Comcast is one of the worst. I think they actually sell your number to these guys the moment they set it up! We have a company in Ohio that is a sub of Comcast, and my wife would never answer the phone when I called because of that. So, we set up a call screening thing on the phone that does a surprisingly effective job of filtering the junk calls. Of course, it probably filters about half of the calls that we want to get, but you gotta take your wins where you can get them!
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I don't know how most any of these scams actually work but it seems to be a growth industry, from the number of faked text messages and automated voice mails I get that are telling me companies I've never done business with want to send me money if only I press 1 or click here. The robocalls are so bad I have essentially stopped answering the landline.
I'd imagine they will pressure you to send a deposit by venmo to hold it because so many people are interested.
Small victories. Radiator on Mustang has been leaking more and more lately, although not a lot. It's supposed to transported to OH in the next few days, so I thought I'd try to patch it up by putting some more stop leak in it. Did that a few years ago. Told the transport company that it had a small coolant leak so don't put it above other cars, just in case. The overflow bottle was full but it would get hot the more I drove it. Put in some Bars Stop Leak with some pellets and water pump lube in it. Bottle did say to refresh once a year. Maybe the old stuff just wore out. Drove it for half an hour after dumping it the Bars. Didn't seem to get hot as fast, but needle was still higher than I was comfortable with. When I got home I heard a bunch of gurgling and after it cooled off I checked the radiator. It was noticeably down. Thinking the thermostat has been stuck and opened up. This morning I added more coolant and drove it again. No leaks noted. Removed the radiator cap cleaned up that area and noticed overflow hole was completely closed with corrosion. Took a zip tie and cleaned out the hole and hose, then sprayed some canned compressed air in it. A bit later put a paper towel over the hole for the overflow and stuck the straw for the compressed air through it. Pressure blew off the hose from the radiator. Topped off the radiator and drove it again. No leaks. Temp was pretty normal and overflow bottle started working. Topped it off again and I'll drive it tomorrow.
2024 Ford F-150 STX, 2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
Small victories. Radiator on Mustang has been leaking more and more lately, although not a lot. It's supposed to transported to OH in the next few days, so I thought I'd try to patch it up by putting some more stop leak in it. Did that a few years ago. Told the transport company that it had a small coolant leak so don't put it above other cars, just in case. The overflow bottle was full but it would get hot the more I drove it. Put in some Bars Stop Leak with some pellets and water pump lube in it. Bottle did say to refresh once a year. Maybe the old stuff just wore out. Drove it for half an hour after dumping it the Bars. Didn't seem to get hot as fast, but needle was still higher than I was comfortable with. When I got home I heard a bunch of gurgling and after it cooled off I checked the radiator. It was noticeably down. Thinking the thermostat has been stuck and opened up. This morning I added more coolant and drove it again. No leaks noted. Removed the radiator cap cleaned up that area and noticed overflow hole was completely closed with corrosion. Took a zip tie and cleaned out the hole and hose, then sprayed some canned compressed air in it. A bit later put a paper towel over the hole for the overflow and stuck the straw for the compressed air through it. Pressure blew off the hose from the radiator. Topped off the radiator and drove it again. No leaks. Temp was pretty normal and overflow bottle started working. Topped it off again and I'll drive it tomorrow.
Overheating and low coolant says head gasket to me but it could also be a clogged radiator from the stop leak. I had a leaky radiator on an old clunker van which I fixed with Bars. I half expected it to clog things up but it didn’t. Got lucky I guess.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
@oldfarmer50, No overheating just warmer than normal. I think it was due to a stuck thermostat. Coolant couldn't get back to the radiator. Thank god it's iron block and heads.
2024 Ford F-150 STX, 2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
@oldfarmer50, No overheating just warmer than normal. I think it was due to a stuck thermostat. Coolant couldn't get back to the radiator. Thank god it's iron block and heads.
Perhaps once you get situated at the new house, time to flush the system of all that goo, replace the thermostat and determine and fix what is leaking. Your Mustang sounds like it is too nice of a car to just band aid and hope for the best.
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
@sda, The car could get picked up as early as tomorrow for transport to OH, so I don't want to go too crazy. Just needs to get on the hauler and back off. Would feel bad if it leaked on some other vehicles while being transported. Will continue fixing it up some time after we move.
2024 Ford F-150 STX, 2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
Out not long after sunrise this morning - with a forecast high of 103 today and 105 tomorrow, this is not an afternoon car. Started smoothly this morning after being idle for 6 days, and started almost a little too quickly once warmed up - I "ground" the starter a couple times as I am used to it taking a few cycles to get going when warm. Enjoying it now, as winter is always on the horizon:
The Cougar guy spins a good yarn, but he lost me right off the top with the story about Iacocca being in Moncton for the opening of a deep sea port. Moncton is on a shallow, silty river and that’s about it. The nearest seaport is Saint John, NB but I can find no reference to any Ford facility there.
Have you cross shopped used cars on craigslist with other websites/apps? What would you say is the ratio of people that post their car on 2 or more sites/locations vs. going exclusive?
Will you find Facebook cars on Craigslist and vice versa?
'18 Porsche Macan Turbo, '16 Audi TTS, Wife's '19 VW Tiguan SEL 4-Motion
Marketplace is so awful. And what kills me is that I was not allowed to advertise a wheelchair. Some kind of rule against that. Scams are OK, but a "medical device" is right out.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Have you cross shopped used cars on craigslist with other websites/apps? What would you say is the ratio of people that post their car on 2 or more sites/locations vs. going exclusive?
Will you find Facebook cars on Craigslist and vice versa?
When Craig's started charging, it killed it around here (Long Island). Just used car lots on there now
That 90’ F-150 is just like my 85’ longbed that I bought in 1997 for $1500. I don’t recognize that engine. It isn’t the straight 6 or the old 5.0 that my truck had.
I’ve sold several cars on Craigslist. I don’t use Facebook for anything. Does a $5 ad charge really chase private sellers away? I’ve heard many horror stories about Marketplace.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Might be a sign of insanity, I saw this on a "auto archaeology" page, a Charger 500 that has been sitting outisde for decades, pics taken 20 years apart. I thought "and tell me more about the Tempo" (which I am sure was crushed ages ago):
Might be a sign of insanity, I saw this on a "auto archaeology" page, a Charger 500 that has been sitting outisde for decades, pics taken 20 years apart. I thought "and tell me more about the Tempo" (which I am sure was crushed ages ago):
Wow, thats a shame. I guess when it was parked, it was just an old car
I know I've told this story before, but a friend off mine once had an '82 Cutlass Supreme sedan with the 260. I never drove it, but had ridden in it a few times. At the time, I had my Mom's old '86 Monte Carlo 305. One night, we did a little drag race out on the highway and, while the Monte was naturally faster, the Cutlass kept up better than I thought it would.
It seemed okay for most normal, everyday driving, but I imagine after getting used to newer and faster cars, it would seem like a torture chamber by today's standards! The one 0-60 time I've seen quoted for a downsized Cutlass was by Consumer Guide, around 1981 or so, and they had it at something like 18.0 seconds. Funny thing, Consumer Reports had tested a Colonade '77 Cutlass sedan with the 260, and got something like 21.6 seconds. I'd think that losing close to 1000 lb would improve the time more than that. But, they most likely hobbled the downsized cars by giving them a taller economy axle ratio.
For that price you could probably get a 1993 Mark VIII with the 4.6L 4 valve. 75 more horsepower and no blown head gaskets.
True, but lots of complicated systems to fail on that too.
Biggest failure point was the air ride. Any survivors would probably have had the air shocks converted. Other than that you’d face various part failures like any old car.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Based on what Ive read the 260 was weak, smooth, fairly economical and long lasting. The 231 V6, about the same performance but not as long lasting.
I do recall the 3.8s having a real reputation for being here today gone tomorrow. More than 1 person would tell me that it was running completely fine and just blew.
My understanding of the 231 is that it had a lot of narrow oil passages with right angles, that were easily clogged. It was also a very lightweight block, so it was fragile. It was also a "deep skirt" design, where the walls of the block extend well below the centerline of the crankshaft. Normally that's considered a bonus, as it would make the block stronger, but despite that, the block was still a bit thin and fragile. An added bonus was that nylon mesh timing gear, or whatever they called it, although I think that was an issue with a lot of GM engines at the time, and not unique to the 231.
When the turbo version came out in the late 70's, it used a stiffer, sturdier block. For 1985, the 231 got a major overhaul, where they used the turbo block for all applications, and I believe they improved the lubrication/oil passages as well. When people talk about the "3800" being one of GM's best engines ever, they really mean the 1985 and newer versions. Or, perhaps one of the revisions after 1985, as I'm sure it got improved more in later years, although that plastic intake manifold was a step backward.
The 1975-84 versions are pretty much junk, although I'm sure you can still find an occasional example out there that was well maintained. One thing I never could figure out though, is that the Buick 350 was a good, sturdy engine. Its main problem is that it didn't adapt well to emissions controls, so power was down pretty severely in later years, compared to similar-displacement engines. And, it was still too dirty for California, so they banned it in '77. But, both the 231 and the 350 have their roots in the old Buick smallblock from the 60's. In most years, the Buick V6 was just the V8 with two cylinders lopped off. But where they parted company was 1968. Buick sold its V6 tooling to Jeep, and used the Chevy inline-6 for what little demand there was for a 6-cyl Buick.
GM bought the tooling back in the 1970's, boring it out a bit, so that it could use the same pistons as the 350 V8, which brought its displacement to 231 CID. The '67 version had been a 225. But, something must have been done to the engine, between 1967 and 1975, to make it the crap-fest it became.
My 76 Sunbird with the odd firing 231 was reliable and didn't require any type of repair other than regular maintenance. The fact I was OCD with 2-3k oil change probably helped. I increased the idle speed a smidgen which smoothed it and I don't think hurt it other than reduce mpg slightly. I may have dodged a bullet with self destruction as it had 82K when I traded it in 84 for an 80 Mazda 626 coupe.
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
Comments
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We apparently pay for one, but it’s never been activated. Contract up in October and going to redo all the packages I have with Comcast.
2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
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Yes that is the way it was for me too. I’m thinking of cutting things back far enough it may actually make sense not to have it any longer.
We pay for so much stuff we don’t use.
2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic
Radiator on Mustang has been leaking more and more lately, although not a lot.
It's supposed to transported to OH in the next few days, so I thought I'd try to patch it up by putting some more stop leak in it. Did that a few years ago.
Told the transport company that it had a small coolant leak so don't put it above other cars, just in case.
The overflow bottle was full but it would get hot the more I drove it.
Put in some Bars Stop Leak with some pellets and water pump lube in it.
Bottle did say to refresh once a year. Maybe the old stuff just wore out.
Drove it for half an hour after dumping it the Bars.
Didn't seem to get hot as fast, but needle was still higher than I was comfortable with.
When I got home I heard a bunch of gurgling and after it cooled off I checked the radiator.
It was noticeably down. Thinking the thermostat has been stuck and opened up.
This morning I added more coolant and drove it again. No leaks noted.
Removed the radiator cap cleaned up that area and noticed overflow hole was completely closed with corrosion.
Took a zip tie and cleaned out the hole and hose, then sprayed some canned compressed air in it.
A bit later put a paper towel over the hole for the overflow and stuck the straw for the compressed air through it. Pressure blew off the hose from the radiator.
Topped off the radiator and drove it again. No leaks.
Temp was pretty normal and overflow bottle started working.
Topped it off again and I'll drive it tomorrow.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
No overheating just warmer than normal. I think it was due to a stuck thermostat.
Coolant couldn't get back to the radiator.
Thank god it's iron block and heads.
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
The car could get picked up as early as tomorrow for transport to OH, so I don't want to go too crazy.
Just needs to get on the hauler and back off.
Would feel bad if it leaked on some other vehicles while being transported.
Will continue fixing it up some time after we move.
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
Unusual relic
Nunnery
This was for sale last year - probably not a lot of demand. I get a good vibe from this car, I bet it would look really nice with a thorough detail
Same here, looks like a nice car. I bet for this or the Pontiac, show up with 80 Benjamins and you just might be driving it home, lots of car for that money
I could see Adam with this, if it was cheaper
Longterm ownership
Optimism
Don't know if I've ever seen this model/badge before
Diesel automatic
Not a GT, not a V8, seldom seen anymore
Shoebox
Unique, optimistic
1976 in vehicle form
Probably the rarest car on here in terms of survivors, maybe close to a sole survivor with this spec
If this car is legit, price isn't wildly insane given the seller is a dealer
Root beer turbo, nice license plate frame
Another one that needs a thorough detail
Still just a used car for now, but looks like someone cherished it, maybe a fair deal
Many cars in my high school parking lot had those wheels
Grandpa's baby, resale
90s trucks seem to be a thing now
Similar for cheaper
With growing interest in the era as collecting tastes shift, these will be here
90s again, maybe compared to new prices, people like this - would be cool to have a "Twister" tribute truck
Love both red Ford trucks and the black Bronco.
That interior fabric in the 98 Dodge reminds me of what they put into the Neon
76 T-Bird is very equipped. Almost like a Mark
What is 0-60 on the 66 Diesel Benz? 30 seconds?
2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic
Like these Rivs so much more than the boattails I bet that heater core is involved
This GTA shows well when wet Could be a decent driver
Given the current state of things, this 4runner could be decent
AlfaSpider A little paint, a new top, hhhmmmmmmm
Here's another Spider in better shape
300 ZX 3 pedals an T-tops but not turbo
1990 F150 Looks good but all pics are from a distance. Rear main seal will be work
Will you find Facebook cars on Craigslist and vice versa?
Along those lines, CL started charging to ward off scammers, now the scammers are on Marketplace, and there appears to be little control.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I’ve sold several cars on Craigslist. I don’t use Facebook for anything. Does a $5 ad charge really chase private sellers away? I’ve heard many horror stories about Marketplace.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Low mileage claim
High mileage claim
Some sellers need to adjust to the year we're in
"If you ask me questions, you're out" - that would break my heart
Looks like the estate sale Cutlass is being flipped - by the condition I guess the car sat outside or in a dirty barn
Super, getting rare, maybe fair
European, I appreciate the candor
Lots of unobtanium
That's Mister to you
Buuuuuttttt, what's with the exhaust? Missign tips make the rear valence look awful
Agree on the Lumina Euro. If you're looking for a nice car, this aint it. That's classic
I’d take the Super Coupe. Price is fair
2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic
Regarding Candor, it can be funny.
There are several missing pieces in the engine bay(fan shroud being the most obvious) and the fenders don't have the factory vin stickers.
Did the Supercharged 3.8 suffer from head gasket failure like the standard 3.8?
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
Yep.
2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
True, but lots of complicated systems to fail on that too.
2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
It seemed okay for most normal, everyday driving, but I imagine after getting used to newer and faster cars, it would seem like a torture chamber by today's standards! The one 0-60 time I've seen quoted for a downsized Cutlass was by Consumer Guide, around 1981 or so, and they had it at something like 18.0 seconds. Funny thing, Consumer Reports had tested a Colonade '77 Cutlass sedan with the 260, and got something like 21.6 seconds. I'd think that losing close to 1000 lb would improve the time more than that. But, they most likely hobbled the downsized cars by giving them a taller economy axle ratio.
True, but lots of complicated systems to fail on that too.
Biggest failure point was the air ride. Any survivors would probably have had the air shocks converted. Other than that you’d face various part failures like any old car.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
When the turbo version came out in the late 70's, it used a stiffer, sturdier block. For 1985, the 231 got a major overhaul, where they used the turbo block for all applications, and I believe they improved the lubrication/oil passages as well. When people talk about the "3800" being one of GM's best engines ever, they really mean the 1985 and newer versions. Or, perhaps one of the revisions after 1985, as I'm sure it got improved more in later years, although that plastic intake manifold was a step backward.
The 1975-84 versions are pretty much junk, although I'm sure you can still find an occasional example out there that was well maintained. One thing I never could figure out though, is that the Buick 350 was a good, sturdy engine. Its main problem is that it didn't adapt well to emissions controls, so power was down pretty severely in later years, compared to similar-displacement engines. And, it was still too dirty for California, so they banned it in '77. But, both the 231 and the 350 have their roots in the old Buick smallblock from the 60's. In most years, the Buick V6 was just the V8 with two cylinders lopped off. But where they parted company was 1968. Buick sold its V6 tooling to Jeep, and used the Chevy inline-6 for what little demand there was for a 6-cyl Buick.
GM bought the tooling back in the 1970's, boring it out a bit, so that it could use the same pistons as the 350 V8, which brought its displacement to 231 CID. The '67 version had been a 225. But, something must have been done to the engine, between 1967 and 1975, to make it the crap-fest it became.
My 76 Sunbird with the odd firing 231 was reliable and didn't require any type of repair other than regular maintenance. The fact I was OCD with 2-3k oil change probably helped. I increased the idle speed a smidgen which smoothed it and I don't think hurt it other than reduce mpg slightly. I may have dodged a bullet with self destruction as it had 82K when I traded it in 84 for an 80 Mazda 626 coupe.
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech