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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,147
    I've had my 2000 Jetta VR6 for 6 months now, and the other day I could not turn it OFF. I mean, I could turn the engine off, but not the power. I took the key out, and the radio stayed on. When i flipped the radio power off, I just got a hissing noise from the speakers. Also, the doors would not lock with the remote key, as if the car still believed the key was in the ignition. I haven't been able to repeat the problem (thank goodness). Anyone ever hear of such a thing?

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  • blackjetta18t1blackjetta18t1 Member Posts: 278
    I just use the term "weather stripping" to reference the rubber stripping on the car where the door frame hits it. The dealership here used of all things a BMW product called Gummi Phlege that you can pick up for about 7 bucks at the BMW dealership. Simply lube up the rubber with the Gummi and you should be set. You'll have to reapply it about once every 2-3 months or so. It should quiet it. Hope this helps..
  • dndkkdndkk Member Posts: 7
    I just read my manual and it states that after 40k (64 KMs) a replacement belt is recommended every 20k (32Kms) thereafter. This can't be right.. Anyone with experience with this? The cost of this exchange must be expensive as well..
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    TDI for 2002 requires timing belt replacement every 80,000 miles on automatic and manual transmission TDI. http://www.vwparts.com/partlist.cfm?listtype=specials&getpart=162321#part162321 parts are $135 or less.

    1999 to 2001 TDI require replacement of timing belt every 40K miles for automatic and every 60K for manual. Installing the new 2002 style belt and tensioner allow the 1999-2001 TDI to go 80K miles between timing belt changes.


    dndkk- you are reading the manual wrong, the manual is showing replacement at 40K for auto, 60 K for manual, 80K for auto, and 120K for manual.


    Check out www.tdiclub.com for extensive discussion of TDI.

  • dndkkdndkk Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info. I'll make sure to have the new belt installed once I hit 64k..
  • bbaubbau Member Posts: 1
    I currently own a 1998 Jetta GLX 5-speed that has been having problems with the shifter going out of alignment. For example, when shifting from 4th to 5th, 5th gear is not there...only 3rd. The shifter seems to be off to the right (hopefully that makes sense). This has been a problem off and on for about a year. Though Volkswagen of America has agreed to pay for the repairs (car is out of warranty), it seems that the dealer is not getting the problem solved.

    Has anyone had or heard of this problem before? Any suggestions for what to do? I am about at the point of selling the car and never recommending anyone buying a VW. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • divewreckdivewreck Member Posts: 50
    The radio will stay on for about 1 hour(also the windows operate for about 10 minutes) without main power.
  • divewreckdivewreck Member Posts: 50
    Can anyone explain why the camber on the wheels cannot be adjusted, only toe in/out. One of my wheels was off the mark by 1 degree & the shop could not find the adjustment (2000 GLS). I will be calling my VW service dept on monday
  • mjgvwmjgvw Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone had issues with their turbo? Mine was replaced. Curious if this may be related to the mineral vs. synthetic oil technical bulletin of 1999. I had a dealer tell me it was mandatory... VOA confirmed it wasn't, but I can't help but wonder if the first 30K miles with mineral based damaged it.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I always thought the TDI (and all diesel engines) required synthetic oil. Not sure. I know you can find out alot about TDIs from this page: http://www.tdiclub.com.


    Was the replacement of the turbo covered under warranty at least? Just curious.

  • mjgvwmjgvw Member Posts: 3
    My 1997 didn't come with it and I was informed at a dealer performed oil change about the tech bulletin which came out in Jan 1999. They told me it was mandatory... VOA confirmed it wasn't. I wanted to know why they went to it. Never got a concrete answer other than the general wear and tear stuff. I did convert. I asked if it would void my warranty of I didn't they said no. But, I drove for 30K on fossil and now I need a new turbo... Stuck wastegate.

    I've been on the phone with VOA regularly trying to get the failure mechanism out of them... no luck. She seemed surprised that it wasn't offered as a warranty item. They will call in 24 - 48 hours to let me know if I get more than a turbo for Christmas...

    Of course the first dealer told me it wasn't my turbo, but my glow plugs that were causing the power loss at 65mph ;^) I didn't go back there...

    I poked around TDIclub.com. Interesting site, I couldn't find anything specific. I did post there though too.

    How long should a turbo in a well maintained car be expected to last?
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Hi all,

    I usually hang out over in the MPV and Volvo threads, but after some car shifting (you know, family in town for the Holidays and all that), I've ended up w/ my m.i.l's '98 Jetta 2.0L for the next two weeks. "Figure out what's wrong with the car" I'm told as my wife takes the keys to my beloved 850 T-5. So, after a few days of driving the Jetta, here is what I've noticed, if anyone can isolate these issues:

    1. The exhaust rattles underneath...only when cold. Now, it's minus 10F right outside, so I think it's just the cold and the pipes are barely touching something, but the mil has complained about this...

    2. The slushbox is highly reluctant to shifting. It'll hang onto 2nd or 3rd for a long time, up to about 4500rpm with light pedal pressure, and won't actually stay in 4th until you've gotten over 65mph. I think somethings actually wrong w/it. I may be being slightly critical since my T-5 Volvo shifts so smoothly, but this Jetta does seem to shift oddly.

    If anyone can help me, that'd be great! Aside from these two issues, I like the car, which reminds me of my old MkI GTI, very tossable and fun to drive.

    thx!

    /javadoc
  • jessica1107jessica1107 Member Posts: 1
    Aside from having to replace two of my power window motors,I now have this problem of having the ignition key lock-up and keep from turning on.
    I got stuck at work struggling with being unable to turn the car on. It turn just enough to get power on, as if the steering column is keeping it from turning the car over. I now have it sitting in my driveway unable to drive it due to this latest problem.
  • lspangler1lspangler1 Member Posts: 68
    My wife's '00 Jetta has 18,000 miles and not one issue. The squeaking doors was fixed by tightening the door latches and lubing the seals. It's a 1.8T manual. So far she loves it.
  • vwnorthvwnorth Member Posts: 2
    Ispangler1.......what did you use to lube the door seals and roof moulding?
  • drumgirl1drumgirl1 Member Posts: 5
    Hi everyone,
    I need some advise. I am a student on a very tight budjet and i am looking for my first reasonable car. Basically I need realiability (especially for our Canadian winters), don't want to invest tons in repairs and just a car that will get me to school,work, home. I expect to do about 20 000km/yr and I always keep up on oil changes and general maintenance etc.

    Passing by my local garage, I noticed someone was selling a 4 door, 5-Speed 91 Jetta. It has 215 000 kms, some rust, visible repairs on the moldings but otherwise it seems in good shape. Took it for a spin and it seemed ok although i'm not used to driving manual. The thing that concerned me is that there was a light on the dashboard and buzzing of some sort, like a warning light. The guy said it was something he had to adjust. Any ideas what it could be? He's asking for $2000 CDN.
    I am wondering what you all think of this. Do Jettas have an overall good rating? In terms of quality, do you think this car would last very much longer...will it see 300 000? Is there anyone out there with this same car that can give me some advise? Or anyone that has had experience with Jettas, were you pleased or deceived with Jetta?

    Thank you so much for your help and advise. I appreciate all your time and patience. My first car is a big step and I dont want to make a mistake.
    Have a great day!! :)
  • blackjetta18t1blackjetta18t1 Member Posts: 278
    if your problem is a creakin sound, use Gummi Pflege, it is a rubber lubricant made by BMW. You can pick it up from a BMW dealership for about 7.50 US dollars.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I found the front passenger door rattle. It was CD jewel cases in the glovebox. :) In the back, I found it too. The package shelf is loose on the right side where you fold down the seatback. I took the car to service 2 times, and those dummies couldn't find it. Idiots. There is a new rattle in the driver's side where the dash and roof pillar meet. This car only has 4850 miles and it's a 2002!

    I hope not to be sorry I bought this car, but it's starting to look that way. I love everything about it, but I should not be turning up the radio to drown out rattles in a car that's not even 2 months old yet! Makes no sense.
  • blackjetta18t1blackjetta18t1 Member Posts: 278
    my cousins 02 silver Jetta GLS 1.8T tip tronic with sport lux, had rattles the first day, with the music at a min.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    you need to have this car checked over by an independent garage. Warning lights are "warnings" and we want to make sure he hasn't just pulled the bulb out, now don't we?

    215Km is 133,000 USA miles and that's pretty far along for a '91 Jetta. But the asking price seems pretty cheap so maybe it's okay for now. But you need to have it checked to see if it would require any repairs right now right here. You don't want to spend that chunk of money and then have to spend more next week. Of course as time goes on you will put money into it.

    So have a mechanic look at it and give you a list. It will be money well spent.

    best of luck,,

    Host
  • drumgirl1drumgirl1 Member Posts: 5
    I did decide not to go for it cause of the mileage and long term maintenace. I got alot of opinions from various people who said for long term, japanese would probably be a better bet.
    tahnks for the feedback!
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    sorry about your rattles. didn't I tell you about CD cases?? ;) Mine is still doing fine. Knock on wood. The one thing that I miss about my old Jetta is the way the heated seats work. Now, mine only seem to work on the 4 and 5 settings. I know someone else mentioned it - and I think that made me start really testing them. Not even sure I want to bother with service though...too much hassle. I will call them and see how intrusive heated seats replacements are...
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    My heated seats work fine. I have two more rattles now though. And this damn car just turned 5000 miles yesterday! I am starting to regret my purchase already...

    The dash rattles over bumps, right near where it meets the windshield. The rear package shelf is loose, and rattling like crazy (the dealer couldn't find it, but I did), and the driver's footrest creaked loudly this morning when I put my foot on it. I am starting to get over this quickly. It just makes me mad in a brand new, $25K car.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    your footrest creaked when you put your foot on it? is that really a complaint? if i have said it once, i have said it a thousand times: cars squeek and make noise - especially when the panels are cold and rigid in this weather.

    enjoy the car. if you can't - then get rid of it! :) very simple.

    i don't envy you at all. the car must be pretty bad for you to let these things consume you. i definitely would just trade it in for another Protege or Civic or something.

    so you found the rattle in the back. and the service department did not. sounds like a better service department would be a good idea.

    good luck with it Paul. remember, it is just a car. i know that you have more important things going on in your life than to let a VW stress you out.

    when do i get the recipe for the crab dip, btw? ;)
  • blackjetta18t1blackjetta18t1 Member Posts: 278
    i am positive my seats don't work unless on 5, I even told the service department, to which they said, everything is operating per manufacturers specs.....rattles, buzzes, creaks, galore
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Is it possible that it's not cold enough for the seat heaters to be on? The only reason I say that is because on some cars (not sure about VWs) the seat heaters don't turn on unless ambient temp is below a certain temp. My Volvo does that, and the heaters don't work until it's below 40F. It's annoying but that's a way I suppose that the manufacturer ensures longer life from the system.

    Just a thought.

    /java (75k creak-free miles) doc
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    My 99.5 GLS had the same interior/seats/heaters, and they worked on 1 a little, 2 more, 3 even more, 4 a lot, and 5 enough to fry an egg. Mine seem to do a little on 4, and egg frying on 5. I think there must be an issue. What year is your Jetta? Mine is a 2002.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I have the same exact car as you have (except for the sport suspension and 17-inch wheels), right down to the Tiptronic and leather. My seat heaters work on all numbers. They work like you described for your 1999 1/2. Five will fry an egg. :) But I can feel them on all numbers once the seat warms up. And I have had the seat heaters on when the car's leather was cold and it wasn't below 40 outside. They worked then too.

    Also, it just makes me mad that a brand new car would have rattles and all. Maybe it's because the interior is so devoid from other noise that I notice the rattles more. :) I am not stressing over it, I am going to the dealer one more time before I totally lose it. Just kidding. :)
  • gibegibe Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had any problems with a minor bump in the road causing major havoc to the underside of their VW Jetta, or any VW for that matter, because of the use of Aluminum vs. Steel?
  • blackjetta18t1blackjetta18t1 Member Posts: 278
    my seats always work, regardless of temperature because I used them even during the summer(cool summer nights), but they only work on 5 and they sure do cook whatevers on it. On another note, I'm getting my 10k service tomrrow, and at my 5k service I had them use Mobil 1 synthetic oil that I gave them, but now I couldn't find Mobil 1, so I bought Castrol synthetic, is it ok to switch brands? Is castrol good?

    By the way, the car is a 2001 Jetta GLS 2.0, automatic trnas, black on black leather, 15" alloys
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    taking my car in next week. my service guy said there is a problem with the switch, or a relay. either way, i get another turbo as my loaner, and it will only take one day probably. whew. i was worried that i was just crazy...;)
  • mjgvwmjgvw Member Posts: 3
    Here is the rest of the story for those who may be interested... Even though the dealer charged me for the turbo, VoA asked them to refund my money stating it is covered under power train.

    Synthetic oil is not mandatory on my 1997 and will not void your warranty. I have that in writing from VoA.

    Still curious how long a well maintained turbo should last... will I have this problem again?
  • jabildajabilda Member Posts: 47
    I had a Plynouth Laser with the Mitsu turbo that lasted until I sold the car (130+ K Miles). The manual said to let the car idle a minute after stopping. While it was a drag, I did it and never had a problem. Check the manual for similar instructions. Letting the car idle (for my turbo, anyway) let oil get into it to help cool it down. I heard that the turbos on the mitsus did not last >4 years and suspect owners did not follow the 'rules.' Good luck.
  • mynewvwmynewvw Member Posts: 18
    I have a 2002 Jetta Wagon V6 with 2,000 miles on it. After it warms up, I can hear a knocking/sucking (more of a knock though) coming from the engine compartment. The knocking doesn't seem to speed up when rpms increase. When I press the gas down, the knock goes away for about 10 seconds. I have worked a lot on cars, and the knocking doesn't sound like it's coming from the engine though it is very hard to locate where it is coming from. One other thing - when I have the gas cap off, I can hear it quite loudly coming from the gas pipe/cap entry. It strikes me as something vacuum related but I should would like to know what it is. Any ideas are appreciated.
    Thanks
  • blackjetta18t1blackjetta18t1 Member Posts: 278
    i had the problem, where you could hear it at lower speeds cause then the wind and engine noise go above it. the problem was the front rubber joint of the stabilizer bar, supposedly nothing dangerous, they took care of it for me, it came back the very next day, i take it back after a bit and it was not taken care of(they could not hear it....blah blah) then from that point on it only got worse having an accompanying creaking sound when moving the steering wheel, but every time I would take it to the dealer , even I no longer heard the sound(some luck...) and now that it's cold, it's pretty much gone for now, all in all a very very annoying and bad experince regarding this issue. 2001 Jetta GLS 9950 miles.
  • mynewvwmynewvw Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for the reply, blackjetta18t1. It sounds like the problem you have is not what I'm experiencing though. First, I hear the knocking only when in park (or going very slowly). Second, I hear it loudest from the gas pipe entry (again, while the car is in park). Third, one time, while idling, I heard the knocking speed up and then go away while the car was in park and my foot was off of the gas - this gave me the idea that is was vacuum related since it speed up gradually, quicker and quicker and then stopped altogther (as is it was finished doing whatever it was it was doing)....
  • lspangler1lspangler1 Member Posts: 68
    The dealer did the lubing, I am unsure what they used but the car is still noise free.
  • yettibuttyettibutt Member Posts: 98
  • yettibuttyettibutt Member Posts: 98
    I read this way back in this discussion, just take a piece of duct tape, cut it fairly thin, and wrap tightly around the latch on the inside of the door frame. This absolutely fixed teh problem, the problem is that the door is not seating tightly.
  • blackjetta18t1blackjetta18t1 Member Posts: 278
    I tired the latch thing and it did not work, though it may for some, what worked on mine was lubricating the door seals, although now that it's cold here, it seems that the lubricant is frozen so it continues to creak...You need to lubricate every 2-3 months, atleast that's how often I need to.
  • blackjetta18t1blackjetta18t1 Member Posts: 278
    Hmm, not sure what that could be , however your problem sounds slightly similiar to this thing I've noticed on my car, it's like a popping noise from under the car, or the rear of the car. I could be in park, or the car could have been off for 20 some odd minutes, or if I tur it on and go slowly for the first few minutes, I hear popping. Someone told me it was my exhaust cooling down, but that doesn't make sense when it makes the noise when tunred on after a night in the cold...
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 16,373
    Hello All! I'm new to this post and I apologize if this problem has been brought up before. My Sister has a '00 Jetta GLS VR6. With 5,000 miles, the Transmission had to be replaced. The car has been problem free since then (now has 24,000 miles) and the REAR brakes (Pads & Rotors) had to be replaced. This is odd to me considering it is a FWD car. Shouldn't the Front brakes go first? Is this common for VW cars on the A3 platform?

    That being said, the Jetta is my Dad's favorite car in our family. He chose the Jetta to drive to Pittsburgh (From NY) over my Mom's CLK, My Saab, & his QX4.

    Did anybody see the specs on the 25th Anniversary GTI 1.8T (Europe Only:(? )-60 in 6.5 seconds! Pretty impressive!

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD

  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    What type of transmission, manual or automatic? The rear brake pads are a softer material than front and it is not unusual for them to wear out at or around 20K to 30K miles. Why did the rotors need to be replaced? Warped or grooved? If you get better pads such as Mintex Red Box you will not have problem of pads wearing quickly. The 00 Jetta is a A4 not A3 platform.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 16,373
    Her car is equipped with the Slushbox (4 speed automatic transmission with "fuzzy-logic shift points."

    I checked with her and she said just the pads were replaced.

    I'm pretty sure the Jetta is built on the A3 platform. The Passat (Sometimes called the Audi A5) is the only car I know of which shares its platform (B6) with the A4.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD

  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    A very small number of automatics have failed if you listen to owners at events, internet boards, and dealers but it seems that if they fail they usually fail within the first 10K miles.

    You are really confused with this platform thing.

    A4 or Mk4 Golf, Jetta and New Beetle are those produced since 1998 (New Beetle) and 1999 for Golf and Jetta.

    Current Passat is B5 platform and B4 was the previous one that ended in 1997.

    A1 or Mk1 was 1975 to 1984 Rabbit (Golf) and Jetta.

    A2 or Mk2 was 1985 to 1992 Golf and Jetta.

    A3 or Mk3 was 1993 to 1999 Golf and Jetta.

    A4 or Mk4 started in 1998 with New Beetle and 1999.5 for Golf and Jetta.

    The Cabriolet is still being built in Mexico on the Mk3 platform.

    I am not sure which platform is used on which Audi model so I will not comment on them. The Passat is certainly NOT on the B6? platform.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    The TT is built on the Beetle/Golf/Jetta A4 (Gen 4) platform I believe. Their is a current A3 platform, though I am not sure if there are an U.S. bound cars built on it. Ithink the current A3 platform is for the European small VW's like the Polo. The actual "A4" by Audi shares some parts with the B5 Passat platform, and the "A6" Audi I believe. I know it works the other way around - the B5 Passat platform was a cross between the "A4" and the "A6" Audis, with some VW specific parts thrown in for good measure, from what I understand. And yes, the Cabrio is the only car left from the Gen 3 platform. I will miss that car :(
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    or is the Audi TT actually based on the newer A3 platform?? Why does that sound right to me?
  • blackjetta18t1blackjetta18t1 Member Posts: 278
    is built on the same platform as the beetle and jetta, so whatever that would be it is...
  • 95gl95gl Member Posts: 18
    I've got a 95 Jetta GL with an odd problem. The driver's seat has stopped going up and down. My 6'1" husband borrowed my car yesterday and tried moved it down, but it wasn't moving easily. So he sat in it as is, but apparently his 250 lbs. moved it down. So today, I can barely see over the dashboard. The lever handle on the side of the seat doesn't even move.

    Any ideas?
  • longhorn77longhorn77 Member Posts: 4
    I love my car and have loved the Jetta VR6 for some time. I now own one and am getting pretty upset at a few minor problems. I've read some solutions for these in the chat rooms, but want to know what really works. Here's my problem:
    1. Right Side creak coming from somewhere. Door or something. This problem is recurrent and not continuous. It might have to do with colder weather.
    2. Back right door rattles. Sounds like something's loose in the speaker.

    I want to avoid the dealer if possible (obviously they'll probably have to address the rattle). I'm just incredulous that VW can't fix these little problems. It seems like it eventually happens to everyone. My car is luckily still under warranty, but what a hassle!
    Please help!!!!
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