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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
It was probably not your scraper that caused those tiny scratches. It was most likely sand-like road grime that was on the glass before it froze. You probably dragged that abrasive stuff accross the glass while scraping the ice off.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Plain old store-brand Windex and a paper towel has always worked great on my windshields. If there is any sticky stuff there, a bit of tar remover or mineral spirits will dissolve it quickly. No need to drag any kind of abrasive material over glass.
Thank you
You're free to do whatever you want if you think that really does remove all the material from you own windshield. It doesn't on mine.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The more frequently you drag anything abrasive, such as steel wool, over your windshield, the more likely that you'll have to do it repeatedly in the future. That's because you are causing microsopic damage to the glass.
I have almost 6k miles on my EX Coupe auto and get 33-35 MPG depending on AC use (AZ resident). I love the car and would buy another in a heart beat if my current one became incapacitated. :shades:
Today, I was told that the rear plate that holds the suspension in place was wrapped around like an L, and I was asked if the car was in an accident? I responded no and told this dealership I had complained about the noise from day one to the dealership I bought it at, who claimed the problem to be an unlubed bushing. Now I am told that something had to have happened before I got the car.
What checks and prep must the dealership do in order to catch things like this?
I check my engine oil level several times since I found this weird problem. There is no obvious sign of decreasing oil level. And gas milage is no big change either (27local/30highway)
Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks.
Sorry for my ignorance. What is the crush washer? I did my oil and filter change at Honda dealer. I do not remember there was any crush washer work done. If it is the crush washer problem, is it serious to do harm to the engine?
It makes me worry cause obviously there is something burning or leaking inside my car. Maybe I should send it to garage to check.
But OK, let us dissect this a bit. The problem is I asked the questions from the perspective of having the car up on jacks and looking UP at those "weird" surfaces.
You are course responding from the "top down". So obviously from that perspective you are seeing no oil leaks. So the best is to take it back to the Honda dealer and tell them you have the smell of burning oil after THEY did the oil change. If still under warranty they will of course rack it UP and inspect. If not under warranty, in the worst case you might have to pop for a little shop time. However since they did the oil and filter change job, the job should be guaranteed for a certain amount of time and mileage.
The crush washer is used (once, and should be replaced new each time by whoever is doing the maintainance ) to seal the oil plug nut. It is like a .10-.21 cent washer made of aluminum. So while VERY unlikely, if that or the seal around the oil filter are leaking, oil can hit heated surfaces and cause an odor.
Best of luck.
It just sounds like residual oil that found its way to a heated surface near where the intake is for the cabin fan. This of course shoots the odor into the cabin. I think all it will probably take is a good "degrease" and your odor should go away. So most likely a very small problem.
The first being when I go over bumps etc. I hear very faint squeaking from the front end. My gas pedal squeaks, too but if you had to guess, would you think there might be some shock/strut issues? Again, it's very faint squeaking over bumps and irregularities in the road.
The second issue is when I shut off the engine and everything is coming to a stop, there is a squeak coming from the engine area like a belt that might not be coming to a stop smoothly.
My car is a 2001 Civic EX Automatic with 56,500 miles. It's had all its maintenance done regularly, but maybe the shocks/struts/belts have recently gone bad or gotten out of whack.
Any ideas?
I’m doing the rounds of the boards because I am at my wit’s end.
Bought an ’06 Civic Coupe LX auto last November and have had nothing but trouble since.
#1 Faulty ODS sensor replaced before recall
#2 Torque converter vibrates between 29 and 39 mph @ 1500 rpm. They told that there is as yet no fix for this - so basically they said “live with it!”
#3 Oil leak. The car is currently in the shop – they have to drop the transmission to replace a plug where the engine meets the transmission.
This is my second Civic (my wife has an 02 Accord). Needless to say, I will not buy another Honda. I am amazed that a car manufacturer of this caliber can build, sell and SUPPORT a car that is so obviously sub-par.
I am writing this as a heads-up for other Civic owners and to ask if anyone else has experienced any of these problems.
Thanks for listening (it gets very lonely).
Say says she can hear the latch, but the hood doesn't pop, nor does holding the latch open and trying to lift the hood work.
Any particulars to know about before diving in tomorrow after work? Thanks!
-B
Any suggestions would be helpful.
I just got a new 2006 civic coupe EX and have found the same problem as you. Do you think the dealer would install a piece of foam under the rear deck if I told them that is wear the noise is coming from? Being a new car, I wouldn't want a piece of foam sticking out in plain sight. The only other option I can think of is getting some dynamat from Crutchfield and adhering it to the underside of the rear deck.
Let me know what you think.
http://www.risingsunengines.com/index.php?pg=pricequote04
I just took over the car from the wife - after driving it 2 days I think the clutch is going bad! Crappy thing is that it has 44,XXX miles and out of warranty.
Anyone heard/had a clutch go bad this early in an 03 Civic? Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Also, anyone know how much $$ to replace the clutch?
Take care, TG :shades:
1. Why is the price so different? What is it about OEM Honda glass that makes it cost so much more? Is it just the name or is there something more to it? Is Safelite inferior? Is it as safe? Anyone had an experience with them before, positive or negative?
2. What is the story with tinting? The Honda OEM part says the civic has a "green" windshield. ??? The glass on my car doesn't appear to have any tinting to me. Safelite can provide me glass with or without the tint, but they are referring to the blue tint on the top of the windshield which my car does not have.
Any insight anyone has is appreciated. Thanks!
1) At what mileage does the timing belt need to be replaced? (110k?)
2) How much does it cost to replace the timing belt? ( dealers say about $1000)
3) How much do pair brake pads cost? (dealer - $250)
4) how much does the 60k service cost? (dealer - $500)
I interested in your answers based on your experience of owning a Civic.
Thanks
1) The code for the radio was not provided to me. When I change my battery I'm concerned I will not be able to reuse the radio. Any suggestions?
2) I was not provided with a second key. I can't just get a duplicate made since these keys have chips in them. Any one know how to get a spare and how much it would cost?
3) There seems to be a lot of noise coming from the top of the windshield when going over 30 miles/hr. I felt up under the head liner to the glass interface and it seems the black seal / molding is all uneven. Maybe the windshield was replaced at some point - but poorly done. Any one have any suggestions to eliminate the noise. No water gets through.
4) I believe the suspension feels very soft, especially in the rear. I've had the struts checked out by two shops: The independent recommended not replacing - he said just get used to the ride; the second shop a Honda dealer said the rear struts are fine, but found a small amount of leakage in one of the front struts and therefore recommended replacement (550$). Is there anything else I should check? 90k miles is a lot!
5) I'm going to get the timing belt replaced. Dealer recommends that I also change the water pump and all seals. Any opinions?
Thanks!
did anyone ever provide a solution for the water leak? or the origin of the problem?
-Meg
There ain't nutin that's good on icy roads, except a Zamboni.......
I took it to Autozone for them to read the code and their computer said it was the oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1). So I bought a new oxygen sensor there and took it to Pep Boys to be replaced since Autozone didn't have a service shop.
Pulling out of Pep Boys, the "check engine" light was still on. I turned the engine on and off a few times to see if that would reset the light, but no luck. Does anyone know if there is a certain number of miles I would have to drive before this light would be reset? Or is it time to take it to the dealer?