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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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I have seen belts go over 200K and they still looked good when they were replaced. I also had a belt break on a Nissan PU at 58,000 miles - change interval was 60K.
If you do have a belt replaced - in addition to the water pump replacement - IMO it is also a good time to replace the pulley that is used to adjust the tension on the timing belt. I had a belt replaced at 60K - and then at 90K the pulley went out. The result is the same as breaking a belt. The pulley cost about $20.
Anyone else have this happen? Any ideas?
Still, we change these all of the time at 150,000 miles or more. I personally inspected one with 170,000 plus miles and it wasn't cracked or frayed. Still, who knows how long it would have gone.
Not worth taking a chance but nothing to get overally worked up over either.
Anyone else have this happen? Any ideas?
There are a few things you can look at. One is main relay, if the 95 had one. Or the ignition switch. It could be as simple as the switch harness is not plugged into the main harness tightly, or as bad as the main relay or wire in the harness shorting out. But since you did not mention any blown fuses, I would assume there is a bad connection between battery and the main switch/relay. Try wiggling the key next time it does not start. If you get a response, then it is the switch. If you are set to do it yourself, you may want to arm with a Helms' electrical manual for your car. It would have detailed electrical diagrams.
You can take the ignition switch apart, there will be a plastic switch at the end of the lock cylinder, you will see two low gauge wires coming to it, amongst other wires, you can try and connect them to see if the main power comes to life.
I have read through the messages and seen a few postings that are similar to my problem, but I was hoping someone would have some experience like mine. Car has 120,000 miles on it, and has really been very reliable as I have owned it for the past three years. I have almost always driven a standard transmission, so I don't think my driving is the root of my problem.
Here's whats happening: On takeoff into first gear, sometimes the clutch shudders so bad, it feels like wheel hop - unless I keep my rpms way up and slowly ride the clutch (which I don't really want to do) until the car is moving. The dashboard even shakes a little from this effect. Shifts into second gear are not quite as pronounced - but I can still feel the same thing happening. At highway speeds, if I downshift and ride the rpms down to slow down at highway speeds, the car rocks forward and backward pretty hard (and is REALLY annoying). This also of course happens at idle in gear in bad traffic, which I get a LOT of.
I think this is probably a motor mount, but the car is either burning a little oil, or leaking it (I have to add a quart every 2000 miles) - so I GUESS it could be the rear seal - though I don't see leaks on the ground. I don't think my clutch is going bad, as if I work it really hard, I can get a second gear scratch without much slippage at the flywheel, but the car did do a nasty torque oversteer to the left when I was checking to see if the clutch was slipping using this method. - I could probably live with this problem if the expense of the repair was excessive, but if it's a motor mount, how much you guys think it would cost? Is there a tried and true way to see if your mounts are bad?
Thanks for your insight!
-Pete
Depending on driving habits and conditions, 120,000 miles isn't unreasnoble for the life of a clutch. The previous owner may have been one of those people who ride or slip their clutch too much. It may also have oil on it from a leaking rear seal which will cause the same problem.
In any event, it is shot. Be sure your shop does the job right including replacement of any leaking seals and a resurface of the flywheel.
Just a little testamony to Honda quality.
Hey, ISELL, is the big H ever gonna revive the CRX?
Next time you are on the road, when it is least busy. Try flooring the gas in 3rd gear or so, and see if the pick up is relative to the RPM surge. If there is oil or just clutch wear, then the RPMs would rise faster than car accelerated.
You can check engine mounts your self, or with a friend. Open the hood and have someone watch the engine move as you try to take off. Too much rocking could indicate mounts, also vusiallt inspect the mounts.
I had an 85 Civic which dropped the engine on take off due to rusted engine mounts. So, anything is possible.
Good luck.
I doubt we will see these again but who knows?
1) How many miles and when was the water pump replaced?
2) Like poster before, it could be as simple as the fan switch, or as bad as the water pump.
3) What kind of antifreeze are you using? HOnda OEM or aftermarket? What is the dillution factor?
Since you mention that you have to run the heater to combat the overheating issue, the following are some possibilities; fan switch, blocked radiator, radiator fan shroud is broken, fan is not running at full speed, something is blocking the air flow to the radiator or from the fan (like a car bra), water pump, hoses, antifreeze is not properly mixed of or the wrong kind. It is difficult to diagnose a problem over the internet.
It is very unusual for a Honda to require a replacement engine. What was the cuase of the original engine failure?
The knocking you describe, is it the dreaded "ping?" When was the last time the tune up performed? What is the engine temperature when pinging occurs? What kind of gas do you use? How is your air filter? how are your plugs? Wires? Oil?
By now most everyone should be aware of my quest to obtain a 2005 Honda Accord EX V6 with Leather. I'm currently in the middle of marketing my Honda Civic 1996 Sedan and have a minor issue. Every time I slow down (to stop, and then the light turns green) to almost a stop and then gas it, there's a huge KICK and then it begins revving up.
What the heck is that? Is it normal?
EDIT: I must also add that it's an automatic transmission.
By now most everyone should be aware of my quest to obtain a 2005 Honda Accord EX V6 with Leather. I'm currently in the middle of marketing my Honda Civic 1996 Sedan and have a minor issue. Every time I slow down (to stop, and then the light turns green) to almost a stop and then gas it, there's a huge KICK and then it begins revving up.
What the heck is that? Is it normal?
EDIT: I must also add that it's an automatic transmission.
When was the last time the trannny serviced/flushed?
More importantly, the passenger side door doesn't open from the inside (OK from the outside). Tried looking for a child safety switch on the edge of the door, but there wasn't one. Is this something I can fix, or do I need to take it somewhere? Any advice as to how to safely remove the door panels to get at the latch mechanism (if I can take care of it)?
As to the question of are they necessary, as dirty as mine are by 15K, I wouldn't even consider doing without.
You have to open up the door panel, or just remove the plastic plate behind the inside door handle to see if the rod is engaged to the handle. if it is, then you definatley have to take out the door panel and make sure the rod connects to the latching mechanism. If that is ok, then the latch is broken, which is unlikley, since you can open it from the outside.
May I suggest you invest in a Helms manual? If not, at least Hayes, or in the worst case Chilton.
You can remove the liner from the inside of the trunk and get to the release mechanism. Just make sure you know this is due to the latch and not due to the spring loaded door. Have someone pull the fuel release door handle inside, while you try carefully to pry the door open. You should see the release pin go in, if it does not, then cable is broken, and needs to be replaced.
The bulb is burnt. You are probably not aware that the turn signal and parking light bulb has two filaments. When you lock the doors, the parking lights flash, turn signal is the same bulb but separate filament. Replace the bulb and you should be fine. Refer to owners manual how to replace the turn signal bulb. You will probably have to remove the wheel well liner to acess the front turn signal bulb.
What else has been done in the last 130,000 miles besides the oil change? Sounds like you are overdue to a major tune up, your owners manual will tell you what needs to be done. If you haven't done any, go back to the 60K and 90K service intervals and work from there.
and it came with NO drivers manual-
I could use a little explanation in regard the the gear shifter(automatic transmission)-
Under the D (drive indicator) in my instrument panel- the S3 has a little green blinking square around it....what is it and why is it blinking?
What does the 'S' stand for-
AND while I'm at it, what is the Low Hold System and Shift Lock Release down on the consul-
Any info would be ever so appreciated!!! Thanks
Thanks for the info. I did overlook the fact that the bulb has two filaments. I checked my car again and did notice that one filament was not lighting up. So thankfully, all I have to do is replace the bulb like you said. I guess now all I have to do is figure out how to access the bulb. I'll keep the removal of the wheel well liner in mind. Thanks again!
Hope this helps
I think the 94 DX was fuel injected, but not 100% sure.
Do you have the exact breakdown of what was done at tune up? Timing belt replacement alone could cost $500, which means that some things were skipped, like PCV valve, fuel fulter, infireor plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor.
It could also be fuel pressure regulator. At the end of the fuel rail there is a valve. You can get a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to it and see what the fuel pressure is, should be about 30, or whatever the manual states.
One of the injectors may be sticking.
Idle vlave could be faulty.
Brakes would have nothing to do with the engine idle speed.