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Have your mechanic email me, my email is in my profile.
I have the diagrams and diagnostic chart uploaded to the web and can give him the link to them.
Also, what is the voltage of the wire going into the idle cylnoid supposed to be?
Well, its a little more complicated than measuring the voltage to the control valve. You see, you need a test cable and you check milliAmps. He'll see when he looks at the diagnostic chart.
And, is the unit, negative operate? or positive operate? by the computer? (questions from mechanic).
It gets its signal from the ECM (or in Mercedes case, they call it and EEC electronic engine control).
Years ago the light came on in my Chevy. I took it to my regular shop where they pulled a code that said I had a bad torque converter ($1500 repair). As I shook my head the grizzled old mechanic walked over looked into the engine bay and said, "you got a loose wire down there". He connected the wire, the light went out and the torque converter worked well for the next 10 years.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
see very little on replacing ECUs. does it cause any further damage if replaced?
the engine light came on, then every other light did too, then the engine sputtered and car just died, but was able to restart. am so confused on what to do: replace the ecu or safer to buy another car?
I think the hard part of this will be, do you just take the whole loss now and unload the car as-is for whatever any will give for it (which may be nothing with flood damage)......or do you spend another 1K plus, in the hopes that you can fix the problem, but then I think you wouldn't be sure you could fix it for 1K and you don't know how much more you'd get for a flood damaged vehicle anyhow.
Is this covered by insurance? If so, take the money and run as fast as you can.
only front floor areas affected by water. as it is the car is undrivable since it stalls, smokes and is useless. need to get it fixed to leave the lot.
Have you considered the ECU from a wrecked vehicle? Not sure that would work logistically since it's already at a repair shop, and your options would be to either let them fix it with a new part or tow it out of there.......in the hopes that a used part would fix it.
checking and replacing a few parts, my CEL light is still on. So my theory is this: after the vehicle reaches 100,000+ the computer is pre-programmed to turn the CEL light on and remain on so that Infiniti owners bring in their Infiniti cars back to the dealership to have the CEL light turned-off. Believe me when I say that I checked everything. I have over 20+ years of diagnosing and repairing cars, which includes both domestics and imports.
So, if you or someone you know owns a 1990-1997 Infiniti G20 and have the CEL light on with the mileage over 100,000, then let me know because I may file a class action lawsuit against Infiniti for this type of problem.
I had the same problem (code) and your egr solenoid valve is located on this 1994 infinity 20 is under the intake manifold. It is attached to a bracket near the starter. It has two vacuum hoses going to it and also a two wire connector. You have to purchase this part at the dealer only because you cannot get it after-market. It should only cost about $20-30 bucks. Hope this info helps.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Could anybody help me understand whats going on?
One way (tipped off by a certain Joe in cars.com with proper disclaimers of course) is to disconnect and reconnect the right [red ( neg?)] pole of the battery (in Subaru, after putting ignition key in run position before reconnecting to avoid the alarm).
In my case, I had the problem three times. The Subaru Garage replaced minor but costly "emissions" related equipment but had found nothing major. The second time it happened was just after I filled the gas tank and, funny enough, one day after a $300 bill for nothing. I thought it might be gas cap (a loose one can cause the light to go off). Then I read a bundle of articles blaming a particular gas retailer for so-called "bad gas". Then I suspected the problem. My own guess is that it has nothing to do with retailer A or B, but rather the recent increases in the gasoline/ethanol mix which may vary. Somehow, the Subaru (or...???) "computer" does not seem to understand (or like) the cleaner fuel blends of ethanol (ethyl alcohol). In Brazil they call it simply "alcool" (without the "h" and the driver jokingly says: “...30 liters for the car and one for me”.
Most vehicles built after 2003 are equipped with sensors that monitor the fuel type. Which is why most can run E-85 or straight gasline with minimal performance decrease.
Note that I didn't say minimal economy decrease.
Also, just an FYI.
Not all vehicles can be reset by disconnecting the battery cables. Some vehicles retain the memory regardless of whether there is a power loss or not.
And some vehicles will actually log a trouble code if you remove the battery cables.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I checked all fluids etc... everything appears to be fine, what gives?
It may not be still under warranty.
Sometimes that happens when it is late and I don't take the time to read the fine print.
Did you check to see what trouble codes it had?
YOU can pull the trouble codes here.
But have you checked to see if you have spark?
Do you have fuel to the injector?
Does it have compression?
Oh yeah, does this thing have an engine? It would sure be nice to know which engine it has.
My crystal ball is broken, so you have to help me out here.
You'll have to forgive me, I'm kind of dense, was that an insult?
Well, I can see where this is gonna go.
That's ok.
If you have spark, compression and fuel it should start or at least puff and sputter.
Now, enlighten me as to how you checked fuel, spark and compression.
Did you check fuel pressure? If so, what was it?
What was the compression?
How did you check for spark? Was it weak or strong? Blue, white or yellow?
I'm willing to attempt to help you, but if you aren't gonna supply any info, then like I said, my crystal ball is broken, so I'm afraid I can only do so much.
It might provide some useful information to other folks.
As for the crystal ball......
You have to understand that I cannot see or hear the problem that a person is having, I can only go by what information a person writes here. The more information that is provided, the better "picture" we can get of the problem.
The thing about newer cars is, you can have spark, fuel and compression and a no start.
In your case, it was probably a weak spark problem.
Hence the questions about how you checked for spark.
Can a crank sensor contribute to a weak spark? (don't think so)---it's either ON or OFF, right?
http://www.batauto.com/
Usually, which is why his post confuses me a bit.
Would be nice to know how he found it and what they tested.
:surprise:
is it possible the "mag pickup" is not gapped properly or the sensor / tooth distance is varying or too large such that the circuit processing the signal from the coil is not producing a steady repeatable signal?
I am so lucky. :confuse:
Well, it sounded good anyway. :shades:
that site is a good one though!
MH is a 2001 27' Four Winds on a '99 Ford E350 w/V-10 Super-Duty chasis.
Had to make a short downhill run to get to the plowed main drag with the street VERY slippery.
Installed tire chains on both outside rear wheels, pointed 'er downhill and then the fun began.
Each time I applied the brakes to slow my downhill coasting rate the MH would skid sideways, but eventually come to a stop..'way too close to parked cars a couple of times.
WHAT...?
With the tire chains I could easily back up and did so several times before I was able to keep myself centered in the roadbed for enough tries to reach the main drag.
??..MH skids if I go forward but seems to have TONS of traction uphill in reverse.
Front wheels locking up, obviously, but very low speed (a baby could crawl faster) so no ABS activation.
Aha, no rear brakes.....
Had I come to this realization at the time I could have used the rear implemented e-brake and been safely on my way a whole lot sooner.
The ABS activated on numerous occassions as I completed my drive home, ~7 miles, that evening so I know ABS is working, at least partially.
So I recently jacked/raised the rear tires of the MH (two 4 ton jackstands) and while there is clearly some level of braking at the rear (braked rear wheels did not turn at idle nor slightly above), lo and behold, I can easily get the speedo up to 10MPH with heavy, HEAVY, (left) foot pressure on the brake pedal. Next I quite thoroughly visually inspected the ABS module/manifold, brake lines, master cyclinder, fluid reservoir and rear brake rotors and pads. Everything seemed normal and intact but I did come to realize that the Ford had only a three channel ABS system since there was only one brake fluid line to the rear.
I deem it unlikely that both rear brake calipers have siezed but I now have to check that for a possibility.
Someone on another forum related that the newer, '99 included, E-series Super-Duty chasis have a stage 1 ABS mode wherein fluid pressure to the rear brakes is electrically limited (a "virtual" brake proportioning valve/manifold??). Then if that doesn't suffice to keep'm roll'n then the normal ABS mode activates, pulsing the rear fluid pressure release solenoid on and off.
So, has that Stage 1 ABS manifold port failured and is continuously leaking, bleeding off, my rear braking fluid pressure?
Any suggestions?
The dealer charged me $457 to replace the valve.
When I picked up the car, it still felt like it was dragging--like having the emergency brake on. I took the Honda to 2 independent mechanics. One thought the engine was dragging. The second one did not think the engine was dragging but commented that usually is is a $40 oil pressure switch and not a $457 valve job on a Honda with my mileage.
The above is after 3 years of servicing my car at the Honda dealer where in the past 6 months I have noticed they may not be doing all that is part of the service. For example, my battery died after a service where they purportedly checked the battery. Soon after the warranty expired, the car has begun to break down.
Any suggestions.
echoparkgirl
diagnostics, with pin-point flow charts testing, TSB's, computer code testing.
He said Code 67-1 meant catalytic converter failure and cost of $397 part, $90 labor.
I called Honda and a reputable muffler place and they both said it should have been
code P-0420 for catalytic coverter failure.
Is the 67-1 code legitimate? Is this a generic code of some kind?
So, yes the code is legitimate. More than likely he is using a Honda OEM scanner. Which if he is pulling Manufacturer codes, tells me he is set up to work on Hondas quite bit.
I am assuming that when you say Honda, you are referring to the dealer. They should have easily known this.
As for the "reputable muffler place", remember that they do mufflers. Their mindset is that if the code isn't on their Generic OBD2 scanner, then it isn't real.
I'll be honest, I am not sure which bothers me the most, the fact that the Honda place and muffler place didn't know what they were talking about, or the fact that you felt mechanics were so crooked that they were lying to you.
There may be an underlying cause to the problem, but the fact that he went through the flow charts and TSBs, says he did some extensive diagnostics.
As for the cost, if that included the diagnostics, then you got a deal.
The Honda dealer dealer did not know of code 67-1 and they want $800 for the service if they determine it is
indeed P-0420.
Due to personal financing constraints, and that I will need state inspection/emission inspection (in Missouri) by
Dec. 31, I intend to do the repair in Early Dec.
As long as the car is running well do I need to be worried about cauing more damage if I let it go a few months?
If it is the three way cat, if you continue to run it, there is the possibility that the cat will plug and leave you on the side of the road.
Then again, it may go for a while and not plug.
To be honest, with 3 months away and not knowing how much you drive, that is a tough call and there is a possibility that a partially plugged cat could cause detonation and early failure later on.
Do you know if he checked the Oxygen sensors to confirm that they are working properly and that there are no vacuum or exhaust leaks? Those can contribute to that fault code.