Check Engine light



  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    I am correct in assuming that it almost alwasy happens after you fuel up? Don't fuel up then.ha ha,sorry couldn't resist. Seriously,are you fueling it up and are you topping it off? If you are,Don't. The next time you get fuel,when the nozzle kicks off the first time,stop. Then see if it still causes the problem. It sounds like the tank is being topped off and that can create a problem with the fuel back feeding into the evaporator canister and basically flooding the engine.That isn't technically correct,but you get the idea. It would cause a faulty EGR and O2 sensor code to trip too. So,get your vehicle back and and find a fuel station near your home and fill up like I told you and drive it around your home area,and see if it dies,if it doesn't then that was your problem. If it does continue to die (which I think it won't),then you have a fuel problem. Let me know.

    P.S. I'd like that list,that would be cool,my kids would really get a kick out of it. I think they own most of the Disney films.
  • mevoicemevoice Member Posts: 10
    No, I don't "top off!" I read that in other posts...and I have always known not to do that. When the nozzle clicks off, I stop. Could the 89 octane be to low for it? The owner's manual says it's OK, but maybe it isn't. As many miles as I travel, and as high as gas has gotten, I haven't used the 93 ..but I sure will if it's causing me a problem. It doesn't "ping," though...seems to have plenty of power. (When it's RUNNING, that is.) So if it's FUEL in some way, I'm stumped. Well, tomorrow (Tuesday) is the big day. The shop will be open, and the shop manager will have a fit when he sees my list! But that's OK with me. I want my truck fixed, dammit! I don't think he'll have a clue, but then I can take it elsewhere under the warranty. I just haven't found an "elsewhere" yet, but will get on the phone today, as you suggested....and start looking for a good mechanic. I had an interesting conversation with the Finance Manager yesterday. He saw my faxed list of probable problems,(from YOU GUYS!!) and called me. He asked where I got all the instant information on my truck. I told him that I had come to realize that I needed to get educated about that truck if it was ever to be fixed properly...and that I found "some people" who were experts to help me learn. (I didn't say where..I figured he'd laugh and put this forum down.) And you know what? He asked if he could have your numbers....he also owns an Isuzu Trooper and can't get his OWN fixed properly there at the dealership...where he works!! Funny, huh? I think he's actually on my side. And he's the one who could give me trouble about this....pretty funny, huh? Anyway, I will have to give them this last chance to fix it...but I've become a non-believer, so I will also be looking for a REAL mechanic at the same time. I will also insist on getting the codes from him. I'll send the list of animation to your Email can also look me up on the net at "[email protected]" Talk mitcha later! MM
  • nelson12nelson12 Member Posts: 1
    It sounds like the gas cap was not replaced correctly. If the inspection station removes the gas cap to perform an inspection then they probably did not tighten it all the way. I have heard of the "check engine light" coming on due to a loose gas cap on several occasions, including on my 1999 Audi.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    Ok,if the trouble codes that came up were
    any of these:
    P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction
    P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
    P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak)
    P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Malfunction
    P0444 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
    P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted
    P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction
    P0447 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open
    P0448 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Shorted
    P0449 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
    P0450 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Malfunction
    P0451 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
    P0452 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input
    P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
    P0454 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Intermittent
    P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)
    P1441 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Flow During Non-Purge
    Then more than likely the fuel cap is the problem.I would have them replace it and test the fuel tank system.(it is a test that involves a pressure check on the fuel system)>I'm pretty sure most DEQ/EPA test centers in CA do the test as part of the emmissions test.
    I know this is frustrating for you and I apologize,but it is a matter of asking the right info and getting the right answers. The fuel up answer changed a lot of things on the diagnosis,so it put me in a different direction.
    With out having the vehicle in front of me to check things,I have to go on symptoms,which is 10 times harder than having the vehicle to check things.Sorry for the frustration.
  • mevoicemevoice Member Posts: 10
    I do appreciate all the extra work and information you sent me! I have printed it out, and will fax it (in addition to what I have already faxed) to the shop supervisor. I will also make SURE that I get all the codes they came up with, as they have not been on my receipt so far. Boy, is he going to hate the sight of me! Anyway, they will know that I'm on to it..not just blindly accepting their "results" that send me out on the highway into impending trouble. I just mailed my first car pmt. this morning..and I've driven the truck for exactly 3 1/2 days. Really gets to me. Anyway, much peace to ALL of you, and I'll no doubt be back in touch with the results!
    I'm so grateful for ALL of you and what you do to help others in a jam. Big hugs.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    My impression of 0patience is that he has TONS of patience when helping folks out around here.

    Every now and then he might live up to his nickname - but NEVER when he's trying to help one of the members of our community! ;->

    Thanks 0patience - you really ARE a tremendous help - Town Hall is much the better for your assistance.

    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • keyukeyu Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 Mazda Millenia. After engine oil and air filter changed, the "Check Engine" light was on whenever I started the car. Anybody has any idea?

    Thanks in advance,
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    When you say that the check engine light comes on whenever you start the car,does it go out right away?
    If it is,that is how it is supposed to work, if it doesn't go out,Ok,there is a problem.
    The bad news is that your vehicle is the OBD2 system and it requires a scanner to access the codes.
  • keyukeyu Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, 0patience.

    Unfortunately, I guess my car is in 2nd case.

    I'm going to bring it to a workshop and have it checked. Which one is usually better, the dealer or an independent shop?

    I feel much more comfortable now since 0patience provided a homepage link with all the OBD2 codes so that I'm able to know what's going on with my car. I'll keep you guys updated.

    I really love this community thanks to 0patience and many other nice people.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    my preferance would be the independant shop.
    That is just my opinion,though.
  • mevoicemevoice Member Posts: 10
    Hi, again! Well, I think that list I sent to the dealer on my 99 Isuzu Trooper, is going to put me back on the road. (All the info you and the others gave me.) I went by there yesterday, and didn't get a warm reception, believe me. The Shop Supr said, "I'm glad you got some REAL help, even though it's only on paper, and now you know ALL about fixing your truck. It's really gratifying to know how many people know so much more than WE do." He said that thanks to my list of demands, my truck wasn't ready.....and probably would NOT be for awhile.

    And THEN.....yesterday evening, he called, ever so nicey-poo. "Seems we did find circuit trouble in the wiring harness, and your OS Sensor. Blahblahblah, and your gas was burning too rich. The suggestions were amazingly accurate for someone who never saw your truck." HOW'S THAT, GUYS??? It's still not ready, but I think this might be it, I hope. So much thanks to you and the others!!! Don't know what would have happened if I hadn't found you. I'll let you know how it comes out!! Over and out....a "Grateful Groupie..." XX00MM
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    I hope they got it all figured out.I'm crossing my fingers for you.Let us know how it comes out.
    If you need more help,you know where to find us.
  • oren1oren1 Member Posts: 17
    Last weekend during heavy rain my maxima was partially floated while parked. The water level reached slightly above bumper. I was able to start my car without any problems, but my engine light came on and will not go away. Car runs fine. No problems.
    Does anyone know what could be the problem and how to resolve it without taking it back to the dealer? Does anyone know how to reset computer?
    Thank you
  • daddioof4daddioof4 Member Posts: 50
    Help, I have a 96 Voyager with the 2.4liter 4 banger 3 speed tranny. I won't bore you with all the problems, but I need info about the engine light. It has come on 3 times in the past, all 3 times the dealers has charged me $55-$60 to hook it up to the diagnostic machine. To tell me it needs "Decarbed". Meaning, $100 to run a heavy duty fuel injector cleaner through the engine and $50 for a tuneup (replace the plugs). Total cost of $205-$210. I figure I can run STP or some other cleaner through and replace my plugs my self for around $12. 2 questions though, 1) Will doing this automatically turn the engine light out, if not how do I turn it off? 2) How do I know for sure that it wasn't something different? Please give me your $.02 worth.
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    Of those 3 scanners, which would you recommend?
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    It helps more than confuses. Your summaries were more or less identical to what I was thinking. I do have a laptop. I also have a Chrysler (Jeep).

    There is probably alot of advantage to having a stand alone unit that can also monitor, so I'll probably go with the Autoxray.
  • debbi10debbi10 Member Posts: 10
    I have been having trouble with my check engine light,too. When it first started coming on the dealer said I wasn't screwing the gas cap on tight enough. That seemed to take care of it for a while, but now it is coming on off and on again and they can't seem to find a code in the computer.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    If the light has come on,then it has stored a code.What they code is,will give a referance to start with.If it isn't giving any codes,then you have a preoblem.Are you going to a dealer?Is it under warranty?If it isn't,there are better shops than the dealer.Just my opinion.
  • eggnog1eggnog1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 ford explorer SOHC XLT. The "check engine" light came on just as the 3 year 36,000 warranty expired. It has never come on before.

    I did change the transmission fluid a couple of days before the light came on but maybe that was coincidence. Engine runs fine, so I took the word of one post here and tried resetting it myself by disconnecting the negative cable of the battery for about 10 minutes. It worked and has not come back on in two days so far.

    One mechanic told me disconnecting the battery would not work on this and newer models, they would have to reset it themselves. Well, obviously he was wrong.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    Because,if you knew about the system,you would know that you didn't clear the codes,all you did was to affect the operation of the system. The light may have come on becuase of a connection or something and when you disconnected the battery,you affected the cause.
    I have to side with the mechanic on this.If you get a hard code,you won't be able to clear the codes by disconnecting the battery,but you may know more about the system than I do.
  • debbi10debbi10 Member Posts: 10
    I just got my 98 jeep back from the dealer again now he says the check engine light is from the nuetral safety switch.This does not make sense to me because the book says that the check engine light is from the emission control system.The nuetral safety switch just keeps it from starting in gear. It also costs $295. and he has to order it.I know 2 people who had theirs go out and the car would not start. I think I need a nwe computer but when I proved to the dealer that it was under warranty he decided I didn't need a PCM.I have never had trouble starting my jeep. My problems began in May. I started my jeep and it revved up to 3000 RPM and would not idle down , when I put it in gear it did 20 mph without touching the gas pedal. It did it a couple times more and I called the dealer and made an appointment. It quit for awhile and the dealer said he couldn't fix it if it wasn't doing it so we set it up that I would come in when it did it. It did I called they said come on out but the new service manager was a jerk and said "I don't know how you expect to be put in front of these other cars there is at least a 2 week wait" I tried to explain that I had been there before and was told on the phone to come right away because if I turn it off it might not do it when the car is started again. He said " You are right we can't fix it if it is not doing it but park over there and we will get to it when we can" I said " you've got to be kidding if you are not going to check it right now then I am not leaving it. What do you think I should do about the way it is idling?" he said" I'd advise you to use a lot of brake!" What a jerk! anyway I took it to a reputable mechanic and he played with it for awile and when he disconnected the throttle position sensor it seemed to idle down. So I did that for about a month every time it would happen. After I did the check engine light w
  • debbi10debbi10 Member Posts: 10
    I don't know how I sent the last response I pushed spell check and it left but it left out part of my comments. I am brand new to the computer and I don't type so please be patient with me. They ended up repacing the TPS but 4 days later it happened again. They kept it for a week and decided it was the computer and that I should take it to the dealer. When I called for the appointment they agreed it sounded like the computer but it was out of warranty and would cost $1500. I read the book before I got there and found that the PCM is covered to 70000 miles and I had 4000 miles to go. They then said oh its probably not the computer and did other things. Now I have only 1500 miles to go and my check engine light is on all the time. HELP!
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    Call theh serrvice rep or zone rep phone number that is in your owners manual,it should also be on your warranty papers. Explain everything you have been thru,have all your documentation with you,including the mileage it started,the repair order numbers and anything else you can think of.If you don't have these things,get them or take it to them right away and make sure all of your complaints are noted on the repair order. If you do not do these things,they will try to weasel out of the warranty. The dealer is trying to put off fixing it until the warranty runs out,then he will charge you and then turn it in for warranty,gets a double payment that way.As for your problem,if unhooking the TPS makes it quit,then there is still a problem with the TPS,IAC valve or the throttle shaft.Are you sure they even replaced the TPS? It doesn't sound like it.

    Oh yeah,when you call the customer service number,they should give you an event number,make sure you keep it in a place you can find it.If this goes further,you will need it.Is there another dealer in your area that you can go to?
    If there is,I would,the warranty is good at any dealer.
  • debbi10debbi10 Member Posts: 10
    Yes they replaced the TPS cause I have the old part, it is probably good. I didn't get off work early enough to call the customer service number.Can the neutral safety switch really cause the check engine light to come on? If they put it in and it still comes can I get my money back? Oh my jeep is right hand drive.I was also having trouble with my back-up lights,flashers, and dome lights only working part time. Does this sound like a PCM problem?
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    If the neutral safety switch were a problem,well.....Let me explain what it does.
    The neutral safety switch is designed to prevent cranking the engine while in gear,if you are in any gear other than neutral or park,it doesn't allow voltage to the starter.That is all it does.
    So,in answer to your question.NO,the neutral safety switch will NOT cause the check engine light to come on.But,the back up lights are controlled by it if it is an automatic,if it is a manual trans then it isn't. It sounds more like you have an electrical problem more than a problem with the PCM. Best bet,pay a reputable shop to see if there are any trouble codes.Explain to them what is happening and that ALL you need is to retrieve the codes,nothing more,to obtain the correct advice as what to do,they may even offer assistance.
  • debbi10debbi10 Member Posts: 10
    I finally got off work in time to call Chrysler. They told me where a different 5 star dealer is so I am going to call and make an appointment tomorrow. They said to have them check it out on the computer to see if they agree with the other diagnosis.He said he had no idea if the neutral safety switch could cause the check engine light to come on. I guess you know more than chrysler!Now do you think I am obligated to pay for the part since they made me sign the work order before they ordered the part? How do you know so much about vehicles? I am sure glad you do.Thanks again!
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    do you think I am obligated to pay for the part
    since they made me sign the work order before they
    ordered the part?

    NO,you haven't bought the part and they can send it back.Have they done any work that you haven't paid for?Call them and tell them that you called Chrysler and that they se up an appointment for you at another dealer and if they want to squack about the part,they can call Chrysler.
    How do you know so much about

    I've been a mechanic for just shy of 20 years,I handle the repairs for a fleet in my region and have to constantly deal with independant shops and dealers and the manufacturers.(Some of our vehicles are still under warranty)Mainly,I am a heavy equipment mechanic,but since our fleet has cars and pickups,I have to keep up with them.So they pay me to know how to keep the repair costs at a minimum.I have probably $5000 worth of information at home,too. So it helps when I need to review a problem.
  • debbi10debbi10 Member Posts: 10
    talked to the other dealer and am going in friday.They told me that the 98 can store up to 58 codes in the check engine light. He said they really tied too much together and they have had a lot of problems with them. Maybe I should order my 2000 now. It is the last year that they are going to make them in the right hand drive. But do I really want another jeep. I do love mine though if I could just get this engine problem figured out. And they don't make gun metal blue anymore. Well thanks for all the info!
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    debbi10: Now wait a minute. I have a 97 Cherokee Sport that I love like a member of the family. Please refrain from making disparaging remarks about Jeeps in general. You hurt my Jeep's feelings. :-)

    Opatience: In my '97, which I guess ought to be OBD2, I am still able to get the trouble codes via the ignition key sequence (ie. On Off On Off On within 5 seconds). Any chance Debbi10 can do the same in her '98?

    Debbi10: Do you have a digital odometer? If yours will work like my 97 does, try turning the ignition on and off, on and off, and back on. Do this quickly (within 5 seconds), then wait several more seconds. If it works then:
    1) If you have the digital odometer, the odometer miles will temporarilly disappear and 2 digit hexadecimal trouble codes will begin to appear. The last trouble code will be "55", so if that's the first one to appear, then you don't have any trouble codes stored (at least if it works like mine). While the 2 digit number is displayed, the check engine light will also be blinking because....
    2) Whether you have the digital odometer or not, the check engine light will "blink" the code. For example, if the light blinks 5 times, followed by a short pause and then 5 more times, thats "55". Etc. Maybe you can get an idea what the codes are before you go in. I have my factory service manual and can translate the 2 digit hex code to the Pxxxx scan tool code, if there are any.

    I don't think they made any changes between the 97 and 98 model years. I don't know which Jeep you have, but I suspect they share the same computer system.
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    Sorry. Its very late. The 2 digit code won't be hexadecimal. It'll be just regular 2 digits (00 thru 99).
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    I guess I dropped the ball on that one.
    Yes,should be able to retrieve the codes by the key on/off method. Jeep/Chrysler(certain ones)is the exception to the OBD2 setup. Jeep/Chrysler uses both forms of trouble codes,the 2 digit and the P0 codes.
    Thanks,I went braindead,I'm feeling much better now though.ha ha
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329

    One other thing. There is a MIL code 37 (P1899) "P/N Switch Stuck in Park or Gear". The DTC description is "Incorrect input state detected for the Park/Neutral switch, auto trans only". Might this be what the first dealer found?
  • keyukeyu Member Posts: 3
    The "check engine" light was on after the oil and air filter changed on my Millenia about 2 weeks ago. 0patience helped me to find the web link for OBD II system code. Funny enough, when I planed to take it to a workshop, the "check engine" light mysteriously went off in a morning three days ago right after I started the engine. It's not been on since then. Sounds like a good news.
    I'm not sure if there's still anything wrong with it or the car just fixed itself automatically.
    Anyway, I'm so grateful to all of your helps and comments here. I think I found a nice home for my cars.

    Thanks, guys!
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    The problem has probably corrected itself.If that is the case,it is no problem.One thing to note though,the system will store that code for a number of cold starts,I can't remember off hand how many,but it will be a little while.If it comes on again,remember that it came on,so if there are 2 codes present,it is going to affect the diagnosis.More than likely,it will be the same or a like problem.
  • debbi10debbi10 Member Posts: 10
    I really blew, I didn't get to check the computer until after I had taken it to the dealer. I had a 97 cherokee but I rolled it. When I got the 98 it seemed to be exactly the same as the 97 had been. I do have digital odometer and wish I could have checked the codes before I took it in. I got it back at 5:00 PM last night. It cost$509.79 , I sure hope it is fixed. They also did my 2 recalls. They had to fix the harness on the top of the liftgate, the wires were exposed on one side and I guess were shorting out. They did put in a neutral safety switch, I have the old parts. Anyway to check it to see if it is really bad? Opatience.... you'd probably know that. Could those wires cause the engine to accelerate? It is not logical but it hasn't done it yet.
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    Yes there is a way to test the switch. You need a continuity tester and I'm not sure whether you can test it while you are holding on to it or if it actually has to be installed while testing it (you'll see why below). 0patience can maybe tell you how you exactly go about testing it. At any rate, if you are looking at the terminal side of the switch (tabs on either side with a hump on the top) there should be 8 terminals that are labeled A thru H starting with the lower right and going clockwise (maybe they aren't labeled on the switch but that's how they are labeled in my service manual. The switch looks like (well, sort of like...):
    | | |

    Is that clear? If need be, I can scan in the picture in the service manual and post it....

    When in Park (P), there should be continuity between B and C. (Because it has to be in gear, I don't know whether you can test it while holding it at the dining room table - maybe it has a mechanical lever on it that you can "shift" to simulate changing gears?).

    When in Reverse (R), there should be continuity between A and E

    When in Neutral (N), same as Park (continuity betwen B and C)

    When in Drive (D), there is no continuity between any of the terminals.

    When in thrid (3), continuity between A and G

    When in First and Second (1/2), continuity between A and H.

    Good luck.
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    One other, off topic question. How did your 97 Cherokee hold up when you rolled it? Did the roof collapse at all? I assume you were wearing your seatbelt, otherwise you wouldn't be here now.

    The reason I ask is that I just read an IIHS report describing auto safety that had a paragraph that noted how the number of rollover deaths in the Cherokee is about the same as with other small and midsize cars. Which is surprising to them because SUVs tend to have much higher rollover death rates. They weren't sure why the Cherokee has such a low rate....
  • graybograybo Member Posts: 8
    hey, Opatience, Graybo, again. My new problem is my wife's 93 Taurus SW. The check engine light came on and I had the computer check it out. It said that no codes were registering. The car has been sputtering when you first crank it and take off. Gas mileage sucks, pretty much. My mechanic checked it out and made these recommendations: 1) could be the fuel pump is bad. (I changed the fuel filter about three week ago) 2) injectors may be clogged. 3) possibly the computer is bad. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
  • debbi10debbi10 Member Posts: 10
    bblaha, Yes I was wearing my seatbelt. As I was rolling it was like the Highland Fling at Six Flags. I could not believe how well the seatbelt kept me in place. It ended up on it's side and I had to walk out the windshield after this guy rolled it back. My roof was barely dented! I couldn't believe it. All I ended up with were bruises and glass all over me. In the pictures you would not think it had rolled because the roof was barely dented but the guy behind me saw it roll and I felt it. I like my 98 better it is the color I wanted.
  • soukupsoukup Member Posts: 4
    Enjoy this whole site!
    My 91 Olds Cutlass Ciera SL, (66,000 miles) which I just bought, is tripping the check engine light. It does so when the car is accelerated, and goes out when car is slowed down. Gas mileage has not changed, performance has not changed. No leaks detected, no odd smell. For what it's worth, it started tripping when I used the car heater during a cool spell here, that however, may be a coincidence.
    Also I am wondering about disconnecting the negative cable on the battery to clean the computer out..i assume just for 10 minutes?
    Thanks to anybody who might have a clue. I like this car and hope it will last a good long time!
  • daddioof4daddioof4 Member Posts: 50
    I am back. I posted #275 regarding the Check engine light on a 96 Voyager 2.4 4 banger. Before I received any responses, (Impatient dad of 4), I replace the spark plugs and wires. Discounted the negative batter terminal. And every thing appeared fine. Then I started getting responses from 2 posting and I found out how to read the codes, but it was too late because I had already disconnected the battery. So a week has gone by with no problems until Yesterday. So I cycle on-off-on-off-on and lo and behold I got the code. I did it 3 times to make sure I had it right.

    So now I need some one to tell me what the code means. The code is 1 2 7 2 5 5. Also, should I bother going to a dealer or am I better off with a private shop?
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    Well, if the codes for your 96 Chrysler/Plymouth are anything like the codes for my 97 Chrysler/Jeep....

    I'm going to assume that you have 12, 72, 55 (if you were counting flashes there should have been a short pause between 1 & 2 and a long pause between 2 & 7, etc.

    12 just means the battery was disconected within the last 50 Key-on cycles. The "check engine light" would not illuminate for this code.

    72 (P0420) Means your catalyst efficiency is below the required level. The "check engine light" WILL illuminate for this code.

    55 tells you that there are no more codes.

    0patience may know whether the codes are the same for your vehicle as they are for mine.
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557

    These are two different references for the codes.
    I did not see a code 72 though.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    You can retrieve the codes yourself,go to this webpage.
    It will take you thru the steps of retrieving the codes and what their definitions are.

    The PO420 is a code 64 for your vehicle,so that isn't going to work.I went thru the codes for your vehicel and it doesn't show a code 72 for your vehicle.Recheck and confirm the codes.
  • aquarjameaquarjame Member Posts: 1
    Just bought my new Isuzu a little over a month ago. While driving, the CHECK ENGINE and REDUCED POWER lights came on. It had a problem accelerating and power is definitely not there.
    Has anyone experienced this problem before or any advise? I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow. Thanks.
  • madatdodgemadatdodge Member Posts: 6
    Hello. New to the site. Thought somebody out there might be able to help me. I've got a 1999 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4x4 that on 2/21/00 blew a head gasket at 35,000 miles. Since that time it's been in the shop ten more times for a total of thirty-five days and counting because the check engine light keeps coming on due to a sever engine misfire. It gets so bad it sounds like a diesel and it's going to blow up.
    The five star dealer here in Charleston has replaced the head gasket, the intake gasket, plugs, plug wires, solenoids, rerouted the plug wires, cleaned the combustion chamber, replaced injectors and now it's in to have the cats replaced because the car had been misfiring so much they said they're clogged up. They've done as much damage as good, since they've scratched the core support, scratched the fan shroud, gotten greasy finger prints all over the engine compartment and greasy footprints on the carpet. I asked them to clean it up and they forgot to do it several times. They can't even get the cowl seal that's fallen off several times to stay on properly!
    I Went to Arbitration on 8/28/00 and it was a fiasco. The guy finished all my sentences and cut me off constantly. He's no ASE certified technician, in fact he's an architect but, he was able to tell me why the check engine light comes on and made it sound like it was no big deal, that all cars do it. The day of the hearing, I had to leave my truck for five days, bring it back in a second time for a few more days and now it's back in for a week. All since the hearing. And to top it all off the arbitrator spent all of one day to decide in Dodge's favor. What a novel idea! Get a "third independent party" paid for by the automobile manufacturers and let them decide your fate. And the arbitrator said it was not a safety issue, a value issue or a use issue.
    Hard to believe that a truck that has left me stranded three times and had to be towed in is not a safety issue, a truck that has been in the shop eleven times for thirty-five days is not a use issue and it's not a value issue either. I guess everyone who has a vehicle in that many times knows it's worth more money on the resale market. I've tried all brands of gas and octane to no avail. Anybody got any idea besides burning it?
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    Some states state specifically that if the vehicle is in the shop for so many days over a certain period of time,it is a lemon.Then get a lwayer.But see what your rights are first.I'm pretty sure Edmond's has lemon laws listed,if not,a search engine like Google,type in lemon laws and search,it should bring up the info you need.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    Click here for a list of them.

    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • madatdodgemadatdodge Member Posts: 6
    Unfortunately here in South Carolina, the lemon law only covers 12 months or 12,000 miles which ever is the shorter of the two. All the repair work has been done here since I moved but, I bought the truck in Georgia, and the law is the same. So lemon laws don't seem to apply to my case. I've contacted a lawyer and maybe we can do something under federal laws. Any other advice from anyone is welcome.
  • cbreseecbresee Member Posts: 2
    I own a 92 Plymouth Grand Voyager with the 3.0 V6. A few weeks back the check engine light came on. Had the codes pulled at a shop and they said I needed to replace the O2 sensor and the Coolant Temperature Sensor. I replaced both sensors myself, but a short time later the check engine light came back on. Took the van back in to have an engine diagnostic done. Tech says he could find nothing wrong and suggested that the ECM might be bad. Having my doubts now I purchased a Haynes manual (I'm not much of a mechanic) and did some reading. By now the vehicle is starting to run poorly (hard start in morning, engine temp running high and going through some coolant, little chugs and other quirks) and after reading through the manual, if I understand it correctly, I could see how a bad ECM could be causing these symptoms. However, I checked the codes myself from the check engine light and found that it was still reading something wrong from the Coolant Temperature Sensor (code #22) and from the O2 sensor (code #52). Any thoughts before I go ahead and replace the EMC?
Sign In or Register to comment.