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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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I've often wondered whether after-market performance seats like Corbeau, Recaro, etc. are safer than the OEM seats in most cars?
The non adjustable racing seats will most likley be better in that aspect. There are only a few cars on the market that come with racing seats from the factory: Civic Si, Focus SVT, Ion Red Line, and that's about it. People commonly complain that they are too hard or restrictive for wide bottomed/back people. This would cut 90% of US population from using those. Maybe this is why they are most often found on sport compacts and not larger sporty cars.
The problem discussed here and on TV was the latch failing and allowing the seatback to recline flat. Which in itself, is probably not too bad as the impact is absorbed over a greater distance, although radial, than it would have been had the seatback remained fixed.
I am not aware of instances when the seats were ripped from the seat rails by the impact. And if they were, the impact must have been greater than any human would survived to tell about. Theoretically, everything has a failure point. So, yes you can rip the seat rails from the floor, you can break the seat from the seat rails, you can crunch the whole car into a 2x3 cube, and wring the juice out of it.
I just bought a 2005 Civic EX Special Edition w/ an automatic transmission about a month ago and it currently has 1500 miles on it. When I slowly brake from a speed faster than 40 mph, the car seems to jolt as it comes to a stop. It jolts ONCE at the speed of around 20-25 mph. What's strange is that it only happens if I gradually and slowly stop. Meaning, I would keep my foot on the brake pedal and steadily increase the pressure slowly. However, if I need to suddenly stop, such is in stop-and-go city traffic, the jolt never occurs. Therefore, I don't know if it's a problem with my car, or if anyone else has had the same problem. Also, I don't know if it's my brakes or the automatic transmission as it downshifts. I've never had the feeling with my previous automatic cars. I'd appreciate anyone who could help, thanks.
When I had the same issue, my mechanic suggested replacing the axles at the same time since you have to remove them anyway to do the boot. Find yourself a competent mechanic who can do the job including providing the parts. Shop around and good luck.
It is probably somewhere in your manual if you got one with your car. It seems alot of people on these boards don't get the manuals with their cars?? (sarcasm, for those who don't know me)
You can go with a rebuilt axles for about $160-$170 installed. Or buy them at your local Auto Zone/Pepe boys/Advance auto parts with core refund. Although it is not a simple job, it is doable by DIY'er.
I have a 1997 Civic DX sedan w/ 119000 miles on it. Just had the oil changed as well as the timing belt and water pump.
At the time the mechanic suggested I do the plugs on a follow up -- I am planning to do that shortly.
In the last week, however, I have noticed an issue with acceleration on starting from a stop. It sputters a bit on 1st, shifting to 2nd, and 3rd -- once I hit 4th and 5th it's pretty much fine (I've had no problem with highway driving).
However, if I hit a hill in 5th it will sputter instead of just slow down on the hill.
Obviously I need to have this checked - but I was wondering if this could be a fuel injection problem or just really dirty plugs?
Thanks!
Kristin
My son and I have done 2 pairs of CV joints on Civics this summer and it can be done at home, but it's not fun. #@*$^# rust! We replaced the whole axles with rebuilts.
If they did not give you a print out why they failed you, sounds like they are a crooker shop. Insist that they give you a detailed print out what areas your car failed at. If it is emissions, you should have a print out of the state minimums and your car's results. If it is safety, they should give you a print out with the safety items indicated. Look at your receipt, or whatever papers they gave you. They can't fail you without telling you and showing proof that your vehicle failed and what needs to be done to be road worthy.
thank you in advance.
thank you in advance.
Sounds like you have a Civic HX with CVT auto.
Call Honda customer support number in the back of you Honda Owners manual and complain. If you had pre existing condition and were maintaining your Honda at the dealer, they may split the cost with you. You mention that you complained earlier, while it was still in warranty, if you have receipts stating your complaint, you are still under warranty. Your vehicle showed symptoms, but was not properly diagnosed by the servicing dealer.
As to who owns Honda, Originally it was Juinichiro Honda, a bicylce maker. Now, it is probably a board of directors, since Mugen Honda is in jail on tax evasion charges. Although, Juinichiro never gave Mugen holding power, this is why Mugen started his own aftermarket company for Honda.
thanks
thanks
Have you tried taking it to a different pump/gas station? 4 gallons sounds like a half tank on a 10-13 gallon tank. Maybe the pump had a bad shut off mechanism.
Otherwise, it is most likley a fuel level sending unit. Although repair is not difficult, you do need to remove the back seat bottoms to acess the top of the fuel tank. Remove the spin nut or couple of screws, take out the fuel pump and sending unit combo.
It could also be the fuel gauge in the gauge cluster it self. Either something is sticking there, or it burnt. Honda uses motors and gears to make needles move, instead of bi-metal coils and heating elements found in most other vehicles. Blowing air to remove the junk in the gears may help, if not then the fuel gauge can be replaced from the cluster. A used one should not cost more than $30 at a junk yard.
Define "Notchy." Can you dissern between "notchy" and "crisp." Honda's manuals have been described as crisp.
Grind is usually assosiated with not fully released clutch. Make sure you press the clutch all the way in. You should give synchros some time to spool up the next gear. 1 to 2 shifts are shorter and you are probably doing it too fast, causing the notchiness. Try to slow the 1 to 2 shift as if they were 2 to 3 shifts.
Honda reverse does not have synchros. You should stop completley before shifting into reverse, and sometimes shift into 1st, then reverse to line up the gears. Same applies to going from reverse to 1st, you have to be completley stopped, or just rolling at 0.1 mph.
Secondly, since I've owned it, there's been a low-intensity whistling sound that seems to come from the right rear corner, most noticable around 40mph. The pitch of the sound changes with speed and is present only when in motion. I'm quite certain it's not wind resistance or tire tread noise. I'll mention it at the 10k checkup but wondered if anyone here has seen this or had thoughts?
Thank you.
The EPA mileage ratings for your Civic are 32/38; 32-33 MPG at the speeds youre driving seems reasonable. If youre really concerned theres something wrong, try driving at the speed limit for an entire tank of fuel and then check your fuel mileage.
From the US DoE and EPA fueleconomy.gov website:
Gas mileage decreases rapidly at speeds above 60 mph. Each 5 mph you drive over 60 mph is like paying an additional $0.10 per gallon for gas.
My 2004 Honda Civic VP, 4 door, automatic, is rated at 29/38 mpg. With 3000 miles on the clock, the mpg range has been between 35-39.5 mpg (almost 40) with up to 3 persons in the car.(large freeway component also)
During the break in, I was "flogging" it and so to me a lower 35 mpg was not a surprize. This does not entail "abuse", but more like 3/4's of redline acceleration (45-75 mph), air conditioning on, etc and attempts to get the automatic to "kick down" so I would not drone on at a constant rpm. So to me, more like standard break in procedures. 37 mpg was the standard 80-85 mph highway cruise. 39 mpg is for the standard highway commute 50 R/T.
Some structual things you might try. 1. TP 30-35 psi,(mine is at 35/36) 2. Mobil One 0w20, (research seems to indicate app 1-3 mph better) I am still on Honda 5w20 oil oem fill. (made by ExxonMobil aka, Superflo)
Some behavioral things 1. smoother acceleration 2. slower acceleration 3. less automatic transmission kick down 4 little to no use of the brakes 4. do not use the engine for "engine" braking
I have to disagree on that one. Engine braking produces very high instanteneous fuel efficiency numbers. The simplest explanation for this, is the fact that you need to use fuel to idle. When you engine brake, the driving wheels force the engine to spin faster than just idling, without increase in gasoline consumption. Although, in the Honda line up only the hybrids have MPG meters, if you have acess to a BMW or any other vehicle with an instateneous MPG gauge try engine braking. I was able to get close to 90 mpg by in the engine braking cycle.
This is one of the reasons manuals provide better fuel efficinecy, but not the major reason. Honda automatics also down shift when you slow down, instead of going into neutral like most other autos on the market.
I also have a "drive by wire" VW Jetta TDI, 5 speed manual which on a long downhill descent does "shut down" fuel consumption. This of course is absolutely wonderful for a host of reasons, but it does have marginal engine braking.
I have a ten mile commute to work and if the traffic allows, coast down a 2 mile hill at about 40 mph in 4th gear. Two questions: 1) Why should this influence my mileage? 2) Is this likely to be causing a strain on the drive train? (My last Civic was still doing fine after 135,000 miles except for a little what I assume was piston slap on cold starts.)
2. So no more than normal operation in correct parameters on both auto and stick.
3. On a manual transmission, generally you have a better chance of over reving on "engine braking" rather than trying to rev it up beyond redline. Normally computer controls will cut fuel or whatever system the oem has put in place to prevent over reving on upshifting . HOWEVER no such controls usually exist on the DOWN shifting!!!! So it is more than simple when downshifting to over rev past redline. This is not a good practice.
But at the same time, when you operate a stick shift; neutral is really "part" of the normal operation of a manual tramsmission.
As for reverse - NEVER shift into reverse when the wheels are still moving, even if you're only rolling at 1mph. Stop completely before shifting to reverse. Japanese trannies often are a bit sticky getting into reverse and as another poster mentioned, shifting to first or second gear before going into reverse often helps it shift more smoothly. Also, never shift into a forward gear when your wheels are moving in reverse at all. Do not tell your dealer that you shift that way or they may deem the tranny abused by you and void your warranty.
Elissa
Putting your transmission (auto or manual) in neutral to coast is generally a bad idea since you have less control over the car and thus it's less safe. It uses an insignificant amount of gas when going downhill and not under load. So I don't see the point in having the car coast in neutral. I'm not sure how the automatic transmission handles shifting from neutral to a drive gear while moving (like when you're done coasting) but this is bad bad bad for a manual transmission unless you 'rev match' or 'double clutch' to match the engine rpm with the transmission rpm. If you don't know what any of that means, you're best bet is to keep your car in the most appropriate drive gear for acceleration or engine braking. Example, I drive down a 4 mile 5% grade hill every day. In my manual transmission car I take it at 40mph in 3rd or 4th gear and in my automatic I leave it in drive going down that hill. Sometimes I'll turn the overdrive off to avoid excessive automatic transmission shifting on the hilly roads but that's not terribly necessary. Bottom line: leave it in drive/gear is my advice.
Elissa
“When you're driving, say, 55 mph, and you take your foot off the gas, the RPM remains approximately the same, even when going downhill. Why is that?”
Let me see if I can help you to understand this phenomenon.
Imagine a child’s bike or even a tricycle where the pedals are inextricably connected to the drive wheel without any freewheel mechanism. When the pedals turn, the wheel turns. Conversely, when the wheel is turning, the pedals are turning, too; they’re locked together. You don’t even need to ride the bike to turn the pedals, just roll the bike along, which will cause the drive wheel to rotate, and the pedals will rotate, too, despite the fact no one is pushing the pedals. Right?
It’s a locked system.
Your car is essentially the same, if somewhat more complicated.
Push starting a car, for example, depends upon this. The car is placed in neutral and pushed a ways to build up some speed. Then the driver puts it in gear, which is then connected to the drive wheels, and the engine turns over, hopefully starting up.
When the car is in gear, the engine is connected to the drive wheels. It’s essentially a locked system, just like the child’s tricycle, but, unlike the tricycle, an automobile has a transmission system that permits the driver to disconnect the engine from the transmission, and thus disconnect it from the drive wheels.
In a manual transmission car, if you leave the car in gear, and bring the car to a complete stop . . . you’ll stall the engine. Right? When you stop the wheels on a manual transmission car that is in gear, you’ve also forcibly stopped the engine. You’ll lurch to a stop, and need to restart the engine. And then you’ll look around furtively to see if anyone saw you do this! Hopefully, no one you know. ;-)
Now, an automatic transmission is designed to permit the car to come to a stop at engine idle speed and still remain in gear. That’s one of the benefits of an automatic, especially if one frequently drives in stop-and-go traffic. It can get tiresome to keep declutching and shifting a manual into neutral in such traffic.
While driving along at 55 mph, if you put your car in neutral, or just declutch on a manual, you’ll see the rpms drop to idle speed. Try it, you’ll see. (But maybe not in heavy traffic. . .)
Has this helped you see how it works?
You wrote:
“Is the engine still working just as hard? [coasting downhill]”
No, because the throttle is closed, and the engine is now just “along for the ride,” being driven by the wheels. Kind of like the kid on the tricycle rolling downhill along the driveway; he’s not driving the pedals, and his feet are just “along for the ride.”
You wrote:
“If so, then wouldn't it use almost as much gas even when going downhill as it does going on flat ground?”
No. Again, because the throttle is closed and very little fuel is being delivered to the engine. You’d get great fuel economy if you could just figure out how to commute to work and back. . . and arrange for it to be downhill in both directions! ;-)
Fuel consumption is directly related to throttle position; when the throttle is closed, the engine is using minimal fuel, and conversely, when the throttle is wide open, the engine is using the most fuel.
I hope this helps you and others to see how these things work.
“In the Jetta idling in neutral actually consumes more fuel down a long downhill stretch than if you let it coast in 5th gear!!!Upshot better mpg down the long downhill stretch IN GEAR with no throttle inputs!”
I don’t mean to get too far afield here, but I seem to recall that the cpu in the TDI will actually shut off fuel delivery under these conditions. Is that right, or am I confused?
I recollect my first test drive in a new ’02 Jetta TDI; it was a strange experience. That drive-by-wire system was unusual. I’d put it in first gear, depress the “disconnected” throttle pedal, and . . . wait. But, then I could hear the little German gnomes and elves beneath the hood mumbling and grumbling, and finally saying, “Well, if you INSIST.” And then they finally bestirred themselves and began providing some locomotion. Very strange. ;-)
And then, too, whenever the clutch was depressed, the cpu disconnected the throttle. I don’t know why they chose to do that, since it made it impossible to match revs on downshifts. By the time I got back to the dealership following a short drive, I was complaining more than the elves under the hood. ;-)
However, that’s not to say it isn’t a fine car. Most owners seem to love their TDIs. I think it’s an acquired taste.
I can imagine diesel owners being aggrieved these days; the other day I saw that diesel fuel was at $2.13/gallon, while regular grade gasoline was at $1.96. Diesel was always supposed to be cheaper. :-(
Nope you are spot on on almost all of your perceptions. I'd go on about the Jetta a bit more, but am mindful this is a Honda Civic Owners: Problem and Solutions thread.
"Nope you are spot on on almost all of your perceptions."
Not all? Hmm...
Well, can you confirm the most important part for me, please? That would be the German gnomes and elves beneath the hood, of course.
You hear them, too, don't you?
<laughing!>
1.Damages can be done to the car, but it is not proven to be true yet.
2.I think this is less fuel efficient because when the engine is at neutral, it requires fuel to keep it running, whereas leaving it in gear it uses very minimal fuel because the force of gravity is keeping the engine moving.
3.The car is less stable if diconnected from the drivetrain.
4.In case of emergency that you have to use power, you step on the gas and the car does not speed up, then that is not very safe.
Isn't that what I just said
blueiedgod Dec 6, 2004 7:26am
I bought a new 2004 Honda Civic, and found there is a problem after 1000 mile. And hope someone can help.
When driving at about 20-30mile/hr, I feel the wheel slip, like pulse (imagine like the clock needle jump), not smooth, no noise during continuous turing. It seems not happen at higher speed, cannot feel after parking the car and turn the wheel. My neighbour also feel this, but not the dealer (piss me off). Is it the steering pump problem? Thanks for your help and sharing.
Have a nice day .
http://www.womanmotorist.com/index.php/news/main/2797/event=view
I bought a new 2004 Honda Civic, and found there is a problem after 1000 mile. And hope someone can help.
When driving at about 20-30mile/hr, I feel the wheel slip, like pulse (imagine like the clock needle jump), not smooth, no noise during continuous turing. It seems not happen at higher speed, cannot feel after parking the car and turn the wheel. My neighbour also feel this, but not the dealer (piss me off). Is it the steering pump problem? Thanks for your help and sharing.
Have a nice day .
Your Civic has speed sensitive power steering. Which means as you increase speed the power assist decreases. This is done to allow for easier parking and better highway steering responses. Maybe you have found the spot where the power steering is switching from high assist to low assist.