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Comments
For his sake, I hope I'm right! :mad:
Thanks for the advice!
PS I don't know many VW owners that don't have a constant CEL to guide them on their way.
This assumption is kind of like assuming that the temperature guage is bad because it says your car is over heating. In my analogy, yes it could be a bad guage, but then again it could be that the engine is, in fact, too hot.
You would do well in heeding the above post warning you that it is most likely NOT the O2 sensor that is the problem.
You are also mis-interpeting what "bank1" means. If you have a 4-cylinder engine - then there is only 1 bank. (sensor1 and sensor2)
If you have the VR6 engine... then you would have 2 banks - each with 2 O2 sensors. (and 2 cats)
In all cases, the sensor BEFORE the cat is monitoring the status of the engine and feeding back to the injectors. The sensor AFTER the cat is monitoring the efficency of the cat.
Also, Just because you replaced somthing DOES NOT mean it is any good. A new part is untested and may be junk. That is why if you replace a part and it DOES NOT change anything, it is best to put the old part back in.
Have you run the built-in catalytic converter efficency test?
What about your engine-temparture sensor... if yours is NOT the green one, that may be your problem. (computer "thinks" the engine is too cold and injects too much fuel causing O2 sensor to flag a problem.)
Yup - cars cost money to maintian, that is a fact of life. That is why I run my own diagnostics and do most of my own repairs.
I can replace ALL my brakes and rotors for $200 in an afternoon using the very best components. A shop would cost me $800 and they would use cheep components.
when it first occured there was a strong electical burning smell?? I would have assumed the VW tech's would have figured it out by now. with no luck I'm hoping someone out there may have come across this unique problem - thanks
1. What is causing the radiator issue?
2. When will the car require major maintenance (timing belt, etc). I put 60k miles on it in 2 years (30k/yr) but the rate has decreased to 15k-20k/yr.
3. Can I expect the car to last another 100k miles with routine dealer maintenace?
4. Are there any things I should be on the lookout for?
Thanks!
Steve
I have the VW factory shop manual open in front of me for your 2001 1.8T engine and it tells me the following:
Sensor1 is BEFORE the catalytic converter.
Sensor2 is AFTER the catalytic converter.
I think that answers your question.
labor only
Personally I see no reason to stop using premium .
yep about 15 hours, jeffyscott is exactly right, and around $4000 for a new long block. So here in California, if you include new radiator, hoses and belts (which you should do), given our high labor rates, this job could over $6000 bucks. Hopefully you might have access to a good used engine ?? or lower labor rates.
At the $6000 range the car is approaching a total, so you should plan this operation carefully and try to control your costs or at least shop around and see what 2001s are going for in your area---in other words just replace the car. I'm seein' prices around $8000 asking in the SF Bay Area, so figure $7500 to buy a decent one.
It depends a lot on what shape your car is in, mileage on it, etc.
Dont forget to reset all codes after swapping the components. Obviously, if the errorcode stays with the #1 cylinder... the ignitor is not the problem.
I understand why you would like fix it... hard to beat 50+ MPG.
Have you checked out this place that offers rebuilt/used engines?
1b The indicator about exterior light can be interesting. My 06 is illuminating that one intermittently - seems like one of the front DRLs is intermittently working on my car. Can you have someone examine all the lights at night-time as well as day-time, while car is running and you hit the brakes and test all signals/headlights?
2 major maintenance will be required (N-67000)/R years from now, where R
is whichever rate you report above in miles/year, and N is the service interval from your owners manual, in miles. My 06 owners manual might have a gasser section ..I think your car has 1.8T engine... I'll look it up for you if you want, but hopefully you have the correct 07 owners manual.
3 I do not know.
4. Oh yes. Way beyond the scope of vehicles, however.
Please lmk if you find the solution and how much it cost you. I will continue to research.
Thank you.
If you have the ignition turned OFF when you swap ignitors, there is absolutely no damage you can do. (assuming you dont DROP or ESD one of them in the process.)
Think of it this way... what is the difference between SWAPPING a couple ignitors - or REPLACING them? (Answer.... cost!)
BTW: The "recalled" coil-packs was not due to VW mistake... the vendor who was contracted to build them took some shortcuts during the buid-process. VW ended up "eating" the cost to replace them. (I would assume VW dealt with that vendor approprately to recoup their losses)
I promptly called service and took the car in. When I got there, the AC stopped working and the fan was like the sound of a jet engine - I am guessing it went into protection mode of some sort.
So far service has stated they have no idea what is the problem. All of the computer parts check out fine. They have a specialist looking at it now, but I just got off the phone and he is still stumped.
Has anyone ever heard of anything like this?
Let me add about a month ago, I had coolant temp sensor replaced because CEL came on. A/C worked before & after sensor was replaced.
Thank you in advance - any advice is helpful!
~holli
HOWEVER: With all the goofy codes you are seeing, I would suspect that there may be a GROUND problem. Only a ground-problem could influence so many disparate systems.
If I were working on that car, I would start by spending about an hour removing, cleaning, soldering, filing, checking every ground connection to the body I could find. I would pay close attention to the battery-engine, battery-body, and computer grounds.
I have an 03 jetta automatic with 59k miles. Probably at around 52k miles the car gradually began making squeaking noises. i doubted it was me since the car overall has been ok. however, the squeak got so loud it almost has become embarrassing. i can only hear it when i'm driving at low speeds - upto 20 mph or so. i thought it was the brakes but they said the original front and rear still have a good 50% left. however, when they jacked up the car and just rotated the wheels, the squeak was loud and clear. they seem to think it's the rotors. do you agree that this is all it is?
next, i have a grinding kind of noise every time i hit a speed bump or am driving down my drive way onto the street - there is a slight elevation from street onto driveway. it makes sort of a crunch noise. i can force this to happen when i bounce the car up and down on the hood. once i applied some wd-40 in the door hinge and that seemed to help a bit. does anyone know what i need to do to get rid of these noises?
work i've had to do on the car include:
- replace wheel bearing - barely covered under warranty period
- brake light switch <-- retarded problem - covered by recall
- check engine light due to coolant temperature system and thermostat - $150 fix
i don't want to have any more out of pocket repairs! maintenance is ok.
Rotors by themselves CANNOT make any noise... they just spin around. Somthing must be touching/rubbing on a rotor for noise to be generated.
It sounds to me that your brakes need a PM (Preventive Maintenance).
It would not hurt to pull the wheels and remove the brake-pads. Clean everything up with wire brush. Check that the dust-shield is not rubbing on the rotors.File any burrs from the caliper-guides. apply brake-grease and reassemble.
Oftentimes, by doing this, you may resolve issues such as what you are describing.
I PM the brakes on my cars every couple of years to keep things working well. The salt used on the roads can really rust-up the brake-works long before pads are worn out.
thanks.
I live in South Utah County.
Oftentimes, crud built up on the surface of the coil can cause problems. It may be worthwile to REMOVE AND CLEAN the coil in hot soapy water. (I use an old dishpan, dishsoap and toothbrush for this.) Rinse well and allow to dry in the sun. Inspect for cracks (the most common failure-mode for an ignition coil) Some folks have had good luck sealing cracks with automotive silicone sealant.
Given the price of an ignition-coil, it may be worth the effort to try.
I have a 2001 Jetta 2.0L 5 speed with 98K miles, I might be able to help.
Thanks,
Joe
even if the keys are not in the ignition.i'm trying to narrow down the problem.
thanks
Hope that helps you...
I wonder if the law now allows for electrical-connection to the ODBII connector to get OD readings? The advent of onboard computers has really changed the automotive industry.
I am asking these questions because I just moved here and do not know how the system works here...
Does the car have a VW Certified warranty? In that case there should be no question that it is under warranty. VW Certified cars are supposed to be checked thoroughly before delivery--that would have been the dealer's chance to notice the alternator had been replaced. If they did not notice it, it was their mistake and you shouldn't be harmed by their mistake.
Also, ask the dealer who serviced your car to prove that the alternator was not original-equipment spec and was installed improperly such that the alternator caused the problem. They are asserting that is the case, so they should be able to prove it. Another option is to call VW Customer Support. They may be interested in your being a happy VW owner in these times when it's hard to sell a car.