Dodge Dakota Accessories and Modifications

ethuresson · May 2002

mtrialsm, I have had the fold-a-cover for a little over a year now. I wouldn't own anything else. I remove it myself when hauling large items, 2 screws, I believe. Easy for 1 person to handle. They don't claim water-tightness, but mine has not leaked more than, literally, a couple of drops. This cover is secure and convenient, my only minor gripe is when putting the thing back on, you need to get it aligned just 'so' for the front and back locks to engage correctly. Still looks new. Highly recommended.

stnick · May 2002

I had a pace edwards roll top cover on my 00 QC for about 2 years. When I traded for my 02 QC I let the roll top go with the truck. I found out about the Fold a Cover on the internet,(at work we sell truck accs locally), got signed up as a dealer for them, and ordered a couple of them, 1 for my Dakota. Everyone has different needs,and both covers are nice, but I like the fold a cover better than the roll top. It is more water tight and doesn't take up any room at the front of the bed. Also it is a 4 panel design even for the 5'3 QC bed. The other folding covers I looked at are only 2 panels for the QC. It is, as ethuresson said, easy to remove, and it secures your tailgate so you don't have to buy a tailgate lock if you don't want to. You can go to their web site to have a look if you havn't done so yet at www.foldacover.com. Good luck, Nick.

bristolview · July 2002

I'm trying to decide what liner to get for my QC. I've heard bad things about the insert liners, that they scratch and wear the paint off and hold moisture under them, both things that cause the bed to rust out. I've been looking at the local shops, and all the locals seem to only offer the RhinoLiner spray in liner, but that's like $500!? I can get the Dodge supplied insert liner for only $200, and they (and some local truck accessory companies) claim that the paint and moisture issues have been solved and not to worry about it. What do you guys out there think? Any advice you can offer?

bristolview · July 2002

I'm looking for a small and basic camper for the bed of my QC. Nothing too much, just basic shelter. I'm an outdoor photographer, so I often have to wait at a location for that 'perfect' light which might be in the morning or evening, so I need somewhere without bugs to hide out and have a cup of coffee. A trailer doesn't really work, as many of the roads I use require 4x4, and many aren't really roads actually... more like trails. That's why the truck camper seems like a nice fit. Anybody know of one that would fit on this small pickup bed? Thanks.

gregp5 · July 2002

I have the Linex liner in my truck and yeah it is on the expensive side, but during the last year it was installed it one of those things that every time you use it you kind of think, "That Was Money Well Spent." As for the cap, I dont have one, but I know some of the guys here have A.R.E. caps and seem to be very happy with them.

Good Luck

bcarter3 · July 2002

I've got a Pendaliner drop in with a chaffe shield under it. It is a thin rubber sheet. I have a drop in on a '89 Mitsubishi that has rubbed some of the paint off but the rusting has been minimal. I wanted a spray in but the issue was the application. If it is not done right the damage is difficult to correct. I looked at several trucks that were sprayed and they looked really bad. In other words, the spray in liner material may be high quality but the guy with the spray gun determines what the result will be. Good luck, Dick

furrydog1 · July 2002

I've had a Line-x for 6 months on my '02 QUAD and love it! It was $400 but as Greg5 said, it was money well spent. I have loaded 1800 lbs (yes I know, I overloaded it ) of 1" washed rock and no dings. 2 weeks ago I made 6 trips loading 200 pound flagstone and no problems. Luckily the guy that put mine on did a great job. If you get the Line-x, I would definitely do it over the rails.

mtrialsm · July 2002

Fold-a-cover;
stnick; how is the fold-a-cover installed?
Does it have a "frame"? Do I need to drive holes?
You can e-mail me direct, if you can give me a
good price?
trialsmm@hotmail.com

thanks,
mick

bobs5 · July 2002

I have the Bedrug bedliner in my truck. No problems.
Also have the ARE CH model cap. No problems.

ethuresson · July 2002

There is an 'L' angle frame that mounts to top of bed rails; is supposed to be riveted. I paid someone to install mine since if they screwed up they would be liable, if I screwed up well, I'da been screwed. (plus no garage or rivet gun with storm a comin', I didn't want to wait to get my new toy installed on my new toy..)

Anyway, my installer only used two rivets and some wicked adhesive to secure the rails.

The cover is GREAT, very versatile..

Oh, and just for kicks, 11.5k miles and no problems on my 01 4.7 4wd auto except it's insatiable thirst for fuel. Good thing the other car gets 45mpg, LOL! (VW TDi)

stnick · July 2002

Mick, I e-mailed you, but just in case,I will answer your mounting question here also. Our Dakotas Fold-a-cover rails are adhesive backed from the factory, and after cleaning the box rail area with rubbing alcohol, you position the rails on the truck, position the cover on the rails, align and center the complete assembly, mark the rail position with masking tape, remove the cover, and re position the rails to your tape marks. Then pull the protective tape strips off of the rails while holding them in place. The tailgate strip is done first, then the side rails.You must be very acurate on the position,as they use very good tape, once stuck, you can't remove them without ruining the tape. Nick

mtrialsm · July 2002

Thanks for info on fold-a-cover. I'm saving my pennys!
My 2001 Dakota,2wd, 4.7,auto,SLT,lim-slip,Quad
has 14,100 miles. No problems other than popping
front end/steering colume, side molding is coming
loose, cold starts are becoming a problem (hesitation). I'm making a list then take it to
my dealer in a few months?
Before 3 year warrenty runs out, I'll be looking to extend the warrenty to 7yr/75k miles.
I've been running AmsOil 5w-30 syth. Change the filter (AmsOil) at 5k and the oil at 10k. Will be going synth. in trans/rear end soon. (AmsOil)
I've got Bosch plat-4s in motor.
mm

bpeebles · July 2002

This is a pointer if you are interested in my experience with these. I thought that shock absorbers may be construed as "accessories"

bpeebles "Dodge Dakota Owners - Maintenance Topic" Jul 14, 2002 10:46pm

chasp · July 2002

Hello, I just went over 30K on my 01 quad,SLT+ 4.7L,4x4, LSD, AWD, Line-X and Access Cover. I am happy to say I have had no problems with my truck. The scratched and cracked fog lights finally stopped working. They look pretty bad and I am suprised they lasted as long as they did. Does anyone have suggestions for a high quality easy replacement set? Thanks.
Chas

tuvtest · July 2002

Piaa. They have several that will fit in the factory holes. Additionaly, they offer a bracket to mount their lights to the factory mounts. I've used Piaa lights for years and have never been disappointed. They can be pricy but they are worth it.

spike50 · July 2002

Maybe the garage I go to for the truck's required annual inspection (Pennsylvania) is a bit over the top but they won't pass my truck with the aftermarket fog lights (Catz) because the lights don't have DOT approval numbers stamped on the housings. So, for me, I have to take them off, get the truck inspected, then put them back on - once a year.

Just saying to check it out before you spend $200+ bucks like I did. BTW - the Catz fog lights are great and really yellow.

chasp · July 2002

Thank you for your replies tuvtest and spike50. Do these lights work with the factory switch on the headlight knob? Thanks

tuvtest · July 2002

I know the Piaa comes with a harness and switch to install seperatly, but the lights can be wired to the factory wiring as well. The change in wattage should not cause concern. The factory lights are rated at 35 watts and any light (from Piaa anyway)that will fit into the facia holes are rated at 55 watts (actual electric draw). I wouldn't go much higher than that using factory wiring. I don't have experience with the Katz lights.

spike50 · July 2002

These are 55W also (very bright) and I have them wired up separately but there's a story. I didn't order the factory fogs originally so the main light switch is incapable of handling the "only on low beams" function required for fogs operation in Pennsylvania. Here in PA, driving lights can only operate while the vehicle has its high beams on.

Again, maybe the garage I use for inspections is going overboard on its interpretation of the rules. The logical is sound but ...

spike50 · July 2002

Sometime in 2003, I'll need to replace the Goodyear RT/S 31x10.5-15 tires. Since I don't do "extreme" 4-wheeling in this truck, I've been exploring "Plus-Sizing" the wheels up to 17x9's (size on the Dak R/T) or maybe even 18's. Although the Dak R/T rides on a P255/55R-17 street tire with a 1,800 to 1,900 pound load capacity, I'd be looking at something with a more aggressive tread from Toyo or Nitto. Because of the Dak's small wheel wells (front especially), the overall diameter would have to be no bigger than the existing 31x10.5-15 package. Any thoughts?

bpeebles · July 2002

(spike50) The September 2002(Volume28 Number9) issue of "Truckin" magazine is dedicated to the wheel/tire subject.

There are a lot of tips and hints about "plus sizing" including the math involved to maintain the overall diamator within 1 inch.

You may wish to pick up a copy for yourself.

spike50 · July 2002

Recently purchased (less than $30 w/ S/H) and will be returning a tailgate lock made by BULLY (part # LH 005) for 1997 to present Daks. Although it is a quality made product and my problem-solving conversations with both the vendor and the manufacturer were always positive, the lock's design is inadequate to prevent the tailgate from opening when its supposed to be locked. A case of "one design NOT fitting all applications".

spike50 · July 2002

bpeebles - I do have that issue of Truckin' (Energy Suspension bushings pictured on page 222) and wanted to point out that I have checked out some of the websites that have size conversion "calculators". I found out that these are mainly designed for car tire sizes and don't allow you to start with any of the flotation sizes, e.g. 31x10.5-15.

The one example of a sharp-looking 4-wheel type tire conversion (page 209) appears to be erroneous. The caption states that the starting size is a 33x10.5-15LT. The tire diameter doesn't match up with that section width. Anyway, the plus-sized combo looks great and uses a TOYO LT325/60R-18 on a 18x10 wheel and basically maintains the same overall diameter as the original. This 18" combo appears to have enough tire side-wall to handle anything that I would throw at it.

I've tried to cross-check the LT325/60-18's size by going to the TOYO website. They have it listed but don't have its dimensional specs but NITTO's LT325/60-18 has a 33" diameter.

spike50 · July 2002

Thanks to our friends to the North (Canada) where DRL's are required, I've found a manufacturer and its state-side vendor for a quality aftermarket DRL module (less than $30). I have to do a little more reconnaissance work under the hood and with the manufacturer before starting the project. After I've got it working, I'll post the vendor, wire colors, under-the-hood connection points, etc. for anyone who wants to do this. BTW - The original wiring diagram is very basic and non-specific (3"x5" card) let alone anything for a '00 Dak. To fill in the gaps, I've called and am now using e-mail to dialogue with the manufacture. This has been positive so far.

bpeebles · July 2002

(spike50) I too have the 31x10.5-15 tires and find the selection of replacements limited. I reciently spoke to a tire distributor that told me that the 31x10.5-15 is VERY close to a 'standard' sized tire (Pxxx/xx-15). I cannot recall the numbers he gave me :-(

Perhaps if you can determine this 'standard' tire size that matches the 31x10.5-15. You could then work from there.

In any case, unless you constantly carry 100s of lbs of weight in your truck, I would recommend you go with a "P"assenger-rated tire instead of a "LT" (Light Truck) rated one. The LT tires have very stiff sidewall to handle weight but this gives a harsh ride.

The "P" tires will handle the occasional trip with weight in the truck. Just add pressure to the tires and drive easy.

I know I will be going with a "P" rated tire when I replace mine. A softer ride is higher on my priorities than being able to haul a load of gravel 100s of miles.

spike50 · July 2002

Would someone look under your hood and locate your Daytime Running Light Module. BOB says it is located right around the battery. How many wires are in the plug that attaches to it? Is there just the one plug or are there two? Please note if you have fog lights or not and the model year of your Dak. Thanks

ron35 · July 2002

I have placed an order for the amplified version of the MTX Thunderform woofers which replace the tray under the rear seat of the my 2K Dak CC. I have the premium sound system and plan on keeping the head unit and Mopar (Alpine) CD changer which I am happy with. I have replaced the front and rear speakers so I have some experience in this area. Can anyone out there pass on any installation or operation tips for the MTX?

Ron35

mrjake · August 2002

Hey Ron35, I have been interested in purchasing a thunderform as well but have not heard first hand how well they perform in the Dakota CC. I have the infinity system without the changer. replaced the stock head-unit with a Kenwood, but everything else is still stock. I have a four-way mtx amp ready to go but wanted some feedback on the thunderform before I committed to ordering the spendy unit. Please post back and let us know how well it fits and if it sounds good.

ron35 · August 2002

mrjake - I have heard from several people on the Dakota Mailing List who have the MTX Subs and they all had rave reviews. The order I sent in for mine had a personal check so I will have to wait till it clears; I was not in a big hurry because our temperatures in the northern VA area have been in the mid nineties lately (seems like forever) and I am not going to attempt an install in that kind of heat. I did an exhaustive search for the MTX subs and the best price I found for the MTX enclosures were at http://nexxon.com/mtx/thunderform.htm They beat Crutchfield by $110 plus they had free shipping.

Ron35

spike50 · August 2002

I've successfully installed the DRL module and now have my low beams running at about 75% of full strength whenever the engine is running. I'm still not satisfied or finished with all of the wiring such as the cut-out when you put on the parking brake. Once I'm finished, I'll respond to anyone interested.

Being the safety conscience "weenie" that I am, its nice not having to remember to turn the head lights on or off. I'd hate having this truck wrecked because someone didn't see it coming and pulled out.

mailman54 · August 2002

Don, are you kidding??? You believe that because they can see you coming, they won't pull out in front of you? They will look you right in the eye and then pull out right in front of you! I had it happen many times on my motorcycle with daytime running lights. Lots of luck!!!

spike50 · August 2002

I agree that motorcycles are a different breed of cat. I currently ride a 1981 BMW R100 with the headlight permanent on. So far no problems but I'm always cautious. I read an AMA article last year that demonstrated car drivers just don't see mc's like they do other cars / trucks - just doesn't register in the brain for some reason.

Anyway, I wanted the DRL's on my Light Driftwood truck, which at times, blends into the color of the roadway. I know that I more easily see cars with DRL's so I wanted that for myself. No guarantees, just do what you can to improve the odds.

ahasher · August 2002

Well I was wondering if anyone has upgraded the stock low wattage plastic driving lights with real lights that actually are useful, since I commute mostly in the dark (yeah, long days!). Anyway I remember some PIAA refrences a while back, but they are kinda $$, however the quality is obvious.
My main concern is 1. better output and 2. (of course) bolting to stock position.

ahasher · August 2002

but.. I have had success. Took the time to review previous posts on the fog/driving lights. Looks like PIAA and CATZ (excellent idea to home brew the mounting bracket) are the only brands tested so far. Sadly PIAA at $230 and CATZ at around $200 are kind of pricey for me after my brake redo .. hey! take alot of beer to do that kind of work (mopar67).
ANYWAY make an impromptu stop at my local truck topper dealer and low and behold.. they have an after market light replacement kit. Made for DODGE air dam OEM replacement (they had RAM too), crystal lens, solid casing - H3 halogen bulb, wire harness and switch ( I have the factory wire and switch so it's lagniappe) and a mounting bracket adapter for the mount. 3.5 or 4 inch round diameter - whatever the OEM size is, I have to go back to be sure since I will be buying it today or tomorrow so i didnt open the box.
Now the best part - $89. They sell PIAA so i will compare quality of construction when I go to examine and buy, Then upgrade to PIAA H3 high output bulbs . Oh yeah they even sell the fog ION Crystal lens for the FOG use.. cant beat that

UPDATE on brakes and anti sway. brakes QUIET and solid.. seating nicely.. rust/dust? not a hint of either and we have had rain every day here. Sharp turns silent and smooth. no popping from the sway mounts..

spike50 · August 2002

ahasher - sounds like you've come into a good string of luck. Although I'm now commitment ($200) to Catz, I would like to hear more about the $89 option.

Speaking about lights - Over the last two years, people have asked about going from the stock 55W headlamp bulb up to a 80W / 100W bulb. Anyone actually try it? What happened? Did the extra wattage / heat melt the headlamp reflector as some postulated?

iowabigguy · August 2002

spike50, I installed the PIAA 9007 super white replacement bulbs right after I got my 2000 Quad. Still burning bright going on 2 1/2 years with no ill effects. I've been considering replacing my factory fogs with the PIAA driving lights but I too have been put off by the high price. I have been toying with another idea. Leave the fogs in place and install a pair of rectangular driving lamps in the opening below the bumper. It looks like it may work, have to study it a little longer yet to see how feasible it is. I'll keep the group informed if I do go that route. Rick

spike50 · August 2002

iowabigguy - Were you the one that put on an aftermarket Dak. nose piece? If you did, then your available space might be different than ours. Anyway, I think the more light the better as long as I'm looking into it. My eyes are getting worst in my old age.

Glad to hear that there isn't any meltdowns with the higher wattage lights.

ahasher · August 2002

Going tomorrow (Fri) after work to get the new driving lights. 4" OEM diameter. I also put in PIAA 9007 High Output Extreme White headlight bulbs last year much better and no problems with heat. So...With my $89 aftermarket lens/casing and upgraded PIAA bulbs I should have a clean OEM install and USEFUL set of lights. Hmmm. Im thinking 2 beers per light and 1 per bulb upgrade..

dodgetrukn · August 2002

Didn't believe it, still kind of don't but..ran through 2 full tanks of gas after muffler was bolted on..and mileage up from ~ 15.8-16.5 original to 17.54-17.846 MPG !! Driving 20-35% highway miles and the rest driving in town, to work (22miles), etc..actual miles/gallons at pump as I don't have mileage puter.. Has nice sound, not roaring,,,a little sound increase inside cab, and when off the gas/mash petal, the truck glides a lot longer...of course making me use the brakes more to slow/stop as I let the truck slow itself down when off the petal when I can.
Anyway, $105 at pep boys, 65$ install at meinicke. 65$ included extension piece needed as new muff is 23", old muff is 28", clamps.. Took em 18 mins total, then I went home, had 2 beers, and called it a 2 beer job. Ger.

spike50 · August 2002

dodgetrukn - Are you saying that you just changed the muffler (plus adding the extension piece) and continued to use the OEM tailpipe? I'm hoping that this is the case. I've often thought that the muffler was the main restriction point in the existing system and not the tailpipe (why replace it if its not broke).

Has anyone else just changed the muffler, say with a Gibson, Borla, etc., and kept on using the OEM tailpipe?

dodgetrukn · August 2002

Yes, Spike50, The muffler was the only modification. I used all existing OEM pipes including the original tailpipe. Ger

sunburn · August 2002

I'm getting ready to install an electric brake controller on my 02 QC. After looking under the dash, I noticed that the brake light switch has 6 wires coming out of it. I read on another website that the white wire with the tan stripe was the brake light wire. Before I start splicing wires, I just wanted to confirm this. Thanks.

ritzoid · August 2002

I replaced my stock muffler with a magnaflow and retained all the rest of the stock piping. I've been very pleased with the sound. Regards, Steve

ahasher · August 2002

I had an interesting time with my lights this weekend. First NO lights.. an unhappy Bill. The truck shop was out of the clear driving light for my Dak after all and they had to order them for me. They had the same in fog(amber) but I wanted clear. Since I had to work anyway I didnt feel too bad on not getting them.
Sooooo surfing a bit over the weekend I made a discovery:
THE SAME lights (PILOT brand by the way) are offered by AutoZone for $57 - special order only tho. I checked the part # on my truck shop receipt with AutoZone - the same:

PILOT PL-119C $57.99

The amber set they had looked of good quality, not factory switch of course but a quite good one - not the typical rocker but a solid enclosed pod for on/off. Mounting is adaptable for DAk mounts. NOTE that these are 4 inch exact replacements that fit the air dam openings.

Anyone looking to replace OEM with better crystal lens/H3 bulbs check it out. Im getting one of each color since I want to switch to fog as needed. Also with the $$ savings I can get 85W H3 bulbs too.

stay tuned..

ahasher · August 2002

are IN.. going to go get them tomorrow. Had an idea over a beer; get Both the driving (100W H3 upgrade) and the FOG/amber. Install the fog in the opening just inside of the air dam fog openings (2000 model air dam). A test fit says this will work. Wire so using the new Pilot on/off switch changes from the driving to FOG using factory wires at the OEM openings. I believe this will look good as the lights are uniform in style, and level to each other. I want one or the other not BOTH so the switch works for me with minimal additional wiring. The amber are $62 and in stock. I am getting a digital camera to post install pix on my DAK page.
stay tuned.

p.s. why is it so quiet here?

ahasher · August 2002

so here goes. Driving light install finished. HUGE difference in output.. with PIAA 55/85w upgrade.. who needs the headlights (PIAA 9007).
But the installation was anything but simple.
Highlights: Pilot PL-119C 4 inch replacement lights. came with a mount bracket for DAK frame. after a couple of hours of attempts to find the right angle. I gave up.. The included bracket works but allows for light vibration and somewhat poor alignment in the air dam hole.
SOLUTION: got to looking at the removed OEM setup. GOOD bracket/housing combo with alignment screw etc.. USELESS light/lens. Hmm do i see a way around this? yep - remove the OEM plastic lens, trim the lip around the OEM light casing (remove from bracket first) disassemble the new light. The Pilot glass lens/H3 bulb assy fits almost perfectly in the OEM housing.. Took the pilot plastic housing and trimmed the back out. basically making it a sleeve with the mount holes intact. mate the new lens inside the OEM housing snug but fits. run the new wires out the back of the OEM housing (old bulb removed) slip the new trimmed sleeve over the assembly and screw into place. The screws hold the Pilot hardware together but secures it to the OEM piece very well.. Nice and tight.. LOOKS FACTORY. now the best part = took the 899 (#?) bulb and pulled the terminals out leaving the keyed socket with holes in the middle. Ran the new H3 wires thru the modified socket which mates to the OEM housing making a weather tight seal, used the Pilot gasket to seal the other end. Perfect match!
Now I have a hybrid OEM/Pilot assy now.. reinstall in original place, use original alignment screws to adjust and DONE! exact, and I mean exact match to the air dam hole and looks great!

Dig pix will be posted on my DAK page my Sat showing up close hybrid light assy.

Finished up by installing PILOT 720 projection fog lights. but thats another long post...

bpeebles · August 2002

(ahasher) I have a few questions on your upgrade...

Are the Pilot PL-119C 4 inch replacement lights FOG LIGHTS?

Do the Pilot PL-119C 4 inch replacement lights come in YELLOW? (I find YELLOW fog lights are superiouer for driving at night in a snowstorm)

Are you powering the higher-wattage bulbs with the factory wiring? (No relay to provide direct battery power to bulbs?)

ahasher · August 2002

I had alot of fun modifying the assembly, so thanks for asking. I will put my pix on my DAK page shortly as soon as I have a moment to download from the dig camera..
1-they are PILOT 4 inch lenses in BOTH clear and AMBER (fog) FOG part number is PL-119B. I installed the clear, which actually arent clea they have the refraction ridges in the inside like the headlights do.. so they look alike.
2- As i said, they offer FOG and driving.. however I got another model FOG projection lights in addition to these. (4 lights in the air dam)
3- I have 55w H3 where PIAA says 55=85. I was not comfortable with 100w since I did in fact use factory wiring/switch. Only the FOGs used the PILOT harness and fuses/switch.

I appreciate your asking and hope I gave you the right info you wanted.. LOL.. as i tend to ramble these days

I'l make an effort to get those pix posted.. close-ups of the before/after lights and basic installation shots..

P.S. it was a 6-pk job with a DRAFT/hotwing reward after

mopar67 · August 2002

what better way to describe jobs/projects in terms of how many beers it takes!
ANyway, its more fun than cost analysis and tastes better too!

tuvtest · August 2002

I'd love to see the set-up, what is the address of your page?

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