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Comments
The VagCom is SOOOOO much more than a "fault reader" as you suggest. The VagCom also allows you to tweak, adjust, set, configure and alter the settings which are not available to the mortal VW owner.
Everything from the idle speed to the how the door locks react is all tweakable.
Well fortunately the issue seems to have reset itself. I repeated the steps I thought I had done at the gas station with the key in the door lock etc. and it is operating normally now. Appreciate the tip though.
It was mentioned that a relay was the cause, can someone tell me which one and how to replace?
I think I might be having a similar issue as spinfit may be having. My '06 has the Check Engine Light and apparently the engine will not allow itself to rev up faster than 300 RPM's regardless of what gear it is in (standard tranny).
I'm sure its gonna have to get plugged up to a reader, like a VagCom that bpeeples recommends.
btw, I appreciated that thread to the VAG tool locator!
I havent seen anyone else discuss this type of limiting of HP. Dunno if its just me or what. Darn cars are too smart for their own good.
anyhoo. thanks!
The problem you describe is classic "brake booster" problem. The brake booster is the device which puts the "power" into "power brakes"... it meters engine vacuum to reduce the amount of force you need to apply to the brake pedal.
When the brake booster starts to fail.... it "thinks" you are pressing the brake pedal and starts to apply the brakes for you.
Your dealership is either boneheads or shisters.... either way, the problem you describe is NOT in any way related to the calipers. Your dealership should be ashamed of themselves for making you pay for calipers which would obviously not help the problem.
A brake booster is not a new technology... the concept has been around for at least 30 years. How in the world can they tell you with a straight face that they dont know what the problem is?
It's really lame that they couldn't diagnose this problem. Even if by some highly unusual circumstances it turned out NOT to be the brake booster, this is such a classic textbook symptom that I wouldn't fault them for replacing it anyway on a "good guess".
But it IS the brake booster :mad:
The concept of using the engine vacuum became more widely used across various manufactures about 30 years ago. (I have the chiltons manuals from the 1960s and 1970s that show this)
Also notable... some manufactures had a crude version of AntiLockBrakes in the 1960s which used flyweights at the wheels. Pretty amazing they did this without any fancy electronics.
http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=175
I never heard of those anti-lock brakes. Very interesting idea!
Maybe we should send these pictures to the VW dealer? :P
I think they should do it for free for you or at least free labor with you buying the part, if you wish to compromise generously.
Defective brake lights on Golf, GTI, Jetta, New Beetle and R32 are a potential safety hazard and should be replaced.
February 26, 2007 - Around 800,000 Volkswagen vehicles have been recalled Monday because of faulty brake lights, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration said.
The 790,000 vehicles include Jettas, New Beetles, Golfs, GTIs and R32s...all in the United States.
The specific years and models affected are:
1999-2005 Jetta sedans
2001-2005 Jetta wagons
1998-2007 New Beetle
2003-2007 New Beetle Convertibles
1999-2006 Golfs and GTIs
2004 R32
The malfunctioning brake lights and brake light switches could fail to come on or remain stuck on.
This recall expands on one announced by the carmaker last year, when 362,000 Jettas and New Beetles were recalled due to the same defective part.
Gees.
Engine. It has started stalling now that the
temps here are around 95+. Did not have a problem
before temps got hot. If we let it sit for an
hour or so, it starts right up and runs fine
until it gets hot again. Had a trustworthy
mechanic check it out and found nothing wrong
with the fuel pump(s). My guess is vapor locking.
Ideas?? Can I wrap the fuel lines to keep them
cooler? Any ideas appreciated.
My daughters 2001 NewBeetle has been recalled both times to get new switch. My wifes Jetta only on the second recall and my other Daughters Gulf on the second recall also.
This is not really a big deal... if the switch fails, the brakelights will be stuck on and drain the battery overnight.
If you have not received a recall notice by now... you are either not going to get one or it is your own durn fault for not having registerd your VW with the factory when you bought a used one. (You should ALWAYS register a used car with the manufacturer so they can notify you of recalls.)
Paul
I would suggest you locate someone with a VAGCOM who would be happy to run diagnostics against your car. (search the internet for lists of VagCom owners in your area)
Another thing you could consider would be some auto-parts places such as "Autozone" will read the codes for you free of charge.
does anyone else have this problem and/or possible solutions for it?
While accelerating, with the windows down, i can hear this "tinny" noise coming from underneath the car, sounds like something metal is vibrating. it happens normally when i am accelerating between 20-30 miles and rpms are around 2500-3000, its really noticeable when going thorough tunnels, or along side a wall as i hear it echo
a friend told me it may be a possible transmission problem. i thought this to be true seeing as when i went from Park to drive and stepped on the gas, i would get a small lil jerk before i got going
so i had the transmission fluid changed,complete with new pan gasket and filter and still notice the noise, though the Park to drive problem is fine now, and shifts are very smooth, even when gunning it
what i am wondering is it possible that not enough fluid was put in during the fluid change i was told to go back in 2 weeks for an inspection to check for leaks.
is it even a problem with my transmission?. is this normal VW noise (i've only owned the car a few months now)
if anyone can give me any thoughts and suggestions that would be great.
thanks
:confuse: :lemon: ?????
If a fuel additive reduces some gunk build-up, it would be great.
Also, it is possible that your MAF has degraded over time and is contributing to your perceved performance reduction.
I also STRONGLY suggest you do not change engine oil every 3K miles. It is a waste of your time and $$ with no benifet to your engine. Only the folks that get PAIED to change your oil recommend a 3K mile OCI (Oil Change Interval)
In fact, it has been shown (using oil analysis) that MORE wear particals occour during the 1st 3,000 miles or so after an oilchange. After 3,000 miles, the oil tends to "clean up" by showing a sharp drop in wear particals.
There is no need to deviate from the owners-manual when it comes to OCI.
what is the point of that cover/shield anyways? was it difficult to take off?
thanks again for your help
I don't know that it is actually a cover, but more like an outer covering that is part of the muffler itself.
Good luck.
is this what you removed? it seems like metal but very thin, i can bend it a bit, but cant pull it off the screws which it is fastened to (i can see the screw tip and an odd looking washer on top of it there are a bunch of them) is this what u had to remove?
sorry for all the questions i just don't want to go ripping out something i really shouldn't, and i really wanna get rid of this noise, its driving me crazy!!! lol
thanks
In my case, if you can picture a cross section of a muffler(minus the baffles,etc) having two layers. The outer layer is what came loose. I will try and get real pics this weekend.
I know what you mean when you say it is annoying.
the only thing i am concerned with is will there be enough clearance if i take that out to ventilate the heat from the exhaust/resonator?
thanks again
I have a 2001 1.8T Jetta. Today, my AC stopped working and then about four hours later I was driving and the same light that indicates the emergency brake is on came on along with a very annoying beep. The beep sounds alot like when the car is on and the door is open.
Earlier today, I foolishly idled with my AC on full blast for 45 minutes and my car almost overheated. Can the mistake of idling like that have caused my compressor to go out? and can I have done any electrical damage (i.e. the emergency brake light and beep)? Please let me know what you think. Thanks!
Try to re-create the lamp and sound by lifting the emergancy-brake lever a little while the vehicle is moving. I would bet money that you will get the same thing you had before.
The the German engineers added this alarm to Volkswagens to tell you if you had not fully released the emergancy-brakes and tried to drive.
As for your AC....have you allowd enough time for the vehicle to sit? An AC system can get "froze up" and no air will pass thru the evaperator. If the AC still does not work after sitting overnight, the next step might be to hook up some pressure guages to the AC system and see what is going on .
My AC still does not work after sitting overnight. I had a family friend who knows a bit about cars look at it. He looked at the pressure and he said my pressue wasn't too low, but he couldn't get a 'charge' to start up my compressor...? So he thinks it may be my compressor that's the problem... which he said is really expensive
I'm planning on taking it in first thing tomorrow morning. If you can think of anything else please let me know! Thank you so much!
Greetings, I own a 2001 Jetta VR6. Nice car...until...
recently, the check engine and ECP? lights came on and the car went into "limp" mode (30 mph failsafe) on the freeway.
We took it to the dealer and after diagnostics, they reported that it needed a Mass Airflow Sensor ($250.00), a water temp sensor ($15.00) and a (Gulp) a new throttle body assembly ($1200.00). Total estimate: $1700.00. (Yikes!) I'm way to cheap for that.
So........
I work in a vehicle service center, so I spoke to some of the mechanics in our shops. They said between the miles on the car (77k) and not always running premium fuel, the fuel system (throttle body, sensor, etc) were probably "gunked" up. So, they highly recommended SEA FOAM fuel / engine treatment.
Results: No lights and the car runs great!
So, my do it yourself approach was:
I CAREFULLY cleaned the Mass air flow sensor with "CRC" Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner (go figure). Spray the cleaner on the element, but DONT TOUCH IT.
I also sprayed an entire can of carburator cleaner into the throttle body. Make sure to open the butterfly throttle valve and spray the crap out of it.
I also changed the air filter.
Finally, I poured an entire can of SEA FOAM into a full tank of premium fuel.
The car has been running great and it only cost me about $30.00 in additives, cleaners and a filter.
SO, if this proceedure can resolve these issues and save me from a $1700.00 service bill, it only makes sense that SEA FOAM is a great periodic preventative additive. I plan on adding a can every 4 to 6 months.
Good Luck.
As for your engine-temparture sensor... these are KNOWN to go bad on your model year. If yours is not GREEN in color... it would be wise to replace it. A faulty engine temp. sensor can fool the onboard computer into thinking the engine is never warmed up. This -in turn- will make your MPG go down due to excessive fuel being injected.
Each of my 2 daughers have 2001 VWs and BOTH of their (black in color) engine-temp. sensors went bad. I replaced with the newer GREEN one wich is only about $14 including O-ring.
to add to what you have mentioned, this noise does not occur when the engine is cold. This noise starts after the car has been driven for about half a mile.
The noise is similar to one of those 50 c.c. mopeds here in Hawaii.
I am planning to take it to the local Midas shop this weekend.
Another thing is when i shift the car from park to drive the car jerks before it will drive.. also everynow and then when im driving on the highway and have to slow down alot then speed back up.. when it shifts to go faster again it jerks. could this be the transmission going? or do all jettas do this? Please Help :confuse:
Thanks Liz
don't believe what VW says, they say you never have to replace it (they say its a "Lifetime Fluid") LIES! get it changed and i am sure you'll notice a difference.