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Comments
Bob
http://www.subaru.com/intro.html
There is a "contact" area on the site, or perhaps Pattie, our resident from SOA, could help.
Bob
Thanks,
Richard
Stephen
Bitman
ash
1) Park at an edge (end of row, landscape island, next to disabled space grid, etc.) so that only one car can park next to you - reduction in risk of 50%.
2) Park at an edge such that if another car parks next to you, its driver-side door will be away from you (cannot guarantee that someone won't pull-through though!). Corollary: Don't pull through if it will bring a driver's door into potential contact.
3) Park next to expensive new cars that look well maintained.
4) Avoid large vehicles with massive doors. But see #5.
5) Minivans with sliding doors are more safe (but watch that front passenger door).
6) Don't drive too far forward - some people use their bumpers to determine when to stop.
7) Prepare to park a long way away. Take an umbrella.
By following this path, you will be without any dings my son.
I've been casually shopping for torque wrenches. Can you give me an idea of what I should look for. They seem to run the full range of prices and features. Any thoughts?
Greg
There are more expensive digital ones, and cheaper dial-type, but I'd avoid both. The dials are hard to read, and the digitals are pricey and I'm not convinced they'd be as accurate.
Hmm, will the brakes fit, that's tough. The 2001 got even bigger brakes than the 2000s.
The diameter is close enough, but keep in mind you'll lose ground clearance, and for snow tires that's a no-no.
The rims probably have the same offset and bolt pattern, but I'd consider 215/70R15 or even 205/75R15 snow tires. And there's still the brake issue.
Loved the rules of parking! You thought of several things that never came to my mind. I shall obey!
-juice
Craig
I'd bring it into the dealer but my first guess would be a belt tensioner. Not epidemic, but an infrequent Subaru problem of late.
-Colin
I did the 30k service myself and took photos, so you'll see tips for an oil change, fuel filter swap, air filter replacement, fuel additive, and radiator flush.
There are other links too, but I'll save those for the Mods topic.
-juice
ash
-mike
-Colin
$300+ each corner for the parts alone....
-mike
Not to mention good parts prices.
-juice
There are kids skateboarding around outside, so I'm sure one of them slipped and used the Outback as a fall breaker. If I had caught them, god knows what I'd do.
Anyway, it's not like a crease in the metal - it appears a section got pushed in by hand. I'm guessing it should be hammered out easily. After I get it fixed that car is going to stay in the garage when parked.
It always hurts though to have damage done to a car.
-- frustrated in Canada,
Ash
-Colin
There is NO way you can modify the wheel/brake assembly to eliminate this possible interference. I hope this helps!
Doggon-it!
Is this a good deal? Also, on the front left bumper, I have some scratches from when I "hit" a car several weeks ago...just some tiny black marks showing the plastic underneath.
Would this complete detail include the necessary cleaning of the bumper, dya think? Should I pay for it anyway?
Thx!
The black marks are from paint being taken off the bumper likely. Cleaning it won't fix it. You need touchup paint.
Sorry I think we need more info..
Since I got my Legacy 6 months ago the fuel gauge has never been accurate. When the tank is full it reads full but quickly drops down to near empty. My dealer not only quoted over $300, which I thought was quite a lot, but seemed to be totally uninterested in doing the work. I did some research on alldatadiy.com and found that there are actually 2 gauges in the tank of the AWD cars due to the saddle bag shape needed to fit over the rear drive shaft. Plus, there is a sending unit on top of the tank and of course the readout on the dash. I have no idea which of these is the culprit. Has anybody had or seen this problem?
Also, this letter from Subaru says I should have the 3750 mile service. Considering when the car was just in, the 3000 mile service was done, the 3750 isn't necessary, right? And to wait for 7500?
Bit
Bit
Ash is right....you need touchup paint for the bumper.
Right.....your 3K service took the place of the 3750 one. When your next one is due is a personal decision and will depend in part on the type of driving you do. Some owners change their oil every 3K while others wait and do it every 7500. There's a fair amount of evidence indicating that changing the oil more frequently than every 7500 miles is a waste of money while the 3K crowd argues that, for the small price of an oil change, the additional peace of mind is worth it. Personally, I split the difference and change mine every 5-6K. Of course, frequent stop and go driving or driving in severe conditions requires more frequent oil changes.
-Frank P.
-mike
-Frank P.
Craig
I know paisan tows people that are stuck regularly
I follow a 7.5k schedule and my fuel efficiency keeps improving, so I'll stick to my guns.
Robert: I would not mess with the fuel gauge, just because a leak can be devastating (I also don't do my plumbing at home). I'd pay the $300 or ignore the faulty gauge and use the trip odo instead.
-juice
On the Forester, I noticed that gauge sits too long (up to 75 mi) on the "full" point, then skips all the middle section over next 150 mi, then sits again at the bottom until about 320 mi. Then light comes on. I wish it was more "linear". I use 2nd trip odo for mileage anyway, but still...
I recall seeing one really bad gauge in the rental Pontiac: it was sitting at the "Full" point for about 7/8 of tank, than dropped down withing next 10-20 miles to the "E" point. Maybe it was a marketing trick, to fool people on the test-drive that the car has amazing fuel economy?
I'm actually thinking of switching to Mobil 1, any thoughts on that?
-mike
-Frank P.
This is what I've been told. Is this pure hype or is there substance to this thought?
Thanks for the help.
Don
The filter will be accumulating some nasty stuff by then. Since it is impossible-- or at least very impractical-- to change the filter without changing the oil on a bottom-mount filter like Subaru you don't have a choice.
Some exotic oils like Redline and AMSOil quote very high change intervals as being acceptable. Sure the oil might still be fine at 10,000 or even 15,000 miles but the filter is LONG overdue for a change. I think 4,000-5,000 miles is fine. If someone wants to change the oil more often that's their choice.
-Colin
Thanks,
Don
To add another wrinkle into the discussion, my last car (a Honda) had 7500 mile oil change intervals, but you only changed the filter every 15000 miles. This confirms some data I had seen in a magazine years earlier saying that most oil filters could last through 2-3 changes on a clean running engine. To me, the main benefit was that every other oil change was a real quickie.
Craig
Maybe next time I'll cut the filter apart and take some photos. That could be interesting.
-juice
Craig
Also...is there some significance to "Juice"?
It wasn't planned, it just kinda happened that way. It's catchy, though, and people always remember it.
I want to get every gadget there is. I'd looking at a rear dust deflector next.
-juice
PS They're not only on my vehicle, either. I have a Subaru hat, two T-shirts (Subaru Lifestyle Sports and the SCOA shirt), a Casio Forester watch, and a Subaru fanny pack. Any suggestions to complete the wardrobe?
-mike