I saw a commercial for AAMCO (LA CA area) that said they'd run FREE diagnostics for dashboard lite resolution. You might give them a call & see if they offer it in your area.
On my 98 Plymouth Gr. Voyager (3.3 L with 80K miles), check engine light had come on a couple of times in the past and went away. This time it is not going way and transmission is getting stuck in lower gears, so that to get to 50 mph the engine revs to approx. 4.5 K. It happened one day, after about 5 min, driving normally, I felt a transmission thump while stopped at a red light and transmission stopped going to D3 D4. After the van was parked for 3-4 hours, it started normally and again the same thing happened. The vehicle had started with the check engine light on, on both instances. This thing had happened once over a month ago and it went away on its own and everything was back to normal. Any one has any idea as to what might be going on. Could check engine light on may tell the transmission to stop shifting properly. Any help would be appreciated. I am worried that it may be sign of major and costly repairs. Would the ignition key on-off-on sequence tell me the fault code on this model? Any help will be appreciated.
You have probably solved the problem by now. The reset button for the engine light is located behind the instrument panel, where there is a bunch of wires. When you find it, hold it down for five seconds. This is not an easy task, which is probably why they moved the button in later models.
Good luck. I tried to email you this info several weeks ago, but didn't sign into the website properly. Sorry.
Dropped my teen daughters car off with a laundry list of complaints today, service rep says the check engine light is on due to a faulty knock +/or oxygen sensor, cost will be $385. Coincidentally the cost to do a 30k mile engine tune up is also $385 to which I replied, must be 385 dollar day at (blank blank) subaru! Does anyone have any feedback as to the accuracy of this diagnosis and cost? If I don't have it done today will there be immediate issues? I did ask the service rep if this was a common problem to which he replied it was not. Called hubby and he didn't have a clue.
The check engine light (MIL) of my 87 toyota cressida is on when the engine rpm is greater than 2000 (whether it's in park or drive), and the light stays there until I turn off the engine. The MIL is working fine when I starts the engine, and the rpm is less than 2000. The scanner does not give the diagnostic trouble code (may be the OBID connector bad..). Any of you run into similar problem and has any idea how to fix it. Any help would be appreciated.
Have the identical problem...22,000 miles on 2002 Prizm. So far, gas cap, GAS Tank, and other items. Light goes back on after few days or 150 miles. Can't get car thru NY State insspection.
The check engine light has come on 4 times on my 96 Accord. The mechanic I go to has not been able to read a code any of these times. The last time I drove the car straight to the shop (2 miles away), and watched him used his Snap On code reader, and no code. He then cleared the light, and disconnected something which turned the CE light back on and generated a valid code which he was able to read. The car runs fine. The gas cap is tight.
I recently had a diagonstic ran on my wife's 99 Dodge Neon and, short answer, found out the spark plugs/wires needed replaced. Rather than paying a fortune for the mechanic to do it, I did it myself. After that, the light didn't flip off. Is there something I can do to reset the light or do I need to take it in to the mechanic?
WE JUST BROUGHT A 1995 TERCEL FOR MY SON IT HAS 180,000 MILES. iT RAN GOOD FOR A WEEK AND THEN STARTING HESITATING . WE WERE TOLD BY A MECHANIC TO CHANGE THE IGNITION COILS WHICH WE DID BUT IT DIDN'T HELP. tHE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAS BEEN ON FOR ABOUT A YEAR THE PREVIOUS OWNER COULDN'T GET ANYBODY TO FIGURE. ANYBODY HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS.
I guess you are correct about that. I scanned the OBD computer using Creader and it gave me codes 0760 and 0700 in that order. 760 is listed in as Shift solenoid C malfunction and 700 says transmission control system malfunction. I have no knowledge on these. Was wondering if you can explain a little as to what it might mean in terms of fixing this problem? I am sure it will cost money, but is it a major transmission job. I am worried about that to take it to the dealer. Once again, it is a 98 Plymouth Gr. Voyager V6 3.3L with about 80K miles, with average family driving in city/hwy conditions.
I have a 1999 Mercury Sable. My problem is the brake lights comes on intermittenly. I have noticed this when I am preparing to stop and when I accelerate . Can you help me, also my check engine light stays on. I have taken it in to be checked and was told that the egr valve needed to be replaced. I replaced the valve and the light is still on. Thanks for your reply asap.
If you mean the red brake warning light, probably caused by low fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir. If so, the brake pads are worn down or there's a small leak in the system. Either requires the system to be checked out.
For the check engine light, there isn't a code which says that the EGR valve requires replacement, but that there's a problem in the EGR system somewhere. There are 9 different EGR related codes. The most common EGR code for Fords is P0401, EGR Insufficient Flow Detected. If so, it's usually a DPFE (differential pressure feedback EGR) sensor malfunction. Check with your dealer, there might be an extended warranty on it.
Steve, I have a 1995 Corsica and have both the Service Engine Soon light and the ABS Brakes light are on. I was curious to find out what you did to make the light go out. I suspect that the ABS light is a faulty speed sensor on one of the wheels. It will go off sometimes when I first start the car and stay off until I apply the brakes the first time. Then it comes on and stays on. I would appreciate any help. Thank you. Regards, Dan
I've tried to search for an answer to my question but I have not really found anything.
Recently I purchased a 1998 Ford Escort zx2 with 55,500 miles on it after my 1995 Dodge Neon had to be junked bc of engine damage. I did a check of the VIN on autocheck.com and everything appeared to be clean. When I went with my father to look at the car everything also checked out. Also, in addition, my boyfriend looked at it, inside and out, and also took it for a drive and commented on how well it drove and how good under the hood looked.
The A/C doesn't really come out cold but that really doesn't bother me bc I am used to not having it anyway. I purchased the car last wednesday and have put about 250 miles on it. On the way home from my boyfriend's house about a half hour into the drive the service engine soon light came on. I checked the temp and it was normal, and I listened to see if I could hear anything, ie a timing belt going bad or any knocking noises and everything sounded normal. I even tried shutting my car off and restarting it a few minutes later but it still came on...
I have a warranty with the car that has a 100 dollar deductible. So, my questions are... Should I bring it back to the dealership and demand they look over my car since I just got it last week?? Or should I just take it to a place and have it looked at under the warranty?
Also, does anyone have any ideas of why the service engine soon light is on???
The engine control computer has detected an out of range signal from one of it's monitored sensors. Could be as simple as a loose gas cap, but could also be any of a dozen other things. Take it back to where it was bought and ask them to retrieve the stored diagnostic trouble codes.
Okay, I'm in a bad situation. A couple days ago I am driving home from work and within a few minutes the "check engine light" came on so I move to the side of the road and turn off my car. I turn it back on and the light goes off but as I continued driving I notice a strange squeeking noise. When I make it home I inspect the engine and notice the noise is coming from the distrubutor cap so, I purchase a new cap but I didn't have time to change it immediately. I drive it to work and back for the next 2 days with the old cap: the noise came and went on occassion but the engine light didn't come back on and the car drove fine. On day two, I go to drive my car and within 5-6 blocks my car stalls out on me at a light and I could not restart it; engine light on and all. I park it on the side of the road and give it a few tries but it would not catch so I change the distributor cap on the spot but, it still did not want to start. I gave it a few good tries and it reluctantly started so I decide to drive it very slowly back home(5 blcoks) but on the way it stalled out twice but not competely, kind of putt putted for a few seconds but would catch again. I finally make it back to my place where I shut the car down but noticed smoke coming out of the engine. Looking in the engine I see something that was RED HOT way down in the back of the engine. It was dark and have no idea what was burning. I was very worried that the car would catch fire but after about 15-20 minutes the red hotness and smoke died down.
So now it's the next day and I am scared to try and start my car up. I want to put in some new spark plugs in hopes that it will make a difference but the fact that something went red hot and smoked makes me very weary of trying to start it up again.
Has anyone experienced this? Any ideas of what the problem could be? any suggestions? Any help and advise would be greatly appreciated.
My check engine light is now staying on. It still seems to run fine aside from occasionally not wanting to fire when I turn the key. When it does this, I hold the accellerator down and crank it, then it starts, sputters a bit, and runs fine again. Any ideas? bholden
All right, have a situation, took my 97 Mercury Tracer for a diagnostic check, they said it was the Oxygen Sensor, so it was replaced and Check Engine light is still on, well they say it probably is a PCM problem and best bet is go to the dealership well I took it to another place and did diagnostics again and they are saying O2 sensor again, well he says that one is no good, so go back to first place he says it is good and is getting 15K OEMS...basically I am running back in forth between ASSES, now I talked to someone and they are saying their is multiple O2 sensors in this car, does anyone have any knowledge on that? I believe he said one is in front of the Manifold (The one they replaced all ready) and one behind it? Can someone give me some facts here, it would be much appreciated!!!
I used to have a Jeep Wrangler and to pull the check engine codes you just turn the key on and off 3 times and then it flashes the codes. Does anyone know if there is a way to do this on the 1999 Volvo S80 so I dont have to go to the auto parts store?
I believe 1.8 engine in the Prizm is the same as 1.8 Corolla engine. I had the same problem and disconnected the ground to reset the check engine light. Comes back after 200 miles or so. Got a OBDII reader from Pepboys and still waiting for the rebate. Anyway, the code was 171 lean fuel mixture.
Check online for a replacement Oxy sensor for 82 bucks. Also read somewhere about MAF (mass airflow sensor located between air filter and intake manifold) could be bad and you could clean it on some model of Corolla (should be the same for Prizm). Remove wire hardness (use pliers to hold down clip and carefully pry it off and try not to break it. Remove the two screw and slide it out (might have to move some of the cables). Look for two sensors deep inside the chamber (there is also two outside). If it looks like it is dirty, spray clean with electronic solvent. I didn't have any and use carb cleaner (this has old and eventually the sensor might need cleaning again). Use an air pump like the ones you use to put air in your tire. With a air fitting, blow the sensors clean. It should look shiny. Might also use q-tip to swap it a bit but be careful not to break the connectors. Let dry and replace. When putting back into the housing, the rubber gasket should be in the groves. It could be stretched a bit and will not fit. I use paper clip bent with a little hook and lift the gasket up and push sensor into the housing. Tighten the screws a bit and use a flat screw driver to push the rubber gasket into the slot. Make sure the gasket is all the way into the housing and not crushed outside and end up having a vacuum leak.
Any way, once the MAF is back into the housing, started the car and the light went off. Now I have a oxy sensor for a spare part. I might change it when I have some time. All in all, the car has great pick-up and runs like new.
I've had problems with the check engine light on my '98 ford windstar since I purchased it in July-200, within 6 months the check engine light came on. I took it to the dealership. The diaognostic test showed that there were 4 sensors bad and would cost $1,000 to fix. I then took it to my regular mechanic to fix it. He could not find a bad sensor but replaced a vacumn hose. It ran for about a week the check engine light came back on. After several trips (4-5) like this, he couldn't find a problem so he took the bulb out - the check engine light was no longer a problem. Until last year, when my state starting requiring an emissons test when the car is inspected. It would not pass, until the bulb was replaced and 3 sensors were fixed. After $900 of sensor repairs, the check engine light came back on the next day. I took it back in and was told one of the sensors was bad and had to be replaced (at not charge). Good, problem fixed....not so....within 2 weeks the light came back on. I didn't take it back in because I just knew that it was be another $900. I drove it all year with the sensor light on, un-inspected. Last week I took it in to see about the "check engine light", it was a bad sensor, replaced for $400. Light was off, two days later the light came back on. I took it in on Monday, the catylic converter had to be replaced, $790.
I'm wondering if I am getting false readings...because the light never goes off!!!!!
Had a similar issue. Several check engine lights. Ford always saying it was a bum sensor. Different sensor evey time. $500 job twice... remove the gas tank etc. Even tried changing the gas cap. On the third check engine light, being fed up, I went to my friendly neighborhood mechanic. He asked if when filling up the gas tank I stop when the gas gun clicks to tell me the tank is full or if I keep on filling the gas tank to top it up as much as possible. The latter was my answer. He said going past the « click point » changes the vapor pressure in the system (which is highly sensitive) and can upset the sensors. He reset the code for me and said not to go past the click point any more. It has been 2 years since and no more check engine light. Am now at 225,000 km. Give it a try. Hope that helps.
Ello, tonight on the way home i had a light come on the dash, it is an Orange background, green triangle with what looks like a A in it? has anyone any ideas what it is ? thank you in advance, Chris P.S. the car is a 1991 Estate Lambda, one owner from new full service history
I have a 96 Taurus GL station wagon. Check engine light came on over a year ago. Code was crank shaft position sensor. Replaced it, cleared the codes, and the light came back on. New code error was cam shaft position sensor. I waited over 6 months to replace it. I finally replaced cam shaft position sensor, cleared the codes, and the light remained on. The computer continues to read cam shaft position sensor after the fix. The car runs fine. An Auto Zone worker helped me and said problem could be in the drive assembly directly beneath the cam shaft position sensor. I don't want to keep spending money on this. I'm tempted to put a piece of tape over Check Engine Soon. Any ideas? The car has over 100,000 miles.
1995 Plymouth Neon 126,000 miles. Leaking oil-putting a quart every two weeks. Religiously am having oil changed. Check engine light came on-car seems to be fine. Light went off within 24 hours. Was off for 2 1/2 days and is now back on. Auto Zone can't check my computer because they only go back to 1996 with the computer. I am having the car checked. I drive about 1,000 miles a month. Most of the miles are highway. What do I need to know when I talk to the mechanic? Anyone else had problems with a Neon?
Cam sensor drive failures are pretty common with the 3.8 engine. The bushings wear out and allow play in the shaft, which wipes out the sensor. Not difficult to remove and check.
2004 malibu with just over 43,000 thousand miles, light came on yesterday, stayed solid. Just left local autozone who read code this code with this definition...can any one explain in layman's terms just what it means...autozone person checked my gas gap and told me problem might be there since it was not locking down correctly...purchased new gas cap and was told light should clear it self if this is this the problem in a few days...Would feel much better if i just could understand what the code means....thanks for any and all repsonses :: :confuse: P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak
Older cars had vented gas caps which allowed evaporating hydrocarbons (gasoline) to escape to the atmosphere. Newer cars have sealed systems which collect vapours in the charcoal cannister then draw them into the engine when it's started. The engine computer checks the system integrity every time the engine's started by applying vacuum to the system. If it won't hold vacuum for a specified time, it's an indication of a small leak in the system and a diagnostic trouble code is set along with the check engine light. Most common is the gas cap, but could be a small crack in a vacuum hose. Easiest way to set the code is by refuelling with the engine running.
Thank you for your quick reply, this morning morning when i started up the check light went out...So I am hoping that it was only the gas cap, but one final question where would I look for the vacuum hose if indeed there was a crack...once again thank you for your reply..
Hi, Do some cars run random checks on the vacuum integrity of the fuel evaporative system while they're running? Often people mention that fueling with engine running can set the light.
When I had a 2nd check engine solid light on 98 LeSabre I got the service manual out and finally found the conditions for GM to run the check. It didn't mention any check other than on lukewarm start. I often fill both cars with the motor running, usually warming up after 1 mile drive to a station.
I have a 1999 Dodge Neon and the check engine light is on. I checked the code and according to the maintenace book I have said erro #37. The book says the following "An open or shorted condition detected in the torch converter part throttle unlock solenoid control circuit". After I checked for loose connections, I cleared the memory. This worked for a week. Then the light came back on. I just changed the transmission fluid hoping that would help. The light is still on. How do I unlock the solenoid control circuit? Any advice or help would greatly be appreciated.
The check engine light came on and I had it diagnosed. It came up that there was air in the gas line. Tech thought it may be loose gas cap. Tightened cap, light went off, but a day later, after putting gas in car and tightening cap, the light came on again. Do I need a new cap or do you think there are more serious problems? Advice would be appreciated, before taking it to dealer and paying "BIG BUCKS"
i was driving down the road and my light came on and the car stalled out. i let it sit for about 15 min. and it started the light stayed on but it drove good for about a mile and stalled again. i can go about a mile after it sits and stalls. what could that be. there is 190,000 miles on.
I was driving my Dodge Neon when all of a sudden it started shake like it had hiccups and the RPMS would bounce up and down drastically for about 2 minutes as the car sputtered and than the Engine light would come on and the car would drive fine after that. The light would stay on for about 1 day or two and than just shut off on it's own. It goes through this same thing every couple of weeks, I took it too a dealer to get an oil change and asked him to check it out, so he hooked it up to the scanner and said everything seemed fine, however he did this at a time when the light wasn't on. So my question is does anyone know what would cause this and does he have to hook up the scanner when the engine light is on????? Any help would be great.
I haven't been to the message board in years and I was just directed to this topic. I just hit 35,000 and the check engine light went on. I know about the loose gas cap, so it's not that. Within the last three months I started using regular gas and wondered if it could be that. I just had the car serviced at 33,000 miles. Any suggestions besides taking an expensive trip to Toyota. Other than the idiot light, the car rides great.
I've got a 95 Dodge Stratus with 140,000ish it's a 4 cylinder, not sure if it's a 2.0 or what. but the check engine light is on and it has periodic siezures. It will be accelerating nicely then suddenly the rpms will drop, the car will shake very briefly, then it will resume accelerating normally. Is this a fuel sensor issue or could it be plug wire related? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks and best wishes. :confuse:
has anyone ever opened up a dodge computer to do repairs? I have a 95 5.9L ram van 3500 with an electrical short in the ecm. is there a way to remove the resin goop that covers the components on the inside. it appears to be a simple fix if i can get inside without destroying it HELP!
Comments
Thanks
http://www.ripoffreport.com/results.asp?q1=ALL&q5=aamco&submit2=Search%21&q4=&q6=&q3=&q2=&- - q7=
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/aamco.htm
Good luck. I tried to email you this info several weeks ago, but didn't sign into the website properly. Sorry.
Any of you run into similar problem and has any idea how to fix it.
Any help would be appreciated.
Dealer is hopeless.
Would appreciate hearing what you come up with.
Steve K.
He is stumped.
Any ideas?
John
Host
Thanks for any help
Rakesh Pandey
For the check engine light, there isn't a code which says that the EGR valve requires replacement, but that there's a problem in the EGR system somewhere. There are 9 different EGR related codes. The most common EGR code for Fords is P0401, EGR Insufficient Flow Detected. If so, it's usually a DPFE (differential pressure feedback EGR) sensor malfunction. Check with your dealer, there might be an extended warranty on it.
I have a 1995 Corsica and have both the Service Engine Soon light and the ABS Brakes light are on. I was curious to find out what you did to make the light go out. I suspect that the ABS light is a faulty speed sensor on one of the wheels. It will go off sometimes when I first start the car and stay off until I apply the brakes the first time. Then it comes on and stays on. I would appreciate any help. Thank you.
Regards,
Dan
I've tried to search for an answer to my question but I have not really found anything.
Recently I purchased a 1998 Ford Escort zx2 with 55,500 miles on it after my 1995 Dodge Neon had to be junked bc of engine damage. I did a check of the VIN on autocheck.com and everything appeared to be clean. When I went with my father to look at the car everything also checked out. Also, in addition, my boyfriend looked at it, inside and out, and also took it for a drive and commented on how well it drove and how good under the hood looked.
The A/C doesn't really come out cold but that really doesn't bother me bc I am used to not having it anyway. I purchased the car last wednesday and have put about 250 miles on it. On the way home from my boyfriend's house about a half hour into the drive the service engine soon light came on. I checked the temp and it was normal, and I listened to see if I could hear anything, ie a timing belt going bad or any knocking noises and everything sounded normal. I even tried shutting my car off and restarting it a few minutes later but it still came on...
I have a warranty with the car that has a 100 dollar deductible. So, my questions are... Should I bring it back to the dealership and demand they look over my car since I just got it last week?? Or should I just take it to a place and have it looked at under the warranty?
Also, does anyone have any ideas of why the service engine soon light is on???
Thanks.
A couple days ago I am driving home from work and within a few minutes the "check engine light" came on so I move to the side of the road and turn off my car. I turn it back on and the light goes off but as I continued driving I notice a strange squeeking noise. When I make it home I inspect the engine and notice the noise is coming from the distrubutor cap so, I purchase a new cap but I didn't have time to change it immediately. I drive it to work and back for the next 2 days with the old cap: the noise came and went on occassion but the engine light didn't come back on and the car drove fine.
On day two, I go to drive my car and within 5-6 blocks my car stalls out on me at a light and I could not restart it; engine light on and all. I park it on the side of the road and give it a few tries but it would not catch so I change the distributor cap on the spot but, it still did not want to start. I gave it a few good tries and it reluctantly started so I decide to drive it very slowly back home(5 blcoks) but on the way it stalled out twice but not competely, kind of putt putted for a few seconds but would catch again. I finally make it back to my place where I shut the car down but noticed smoke coming out of the engine. Looking in the engine I see something that was RED HOT way down in the back of the engine. It was dark and have no idea what was burning. I was very worried that the car would catch fire but after about 15-20 minutes the red hotness and smoke died down.
So now it's the next day and I am scared to try and start my car up. I want to put in some new spark plugs in hopes that it will make a difference but the fact that something went red hot and smoked makes me very weary of trying to start it up again.
Has anyone experienced this? Any ideas of what the problem could be? any suggestions?
Any help and advise would be greatly appreciated.
bholden
http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/
Grounding a wire or something like that?
JD
Check online for a replacement Oxy sensor for 82 bucks. Also read somewhere about MAF (mass airflow sensor located between air filter and intake manifold) could be bad and you could clean it on some model of Corolla (should be the same for Prizm). Remove wire hardness (use pliers to hold down clip and carefully pry it off and try not to break it. Remove the two screw and slide it out (might have to move some of the cables). Look for two sensors deep inside the chamber (there is also two outside). If it looks like it is dirty, spray clean with electronic solvent. I didn't have any and use carb cleaner (this has old and eventually the sensor might need cleaning again). Use an air pump like the ones you use to put air in your tire. With a air fitting, blow the sensors clean. It should look shiny. Might also use q-tip to swap it a bit but be careful not to break the connectors. Let dry and replace. When putting back into the housing, the rubber gasket should be in the groves. It could be stretched a bit and will not fit. I use paper clip bent with a little hook and lift the gasket up and push sensor into the housing. Tighten the screws a bit and use a flat screw driver to push the rubber gasket into the slot. Make sure the gasket is all the way into the housing and not crushed outside and end up having a vacuum leak.
Any way, once the MAF is back into the housing, started the car and the light went off. Now I have a oxy sensor for a spare part. I might change it when I have some time. All in all, the car has great pick-up and runs like new.
I'm wondering if I am getting false readings...because the light never goes off!!!!!
Please help!
P.S. the car is a 1991 Estate Lambda, one owner from new full service history
Thanks!
http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/
Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak
Do some cars run random checks on the vacuum integrity of the fuel evaporative system while they're running? Often people mention that fueling with engine running can set the light.
When I had a 2nd check engine solid light on 98 LeSabre I got the service manual out and finally found the conditions for GM to run the check. It didn't mention any check other than on lukewarm start. I often fill both cars with the motor running, usually warming up after 1 mile drive to a station.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Inap
http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/
So my question is does anyone know what would cause this and does he have to hook up the scanner when the engine light is on?????
Any help would be great.
http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/