the next few weeks. Shouldn't cost too much, and a transmission specialist may also have it. Check out www.lubegard.com. They send me a number of endorsements from manufacturers when I asked about them. Three checked out on alldata.com, so I quit checking on the rest.
Hi again, I'm back. The clutch went completely out of my Sidekick. I found, myself, not the garage, what caused it. There was a little metal piece attached to the arm that goes to the clutch pedal assembly, and to the cylinder through the firewall, that was slowly tearing in half, until it completely broke. So, its back in the garage again. Has anyone else heard of Suzuki's having this sort of problem?
I've got a '99 Regal GS that I've been real happy with till this morning. Took a short trip with the kids and when I pulled into the driveway I smelled burning oil. Popped the hood and saw all my tranny fluid gushing out the breather valve on top the transmission. I looked down my driveway and into the street and there was a fluid trail as far as I could see. Must have been draining while I was driving and now it was gushing out with the car running but in PARK. Within the time it took me to find the problem my tranny was emptied of all fluid. I have no idea why this happened. I called Aamco and the mechanics had never heard of fluid draining from the breather valve before. The car ran fine with no shifting problems. Once in a great while I had a hard garage shift but nothing that made me think there was a problem. Anybody got any ideas what's going on? By the way, this tranny has only 30,000 miles on it(car has 70,000). The old one was replaced just before I bought the car. I replaced the tranny fluid about 10,000 miles ago. Thanks for your help.
Thanks for the responses. I'm positive it is the transmission breather valve that is leaking. You look straight down on it from the left side of the engine compartment and I'll be damned if that thing was'nt gushing tranny fluid straight up about an inch or two. Drained the whole transmission of fluid in a matter of minutes. I had it towed to AAMCO and they had to call their national hotline to get all the possibilities of what could cause the problem. The theory is that either an internal seal blew or the torque converter somehow went bad. They take a look at it tomorrow. Either way, I'm probably looking at a $2,000 rebuild.
I am assuming the "breather valve" that you are referring to is the dipstick tube. I'm no expert, but I have never heard of a breather valve. I once had a truck to start spewing fluid out the dipstick tube. It was scarry for a few minutes as I was afraid the tranny fluid might catch on fire as it ran down the exhaust manifold. Well, to make a long story short, it was a plugged vent tube. Dirt daubers had built a nest in the tube. Without a functional vent, the tranny will pressurize as it heats up, eventually forcing fluid out the dipstick tube.
I would look at that before I allow someone, who wants to sell me a $2,000 rebuild, gets their hands on it. Maybe I am to late though.
Mullins87, No it's not the dipstick. You can call it a "vent" though. Sits atop the tranny case and stands about a half inch tall topped by a crimped aluminum sleave that allows fluid to escape when under pressure. Maybe its there to prevent fluid from coming out the dipstick and causing a fire or bad smoke. Don't know, but if I can avoid a $2000 repair I will. I'm not sure how though.
I'm like Joe, I've never seen that happen. If you blew a seal, plugged up the inlet to the torque convertor, I can see how the body of the tranny would become quickly overfilled with fluid. Unless some materials got into the clutch pack and valve body, probably did but you can hope, and really messed things up, I don't see why the tranny would need a rebuild. Flush it and slap on a new convertor.
All auto transmissions are vented,GM on a lot of their tranmissions its just a hole in the top and a plastic tube sticking out.The vent keeps pressure from building up and causing seal leakage.
I own a 1996 Dodge Stratus with the 2.0L 4cyl engine and a 5spd manual transmission. On a trip last week from Vegas to California I encountered a problem which has been occuring ever since. While at freeway speeds (70mph+), the transmission slips out of 5th gear & back into neutral. It only happens in 5th gear, and only while going uphill (I'm guessing more engine pressure on the transmission while the engine works harder?). I must now physically hold the shifter while going uphill the freeway. About a month or two ago I also realized that, at the right rpm, I can upshift to any gear without using the clutch. I must use the clutch to downshift, however. My question is: is this is a major tranny problem, or is there just some adjustments that need to be done? Thanks for any help or suggestions!
I have 67K on my Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L with auto overdrive. This vehicle has never been used to tow and has 95% highway miles on it. I had the transmission serviced at a dodge dealer and in less than 1K miles the transmission self destructed. I had to have it towed to another Dodge dealer who said the torque converter failed and they are rebuilding the transmission. They also say this failure had nothing to do with the service performed by the other dealer. I find this all very odd and very coincidental. Anybody have any thoughts or experiences like this
Turns out I blew an inch wide gap in an internal gasket that rests about an inch away from the breather vent. Fluid leaked through the seal and right out the breather hole. It's costing me $2,033 for a rebuild kit along with a few minor internal componants. No hard parts. They did throw in a free oil change. Although it is a heavy duty transmission supporting a super charged engine, I'm still not sure if I'm getting a good deal or paying through the nose. Either way, tranny problems suck!
new car has 1000 miles. When the car is cold and I start it and shift from park to reverse, there is a loud clank that comes from the front of the car. That's the only time it does it. It doesn't do it with any other gears and after it's been driven and it's warm it doesn't do it. Then after it sets at least 6 hours and gets cold, it will do it again. Sometimes it will skip and not do it but most of the time it will. What could that clank be? It comes from the front, under the hood somewhere but I can't narrow it down. I'm planning on calling the dealership tomorrow to schedual a time to get it looked at but I would like to have some idea before I talk to them. HELP
doesn't tell you how to check the transmission fluid. It tells you how to check other fluid levels....but not transmission. At least I couldn't seem to locate it..
Comments
The following is observed:
1. I can not fix the “HOLD” button on the AT shifter in neither ON or OFF position
2. The “HOLD” sign on the indicator blinks.
3. When I drive the car, the engine does not shift to the 4-th (overdrive) gear.
4. After resetting computer the symptoms 1 and 2 disappear, but only temporarily -- until the car moves a few meters. Then it all (symptoms 1, 2 and 3 combined) starts over again.
Probably, the problem is not a mechanical in origin but rather a failure of some electrical circuits. Mechanic who replaced the tranny has already inspected visually all the electrical connections of the transmission unit but did not find anything wrong.
Anyone can help here?
Thanks a lot!
Service manager informs me today that Toyota will cover the cost of a new transmission $2300 (its remanufactured) but I am on the hook for the labor - about $500. When I protest - I feel this should all be covered under warranty - he says that Toyota is making a 'concession' by covering this because I am out of warranty, yeah by only 400 miles. What leverage do I have? I can make a statement that I will not buy another Toyota - do they care?? Obviously these transmissions have had a problem - my 'google' search proved that. From the research I did on the net last night I see people being asked to pay much more than this - anyone with opinions or suggestions? Thanks in advance
Any success on flushing at home?
If the fluid wasn't changed at the 60K service, then take the deal. Otherwise, push for something better.
TB
This is definitely a problem with the hydraulic clutch mechanism.
It is very possible you have a leaking master or slave cylinder, and I'll bet your fluid reservoir is empty.
As alcan said add fluid and check the mechanism. You will also have to bleed the air out of the line. This is and easy task. Find the bleeder nut on the slave cylinder. Put a cup or some other collection chamber under the nut, have someone push the cluthc in and hold it to the floor, open the bleeder nut, allow fluid out and then close, then have person release clutch and press again to the floor. Repeat this process until you are sure you have purged all air from the line, ( it will take at least 10 repetitions), and make sure you keep filling the fluid reservoir.
After you are done you will have a working clutch. Then you need to keep an eye on the fluid reservoir. If the level gradually drops you have a leak in the system. The slave cylinder is the most common culprit, and is is usually the easiest and cheapest to change.
Good luck. And don't let anyone try to sell you a new clutch you don't need it.
I change my ATF every 30K despite Honda's suggested change interval of 90K-got a tranny code at 70K and ATF was dark and smelled burnt and I drive only highway miles so go figure. Also I have my doubts about those machines that are used to completely change the ATF. Do they get all of the "solvent" out of your tranny or does some remain in and cause problems. Maybe the way to get all the old fluid out is to disconnect the supply side of the cooler, connect it to a clear jug, get a helper and add at the same rate as it flows out of the tranny.
The other thing is that occassionally, when I try to shift into 3rd, it gets stuck half way, and I have to go to neutral and then into 3rd again.
I am told the clutch is not the problem. Do I have the wrong fluid in the tranny that may cause crunching in the winter, but not in the summer? Help!!!
thnx
I do believe with your Honda and Chryslers that it is good advice since they use a special highly friction modified fluid.
If your transmission fluid was dark and smelled burnt then I would recommend a drain and refill every 15K. I would also consider Lubegard which can be purchased at NAPA. It lowers transmission operating temperatures.
You might want to consider a transmission cooler if it was dark in only 10,000 miles.
It is possible that it have problems even when warm, but does not manifest them so clear.
I had a bad transmission replaced this winter. 98 Malibu. I reported my experience on this board, you can find it above.
I also saw problems with the transmission only when it was cold. The Firestone mechanic told me the same: when warm, it is OK. However, when I brought the car to Chevrolet dealership, they took a test drive and said that the transmission is bad even when warm.
The dealer mecahics decided that it is easier, more reliable, and probably even less expensive to replace by remanufactured, than trying to fix at shop. Fortunately, I have an extended warranty for this car.
After I got the car back, I see that yes, it behaves much better both when cold and when warm. Accelerates much faster. Like when the car was new.
With the new transmission I can turn left safely into less big gaps in incoming traffic. Or change lane and pass the stick traffic in city.
I seldom drive distance in this car, but have impression that fuel consumption did not improve noticeable on highway after the repair. However, it consumes almost twice less gas in my daily commute through suburb and city. I used to fill up every week, i.e. every 75-80 miles of commute, at most 100 miles including errands. 8 to 10 gallons every fill-up.After the repair, I am filling up every two weeks.
I am wondering about any possibilities to make it shift smoother. How about adjusting throttle cable, changing fluid with synthetic ATF, adding additives, etc.? OR, should I simply hassle dealers more often?
Joe
Anyone experiencing similar problems with the new Mountaineer?
GM's remedy was to replace the transmission fluid with a thicker variety (essentially muffling the sounds, I suspect) - that had some effect, but recently (17000km) it's become as bad as ever.
Has anybody heard of this problem, and do you have any idea what is ACTUALLY happening in this thing? GM has certainly heard of the problem before and I have 2 friends with the identical problem on their '01 Cavaliers. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Syn ATF is definitely smoother than conventional, but if Toyota follows most manufacturers trends, they are already using at least a semi-synthetic.
I would recommend going to Napa and purchasing Lubegard. Remove the necessary amount of fluid in the transmission and Lubegard see what happens in the next few weeks. Shouldn't cost too much, and a transmission specialist may also have it. Check out www.lubegard.com. They send me a number of endorsements from manufacturers when I asked about them. Three checked out on alldata.com, so I quit checking on the rest.
I would look at that before I allow someone, who wants to sell me a $2,000 rebuild, gets their hands on it. Maybe I am to late though.
Good luck!!!!
While at freeway speeds (70mph+), the transmission slips out of 5th gear & back into neutral. It only happens in 5th gear, and only while going uphill (I'm guessing more engine pressure on the transmission while the engine works harder?). I must now physically hold the shifter while going uphill the freeway.
About a month or two ago I also realized that, at the right rpm, I can upshift to any gear without using the clutch. I must use the clutch to downshift, however.
My question is: is this is a major tranny problem, or is there just some adjustments that need to be done?
Thanks for any help or suggestions!
2. Put gear shift in Neutral?
Which one is right? Thanks for your help.