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I have used the Auto RX which actually does seem to work and it is run over 1500 miles and a very gentle but effective cleaner. I have also used a product made by Schaeffer Oil called Neutra for 500 miles before an oil change, it works well also.
However, if it ain't broke don't mess with it!
I put Mobil 1 gear oil (75W-80) in differentials (non limited slip type), transfer cases, and manual transmissions when new, and change it every 100,000 miles thereafter.
While I'm under the vehicle changing the motor oil every 10,000 miles, I slide the drain pan over and change the automatic trans fluid too, using the drain plug found on all Toyota trans pans. Since the torque converter is not drained, refill is only 25% to 40% of full trans fluid capacity (usually 2.5 to 3.5 quarts). I drop the pan and clean it every 40,000 to 50,000 miles, replacing the pan gasket and carefully cleaning the filter. I don't use synthetic trans fluid, but adhere to Toyota's recommendation for use of Type T-IV fluid in the tranmissions that require it. I pay $3.00/quart for T-IV fluid, buying it in case quantities from a dealer. I feel the average $10.00 for 10,000 miles is cheap insurance for reliable trans operation.
Don't forget to bleed the brakes until clear fluid is seen, starting with the brake cylinder furthest from the master cylinder. I do this when I change the radiator fluid every year in October. Sucking out the power steering reservoir with a turkey baster I stole from my wife, and replacing the fluid finishes my autumn ritual.
No affiliation but check it out at
www.lubegard.com
An interesting yet secret chemistry .
BTW , my local NAPA did not stock it so I bought it direct in a case of 10 bottles for 66.00 If I remember correctly ...good stuff !No kidding and again , no affiliation !
Anybody know?
Regards,
Dusty
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;- f=11;t=000081
I see that the old oil filter topic has been rendered read only, so I posted this here.
Yeah, I was suspicious. Rislone use to be red in color, now its a bluish. I do agree with the one post about it being effective with a noisy lifter scenario (small block Chevies), I've seen it work but I have also seen it not work. That isn't necessarily scientific, though, since there are more than one cause of lifter noise.
I noticed that the current Rislone advertising makes the point of improving oil flow with a secondary cleaning effect. If it lowers viscosity then it will automatically improve flow.
I think the chemical additive analysis speaks for itself, however.
Thanks again for providing the source.
Best regards,
Dusty
The question is about the fluid (oils) that are used to lubricate the K&N Air filter. I some- times find a little bit of oil residue on the air filter houseing when it is removed for cleaning Is there a possibility that they could damage the Mass air flow sensor or thottle body assembly in My 95 EXplorer. I have been using the K&N for about 2 years or so at this point. I have probably recovered my original investment in it about $30. as it has been cleaned and replaced 3 times. But these oil residues concern me and I cannot say for sure that engine performance is being improved with the manufacturers claim of improved breathing.
The air induction systems used on today's automobiles are engineered at a very high level of precision. Factory systems must be designed to provide a high level of efficiency across a broad range of operating RPM, help meet emissions standards, as well as not hinder the production of power or reduction in performance and keeping sound levels as low as possible. It's not just a throttlebody, intake manifold, and a air cleaner housing. It's truly a system developed where all components affect the overall performance.
I'm sure that reducing any resistance in the system that impedes air flow can result in some type of performance gain, and this is what most of the "high performance" air filter elements do. In the case of oiled air filter elements, a more porous filter is used to reduce flow resistance. The oil is used to attract dust and dirt particles to the strands that make up the filter.
There are a few problems with the oiled filter elements. The oils used are of very high viscosity and lose their tackiness as the temperatures drops, lowering the trapping efficiency considerably. Over time and in warmer temperatures the oil will eventually flow out of the filter also lowering the trapping efficiency. Dissipated oil from the filter will eventually coat the entire air stream areas of the induction system and will collect dust and dirt particles that pass through the filter. The case of a contaminated Mass Air Flow Sensor is merely an example collateral damage.
I know there have been various claims about performance improvements with these oiled filters, but I seriously doubt any significant gains. Reducing air flow resistance by 2% is not going to equate to a 2% HP increase. I don't believe that they provide any decrease in fuel consumption on modern fuel injected systems, but I know others believe that it does.
Just my opinion.
Best regards,
Dusty
Markus, well since most common fuel system solvents (like Gumout Carb Cleaner) don't seem to hurt the sensors, I would speculate that you could spray some solvent into the throttlebody to try to clean-up the interior of the intake manifold and intake valve areas.
Being cautious, though, I would ask a few technicians or even consult a solvent company and see what they say. I will say that an acquaintance just went through this and they had to replace the Mass Air Flow Sensor on his. Now whether it was required, economically a better option, or whether the dealer just wanted to sell him a more expensive repair I honestly couldn't say.
Let us know how you make out.
Best regards,
Dusty
IAfter the oil change I drove the car back to home and parked it. After 2 hours I drove to the local store. On the way home we noticed that the oil warning light turned red, and I heard clicking sound from the engine. We pulled over. I noticed an oil leak under the car then we checked the oil level dipstick, which was totally dry. A closer look showed that the oil drain plug was missing. As it was late I took the car to the dealer the next day.
What my options are. Should I request a new engine?
thanks
Host
Today he replied, and said 0-20 was the appropriate oil for it, not 5-30 or 0-30.
So I will use 0-20 on the car. The only time I can think of switch to something heavier is when I have to take a long-cross country trip in hot weather during the summer.
http://gcubed.sytes.net/gcubed/oilfilter.pdf
I would really like to change to a spin on style filter but I am concerned that besides the oil filter type, there might be something else that's different too.
Why do automakers still use these internal oil filters? Is there some advantage, or are they just a pain in the butt?
They are well designed these days, easy to put in.
The advantages are:
The oil drains out from the top, so you get a more complete oil drain.
There is less oil spill than with a spin-on type.
You can visually inspect the filter pleats when you put it on (what quality? visual confirmation) and again when you take it out (how did it hold up, what build up, if any, on the filter).
There is less likelihood of putting a filter back on top of a gasket that stuck on the motor body from the last filter.
There is less "waste" of cannister materials.
Disadvantages are:
Oil shops just coming up to speed - some charge a slight premium for this filter.
Prejudice based on 1940's internal filters.
In my case, I have to go to the dealer for the filter, and I also have to buy two way overpriced rubber O-rings. Mazda says you have to replace the O-rings everytime, and I believe them, because I didn't do it once, and I made a huge mess in my garage. I'd rather just have a spin-on considering they would both drain the same and spill the same because they would both be vertically mounted, but the spin-on is easier to change.
Do you think there's something else different with my engine related to the internal filter, or can I just swap to a spin-on without worries?
Toyota was actually rejecting oil sludge claims from people who had Jiffy Lube receipts to prove they really had done the required oil changes with the proper weight and grade of oil. I guess their thinking (and they are one of the more reliable makers) was that a new car dealer wouldn't "fake" receipts or use the wrong grade of oil, but as a manufacturer they had no control over an independent oil change shop and no incentive to cover their mistakes or failings, which might have been (i)pretending to do, but not doing, oil changes; or (ii) using low grade, instead of spec, oil from their "bulk pumps."
Now the law in America says the manufacturer has to allow the use of parts by independents, like oils and filters and other supplies, but the reality is the manufacture will stand by their own brand of oil and filters, but point a finger back at the independent if its not clear if the engine or the oil was the cause of the problem.
That having been said, I don't use the car manufacturer's oil or filter in my own vehicles, and based on lousy, overpriced dealer service don't always take my cars back to the dealers, although they are still in warranty, except for required major services which could void the warranty.
But, what you are proposing sounds a little further out there than usual. Are you sure it's worth it?
http://gcubed.sytes.net/gcubed/oilfilter.pdf
I still have my old suction gun somewhere...may need to dust it off!
Hmmm...I think I've got my Model A crank somewhere in the garage...
YMMV,
Jack
I agree that the BMW canister filters aren't that bad, at least on the I6's that I've done. Must be nice to have an oil extractor and not ever have to go underneath the car to change the oil.
The Mazda6i filter is underneath the car, so you need ramps or jack stands, and you have to take off a plastic shroud attached by 8 fasteners to get at it.
The Mazda version of the 2.3L has a plastic oil filter canister cover (plastic intake manifold too). Seems pretty sturdy now, but I wonder if it'll get brittle from the constant heat/cold?
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/engine/e36_97_ti_oil_change.html In my case, I simply went to my local auto parts shop where they let me try the various wrench sizes until I found one that fit. As Ron notes, the BMW filter element comes with three O-rings as well as a drain plug washer. Once you remove the cap the location of the three O-rings will be obvious. Funny thing, my "Oil Service" light came on right before Christmas. I wanted to take the ti on a 200 mile road trip right after New Year's Day, but weather as well as other obligations kept me from changing the oil. As it turned out, I ended up with an unforseen 45 minute "window of opportunity" on New Year's Eve(right before a dinner party). The problem was, I had just driven the car, and the oil was too hot to use the extractor. I wound up jacking up the car just high enough to shove a 3" tall rubber driveway "stop bumper" under the RF tire. After lowering the jack I had just enough room to slide under the air dam and loosen the drain plug. While I was lying there in the gathering darkness, feeling around for the drain plug, Sylvester(div jr.'s demonic bipolar cat) crawled under the car unseen and stuck his nose into my ear. I jumped and nearly knocked myself out by banging my forehead into the steering rack. In any event, it all worked out-in 35 minutes I had the sump filled with 5.25 quarts of M1 15W-50 and the SI lights reset. Ahhhh, the pleasures of DIY auto maintenance...
Thanks.
I've been changing oil for close to 40 years and this is by far the best setup I've seen. I can change oil without getting into "work clothes".
Happy Motoring,
Jack
it is about piston airplane engines (Continental and Lycoming). The sections about "How Cylinders Wear Out" and "Ultra-Low Oil Consumption" are quite interesting.
Cheap, too-less than $5.00 if I recall. Anyway, I didn't require Snap-On quality, since the canister top tightening torque is only 18 lb.ft.(25Nm).