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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • danielj6danielj6 Posts: 285
    Was the car in an accident/collision before your daughter bought it?
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Posts: 326
    I don't know if the car was in an accident. She got it out of the shop today and says that it now drives fine. Hopefully there will be no further problems.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    I would like to know the correct name for the subframe bushings on my 97 Taurus. I think I need to get the replacement kit to correct the awful popping noises when stopping/turning. I can actually feel the vibration in the floorboard. I am stumped as to what part to look search for on the Napa and PartsAmerica sites, I've tried all the obvious search terms.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    I did my brakes today. It was a complete job, rotors and pads. My taurus has 38k miles and it is 2000 SES. Rotors were very rusty, I can't believe for this many miles, rotors can be this much beaten up. Any ways... I used Raybestos rotors ($50 ones) and Quite Stop pads ($65). installation was relatively painless. I discovered that Ford used red loctite on anchor bolts. Driver site bolts gave me hell of hard time. When I reinstalled them I used blue loctite. Lubricated slider pins and rubber boots with silicone grease. I took a test drive around the block, everything seemed like OK. I didn't hear any noise, braking power was there, pedal was way up compare with pre installation. So far so good. I like to thank Alcan, I used his advises. I'll take somewhere else to flush the brake system (not bleeding), it looked like kinda dark.

    While I was in grease, I pulled out MAF sensor to clean up. It was spotless but I sprayed it whith electronic part cleaner spray anyway. My car is pinging especially summer time. I realized that if AC is on, engine doesn't ping though. Since MAF was clean, my next step will be fuel injector cleaning (professionally).
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Sounds like you did things right. One tip, treat the brakes gently for the first 250 miles or so to allow the pads to seat on the rotors. Less chance of future brake squeal, pull, etc.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Thanks again for all the suggestions. Unlike what I heard and experienced, my rotors and pads didn't create burning smell when I was doing test drive. On my previous cars, when shops replaced these parts, for the first 100 miles or so, I got burning smell. I guess, the nature of QS pads is that they don't create that smell...?

    Alcan, do you think I am on the correct track for pinging issue, like getting FI cleaned?
  • newtofordnewtoford Posts: 1
    I bought a 98 Taurus 4 months ago. It now has 59,000 miles. I live in Wisconsin, and the problem I am having is when I start out on the
    first trip of the day, the transmission winds out to about 20 mph before it shifts into 2nd gear. Sometimes it won't even catch and acts as if it is in neutral. The weird thing is that if you stop the car and start out again, it shifts at the normal speed (10-15mph)and works fine everytime after that. The colder the weather, the longer it takes to shift into 2nd gear, but it will do this even at summer temperatures. I have had the transmission flushed and new fluid put in, also a can of transX has been added. Has anyone experienced this problem, and if so, what do I need to do to fix this problem?
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Well, you've already eliminated the easy solution with the fliud replacement. Since this problem only occurs on cold startup, it sounds like a mechanical problem developing in the transmission. Possibly a solenoid beginning to fail (I'm assuming the 1-2 shift is solenoid controlled), which would be a fairly simple and relatively cheap fix. It could also be a mechanical problem in the transmission's hydraulics. If it continues to get worse, you'll definitely need to give it some attention. I wouldn't accept a quick "yeah you'll have to rebuild the transmission" from anyone, though.
  • My car (Taurus 1997 GL) is having SES light on. The codes are P0340 (Cam sensor malfunction) and P0430 (Catalyst low efficiency). Did anybody here have the same problem? What is the reason for that problem? I wonder how much the dealer will charge for fix such problems.
  • My 2000 SES has the same problems as mentioned. There is an inch travel before anything happens. Try reversing sharply, but only for a few feet with the parking brake on. this is an old trick which helps the self-adjusters go up a notch or two if they need to. I had the brake fluid changed, made little or no difference.
    It is an absolute discrace Ford do not fit discs all around in this day and age. To fit them on the wagon and not the sedan is madness. Remember to use the stick shift to help braking where you need to, such as coming to a bend where the last thing you need is to apply the brakes. Compression braking is stil a good idea. This is why rotors wear out so fast as there is so much pressure on an inadequate system.Just bring the shift stick down to the middle "D" or even "1". It is the correct way to drive an auto anyway as you retain greater control over the car's traction when the situation demands.
    I Still love the car though. Great value, space, pace (Duratec) and comfort and 27 mpg on a run and 24 around town. not bad for a car weighing in at 3300 lbs. The only other thing I feel is poor is the headlamps on main-beam/high-beam. The spread of light is dire, does anyone else notice this?
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    I am very surprised that you got 27/24 from Duratec engine. Using small gears should increase your milage, creates more heat in transmission...

    I would do it only if the road was covered by snow and/or ice.

    Constantly downshifting and upshifthing on auto tranny is not smart thing for any car at all unless the car is auoto stick.
  • Hi Snowman,

    I appreciate your comments, but you will always get better mileage if you are in the correct gear at the right time. Most people drive autos in the "overdrive" setting around town which means you are inadvertently "feathering" the gas pedal and wasting fuel and braking in an overdrive gear puts a lot of pressure on the brakes, brake fluid and rotors. With the Duratec being a 4 valver, there is little low rev torque as I'm sure you know, so being in the lower ratio is more economical. Also, if approaching an incline, drop the selector from overdrive "D" to the lower "D" without moving your right foot and the car maintains it speed.
    Also regarding your last point, when you think it about it, by leaving the car in the middle "D" avoids changing up and down doesn't it. Which proves my point!! I take your point about heating the transmission, but with today's oil, it is nothing like as bad as it once was and you save a lot more on your brakes and rotors. It is also safer to use compression braking which is witnessed by the idiots I see that constantly brake on sharp bends.

    My gas mileage figure is not unusual if you read these pages regularly. Driving technique helps and of course, where you live. Kansas City (my home) is pretty open without much traffic, so stop and start is not common here. But you really should get around 27 mpg on a run with this engine.
    My main gripes with the Taurus are the brake effort needed, the noise around the doors (wind) which they have apparantly improved for the 03 model, and the poor headlamps/headlights on high or main beam. otherwise it is plusses all the way.


  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks for that update. You are probably right about cheaper in Detroit. Employees usually get a deep discount and that may be entering into the trade as well as vehicles from cold country don't seem to hold up as well. Extremes of sub-zero to over 100 are much more than we endure in the south. I hardly ever see below freezing and still max out at about 100. Also all that salt.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    It has been my experience that for that new car ride, it is best to stick with the OEM. Even if you find who made the struts for Ford, you will probably not be able to get the same ones because Ford probably patented their spec.
    It is odd they wore out so quick. Have you changed tires? Did Ford put less than optimum tires on your vehicle because of a tire shortage? Have you maitained proper inflation? If you've blown a strut you should have seen obvious signs of leaking before it pumped dry. Do you live in chuck hole city?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    If you have rear drums, you might have the work double checked. I had a similar experience with a different vehicle, Topaz I think, where they didn't get the hardware installed correctly and the self adjuster wouldn't work correctly. It was also notable by the parking brake as it had to move farther to lock the rear wheels. If the self adjuster are working, you should be able to force them to tighten by slowly moving back and forth and applying the foot brake.
    If they turned your drums and rotors, the drums will require a larger arc on the shoe and will wear rapidly until they are fully seated. They will also wear out quicker. Some shops will arc the shoe to the inside of the newly turned drum. I've also seen where the arc on new shoes wouldn't match new drums. (Both were aftermarket products) Unless that condition existed the last time you had new brakes or in the distant past, I would suspect a bad brake job. The only other thing would be if they replaced the master cylinder or the power unit. They didn't install or adjust it correctly if that is the case.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Not likely, but anything is possible. It is highly unlikely with that milage that something was kicked up from the road and puntured two boots so the grease would come out. Maybe they were inferior from the start, but is the milage true? Can you tell if any work had been done in that area before? Sometimes a mechanic will get careless and with a tool accidently pinch or punture the boot. And it is possible to get the unscrupulous one as well that pokes a tiny hole so the grease eventually spins out. I bought a 95 only to discover both out-board boots were busted. I discovered it soon enough so that I only had to clean the joint and install new boot kits. At 180K, one of the inboard went, but I couldn't find the kit, so I took it to a local rebuilder. Also since the grease appeared to be dried out, I took the other shaft as well. He did both inboard joints for $50 and it was still good at 230K when the car got totaled.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    you need further analysis, unless you are using the shotgun approach. (change everything, until you fix it). You could jack the car, both sides so the pressure via the stabilizer bar is even and try wiggling joints via the wheel or with a prybar. Some things won't show up without weight on wheels. Your sound discription could use more explanation. One poke at the problem as desribed is it is similar to sounds evoked by bad bearing on the upper strut mount.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Trans-x? Well it is your transmission, but I'd do everything possible to fully flush it from the tranny. If I remember that product, it mostly contains solvents that would help orings swell, but it can also eat away the o-ring in the process. I would only use that in desperation of avoiding a rebuild. Your problem sounds like there are a lot of other possiblilities. First, that trans is controlled by the computer. Have someone that knows what they are doing give it a thorough diagnosis. Delayed shift when cold could be a temp sensor as it makes sense for the shifts to be delayed until the engine warms. Second, it may be a temp sensor on the tranny, or one of the other sensors feeding info back to the computer. As a precaution, find out what fluid the shop put in the tranny. Several years back, everything got Dexron. Not good for a Ford. Actually the government used Type F in everything as Dexron didn't meet MilSpec. If you feel you want an additive, use Lube-Guard unless otherwise indicated. It is recommended by the American Transmission Rebuilders Association Group for AXOD's. They do engineering to improve the reliability. It might include a minor part change or opening an orifice slightly to improve flow. They provide the "Bible" for rebuilders.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    First, I don't know the rear design for that particular year, but Ford had one design if the parking brake was applied and the self-adjuster wasn't close to where it needed to be, the self-adjuster would become dislocated only further complicating things. Also some designs, the parking brake itself would encourage self adjustment. Do with caution, whatever approach you use.
    Further, engine braking or compression if you choose to call it that is only a good idea under certain circumstances. Depending upon the specific model, the over-run clutches might only be disengaged in gear 2 or 1. This puts a strain on the engine and tranny and is only recommended for additional braking on steep declines or with heavy loads. The over-run clutches allow the engine to return to idle and coasting takes place to improve gas milage!!! Braking should never be applied during a turn. If you must, that means you've overestimated the road, and you need to adjust your driving habits.
    You are also inhibiting control of the vehicle. If you slide a tire, you may prevent the ABS from regaining control since it expects the tranny to be free wheeling. Even with out ABS, taking your foot off the brake, you may not be able to regain control. And under slippery conditions it alone may cause you to loose control and not be able to regain it.
    Most of the heat is generated by the torque converter because it is constantly slipping except during lock-up. Even with that, most are designed so the moment you start decel the valve controlling that opens. Too, with the torque converter only locking above say 50MPH and not locking in gear 1 or 2, you are again generating excess heat. Which is cheaper? A tranny rebuild or brakes?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    "Most people drive autos in the "overdrive" setting around town which means you are inadvertently "feathering" the gas pedal and wasting fuel and braking in an overdrive gear puts a lot of pressure on the brakes, brake fluid and rotors"

    WHAT?? Are you driving with your foot on the brake? Anytime the accelerator would be less than maintaining speed, in the upper gears it will free wheel.
    With today's electronic trannys, they are able to sense the pressure created by the torque load and determine the optimum shift points, both for engine stress and maximum MPG.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Fluid up to level, slightly discolored, no bad smell. Vehicle recently acquired. Plan of attack, dump pan and filter, flush as much as possible through cooler line. Maybe someone did a change and put the wrong fluid in it. I have a bad feeling about this one, like maybe cracked orings or some sort of internal pressure loss.
    But obtaining the filter, brought questions to the surface, such as could someone have replaced a AX4?? with an AXOD-E? I'm told they are very similar and might bolt up. How can I tell other than have the VIN number checked?
    Open for suggestions.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Thanks, but I wasn't asking for analysis. I was asking about nomenclature of the part. I can't find the replacement bushing or kit listed anywhere on Napa or Parts America. Any information on price and location of these kits would be appreciated. I'll repost:
    I would like to know the correct name for the subframe bushings on my 97 Taurus. I think I need to get the replacement kit to correct the awful popping noises when stopping/turning. I can actually feel the vibration in the floorboard. I am stumped as to what part to look search for on the Napa and PartsAmerica sites, Ive tried all the obvious search terms.
  • Hi Snowman,

    Thanks for your amusing comments, you seem to have a good sense of humor which is great!!

    Read your hand book and it will tell you to only use the overdrive setting when you are on the open road. Use the correct gear and your MPG will always improve. The ratios in the overdrive selctor are too high for around town. My credentials? trained by the British police class one drivers, who with all due respect, have the highest trained driving standards in the western world. They drive autos all the time. I bet you leave your car in "park" too without applying the parking brake?
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    What amusing comments you are talking about?
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Possibly you are mixing me with e_net_rider.

    You might want to read it carefully next time before you post something to particular participant.
  • thedeethedee Posts: 2
    Thank you for responding to my problem with my brakes. However when you write that I should drive in reverse and apply the brake should I:
    1-apply only the parking brake?
    2-leave the parking brakes on as i drive in reverse?
    3-apply only the regular brakes.
    Please explain and I sincerely appreciate your response. Additionally I just got new rotors on the front wheels but the braking problem still exists.
  • spep321spep321 Posts: 1
    Please help me. I have a 2000 Ford Taurus and the turn signals stopped working as did the radio and fan. I don't have a manual. Can anyone tell me if this sounds like a fuse and where the box is located. Thanks a bunch
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Well you never said they were definitely bad. So here goes. Try the dealer. And if they don't give a discount, give Howard Parts Distribution a try. Can't think of their prior name now, but they were the official rebuilder for Ford's trannys and engines. 1-800-800-7845 They've expanded into all makes.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Can you help me out with what might have happened to my post about the dangers of engine braking on slippery road and it's ill effects on anti-lock brakes? Can we E privately?
  • I too have a 2000 Taurus and the fuse box is located right above where your left foot is when sitting in the driver's seat - it's in a very awkward place. If you don't have a manual you're going to have to pull a lot of fuses to find the bad one. I use a needle nose pliers to pull them out but I recall there's a special "tool" Ford throws in the car to yank them as well. Doesn't sound like a fuse problem to me, seems odd that many things would be tied to one fuse. However that's where I'd start as well. Good luck!
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