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We are just experiencing for the last month what most every other baseball city goes through EVERY YEAR
Also, to ikramerica -- yes indeed. thanks for the info about the c280 -- I agree that it sounds like a much better package... i have a fear that it may come in outside my budget, but budgets are made to be changed, no ;-)
Again, thanks much. The other car I'm strongly considering is a Volvo S60 and I see there are some posts about those here as well, so I'm gonna read those now.
Thanks!
S
Thanks Mucho!!
A security deposit is refundable when you return the car in good condition.
Dennis
I'm not sure if you saw my earlier post, as I had seen that you had answered some other people after I posted my earlier request (#19905), so if not, here it is again. If you've seen my post already please disregard this one.
Can you please tell me the MF and Residual for a Maxima SE. I need them for either 24 or 27 or 30 months with 15K miles a year. I can't go for a longer term on this car since the car would be passed the 36K warranty before the lease is up based on me driving 15K miles a year and I don't think that leasing a car past the warranty period makes any sense.
Also, can you tell me the MF and Residual for an '05 Infiniti G35x for:
36 months and 15K miles a year.
Thanks in advance for your help.
I won't be going back to the same dealership I just spoke with, since they are rip-off artists there, but would it be possible to get out of the lease without paying somewhere else? It's a 2002 MDX with 32k miles on it, and I pay 523.54 a month including taxes. The dealer told me the buy-out price for them was 23,000 (they first said it was 25k, and then a few minutes later said that American Honda would give it to them for 23k so I am assuming that 23k is the real buyout) and they said my car was worth only 21k because of the tires and two scratches. I appreciate any advice that you all can offer.
Car_Man,
I have been offered the following V70R lease(s):
4yr/12k miles
MSRP 43440, cap cost 35995
MF of .00189
$1k total out of pocket - 503mo. (with tax here in NC)
3yr/12k miles
same MSRP and cap cost
MF of .00214
$1k total out of pocket - 548/mo. (with tax here in NC)
Car_man
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SO, that's why I posted the Qs about the Volvos -- I posted them on the wrong forum before, sorry about that, but now I think I've got the right place... When it's convenient, I'd love to know about the MF and Lease info on an S60R... I see that somebody just requested info on a V70R -- and my #s are almost identical...
MSRP: 43410
Cap cost: 35258.07
Mos: 39
Resid: .467 (seems low!)
MF: .00205
Init Pmt: 1387.90 (1st month plus sec plus reg)
Pmt: 547.90
Thoughts? Thx!
S
If you were to lease a 2005 Infiniti G35x through Infiniti Financial Services for 36 months with 15,000 miles per year, its base lease money factor and residual value should be .00205 and 60%, respectively.
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You never mentioned the selling price or MSRP of the car that you are interested in leasing. These are important number for you as a consumer to know for two reasons. First, the selling prices of leased vehicles can be negotiated, just as if you were paying cash for them. Without knowing this car's selling price in relation to its MSRP you don't know how much of a discount you are getting on it. The second reason is that one needs the selling price and MSRP, including the destination charge, of a vehicle to calculate its lease payment. I would be more than happy to work up a sample lease payment on the car that you are interested in for you if you let me know what these numbers are.
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Next step is to call the lease bank (whoever it is) and get a current buyout price for yourself. Make sure you get a break down of the price, since this could contain the buyout, early exit penalties, and tax. If you sell the car to a dealer or trade it you need not pay the taxes. Once you have the buyout price (w/o tax) then check the trade in value here and KBB for your truck, then see if you are upside down or not (taking into account the condition of the truck) based on the trade numbers and your buyout. If you are not, then you can look to trade now. If you are upside down, but close then maybe a few more months will get you right side up?
You should have filed a claim with your insurance when your truck was damaged and gotten it repaired. With my company, vandalism is cover with $0 deductible (no matter what your deductible is normally).
Dennis
Dennis
Just started looking at the Volvo S60 yesterday. Without even asking, the sales manager offered to take $5,000 off if leased, and $3,000 off if purchased on a T5 with a MSRP of $38,000. I was just looking at the car and he made this offer. Surprised the heck out of me!
Thank you again for your help. You provide a very valuable service and take the mystery out of leasing.
Something to consider when leasing beyond the warranty period: Extended Warranties. The price of them are usually negoitiable and any unused portion is usually prorated. The trick is to buy them at the last possible moment and then sell them when you turn the lease back in. This is typically what I do ... piece of mind and all that.
The money you put down to get a lower payment will not be given back to you. Just like buying a car with a loan, this just reduces the amount you owe so the payments are lower.
Most folks agree that paying much, if anything down on a lease is not a good idea. If you car was stolen or "totalled" in a crash the insurance would pay of the lease bank and you would lose all the money you put into the lease. A better idea is to limit yourself to what you can afford - or take your extra money and keep it in your savings account and use it to help make the payments if you need to.
Dennis
Thanks for your response. I do have AHFS as the lease bank. The problem with the $1500 of wear and tear that they don't tell you is that no one scratch or damaged area can cost more than $500 to repair. You get $1500 total as long as everything is under $500 to fix. So if my bumper is $800 to fix or the keyed door, then it no longer is covered under the $1500 wear and tear policy. I found that little clause in my papers when I was looking at them not too long ago.
Another quick question, is my buyout price different from the dealer price? The salesman I spoke with told me they got a "special dealer buyout price" Is that true or is the price the same? Thanks again.
I have an 2002 Accord coming off lease at the end of this month and am looking at the Highlander or Pilot as a replacement. Can you provide me with the May MF and Residuals for:
1) Honda Pilot EX (no Leather)
2) Toyota Highlander AWD/V6 (not Limited)
State of purchase is New Jersey, lease will be 36 mo, 12,000/yr. Also, my understanding is that TFS does something weird when calculating the residual, as in using the base MSRP plus 28% of the MSRP of options?
Thanks,
Zed
Can you please provide the MF and residual for 2005 Lexus GX470 and Volvo XC90 V8? Both with Nav and rear entertainment if that makes a difference. Term is for 36 months 12k miles per year located in NJ. If either has attractive 39 or 42 month offers, please note that as well.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Peter
Seems like if the bumper cost to repair was $800 then you would just owe $300 - since they would forgive the first $500. But that might be my interpretation of it....
I would get the actual itemized buy out cost from the bank. No tax is due if you get a dealer to buy it (outright or as a trade in). After each payment is credited get another buy out itemized quote. Then you know for sure where you stand.
I have been told the AHFS does not negotiate the buyout price at lease end, but will accept an offer by the turn in dealer - this could be less than the buy out offer. Nothing says they have to take it, however.
Normally the dealer just wants you to take a new car off their hands, so a lot will tell you about anything to do so - even quoting a "special price" if the mood strikes them.
Get the real number and compare to the value of the truck. Even with the damage, I think you posted it had low miles. Then, at least, if you do trade in you will know how much is going to pay off the old truck and nothing will be hidden from you.
Dennis
Thanks
An
- Thanks for the Saab numbers!
MSRP : 35,690 which includes some options.
Here's the informaton he gave me
Vehicle Cost : $33,695.00
MF . 2.2 (.0022???)
Residual: 57% ($20,343.30)
Mileage: 10,000/yr, He will give me back my 500 security deposit, but i can use it also in downpayment.
Due on signing is $1,000 as I asked for which have reduction cap cost of $138.
Monthly is $519/mo.
IS THIS A GOOD DEAL? or do you think they will allow me to negotiate 2,000 less of the vehicle cost. I would like to have less than 500/mo without changing my $1,000 due on signing.
Please advise.
Thank you very much!
Jun
You can get around this by using a dealer or car broker to handle the paperwork for a "nominal fee". You buy the car from the dealer, they buy the car from the lease bank (with your friend's permission) and no extra tax has to be paid. I did this with my BMW 330i that was coming off lease, it worth more than the buyout price so I sold it. I paid about $300 for the transaction to the dealer, which included overnight fees (the buyer was in a different city) and temporary tags.
Dennis
The residual should be 58%, I think. 57% is right for 3/36k. The buy rate money factor is 0.00200 so the dealer has jacked that up by 0.0002 (0.48%) for extra profit.
With an MSRP of $35,690 the invoice should be around $33,100 AND there is a $4,000 dealer incentive on this car - so $33,695 is too much to pay. Getting it for invoice would still net the dealer a lot of profit.
Does the $519/mo include taxes? Since the payment on just the car w/o fees or cap cost reduction is $489.76 . There should be a security deposit (maybe) the lease acq fee, and first month's payment. Looks like they may have hidden some more profit in the cap cost, since I have to raise it to $34,695 to get that payment w/o tax.
I would think you could do better on the price on the car, and ask them to give you the buy rate on the lease.
Dennis
Do you have the numbers for the 2006 ml 350 yet? What is the residual on it after 12K for three years, and what is their tier one money factor?
Was hoping you could provide me with the money factor & residual for the GMC Envoy SLT (not the XL or the Denali). I would be looking at 36 months & 12,000 miles/year, or would be willing to do 39 months/39,000 miles if that worked out a little better. I'm in Chicago, if there's any regional variation. I can work up the lease numbers, but need the money factor & residual to get started.
Help is sincerely appreciated!!!
1. Is it better for me to turn the leased car into the original dealer and close that lease out or trade the car into the new dealer I am purchasing the new car through?
2. Is it too early, or better yet, will I lose out on money if I did this transaction now or within the month, or should I wait as long as I can before purchasing this new car?
Jeff
1. Do the money factor or residual change at all b/t Laredo and Limited? I assume not, but figured I'd ask.
2. You talked about a $1000 bonus for going through Chrysler Financial. That extra grand is available for people who lease as well?
Thanks a lot.
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As for the A4, we want to lease a 2005 A4 2.0T Quattro, and for the A6, we want to lease a 2005 A6 3.2 Quattro.
Thanks for your help, as always !!
You are correct. When I checked it earlier (here on Edmunds) it showed $4,000 for both the 330xi and the 325xi, now it shows $1,500 which sounds like the proper number. The dealer is STILL trying to rip that man/woman off, just not as bad
Dennis
Could you help me out on the may 2 year 15k lease #'s for an Infiniti m35 (with nav) and the Lexus GS300 (with nav). Thanks a bunch--and congrats on having over 20,000 posts on this forum.