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Comments
Suggestions on clay use are in topic #371. The greater the slickness of your lubricant, the less the chance of transfer of clay material to your car.
Dropping the bar is only one reason to just break a piece off and leave the remainder safely in storage.
If clay won't remove it and it is not something you can feel then it is probably a stain in the clearcoat. My favorite polish is 3M Imperial Hand Glaze available from your NAPA store or an auto paint store.
One step products are faster than using individual products but the end result is not as nice. You decide what level of finish you want.
Good luck.
Locally, check with an automobile paint store or a NAPA store. I buy mine from Griot's Garage at www.griotsgarage.com.
The Absorber or Hydrawipe
Clay Magic (or other highly recommended clay)
Good paste wax
http://autosupermart.com/bbs/
to be a good source for info but small water spots on the paint clear coat which formed after washing the car using meguiars #62 and since then they dont come off? what takes this off?? i tried a polish and a cleaner, nothing works, do i need to use p21s auto wash? has anyone gotten rid of these things easily. also my new car has some sticky stuff on the paint all over, makes the surface feel rough not smooth , what is this stuff and how do i take it off. ??
another think i saw was zymol wax but it costs $30 to $1200 is this crazy stuff or what? i saw it as http://autosupermart.com
but has anyone "normal" tried this stuff?
thanks again
#311 - where to get it
Try a NAPA store. They will have both the Medallion wax (no it's not mislabeled) and other products. Try www.carcareonline.com. They have the p21S absorber, the Medallion (and other waxes), etc. If your total purchase is greater than $50.00 then shipping is free.
#312 - water spots
3M Imperial Hand Glaze is a great polish but it contains no wax so it gives no protection whatsoever. If the 3M won't get the water spots off then they have stained/etched the surface. You will have to use a stronger (more abrasive) polish or glaze or you will have to live with it.
As for Zymol, I prefer Blitz wax from www.carcareonline.com, www.autosupermart.com, or www.onegrand.com. It is easier to apply, gives a good shine, and lasts a long time.
Good luck.
I would clay a new car. During transit from the factory, a new car can pick up a lot of surface contamination that is best removed by clay.
Good luck.
With all of the questions about waxes and polymer sealers I thought now would be a good time to ask:
How do you judge a wax?
I use the following criteria, going from most important to least important:
1. GLOSS APPEAL
How does the car look when you are finished. At most concours events they grade the CLARITY, COLOR, and DEPTH. CLARITY is the clearness of the finish. Is it oxidized, cloudy, and hazy, or is it crystal clear? COLOR refers to the richness of the color. Is it deep, full, and lush or is it faded and weak? DEPTH refers to the 3D effect. Is it like looking into the bottom of a deep pool or is it shallow?
2. DURABILITY
The car can look great but if you have to redo it every week then what's the point? There are two kinds of durability. How long does the car look great and how long will the car bead water? It may look good for a week but bead for 6 months.
3. EASE OF USE
Is it easy to put on and take off? Do you have to use a lot of effort to remove it and buff it?
4. MISC
This is the catchall category for the odds and ends. Does the product attract dust making it difficult to keep clean. Does it discolor the trim, chrome, etc? Depending on the item, this can become the #1 consideration.
5. COST
Most people consider this first and that's a mistake. I can buy a wax for $2.00 but if I have to use it every other week to keep the shine and it takes a long time to apply and is hard to wipe off then what have I really saved? Always count your labor into the cost. Something that lasts and is easy to use will be less costly in the long run.
Those are my criteria every time I use a new wax. You should always use something similar. The wax may cost $20.00 but if it lasts for six months, looks great, and is easy to use then you have saved money.
Good luck.
You can get Blitz at www.carcareonline.com, www.autosupermart.com, or www.onegrand.com.
I just got meguirs wax liquid and the mist and wipe spray for after it rains. Are these 2 good products for my 99 Galant es or should I try something else. I want a ggreat shine for as long as mpossible.
comments---
They also sell many of the products mentioned in these threads (not just one brand). I had several questions and recieved very prompt replies, so I'm impressed. Anyhow, thanks for all of the input and interesting reading
Gus
Conference Host
-#323 new car care info
I clicked on autofanatics above. Their tip of the week was to use a car duster which they were selling. For information, check out Larry Reynold's site at www.carcareonline.com. He has lots of how to articles. He also sells many more products. Shipping is free for orders over $50.00.
I also like www.autosupermart.com but Larry is often cheaper on the same item. You may also wish to check www.autopia-carcare.com.
As for waxes, the only contributor I know who uses Collinite is Shoman. I have read about it but not used it since it says you must let it haze but not dry. I don't like timing a wax. This is why I don't like p21S wax or Zymol(the good stuff - not the blue liquid). Of the waxes I have tried, I prefer Blitz wax.
Good luck.
If I had a small sports car, may have gone another route. Want the best protection/appearance, so going to give this a shot and see how long it lasts. If I can go 4 months with good beading/looks, I will be content.
#325 thanks for additional references. Bookmarked them
Gus
Conference Host
Also, I used their professional series clay and found that some of it rubbed off onto the clearcoat of the car. Why does this happen? Was I doing something wrong?
Usually if wax is hard to take off, it hasn't dried properly and/or was put on too thick. Temperature and humudity affect drying time, so that may contribute to the problem. You are only leaving a micro-thin layer of wax on the finish when you are done, so the old "more is better" rule does not apply. More thin coats is where you get the addiitional protection.
The clay probably needed more lubricant applied to keep it from rubbing off on the finish. I have encountered the same problem at times.
Terry
Also, not exactly wax related, but getting confilicting guidance on leather maintenance, some say use conditioner, some stuff (like my couch) says use NOTHING but soap/water... Not sure what answer is for leather seats in new truck. What gives?
Thanks
I have no personal knowledge of this particular product but as a general rule dealer applied sealants are vastly overpriced (usually several hundred dollars) and don't last as long as other products mentioned in these forums. Teflon in a polish does not bond to the surface so it does not have any positive effect on your finish. It is marketing hype.
As for the leather, most here like Lexol or Zaino. You can also check out Leather Therapy at www.leathertherapy.com. Most people use a leather product because of the temperature extremes the seats are subjected to (greater than 120 degrees in a closed car in the summer) that your sofa does not face.
Good luck.
Dumb question, is Zymol and Zaino one in the same?
I don't want to use anything thats going to take a lot of time and work. I have alway liked Nu Finish but will try that Zymol just to see how it works out.
#333 - which wax to choose
Zaino and Zymol are different products.
The blue liquid Zymol you purchased is made by Turtle Wax. The true Zymol is a paste that you take a piece of, soften in your hand, apply, then immediately buff off (yeah - it is a lot of work).
If choosing between the Eagle One Wet (a polymer product) and the Turtle Wax version of Zymol, I would choose the Eagle One (your son was right on this one).
Good luck.
Thanks
I have heard that you can remove white stains from trim by heating regular peanut butter in a microwave to make it liquid, then using a toothbrush to work the peanut butter into the trim to dissolve and remove the residue. Then use carwash to wash off the peanut butter. Sounds like a joke, but I have read this in several car care manuals.
I am just careful when I wax.
Remember that trim is plastic and that plastic is derived from oil. Solvents that carry wax will also affect plastic trim. There are many different approaches to solve the problem.
Refer to topic #371 posts #54, #56, #60 for more information.
Good luck.
I was planning on getting one to save time and fatigue.
PLUS: no hydrocarbon solvents
smells good
great, lasting shine
no visible residue on trim
MINUS: expensive
not a good cleaner
- power tools
There is nothing wrong with using power tools - the question is: do you need them?
There are 2 types of polishers/buffers - the rotary and the random orbital.
The rotary buffer is the type many pros use. It is not unlike a drill in that the pads spin in a circle. This creates great torque and heat which allows for the correction of paint defects. If you don't know how to handle it you can take your paint off before you can turn the machine off.
The random orbital buffer moves in two directions at once. It generates much less torque and heat so the risk of damage is reduced. It can still remove paint at the edges where it is the thinnest like trunk lids, etc.
Equally important is the pad you use. For orange peel you might use a wool pad which could be too abrasive for just polishing. Probably the safest pad is the foam polishing pad. It can be used for polishing, waxing, and buffing.
Once your car is polished you may not need a buffer again because there are many products that don't benefit from its use. For example, after the finish is shining the way you want you will seal it with either carnauba wax or polymers. If you use Blitz wax you don't need a buffer. The same is true with polymers like Finish First or Zaino where hand application and removal is actually faster. Once done, simply maintain it.
You can use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze among others to polish your finish. Please check earlier posts.
-Liquid Zymol
Liquid Zymol is made by Turtle Wax and is not the same Zymol sold in jars. It is priced to sell in places like K-Mart because they know people at Wal-Mart and K-Mart won't spring $40.00 for their other waxes. The Liquid Zymol is average compared to what's out there both in shine and in durability. Again, I prefer to use separate cleaners and waxes because you don't need to clean your finish every time you wax it.
Good luck.
butter to remove white wax residue on body side
moldings/window moldings? I tried this yesterday on
a 2000 Xterra and it worked great. I then tried it
on my wifes 93 Sentra and it took years of residue
off without a problem.
Method:I put a little peanut butter on a
toothbrush and sprayed the area with water and just
rubbed the peanut butter in then rinsed? What a
difference on the sentra?
I now use a crumpled up b&w newspaper and have been able to get a nearly streak-free surface. Paper towels are more streaky and leave more lint then newsprint too.
Actually vinegar in plain tap water works well. I use the plain water and rub a bit harder for hidden scum, but when I need the big guns at low cost...vinegar and water is about as good as it gets.
Clean your plastic?..., then feed your dog I always say!!
So, I tried to use Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Prep & Swirl Reducer but it did absolutely nothing! My guess is that because the car has been just waxed at the dealership. Is is possible?
(1) What should I use to remove wax before cleaning?
(2) What king of cleaner or so better use to remove these fine marks? I read a good responses about Zymol's HD-Cleanse. Can I use it for that following by applying Meguiar's Gold Class car wax (I used to use it with my other car)? Or what kind of Meguiar's (or other) products can I use for that?
Thanks a lot.
Plastic and rubber and other than normal paint on metal finishes wear out/fade app 3x as fast as say the metal body finish.
So an ideal schdule would be if you wax etc each 6 mo, doing the other stuff on 2 mo cycle will even out the wear patterns.