Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

gregoryc1 · February 2005

This is a long shot, but I would check the air intake plumbing on the engine. Be sure that you are not getting any additional air into the engine, (from cracks in the air intake system), when the engine moves on it's mounts under acceleration. If you get additional air through a leak in the air intake system, you will be operating under a lean mixture when the engine moves in the mounts, and when the engine block rocks back into position, the mixture will go rich. At the same time the poor oxygen sensor is trying to get the mixture to 14.7 to 1. Just a suggestion. ----Greg

ncampbell2002 · February 2005

I got my belt done on my 95 Civic DX when I had it for $270 out the door with water pump. Check out a reputable independent mechanic. This will save you $$$ as I mentioned with the clutch post earlier as well. Keep in mind this belt was replaced about 3 years ago so adjust for inflation.

rrgehrke · February 2005

i did a valve job on a 1.5 motor. it has no acceleration after warm up, is it a fuel injector or a fuel system problem?

z71bill · February 2005

I am not a Honda expert - but I have owned a few other vehicles with timing belts - you could take the TB cover part way off - at least enough so you could see the belt. This inspection is not a 100% test - a belt could look good and still fail - but it at least tells you if the belt is starting to fray. I would inspect mine every 20,000 miles or so.

I have seen belts go over 200K and they still looked good when they were replaced. I also had a belt break on a Nissan PU at 58,000 miles - change interval was 60K.

If you do have a belt replaced - in addition to the water pump replacement - IMO it is also a good time to replace the pulley that is used to adjust the tension on the timing belt. I had a belt replaced at 60K - and then at 90K the pulley went out. The result is the same as breaking a belt. The pulley cost about $20.

reillymp1 · February 2005

Anyone have a possible solution for this one? Have a 95 EX w/ 115k miles. New battery 2 months ago. Go to start and get no response, no lights on the dash, can't start, no power for locks, radio, nothing. Dealer inspected, said battery cable loose, tightened negative cable back up, and seemed to fix problem. Day later, same symptoms return after driving on hwy trip for 3 hours. Check battery cables, and they are all tight. Don't see any frayed wires. 10 mins. later try again, and luckily get it to start and I haven't done anything but try the key again.

Anyone else have this happen? Any ideas?

isellhondas · February 2005

I think you are making too much out of this timing belt issue. I would not tempt fate and I would change mine at or before 105,000 miles.

Still, we change these all of the time at 150,000 miles or more. I personally inspected one with 170,000 plus miles and it wasn't cracked or frayed. Still, who knows how long it would have gone.

Not worth taking a chance but nothing to get overally worked up over either.

blueiedgod · February 2005

Anyone have a possible solution for this one? Have a 95 EX w/ 115k miles. New battery 2 months ago. Go to start and get no response, no lights on the dash, can't start, no power for locks, radio, nothing. Dealer inspected, said battery cable loose, tightened negative cable back up, and seemed to fix problem. Day later, same symptoms return after driving on hwy trip for 3 hours. Check battery cables, and they are all tight. Don't see any frayed wires. 10 mins. later try again, and luckily get it to start and I haven't done anything but try the key again.

Anyone else have this happen? Any ideas?

There are a few things you can look at. One is main relay, if the 95 had one. Or the ignition switch. It could be as simple as the switch harness is not plugged into the main harness tightly, or as bad as the main relay or wire in the harness shorting out. But since you did not mention any blown fuses, I would assume there is a bad connection between battery and the main switch/relay. Try wiggling the key next time it does not start. If you get a response, then it is the switch. If you are set to do it yourself, you may want to arm with a Helms' electrical manual for your car. It would have detailed electrical diagrams.

You can take the ignition switch apart, there will be a plastic switch at the end of the lock cylinder, you will see two low gauge wires coming to it, amongst other wires, you can try and connect them to see if the main power comes to life.

petesintegra · February 2005

Hello all, I have a 1995 Integra... (would have posted there, but this thread is much busier - and my car is basically a civic anyway.)

I have read through the messages and seen a few postings that are similar to my problem, but I was hoping someone would have some experience like mine. Car has 120,000 miles on it, and has really been very reliable as I have owned it for the past three years. I have almost always driven a standard transmission, so I don't think my driving is the root of my problem.

Here's whats happening: On takeoff into first gear, sometimes the clutch shudders so bad, it feels like wheel hop - unless I keep my rpms way up and slowly ride the clutch (which I don't really want to do) until the car is moving. The dashboard even shakes a little from this effect. Shifts into second gear are not quite as pronounced - but I can still feel the same thing happening. At highway speeds, if I downshift and ride the rpms down to slow down at highway speeds, the car rocks forward and backward pretty hard (and is REALLY annoying). This also of course happens at idle in gear in bad traffic, which I get a LOT of.

I think this is probably a motor mount, but the car is either burning a little oil, or leaking it (I have to add a quart every 2000 miles) - so I GUESS it could be the rear seal - though I don't see leaks on the ground. I don't think my clutch is going bad, as if I work it really hard, I can get a second gear scratch without much slippage at the flywheel, but the car did do a nasty torque oversteer to the left when I was checking to see if the clutch was slipping using this method. - I could probably live with this problem if the expense of the repair was excessive, but if it's a motor mount, how much you guys think it would cost? Is there a tried and true way to see if your mounts are bad?

Thanks for your insight!

-Pete

rrgehrke · February 2005

looking for an answer please is surging caused by the fuel regulator valve or the throttle positioning sensor

lynz · February 2005

Hi. My 2001 Honda Civic EX had about 70,000 miles on it when the automatic transmission decided that it had had enough. I took it to the Honda dealer, and they told me it would be $2900 plus tax. I had purchased the car new from this dealer, so I talked with the head of the service department, and they ended up paying for the full cost of the new transmission. I didn't have the extended warranty or anything, and I didn't at all get rude with the manager. There is a Service Bulletin out for this type of trouble, and I think that Honda is definitely willing to cover some if not all of the cost of a transmission replacement.

rrgehrke · February 2005

sounds like a throttle positioning valve oh i am so smart dont ya think

alcan · February 2005

What year, what's the fuel pressure and manifold vacuum at hot idle? Have you verified the timing belt alignment marks?

alcan · February 2005

A veritable rocket scientist, aside from the fact that there's no such thing as a "throttle positioning valve". Did you maybe mean the throttle position sensor?

rrgehrke · February 2005

yes that is what i meant but not sure it idles very high whan it is disconnected, the throttle positioning sensor

rrgehrke · February 2005

if the engine mount is loose where the intake manifold is connected will there be a mixture problem.

isellhondas · February 2005

You need a new clutch.

Depending on driving habits and conditions, 120,000 miles isn't unreasnoble for the life of a clutch. The previous owner may have been one of those people who ride or slip their clutch too much. It may also have oil on it from a leaking rear seal which will cause the same problem.

In any event, it is shot. Be sure your shop does the job right including replacement of any leaking seals and a resurface of the flywheel.

andyman73 · February 2005

Not that this has any relevence, but I had the clutch changed, 88 CRX Si, at 170K miles. Yes, it was slipping, and yes, it was liveable. Didn't have any shuddering. I was in a poor income state of being, so, I babied that thing. Finally some extra money made itself available. Put in a dual friction Center Force, and crashed into a stone wall 2 days later! Dagnabit!!!

Just a little testamony to Honda quality.

Hey, ISELL, is the big H ever gonna revive the CRX?

blueiedgod · February 2005

Sounds like oil is leaking onto the clutch.

Next time you are on the road, when it is least busy. Try flooring the gas in 3rd gear or so, and see if the pick up is relative to the RPM surge. If there is oil or just clutch wear, then the RPMs would rise faster than car accelerated.

You can check engine mounts your self, or with a friend. Open the hood and have someone watch the engine move as you try to take off. Too much rocking could indicate mounts, also vusiallt inspect the mounts.

I had an 85 Civic which dropped the engine on take off due to rusted engine mounts. So, anything is possible.

Good luck.

isellhondas · February 2005

CRX ?

I doubt we will see these again but who knows?

andyman73 · February 2005

One can dream, right?

operator · February 2005

My 94 civic del sol s is overheating, at least according to the temp gauge. It floats around rather fast and seems to behave better if i run the heater quite hot. Ive replaced the thermostat with a honda OEM thermostat. that seemed to give me more time before it starts acting up. doesnt do it much in cruise. starts getting bad in stop-n-go driving. the radiator fan works. not sure what to do next.

gee35coupe · February 2005

sensor that activates the fan. Might be activating at too high a temp.

93 civic lx · February 2005

I was wondering if anyone had any ideas as to what could be causing the following problem. I hear and feel a knocking either in the engine compartment or at the front of the car. When I hear the sound I can usually make it stop by lifting off the accelerator and maintaining a lower speed. The sound does not happen all of the time however, but has gotten progressively worse. Last night I drove on the freeway for a while without hearing or feeling it at all, then all of a sudden it became very loud and I had to decrease to 40 mph until I got off the freeway to keep it under control. It occurs most often when the car is going up-hill or under hard acceleration. Any Ideas? Also, my civic is on its second engine and has 280,000 miles on it.

blueiedgod · February 2005

My 94 civic del sol s is overheating, at least according to the temp gauge. It floats around rather fast and seems to behave better if i run the heater quite hot. Ive replaced the thermostat with a honda OEM thermostat. that seemed to give me more time before it starts acting up. doesnt do it much in cruise. starts getting bad in stop-n-go driving. the radiator fan works. not sure what to do next.

1) How many miles and when was the water pump replaced?

2) Like poster before, it could be as simple as the fan switch, or as bad as the water pump.

3) What kind of antifreeze are you using? HOnda OEM or aftermarket? What is the dillution factor?

Since you mention that you have to run the heater to combat the overheating issue, the following are some possibilities; fan switch, blocked radiator, radiator fan shroud is broken, fan is not running at full speed, something is blocking the air flow to the radiator or from the fan (like a car bra), water pump, hoses, antifreeze is not properly mixed of or the wrong kind. It is difficult to diagnose a problem over the internet.

blueiedgod · February 2005

I was wondering if anyone had any ideas as to what could be causing the following problem. I hear and feel a knocking either in the engine compartment or at the front of the car. When I hear the sound I can usually make it stop by lifting off the accelerator and maintaining a lower speed. The sound does not happen all of the time however, but has gotten progressively worse. Last night I drove on the freeway for a while without hearing or feeling it at all, then all of a sudden it became very loud and I had to decrease to 40 mph until I got off the freeway to keep it under control. It occurs most often when the car is going up-hill or under hard acceleration. Any Ideas? Also, my civic is on its second engine and has 280,000 miles on it.

It is very unusual for a Honda to require a replacement engine. What was the cuase of the original engine failure?

The knocking you describe, is it the dreaded "ping?" When was the last time the tune up performed? What is the engine temperature when pinging occurs? What kind of gas do you use? How is your air filter? how are your plugs? Wires? Oil?

ncampbell2002 · February 2005

Could it possibly be a headgasket going bad? I know one of the symptoms of that are an abnormal water temp. fluxuation and it usually floats between normal and hot usually moreso on the hot side.

grandmasterb · February 2005

Hello everyone,

By now most everyone should be aware of my quest to obtain a 2005 Honda Accord EX V6 with Leather. I'm currently in the middle of marketing my Honda Civic 1996 Sedan and have a minor issue. Every time I slow down (to stop, and then the light turns green) to almost a stop and then gas it, there's a huge KICK and then it begins revving up.

What the heck is that? Is it normal?

EDIT: I must also add that it's an automatic transmission.

blueiedgod · February 2005

Hello everyone,

By now most everyone should be aware of my quest to obtain a 2005 Honda Accord EX V6 with Leather. I'm currently in the middle of marketing my Honda Civic 1996 Sedan and have a minor issue. Every time I slow down (to stop, and then the light turns green) to almost a stop and then gas it, there's a huge KICK and then it begins revving up.

What the heck is that? Is it normal?

EDIT: I must also add that it's an automatic transmission.

When was the last time the trannny serviced/flushed?

sp0t · February 2005

I've noticed that when my fuel gets low that the low fuel light doesn't come on. Has anyone else had this problem? What could be some of the possible causes? I have a 1998 Honda Civic EX.

perlmans_79 · February 2005

My dad passed away recently, leaving me his 1994 Civic Del Sol. He took fantastic care of it and it has just under 60,000 miles. However, some problems have crept up during the year I've owned it. There has been a terrible rattle in the passenger side door for some time (luckily, only if the door's open while the car's running), which seems to be very common in looking through other posts on this board.

More importantly, the passenger side door doesn't open from the inside (OK from the outside). Tried looking for a child safety switch on the edge of the door, but there wasn't one. Is this something I can fix, or do I need to take it somewhere? Any advice as to how to safely remove the door panels to get at the latch mechanism (if I can take care of it)?

catlvr · February 2005

I have 2001 honda civic lx and there is squeaking in chassis area heard especially when driving very slowly through a parking lot etc. Mechanic checked and lubed some but it is still there. Could it be shocks?

sek4mlk · February 2005

Hope that price of $28.30 was for the pair. A few years ago, Honda dealers were charging close to $50/pair. I've been buying mine from H & A Accessories at $9.50 each. Shipping runs $5-6 from west to east coast. Tried filters by Purolator, but found them to be substandard compared with the Honda (Micron).

As to the question of are they necessary, as dirty as mine are by 15K, I wouldn't even consider doing without.

blueiedgod · February 2005

More importantly, the passenger side door doesn't open from the inside (OK from the outside). Tried looking for a child safety switch on the edge of the door, but there wasn't one. Is this something I can fix, or do I need to take it somewhere? Any advice as to how to safely remove the door panels to get at the latch mechanism (if I can take care of it)?

You have to open up the door panel, or just remove the plastic plate behind the inside door handle to see if the rod is engaged to the handle. if it is, then you definatley have to take out the door panel and make sure the rod connects to the latching mechanism. If that is ok, then the latch is broken, which is unlikley, since you can open it from the outside.

May I suggest you invest in a Helms manual? If not, at least Hayes, or in the worst case Chilton.

dmbst68 · February 2005

Hi. The fuel door on our 2003 Civic LX sedan will not open. This is the first time it's ever done this. The fuel door release button depresses, but the door will not open. The temp is in the 40's, so there's no ice build-up issue. Is there another way to open the fuel door with out prying it open? I don't want to do any damage. If anyone knows, please be descriptive! Thanks in advance...

blueiedgod · February 2005

Hi. The fuel door on our 2003 Civic LX sedan will not open. This is the first time it's ever done this. The fuel door release button depresses, but the door will not open. The temp is in the 40's, so there's no ice build-up issue. Is there another way to open the fuel door with out prying it open? I don't want to do any damage. If anyone knows, please be descriptive! Thanks in advance...

You can remove the liner from the inside of the trunk and get to the release mechanism. Just make sure you know this is due to the latch and not due to the spring loaded door. Have someone pull the fuel release door handle inside, while you try carefully to pry the door open. You should see the release pin go in, if it does not, then cable is broken, and needs to be replaced.

haraza · February 2005

Hi. I have a 2001 Honda Civic EX Coupe. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed my right turn signal would rapidly blink when I used it. It eventually went back to the normal speed of blinking during the drive. Just this weekend, however, I noticed the right turn signal was rapidly blinking again. I looked online and found out that it might be due to a blown bulb or a bad connection or something? I checked the lights, and all the bulbs seem to be working (when I lock the car, all the lights turn on ok), however, the front right turn light is not working when I turn on the right turn signal. Does anyone have an idea what the problem might be? Can I check/fix it myself? If it's the wiring or connection that I need to check, what's the best way to take a look at that? Pop off the headlight or look under the hood? My last alternative is to bring it to the dealership, but I was hoping to see if I can fix it myself. Any info would be gratefully appreciated. Thanks in advance.

john500 · February 2005

I always look to the cheapest solution. Check the integrity of the fuse that controls the right turn signal. In some older cars that I worked on, the fuse controlled the blinking rate. If that doesn't fix it, then start looking at the bulb and finally shorted wires.

hondahums · February 2005

My 1994 Civic DX idle pulsates when cold. Everything seems fine after it has warmed up, although it seems to be emitting some nasty odors from the tailpipe. I've had the oil changed faithfully every 5,000 miles (really, I swear). Gas mileage seems about as reasonable as it has ever been, 25-28mpg around town. I have about 130K on this puppy and hate to see her go so soon. What would you suggest?

blueiedgod · February 2005

Hi. I have a 2001 Honda Civic EX Coupe. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed my right turn signal would rapidly blink when I used it. It eventually went back to the normal speed of blinking during the drive. Just this weekend, however, I noticed the right turn signal was rapidly blinking again. I looked online and found out that it might be due to a blown bulb or a bad connection or something? I checked the lights, and all the bulbs seem to be working (when I lock the car, all the lights turn on ok), however, the front right turn light is not working when I turn on the right turn signal. Does anyone have an idea what the problem might be? Can I check/fix it myself? If it's the wiring or connection that I need to check, what's the best way to take a look at that? Pop off the headlight or look under the hood? My last alternative is to bring it to the dealership, but I was hoping to see if I can fix it myself. Any info would be gratefully appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The bulb is burnt. You are probably not aware that the turn signal and parking light bulb has two filaments. When you lock the doors, the parking lights flash, turn signal is the same bulb but separate filament. Replace the bulb and you should be fine. Refer to owners manual how to replace the turn signal bulb. You will probably have to remove the wheel well liner to acess the front turn signal bulb.

blueiedgod · February 2005

My 1994 Civic DX idle pulsates when cold. Everything seems fine after it has warmed up, although it seems to be emitting some nasty odors from the tailpipe. I've had the oil changed faithfully every 5,000 miles (really, I swear). Gas mileage seems about as reasonable as it has ever been, 25-28mpg around town. I have about 130K on this puppy and hate to see her go so soon. What would you suggest?

What else has been done in the last 130,000 miles besides the oil change? Sounds like you are overdue to a major tune up, your owners manual will tell you what needs to be done. If you haven't done any, go back to the 60K and 90K service intervals and work from there.

nita2000 · February 2005

Hi, I just bought a 90 civic wagon awd
and it came with NO drivers manual-
I could use a little explanation in regard the the gear shifter(automatic transmission)-
Under the D (drive indicator) in my instrument panel- the S3 has a little green blinking square around it....what is it and why is it blinking?
What does the 'S' stand for-
AND while I'm at it, what is the Low Hold System and Shift Lock Release down on the consul-
Any info would be ever so appreciated!!! Thanks

haraza · February 2005

Hi blueiedgod,

Thanks for the info. I did overlook the fact that the bulb has two filaments. I checked my car again and did notice that one filament was not lighting up. So thankfully, all I have to do is replace the bulb like you said. I guess now all I have to do is figure out how to access the bulb.

I'll keep the removal of the wheel well liner in mind. Thanks again!

jbollt · February 2005

My 2001 4 door civic ex just hit 50000 miles. All has been good up until recently, when my power door locks have started acting up. When I hit the unlock switch on the driver's door all of the doors would unlock except for the right rear. As time progressed, the rest of the doors have slowly stopped reliably locking and unlocking. Right now, my driver's door lock is the only one that consistently unlocks and locks. These symptoms occur both when I use the remote or the door switch. The weirdest part about it is that all of the doors 'click' like the lock actuator is working, but none of them actually unlock. If any one has any suggestions I would appreciate it.

hondahums · February 2005

I had a tune-up (plugs, cap, wires and timing- belt, a couple of filters) about 5,000 miles and $650 ago. Brakes have been changed twice, exhaust system has been done over totally minus the convertor at least twice. Radiator and thermostat was replaced last summer. Any other clues?

kat95 · February 2005

A rapidly blinking turn signal is a blown bulb or is about to go, I had the same thing happen.
Hope this helps

blueiedgod · February 2005

I had a tune-up (plugs, cap, wires and timing- belt, a couple of filters) about 5,000 miles and $650 ago. Brakes have been changed twice, exhaust system has been done over totally minus the convertor at least twice. Radiator and thermostat was replaced last summer. Any other clues?

I think the 94 DX was fuel injected, but not 100% sure.

Do you have the exact breakdown of what was done at tune up? Timing belt replacement alone could cost $500, which means that some things were skipped, like PCV valve, fuel fulter, infireor plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor.

It could also be fuel pressure regulator. At the end of the fuel rail there is a valve. You can get a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to it and see what the fuel pressure is, should be about 30, or whatever the manual states.

One of the injectors may be sticking.

Idle vlave could be faulty.

Brakes would have nothing to do with the engine idle speed.

jkohler · February 2005

I have a 1999 Honda Civic EX which I love I might add. The problem is, lately I will for instance drive my car to the post office with no problem. When I get back in the car and try to start it, it won't start like it is flooded or something. After I put my foot on the gas for a long time it eventually starts.It is continually doing this. If i let it sit overnight it starts just fine but when I turn it off and try to start it again, it won't start. Any suggestions on what I need to do to fix this?

gee35coupe · February 2005

Leaky injectors maybe?

jkohler · February 2005

Does anybody know how to locate the main relay in a 1999 Honda Civic EX? I need to test it but I don't know how to get to it.

newcougar99 · February 2005

I've got a 1990 Civic DX, with an automatic. It has about 110,000 miles on it. Lately it has been losing power when I go to merge into traffic or leave from a stop sign. Sometimes I can recover it if I put it into neutral and feather the gas pedal, other times it stalls. Sometimes it restarts quickly, other times it does not. The repair shop doesn't have any ideas...any owners who do?

Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Honda Civic: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions