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Comments
Fade and glazing are 2 different problems.
4th Paragragh. I am not sure what month it was printed but here it is online. "...the brakes did fade badly..." I know that they were racing the car but still they used the word 'badly'.
Fade: Excessive heat to the rotors which affects the pads performance to slow the car down.
Glazed Rotors: High heat on the rotors and pads that cause the surface of the rotor to glaze over. (Honda Tech explained this one to me)
Not exactly the same thing but related. Both instants rotors get very hot there by affecting performance.
And before everyone suggests that I check to make sure the switch near the maplights up front is set to the correct setting - I have tried it a hundred times, in each position.
The bulb is not burnt out, since the lights come on when i use the keyless entry to enter and exit the car.
am i hallucinating, or should those interior lights come on when you open a door? Yes, I realize that they come on and then "fade" when you take the key out of the ignition... but in this situation after the "fade" happens, if i am still sitting in the car and I open a door to exit, it stays completely dark inside.
Back in this or another thread, there's a link where you can buy Honda accessories much cheaper than you get them at a dealer.
The mats come with some anchor pins to keep the driver's side mat from creeping forward and interfering with the peddles. A dealer in a hurry may not install those pins, so check to see if they are there or make sure you get the pins when you get the mats. Putting the pins in yourself is no biggie.
I ordered the mats (along with wheel locks & splash guards) from H and A Accessories. Roughly a 30-40% savings over what the dealer wanted.
http://www.petitiononline.com/03Accord/petition.html
If you do get problems , sort them out. You will never regret it.
I will close my eyes and buy Honda again. i am looking at the Accord. It's a good vehicle. maybe the dealership is lousy but you can't go wrong.
So if you all are doing say 20000 miles you have a vehicle to give about 80000 miles again.
I spend my money and service regularly.
I use Mobil 1 syntec and change oil atb 10000 km.
I use the racing plugs.
I have Falkens 205/50 R 15 tyres with 15" rims.
Treat your vehivle like your lady and you will get the benefits.
What about the RIDE. Excellent.
Shocks--Top of the line.
This vehicle is used on rough, bumpy roads with potholes etc etc .
Take care of it.
Azmoh 2003
When you go to the dealer, you should be talking with the body shop manager. Some, (not all)service people are just talking heads.
For comparison check out the showroom model.
Don't be afraid to go elsewhere. You didn't buy a Yugo, so service you be as good as the vehicle.
Every time I (or a passenger) unbuckle the seat belt and let it loose to rewind into the door pillar, the belt rewinds too fast and the seatbelt buckle either scratches or leaves a small pit on the plastic door-side pillar.
I don't know if this is a defect or if I just have to hold onto the buckle and make the belt rewind slowly.
Does anyone else have this problem on their Civic sedans?
Other than that, I am very pleased with the car.
My friend's Lexus RX300 seat belt did the samething, it hits the door or window or whatever is in its way. Just take a easy when you release it.
Enjoy your car!
bjk.
Dinu
While on this subject, has anyone noticed a whistle sound when driving over about 30mph with the window down. This noise comes from the seat belt anchor on the B-pillar. If you put you finger over the slot (through which the belt slides) you eliminate the whistle. Obviously, no one at Honda drove the car with the windows down in the design stage. A simple redesign of the shape of the anchor would have solved the problem. One of the many slip-ups of this 7th gen. of Civic.
Does anyone experience similar?
I have a 1988 Honda Civic. Two weeks back, my car didnt start and the battery light came on ...When i jump started it, it started..But again during driving my battery light came on..So i took it to the walmart and they said its a battery problem and replaced it with a new one..But after a few days again the batter light came on ..sometimes the engine just starts after getting stuck up...[Though i didnt jump start..] All the time the engine light came on during driving...So any idea what could be the problem?? Is it because of the alternator or ECM..Can somebody tell me the correct problem including the cost of the used equipment that needed to be replaced?
regards and thanks
Praveen
good luck
If you reach under the dash, there's a flat plastic panel that "covers up" all the wires and stuff (I guess that's what it is - can you tell how non-technical i am?). On my car, that panel had detached from the dash on the side nearest the door and would flap up and down as i was driving. the sound was EXACTLY like the sound a rattling door would make.
Check that and see - it drove me CRAZY for a few months.
I replaced the stock Firestone tires on my 02 civic ex sedan with a set of Nokian Hakka 1s. They were pricey but I ADORE these tires. Amazing "sticking" and traction, and I have not once gotten stuck. Even after digging the car out of the great 3' snow storm in the mid-atlantic this winter, I was the first car on my street able to actually get DOWN the street without skidding or sliding or losing traction at all. The street had about 4-5 inches of slushy clumpy mess.
The performance on ice has been remarkable as well. This is where the tire really shines.
Anyone curious about getting these snow tires, feel free to contact me, I can't say enough good things about them.
(Lx sedan)
the best I've gotten is 32, possibly 33 mpg hwy. mileage
and the worst 22- 23 city mileage
any suggestions as to the problem?
I've tried driving at different speeds as well
its really beginning to disappoint me, as the main reason I went with another civic over an accord or crv was the gas mileage, but if this it the best it can get I might as well upgrade.
my previous civic (an 86) got 30 in the city and I once got 38 on the hwy., but it averaged more like 33-35 both are automatics
I'm interested in buying either a 1994 or 1995 Honda del Sol with the DOHC VTEC engine. What I'm curious is, does the owners manual recommend "Unleaded Premium Only" or "Unleaded Regular" gasoline?
I'm assuming the "Si" takes "Unleaded Regular".
Thanks.
-Tom
Honda DOHC VTEC take "Premium Fuel Only"
Honda "Si" does take "Regular Unleaded"
Hmmmm,.... guess it makes sense since the DOHC VTEC has just over a 10:1 compression ratio.
-Tom
I'm in the market for either the 1994 or 1995 Honda del Sol Si or DOHC VTEC model(s) with A/C.
I have no idea if any of them have been pestered with any problems (top leaks, whistling noise from wind leaking, etc.). I've heard that the auxiliary lights up front burn out often. How often? Are they a pain to replace the bulbs? Also- has anyone looked into retro-fitting a 1994 with a 1995 inside trunk release lever and latch kit (and having it work)?
I like the 1994 Blue del Sol "Si" with A/C. But I'm looking for one with low miles.
I can't understand why Honda quit making the del Sol. If anyone's had a convertible "rag top" and had the top sliced open with the radio missing (like,... mine), a "Targa" top is the answer for the best of both worlds! It's like a regular car with it on, and a convertible when it's off. When you put it in the trunk, man! You still have an amazing amount of room left back there! I don't know any 2 seater that's like that. Too bad. If Honda was making them today, I'd place an order right now.
Anyway- just curious.
Thanks.
-Tom
JM2C
I remember once it was "Cow Magnets" duct tape these to your fuel lines and get another five miles per gallon.
Some people swore by them!
My driver side window was working fine and one fine day I rolled it down and it won't roll back up. Spoke to a mechanic and he wants $70 just to check for the problem. He seems to think the problem is with the track that will cost about $150 to replace.
Anybody had any experience like this?
I had the mechanism go out in my 86 hatch around a year and a half ago.
And now my power window seems to have gone out in my 2000 sedan.
Without any more specifics and the fact their is
2 generations in between my 86 and your 96, I cant be sure, but with my hatch I first started having problems with it feeling like it was locking up when rolling it up and down, until it got so bad it wouldn't work. turns out the gears became stripped.
If you are mechanically inclined , PLUS willing to remove the panels off of the inside of your door, I suggest trying a junk yard to find replacement parts, and do it yourself, however even after replacing my crank mechanism in my 86 it never worked quite the way it used to, but it does work, be EXTREMELY CAREFUL with the glass I let mine slip because I didn't have anyone helping me and am very lucky it didn't shatter.
can you offer any more information on the problem? or did it just go out suddenly?
now I have a question on my window on my current civic lol
I've had the car for about 2 months now (2000 lx sedan)
I noticed the drivers window seemed a bit slow when compared to the other windows but didn't have any problems until about 2 weeks ago.
it started squeaking going up and down.
well Friday it ended up just stopping I fiddled wit hit a bit. and got it back up.
Then I tried the old wd-40 spray it approach
only this time it just died wouldn't move either way. I got back to work from lunch and got our and noticed it had ran up over the sealing gasket for the window , so I lowered it back down and back up but it still didn't work right. so I've not opened it since.
I had the dealer check on the issues I've mentioned in previous post (that's a whole separate post in it self)
but I was told possibly the regulator? and $360, so im a bit irritated I haven't even broke 50 k and the power window has gone out
I've replaced the mechanism on a hand crank before does anyone know how hard it is to do on power windows? or would I be better off letting the dealer do it?
The panels are all different shades of silver. The door handles, bumpers and metal body parts are all slightly different. The metal is blotchy and goes from dark almost black to light and looks like it was sprayed by me in the garage with a can of Krylon.
I have owned a 86 CRX DX, 90 CRX Si, 00 DX Hatch, and now a 03 CR-V so I know this isn't norm for Honda.
Anyone else have this problem? I'm going to take pictures and try to get Honda to fix it. I can't believe they let this car out of the factory.
checking out the accord (I had been waiting on the element, which I didn't end up liking and the accord was one of my alternates)
I had asked to sit in one since they didn't have one on the show room, and the sales lady went to get a key for one. and I was walking around looking at different trims and colors when I noticed what I thought was a rather large dusty splotch on the rear most panel between the rear passenger door and the back of the cars trunk
I walked over and brushed my hand across the spot
thinking it would wipe off
it was a 15-18 inch diameter (it wasn't completely symmetrical) patch of under spray
on get this
an EXL V6 LEATHER NAV Accord
The top of the line model with a blatant spot of under spray on it.