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skm
Hope this helps.....
We tend to have more trouble on rainy days. Do you?
(Emphasis before I began is that no modifications have been done...purely stock vehicle)
When vehicle was new (1-10K) in 2000, I bought to the attention of the dealer at least 20-21 things that I thought may be problems in the long run. They ALL came back diagnosed, "no problem found" or "can't duplicate problem." -- Keep in mind ALL documented including type written responses stating the technicians responses on VW dealer letterhead
The problem ranged from:
1) Slight pull to the left
2) Check engine light (Emissions Workshop)
3) Low rumble behind the dash when AC is on
4) Mirror does not retain its' settings when going put in reverse (feature on VR6 model),
5) Cruise control light
7) Etc.,
Commenting on 3 of these 5 things (even though there were a lot more):
The slight pull to the left was diagnosed at 19K as a "potential" problem with my tire to "I hit a pothole" after mentioning this problem at 3k, 6K, 9K and 12K. Then they told me that I was "out of warranty and that I had a problem with the tire and that I would have to take it up with Goodyear. I did as VW dealer suggested and they replaced the tire. However, now at 65K, the problem still lingers.
The cruise control light has never come on. I was told that this model vehicle does not have this feature - case closed. Now I am told that it has to be replaced for this to work and that I would be charged, even though I have a diagnostic receipt Again ALL written on VW dealership letterhead that stated "no problem found! :mad:
Check Engine light on/off intermittently, "no problem found" or "cannot duplicate problem." Only to find out later that if they disconnected the battery for 15 minutes, the light goes out. They give the vehicle back to me and "things are fine." Yea, right --- case closed. :mad:
As a result of this, the check engine light has been on for a while, but the car has been running fine. Everyone (all technicians) have always confirmed that I had nothing wrong with the vehicle and that there was "no problem found." Therefore, I said (to myself), well "okay" then as long as there appears to be nothing wrong, "okay." Bear in mind though that only 4K miles have passed since the dealership has mentioned it on my receipt. I have been very frustrated that those VW technicians are not able to find out anything, at least when I was within warranty. :confuse:
Now, on Friday November 11th, my ASR and EPC light both came on simultaneously, while the "Check Engine" light was still on. I stopped the car and started it again and they went off, except for the "check engine" light. So I said, maybe it's oil, since I was 2K overdue (yea right!!). :confuse:
I took it into the dealer in MD. To make a long story short and to enlighten you further, I have kept up with my oil changes, 10K maintenance, 40K and now my 60K maintenance and now comes the "best part." Now, after the diagnosis by an "expert" VW technician who has 3 years experience (VW standard), he presents me with a bill in excess of $2K, (let me break it down for you --- that's $2058.00). That is correct Two Thousand Dollars and fifty eight cents. :mad:
Now, I have failures in both O2 sensors, mass air flow sensor, ignition coil, spark plugs are fouled and need to be replaced, fuel system service, clean throttle body, and a vacuum valve. Now, for those 'experts' who are reading my thread, please do not tell me that I have "bad gas" and leave it at that. I need to know more, otherwise I can sell it to you for a small fee, since more than likely I will have the same problem at an even higher mileage.
I was told to call the VW customer service located in Detroit (for those of you who want it 800-822-8987) and I was on the line with a rather nice gentleman who mediates my case with "his superiors." From this discussion, he managed to have the dealership pay for the mass air flow sensor, while VW Corporation paid for $600 (notice I said VW Corporation and not the VW marked dealer - I will explain later). Even though, he was well-mannered, he made me feel that I was at fault and that he was doing me a favor and that I owed him. I mentioned to him everything that I explain to all of you, but he kept harping on the fact that I was out of warranty and that the same dealer diagnosed the "check engine" light being on 4K earlier and said that I did nothing about it.
The VW Corporation representative also told me of a VS (these are ALL the letters) emissions recall that I was not aware of. He said that he would have the dealer to run this ("software update") on my vehicle to see if it would erase the flags from the "check engine" display and clear the system. Now before I took the vehicle into the dealership, I had done some homework on the net to find 3 recalls for my vehicle. Well, check this out, the recalls that I found for my vehicle were done, except one, but the one that was not was for the 'baby-seat' (you all know the one). I gave him the numbers that I had and he said the VW do not use the same codes. Here is the catch:
I asked him how long this VS recall had been issued and he told me for a while. I asked him why the dealer(s) NEVER said anything, and he said that they are not obligated to say ANYTHING about any recalls notices. It is the responsibility of the owner and that it is sent in the mail. Well, guess what! I have moved, like anyone else (for starters), but more importantly what does this sound like... how the (franchised) dealership gets its' $$$!! I can only wonder if this VS recall would have actually addressed my problem long ago, like 5 years ago, or maybe even 4K miles ago. Oh, I forgot, 4K miles ago, I would have had to pay $93 for a system diagnosis.... whatever!!!
Questions:
1) How can all of the problems suddenly pop-up with 4K?
2) What about all of the times that I mentioned this problem and no one did anything about it (I have all of the paperwork)?
3) VW certifies its' technicians after going to school for 3 years and after granting them a few certifications?
4) ALL dealers are franchised, which I will explain regarding VW Corporation vs. VW dealers. VW Corporation (calling the 800#) will tell you that all dealers are independently owned. In case you don't know what that means, it means that each dealer can set their own prices, make up their own rules, and can also diagnose problems differently -- that's right. This is why we ALL have similar issues, but different answers, based on what the 'expert' technicians are telling us. Another example of this is my owners manual (written) tells me that I can change my oil at 7K, the dealer tells me 5K, but gas station mechanics will tell you 3K (who work on older VW). (Sounds like VW (Corporation & dealers) may began to have a few lawsuits, beginning with me) in the near future.
Continued on #4164
If the dealer can make up their own prices, create their own guidelines, then how can there ever be a standard? There isn't any anymore. This, again, is why we are all being told different things to similar problems.
Please, if you are a VW technician, no offense, but this is what VW Corporation and the VW service dealers in the MD, DC, and VA are telling me -- (hearing it from the horses' mouth again from, VW Corporation.)
My concern now is how I will pay $2058 (minus the $800 dollars in deduction) for my 5 year old Jetta with only 64K, speaking of which just got done paying for it in August. ha ha ha ha... how ironic!!!
I personally think that German engineering has teamed up with American capitalism and has began to demonstrate that they can make just as much $$$ as American and Japanese automakers by the induction of Microsoft patches from the computer-generation of bogus "error codes." The next car that I purchase WILL not be a VW, Audi, or Lamborghini, since they are also owned by VW. (I may be mistaken in the names owned by VW), but I am almost certain). If I am not certain about these names, I am most certain about what I have learned about VW Corporation, and the unknown, nameless, franchised dealerships over the past couple of days.
I hope that this clears the air for any of you frustrated "genuine" (I hope that VW symbol on your car is real) VW owners. There is more to this story, but I'm sure that you are probably just as frustrated and pissed off (excuse me) with your VW as I am with mine, so I'll stop!
In the meantime, I have loved my Jetta, it's been fun, fast and furious (no mods), but it may be time to turn it in, at 64K (yes, that is only sixty four thousand miles) and continue to drive my 1991 VW GTI 8v, with 216,000 miles! Never had to spend more that $1200 at any time, unless it was for tires/rims/stereo more than 15 years ago.
My friend -- that is a LONG way for any car to travel and it is not unusual to have to fix a thing or 2 along the way.
It was not all that long ago (1980s)that a typical car at 50,000 miles meant that it was worn out and ready for the scrapyard. (back then, VW was able to travel 90,000 miles 8-)
Thanks for the response. I will sure give it a try.
The tolerances in modern engines are DESIGNED for the thinner oil unless the ambient tempartures average 90-100F.
VW has recommended 5W30 since at least 1976 (my first VW Scirocco) As far as I am aware, VW has never recommended 10W30 in their water-cooled gasoline engines.
I once went into an "AutoZone" looking for 5W30 oil... they had at least 200 quarts of 10W30 of various brands. BUT ABSOLUTELY NO 5W30 IN THE STORE!! (I would hope they have changed their ways by now.)
Thanks in advance!!
ps: is there a website that has this info. ???
I've made several appointments to have it check but each time the appointment rolled around the light was out. It's nuts!
Perhaps if you keep in mind the "diagnostic" which is executed for the Evaperative Emmissions you would have a better chance of isolating the issue.
Basically, a slight pressure is pumped into the air above the fuel in the tank. If this pressure cannot be maintained (leaks out) then the MIL will come on.
BTW: You should be turning the gascap to click AT LEAST one time. (I usually give it about 4 -7 clicks to make sure it is well seated)
no funny noise no smoke shifting feels alot better than the sunfire no slop i need a car for school for 2 years cant afford lots of breakdowns schools about 40mi each way this car is in my price range will it work or nickel and dime me in to death :confuse:
Used american cars are a lot cheaper than imports. If you bought a domestic model, you could probably save some money on the purchase price (which would leave something for the inevitable repairs) and/or buy one with lower miles.
I have had a couple Ford Contours (Mercury Mystique is pretty much the same car) it is a nice to drive car, that is pretty comparable to the Jetta in size, handling, etc. These are also not known as the most reliable cars either, but Edmunds indicates average retail is maybe about $1000-$2000 less than Jetta. Or, again according to edmunds, a 1998 contour with about 70,000 miles should be comparable in price to the Jetta with 113,000.
brake light failure, my car wasn't included in the recall for that.
2nd set of rotors placed on back
the strange noise in the rear that sounds like busted shocks, but they never found it under warranty.
Now the CD changer is giving some error code and I can't get the CD magazine out
the trunk latch is broken
add to all this the NUMEROUS problems that occurred under warranty, most of them seem to be common with Jetta owners (coolant light, firmware upgrades, window falls out), I don't remember them all.
to think I swapped a '99 sonoma which was starting to experience some issues at 37,000 miles for this. I see the new passat commercials and have to wonder who would buy a VW.
why would someone get rid of a contour at just 50000 or a little more i ve never owned a new car but if i did buy a new car i would keep it till it died. so when i go to a car dealer
and see chevy malibus and buick centurys or chrysler concords with 60 or 70 thounsad miles red flags go up someone went and paid good money to get a car that they only kept for a couple
years red flag i love to drive i dont beat on my cars and i will never buy a ford or any car with a auto tranny especially
with auto overdrive ive had a vw before it was a 1987 vw scirocco i think it was a 1.8 8v good car i hated having to get rid of it i am hopeing the 98 jetta gt 5 sp will do the same.i also had a 93 legacy wagon i bought it with 130000 mi on it it was the best car we ever had it died 4 years later with 175000 mi always passed emmisions only repais normal ware and tare never left me straned like other cars iv onwed so i gess what im trying to say i that if the car was desently taken care of it will run but when you buy a used car you never know what you are getting no matter how many miles it has on it . anyone with a 98 gt give me the rundown what should i be looking for
1)Channging head or tailight bulbs every 6 months
2)Theres that grease that keeps comming out below the driver's door
3)Rattles, rattles, rattles
4) CD player is funky sometimes
Despite those, I do miss it. It was a great car and never died on me. Drove it thru the worst rain and snow. If VW hadnt screwed with the look of the car I wouldve gotten the 06.
I would avoid this Jetta with 113,000 miles on it.
1 - What is glazing and what causes it?
2 - What are the consequences if I don't attend to it right away?
Thank you.
b. Excessive use (WAY PAST heat range passed @ what the pads are rated) they in effect become gooey and glaze over.
c. improper cooling
d combination of:
2. It diminishes your ability to stop.
Aside from someone looking at the pads/rotors, are there any other indications that would alert me that I have a glazing issue? i.e. sounds, handling, etc.
Thanks.
Popping off the pads is realy easy, but I would hesistate to say go ahead and do it, for it IS amd CAN BE a HUGE safety issue. This can be further complicated if you do not know what you are doing OR encounter problems.
Thanks
Shifty the Host
Anyway, thanks for your advice. Seeing that I didn't even know what glazing was, I won't be popping off anything anytime soon. I'll be taking my Jetta in to my guys at the garage.
Thanks!
With todays modern pad materials, it is VERY rare for "glazing" to occour. I guess that dragging brakes or "riding" the brake-pedal might "glaze" the pads. Some people notice squeeling brakes when the pads ae "glazed".
It is trivial to deglaze pads with some fine sandpaper upside-down on a mirror or other glass surface. 100-grit about 10-20 light strokes.
Some beleive that using the brakes too lightly can contrubute to the APPEARANCE of "glazing". In such conditions - perform some VERY HEAVY breaking to "let the smoke out" (about 3-4 HEAVY braking from 70-down to 5 MPH) follow with at least 20 minutes of continous driving to allow things to cool-down evenly. (dont sit at a stoplight with hot brakes!!!) Once things have cooled back down, your brakes will feel MUCH stronger than before.
If you do not feel as if your braking is compromized and am asking about "glazing" because you sensed that the mechanic was trying to pull the wool over your eyes... your senses may be correct. - I would suggest you ignore the whole idea of "glazing" and enjoy your car.
I have posted this URL here about 50 times previous... I guess it is time to post it again:
http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part1.html
http://www.khurramweb.com/cycling_articles/title/Brakes.html
http://web.inter.nl.net/users/BMW-K100RT-page/faultdiagnosis/48tm56_brake_problemsFD.htm
Thanks
Mary, ATL, GA
If it has drive-by-wire.. .then you most likely need to calibrate the throttlebody after changing the battery. (The flapper in the throttlebody needs to be "re-trained" to be in sync. with the accellerator pedal.)
Again -- if you would please provide more details. (instead of saying "drives crazy") We may be able to help you better.
If the engine falters at all, there is somthing that needs attention. I regularly remove all plug wires and wash them in soapy water (dish detergent), after rinsing and thorough drying, use a LIGHT layer of silicone grease on all boots where they contact the coil. (to help seal out water.)
I have also removed ignition coils and washed in soapy water. (the layer of grunge on the coil may cause misfiring)
If your enginge falters when the ignition coil is spritzed with water, then install the new coil you have orderd and try the "spritz-test" again.