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I read several postings on the Impala board, that if the car sits two-three days or longer, there is a smoke for several seconds after starting engine. An oil smoke. No smoke if the car is used every day.
Impala have the 3800 V-6 engine.
Steve
Host
SUV and Vans Message Boards
Stay away from companies that fail to inform the public about the rue nature of their product. It is not synthetic!!!!
It mentioned - change your oil at 5000 miles, and said if you are using synthetic, change at 6000.
I don't think they had FAA-PMA approval is the reason they don't
use it in Aviation engines today?. Amsoil did not have a sludge problem Why does Mobil-1 have such a sludge problem if it is so good??
aspenwhite: I have a PF like yours and I have used Valvoline
synthetic sence new and it works very well. Steve from PF owers club.
I'm not sure if the Mobil 1 sludge problem has to do w/aviation or automotive engines (#760) but I'll use Valvoline SynPower on my next oil chng at 5k miles just in case. See you at the PF club owners board. Aspenwhite
Another option, loosen the bolt, then back it all the way out by hand, being careful to keep pressure on the bolt. Pull it away slightly until you've drained the correct amount, then simply thread it back in and tighten!!
Later
Later
is non-deturgent and used 50-100 hrs. without any problems. What if any
difference is there in automotive oil and Aviation oil?? Not much. In the web-sight
on sludge from AV-1 they commented about stuck oil control rings,main and rod
bearings showed lubrication distress,severe cam lobe wear & spalling,ect.
Their rationale was 100% synthetic oil is a superb lubricant but a lousy cleaner!
I am using 100% synthetic in my SUV and blended oil in my others. But none
with Mobil-1. Steve
If I do, I'll be the first to eject Mobil 1.
Later
I have been using Mobil1 in my 1994 Camry since the first oil change (500 miles). It is now about 130,000 miles. Recently, the engine developed a noise from inside the timing belt cover and my mechanics changed the timing belt, pulleys, and water pump. After that the noise got louder and the mechanic suspects that the cam lobe gear is wearing down. I am still driving the car, but now I change the oil (mobil 1) every 3000 miles instead 5000 miles wishing it won't break down.
As to cahning the Mobil 1 more often then in the past due to some wear, I don not feel that it will make any difference. I am sure the Mobil 1 (like the Amsoil I use) is still perfectly fine at 5,000 and 7.500 and did not cause additional wear. I too have 130,000 on a 92 Camry V6 using Amsoil since 1,000 miles changed at 7,500 mile intervals
when they had the valve covers off?
The truck is towed to the nearest garage and the mechanic declares the engine is fried and a new one is needed. He didn't open it. My friend has the truck towed back to his house and takes off the cylinder head. The cylinder bores still show hone marks. There is no evidence of scoring. The only thing damaged is the head gasket. He replaces that, drains the remaining oil and, fills up with Mobil 1 again and 2 years later the truck is still going strong.
Moral of the story? Use Mobil 1. If he had been using dino oil the engine would have been fried.
My Porsche engine seized with synthetic oil, but it was an air-cooled engine, so that could have been an entirely different dynamic going on there.
I never use synthetic in normal use, as I am convinced it does me no good in everyday driving, but when I run across the desert in summer, I put it in.
If you ask why I wouldn't use synthetic for the type of protection the guy got in his pickup, I'd have to say that I would never let my engine overheat as he did in the first place. You've got to watch your gauges on modern cars...modern alloy engines give you very little slack for overheating damage, synthetic oil or no.
Which reminds of another story that happend to me. I was travelling at night on a lonely road sometime in the 1960's and it was pouring with rain - play spooky music while you read this. My concentration was on the road ahead and I failed to look at my gages. I thought I smelt burning rubber but ignored it. Many miles further on the car lost power and came to a halt. I glanced down but my gages including the temperature gage all showed normal. To cut a long story short, a radiator hose had burst and the coolant had leaked out. Why did the temperature gage still read normal? Because the sensor wasn't surrounded by coolant anymore and was in fact only measuring the temperature of the hot air around it. It was one of those rear engined er..Renault Dauphines. Funny little thing. But hey, it had a wet sleeved engine and sleeves and matching pistons were cheap! But I digress....
What was the rubber smell? The hoses had melted onto the coolant inlet and outlet on the engine. And what about the engine? Only the head gasket had blown! What was the secret of no further damage? STP had come onto the market in the country where I lived at that time. I had poured a container full into my engine oil. If I recall correctly, STP is also some synthetic concoction. I firmly believe that is what saved my engine.
Oh, you won't get any belief from me about STP--I think that stuff is pure VOODOO in a can...if you've ever opened up an engine that had STP used in it regularly, you'd be shocked as to what a mess it makes in there....HOWEVER, that being said, I have used it, mixed with oil, to lubricate new bearings going into an engine...as it is incredibly sticky for a few minutes at engine start-up.
So I have used it's GOO properties to advantage, but I don't think it does any good whatsoever...you got lucky is my theory....also both these "survival" stories seem to be related to big, heavy iron blocks on older cars or trucks....they are hard to kill from overheating, due to their crudity (how can you hurt a wood stove with fire?) while modern engines have little tolerance for it.
RE; Texas---yeah, I know it gets hot, but I've driven my Alfa is 100 degree Nevada heat with regular oil, day after day at high speeds, and never had a problem. That being said, if I wasn't so lazy at the time, I would have used synthetic for that type of driving, but I never thought it was the difference between having trouble in the desert and not having trouble...it was just a question of that little extra insurance under extreme conditions.
Normal engine oil is used in race cars going close to 200 mph, so I think it can handle anything we normally do as drivers on city or county roads.
I've been using Mobil 1 in my car ('97 Mazda 626 2.5L V-6, 5-spd) since the first oil change, and every 4k miles thereafter, and I've not noticed any earthshattering benefits. In fact, I'm pretty sure I'm throwing money away!!
But, I decided this would be a long-term experiment, so I'll continue.....
Of course, to make this a true experiment, I'd need another identical in which dino. oil was used under similar driving conditions for a comparison.....
So, my advice? Buy Mobil's stock and reap the benefits of my curiosity!!!
handle anything we normally do as drivers on city or county roads"
Would you please specify what race cars you're talking about.
Thanks.
Walmart has both fully synthetic and synthetic blend. Both costs significantly less than the name brands.
Vadp,
I think Mr. Shiftright meant the Radio Shack remote controlled race cars going at 200mph (to scale).
Don't know about WalMArt, ask who makes it?
Which brings me another story. In the 1950's I used to use William Penn oil - today's Pennzoil maybe? My car was a British Morris Ten. (har har har) Anyway, the reason I used it was because it had a nice green color which stayed that way till the next oil change. One day I happened to take the valve cover off. Well, I saw why the oil stayed so clean. It simply left all the sludge in the engine. It looked like a great black block of jello under there. It wasn't a detergent oil at all. But what did we know about oil in those days anyway? So you see, even STP must have been better than that.