Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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A local garage guy told me that it probably was the engine cooolant temperature sensor problem and he would replace one for me with $150.
Should I just buy the sensor from Autozone and replace it by myself? It doesn't seem too hard to do it. Really appreciate if someone could give me some suggestion!
Thanks!
Check Engine light comes on. Computer reads misfire in cylinder 3. I have changed the wires and plugs. The computer was reset and again the light comes on in about 150 miles with the same code. The car runs great other than this problem. Could you please give me other things to check.
Thank you.
I bought my camry 97 (~87k miles) used and maintaining it well. The car stopped all of a sudden on a 40mile road and the 'check engine' light started to glow, stearing became hard and had no control on the vehicle. After pulling over and after few minutes the car started back and had control on the stearing and was able to drive but the 'engine check' was still glowing. The mechanic says he has to put it on the ramp and do a full diagnostics to find the problem!.. Any one had this problem before ? Is this is only way to check for possible mechanical faults? Or just a sensor problem? Any suggestions would be welcome....
thanks,
pet.b
thanks for your time,
chuck
Thanks!
Could be:
vacuum leak
EGR leak
excessive fuel pressure
contamination of the 02 sensor from coolant or fuel additives or oil burning engine.
I was just wondering if you got the problem fixed and what it was? My car started doing the same thing today and i'm not sure if it was bad gasoline or what. Thanks for the info.
Todd
My roomate has a 1998 Civic LX. Her check engine light came on a few weeks ago. :mad: I took it to Autozone and had the diagnostic run....the usual front bank O2 sensor. I ordered the part, as well as the special slotted socket for removal/replacement. I was looking around the sensor to make sure I had enough clearance for the tool when I thought I spotted a chip missing near the sensor. I remove the exhaust manifold shield, and discovered that the manifold was cracked right down the center...thus the bad reading...not to mention it explained the massive decrease in fuel efficiency.
I found a used manifold, and did the swap, and the car seems fine now.
So have your folks or you take it back and tell them it's going to stay there until they fix it. If you get it back and it's not right, you go right back and park it in front of their driveway and toss them the keys again.
They are a VW dealer, they are supposed to know how to fix their own cars, and I'm sure Small Claims Court would agree with you.
Or if they can't fix it, have them "unwind the deal" and give your folks their money back.
Give them one more chance or ask for the deal to be unwound.
No, it didn't. It retrieved a code which said there's a problem with the cam sensor CIRCUIT:
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
The scan tool hasn't been made yet that can determine that a component is defective. Might be a defective sensor, but could just as easily be a wiring harness or connector problem. Which engine does it have?
Since the code indicates symptoms, not necessarily the problem, I'm working on the theory that this is related to the problem I had with the exhaust. For reference, the pipe broke (fully) while I was on a fairly long road trip, and I had to drive almost 200 miles before I was able to get it fixed. What are the likely problems this might have caused which would shut down the VTEC system?
So thanks to all you smart guys for sharing your knowledge, it is much apreciated.
Masx
Also, if you have a stock stereo, there may be some kind of anti-theft mechanism where you have to enter a code. If your radio requires it, you will have to re-enter the code after you plug the battery back up. Otherwise your radio will be non-operational.
Just returned from Auto Zone with two codes.
1. P1601 which I'm told is a manufacturer's (dealer) code and will have to contact them.
2. P0154 which points to a host of possibilities.
According to the Millenia forum, it appears likely to be oxygen or knock sensor as seems to be the case with other owners, do these have to be replaced--as they appear from other posts to be rather pricey! Any chance it is simply the spark plugs that need to be replaced? I suspect they've never been touched by previous owner.
And by the way, anyone know a good Mazda mechanic in the Rochester, NY area?
Appreciate any and all help/suggestions.
I'm afraid of pressing fuel pedal when I did press it at about 30mph, the CEL was on after 1-2 minutes and stays there.
Also, I'm not sure if it is related: every time when I start the car, a circuit sign on dashboard lights up for about 10 seconds then goes off. My battery doesn't hold power as well, it is less than 1.5 years old.
what will you think the problem would be?
Thanks a lot!!!!
Jane
I have a 2001 Accord, it has 49,000 miles on it. I had my 45k mi maintenance done last month. Now my check engine light is on. It came on last month, but went away on its on. I was told it was probably the gas cap not being tightened.
It is back on now, it stayed on for 2 days went off and now has been on for about 3 days. Now the CEL is back on, I went to the AutoZone near my house, and they gave me a code of P1259. The guy looked it up and he mentioned something about the "Kill switch, this happens when you get in an accident, the car is suppose to shutdown." I have not been in an accident and I have gotten the car maintenanced on schedule.
If anyone has an knowledge of the code or of how serious it is I would appreciate it.
I know I am going to have to pay $100 for the dealer just to "diagnoise" it.