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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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  • patwpatw Member Posts: 1
    I have a Honda Civic 2003 LX 4door manual transmission, and the check engine light just came on. I have only 33,000 miles on it. I tried to reset the light with turning on the engine while holding down the trip reset but this was not successful. Is this something that I need to take to a dealer? And is this safe to drive still?

    Thanks,
    Pat
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    All cars die eventually.

    I've seen quite a few Hondas running well with 250,000 plus miles on them. Make sure you have na inspection done first. It's also due for a timing belt.
  • crissmancrissman Member Posts: 145
    Sometimes the reason for a CEL is just a loose gas cap. If that's okay and the car is running fine/normally I'd ignore it for a few days. It will usually go out after a few restarts. I have not actually experienced this with Hondas, yet, but my old Mazda did it regularly and I never did figure out why. Of course, I never had it checked, since it always continued to run just fine. If you're an "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" type person, like me, I'll bet it goes out and you won't see it again for some time. I think this a common occurance in many different cars.
  • civicex05civicex05 Member Posts: 42
    I was going to buy a 97 Civic with 99K on it since i had heard that these cars never die, but wanted to get an opinion from somebody who actually knows.

    Nobody actually "knows" if the car you're looking at will be a good investment. Does the current owner have maintenance records? How often was the oil changed? Has it ever been in a wreck?

    If the car was well cared for and not driven excessively hard, chances are it should last well beyond 200,000 miles. Honda Civics are reliable, but they are not indestructible. There are no guarantees.
  • lowrancherolowranchero Member Posts: 7
    i own a 98 civic dx hatchback, 5spd. check eng light came on and engine began to idle low and stall intermittently at stops and nearly stall upon accel. my mech pulled code p0135, "indicating a failure in the oxygen sensor heaer circuit bank1 sensor1". quetions:

    1. i am pretty capable in the garage. can i replace the oxygen sensor myself?
    2. my mechanic recommended if i do i should use a honda part only, ($198). bosch part is $94. big diff in price. what about quality? should i pop for the honda unit or is the bosch a quality alternative?
    3. once the sensor is replaced will the idle return to normal or will i have to have a mechanic address this?
    4. will the check eng light turn off afer the sensor is replaced?
    THANKS FOR ALL HELP. IT HAS BEEN AN EXPENSIVE MONTH SO ANY DOUGH I CAN SAVE HELPS.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I replaced the O2 sensor on a 98 Mustang I had, piece of cake after getting the special socket. I bought the cheaper one at the local auto parts store, saved over 100 bucks plus labor and it ran fine.

    I know there's a way to reset the CE light if you've got the right equipment, but simply disconnecting the neg. battery terminal for a couple minutes will do the same thing. Good luck.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Whatever you do, make sure you have the proper socket to get that sensor out. It is in there TIGHT! If you use the wrong socket such as a 12 pt. socket, you will round it off!
  • free2roamsrfree2roamsr Member Posts: 1
    im having problems with my wipers and windows and everyone tells me its a fuse but i dont have the cover or the diagram to see which one?
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    And saturate it like crazy with some good penetrating oil.
  • civicridercivicrider Member Posts: 2
    Dear all,
    I own a 1995 Civic Coupe (made in Canada, if that makes any difference) that overheats and my mechanic (after $640 of repairs!!!) cannot seem to find what causes it .
    This is the story in short:
    1) Changed water pump
    2) Changed thermostat
    3) New timing belt
    4) No signs of coolant on the sparkplugs
    5) No visible leaks anywhere - thoroughly checked by mechanic
    6) No mixing of coolant and engine oil (in radiator or engine)
    7) No white exhaust
    8) After topping off the coolant the car starts to overheat within a day or two and seems like it looses some of its power, too. The only thing i can think of is a leak, but we have looked for hours to no avail...
    Is it a good idea to use the store-sold radiator/leak sealant and if yes, then what is a good one to use?

    Please, share any suggestions or ideas you may have
  • civicridercivicrider Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    As far as I understand the manual recommends to change the timing belt at 105 000.
    About the rest I will give you a recent example:
    After changing my timing belt, water pump, thermostat, a few gaskets and seals that go with this + front breakpads and rotors and one of the axle outer boots my mechanic charged me $609,29 including tax. This was a week ago in San Diego - nation's 6th most expensive city, so adjust accordingly.
    Hope this will help.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Sounds like a head gasket.

    If it happens in traffic, it's possible the electric fan in front of the radiator isn't working.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    test the cooling system with a pressure pump and then remove the spark plugs and look for coolant. Also pressure building up in your overflow tank would be a bad sign.

    You can also test for combustion gases in your radiator coolant.
  • helpful1helpful1 Member Posts: 1
    That is also a sign of a head gasket blown, but most people overlook. The head gasket will blow and the compression of the motor will be pushed into the cooling system blowing hoses. Also could be a cracked head and will do the same thing. My friends 95 Honda Civic was doing the same thing and was taking to several shop with no awnser. I've gone through school to be a mechanic and had seen two cars like that come through. We pulled the head and replaced with a spare head from a junk yard with new gasket and the problem was gone. He has put 75,000 miles since the repair and has 322,000 miles on it now.
  • sek4mlksek4mlk Member Posts: 24
    During my attempt to replace the distributor rotor, I was unable to get the set screw for the rotor to loosen. Is this a left-loosey screw or is it perhaps reverse threaded? Just want to make sure before I resort to more drastic measures.
  • sek4mlksek4mlk Member Posts: 24
    According to the Honda service manual for the 2001-2002 Civic, the timing belt should be replaced at either 110,000 mi or 7 years for both normal and severe driving conditions. The only caveat is if the vehicle has been routinely operated in either extremely hot (110F) or cold (-20F) conditions.
  • klughingklughing Member Posts: 12
    I'm not really a car guy but when i drive my new 2006 civic coupe, i felt like the car is shaking a lot. I feel it most obvious when i'm driving in a highway. At first, i thought it was the bumpy road but it wasn't like that when i was using another car. It feels like the car is rocking sideways, like it won't stay straight. What could be the source of the problem? Could it be the suspension?
  • juanelojuanelo Member Posts: 1
    Need help with the following for a 2000 civic ex; About a week ago I was driving when all of a sudden I heard a loud noise coming from the engine. When I checked it, I noticed that one of the spark plugs had come out of its socket completely. I bought another one thinking I could plug it in and drive the car home. Unfortunately, the spark plug would not tighten at all.

    I took the car to the mechanic who re-threaded the spark plug socket. When I asked what the original cause of the problem could have been, he said that whoever did the last tune up forced the spark plug in or tightened it too much.

    My concern is that I drove the car today and the wire that sits over the spark plug came off. All of the other wires fit snug over the spark plug but the one that is giving me the probem is loose. I got new wires and at first it fit but when I pulled it out, it would not tighten anymore. I'm afraid that the diagnosis my mechanic gave me is wrong and I do not want to be taken for a ride.

    Does anyone know what the problem may be? Should I just buy a new engine altogether?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    No, you dont need a new engine! That hole is probably stripped. A good shop can often install a Heli Coil in there. Worst case might be a different head.
  • ijsborkeijsborke Member Posts: 1
    This is normal when an 02 sensor fails and triggers a CEL. Replacing the sensor is only 99% of the fix; they should have reset the CEL using an ODBII tool. Although several restarts will usually turn off the light, a quicker fix is to remove the positive battery terminal and then get in the car and depress the brake pedal for 30 seconds. Re-attach the battery terminal, start the car and you should be good to go.

    Kudos to the nice folks at AutoZone for pulling CEL's gratis. Dealers will charge up to $50 to perform this same operation. Once AZ pulls the code; all you need do is look up the code on the 'net. Most CEL's are caused by either loose gas caps (screw those things on TIGHT) or bad 02 sensors.
  • chryschrys Member Posts: 1
    Is it hard to change a thermostat in a 91 honda civic? Im gonna try to do it myself..(by the way..Im a female) haha
    my car has been overheating for some time now. I have to put water in it everytime i go somewhere....drive a couple of miles and it back up in the red.....I dont have any leaks ...we have checked. I just dont understand what the problem is...my fan is working...before i change my water pump...i was told to try the thermostat first...(least expensive)
    so my question is ,.....is it difficult
  • bodydroptacobodydroptaco Member Posts: 1
    Is this an easy motor swap? I have a 91 hf that currently needs too much engine work. I used to own an 87 si (pulled everything in the engine bay and ecu) Had the bottom end rebuilt, bored out 20 over. Head rebuild, new crankshaft, clutch, and injectors. Will this be a step back? Should this be a fairly inexpensive motor swap? I'm a little tight on money, but want to enjoy this motor.
  • njdevil1njdevil1 Member Posts: 45
    as the owner of a 2005 civic ex se with manual transmission i think you should be doing your homework. We have over 25,000 miles with no problems (knock on wood) In fact we love the way the car shifts. I also agree with Honda it was probably driver error. Not everyone can drive shift, they should stick with automatic. My daughter tried to learn but gave up because she had to drive on congested road with alot of traffic lights and hills.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    With all due respect...

    If your Civic has been overheating for "some time" you may have a blown head gasket. Overheating an engine isn't a good thing to do once let alone every time you drive it.

    Replacing a thermostat isn't hard and it can't hurt anything. Just don't put it in backwards and make sure you don't overtighten the tiny bolts that hold it in.

    Good luck.
  • honda11honda11 Member Posts: 22
    Klughing;

    I posted this on the 06 Civic board, I thought it was the steering, You may find this helpful:

    (if message doesn't show up just check that board)

    Dan - and all with steering issues;

    I have beeen reading every review and post I can find on the net about this issue and as I am reading roads tests the sensitive steering issue is mentioned in several articles. One states the car not being able to track straight. This may be why you mention a pulling sensation to the right and the poster before you stating the the same thing during a test drive.

    I have not driven mine enough to pick up on that; just a lack of control and feeling like I have to steer all the time on something that that is so sensitive I feel nervous.

    Here is an excerpt from Canadian Car & Driver long term test on the hybrid version which decribes quite well what I am feeling. (sorry I don't know how to post links)

    "All 2006 Civics feature electric power assist provided by a motor rather than a hydrolic system. We're finding this a bit too noticable. Especially as the temperature drops. At low temps the steering seems to pick a line and follow it, until you correct it whereupon it picks another line and follows it. Rarely will it just go straight and respond to the type of familiar and minute adjustments you make with a hydraulic system"

    This concerns me that professional drivers are uncomfortable. How do I get used to a car that won't DRIVE STRAIGHT? I frankly don't think cold weather has anything to do with it.

    Dan, is this similar to how you feel and maybe the car isn't out of alignment and made this way?

    Thanks
  • crissmancrissman Member Posts: 145
    I believe it is only the hybrid Civics that have the electric power steering. This subject came up some time back. The steering on my EX is sensitive, but it's not a problem.
  • ejbartonejbarton Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Honda Civic LX. No problems with the usual maintenance. Had the 90000 mile service done which is included a timing belt, water pump, seals and even new plugs. Since the service the car has a vibration that is quite noticeable. It shakes rear view mirror and makes the muffler rattle. I feel it through the wheel and in my feet. It is worse with the car stopped at idle in gear. I have returned twice and they tell me there is nothing wrong. They readjusted the engine mounts and suggested I may need new engine mounts. The car continues to vibrate and there is some engine oil forming below the timing cover and the pan. I have done three mileage checks and it appears my mileage dropped from 33mpg avg to 30 mpg. They tell me if the timing belt was off only one notch the car would barely run. They have no solution for the problem and the ink on my $800 check is long dried. Any ideas out there? ejbarton
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Can you get a 2nd opinion and take it to a different dealer?
  • 944boy944boy Member Posts: 14
    Hey EJ
    the dealers pulling your timing belt you can retard and advance the timing belt up to 3 teeth on the belt and the car will still run ...sounds like they did a bad job and are trying to pass the buck without having to do any extra work take it to a smog center to check the timing and they should be able to give you a print out of the degree of advance or retard that its at now and that will give you a little paper trail ...that should help...give it to the dealer and have them make it right
    Later
    944boy
  • ejbartonejbarton Member Posts: 2
    944
    Thanks for the info. I have done the idle speed timing check with the system jumper as explained in the Haynes manual. Warm and in park the idle speed is 740rpm and the timing is on the red middle timing mark. So at least this simple test says it is ok. Can the test you mentioned tell more than the timing check? We live in podunk and don't have pollution check requirements.

    I actually have done two of these Civic timing belts with my son in the past. Well he is all grown up now and I am getting older. It was great bonding with him but it just wasn't worth it so I "took it in". Man do I wish I would have done it myself at this point.

    I've done all my own oil changes and the pan was dry before the service. Well I am taking it back because it is obvious to me now that the crack shaft seal is leaking as the wetness is coming at the timing cover. They will have to take it all apart again so maybe they will find something.

    The shop that did the service actually has a good reputation in my area. Foreign car specialists you know. I'm just having a bad experience. Do you think there is anything in their suggestion of replacing the engine mounts? It didn't vibrate like this before the service so I have a hard time thinking the mounts suddenly went bad.

    Thanks again.
    EJ
  • visheetalvisheetal Member Posts: 2
    Hi

    I have a honda civic 95, mileage 140k and expereincing a strange problem. I go for regular oil changes. The oil presuure gets low after every 200 miles, and I have to refill the oil. There are no leak spots where the car is parked, at home or in office, there is no smoke or smell that might give a hint of burning of oil. I took it to Jiffy Lubes and they suggested that the oil might be leaking from rear main seal or oil pan case gasket might need to be replaced. I donot have any idea what should I do. Pointers are welcome.

    Thanks
    Visheetal
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Have a cylinder leakdown test done on the engine. As for the possibility of a leak---- A leak that bad would spray oil all over your car's undercarriage and would be easy to spot on a lift or all over the driveway.
  • dave928dave928 Member Posts: 1
    I bought this car new. It is less than 3 yrs. old, 32,000 miles. Without any pattern or consistency it will act like it does not want to start, and when going very slow starts to shake. It also may do it at a higher speed. I just had it at the dealer on Friday, 3/24, and they could not duplicate the symptons. It ran fine over the weekend, but took a couple of tries to get it started this A.M.

    Am taking back to dealer on Monday - again....this car has had several nuisance problems, ex., air bag light on, door lock not working, replace air conditioner condenser (500.00) at 5,500 miles due to a "stone" that that pierced the "shield"(?), and now this.

    Is there any recommendation as to what to ask for if the car is not "sick" when the mechanic looks at it? I don't want to pay for parts and labor that is not necessary or does not resolve the problem. The car has always been to the dealer for all services.

    Thanks very much for your help.
  • visheetalvisheetal Member Posts: 2
    I took it to two mechanics yesterday, both of them confirmed that the engine is burning oil, but they had different opinions. One of them said that since there are no visible leaks outside, engine might have to be opened and then looked upon .. better replace the engine.
    The 2nd guy suggested that the valve heads might have gone wrong, he will have to look at it. The estimate cost of repairs is around $1000 - $1500. What should I do?

    As for the car they said that I can drive it with no issues just keep on putting the oil.

    :(

    Rgds
    Vishal
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if they haven't done a cylinder leakdown test they are just guessing.

    It could be as simple as valve stem seals (little rubber seals that go around the stems of the valves---this generally does not require engine disassembly of any kind).

    But the leakdown test will show you what is wearing out.
  • ryansmomryansmom Member Posts: 1
    how hard is it to change a water pump and is there any way someone may be able to describe it to me in steps i have a honda del sol 1.5 liter and on the head it says that it is a 16 valve... i have changed the head gasket 1 and changed the termostat 2 i got a new sensor and a new cap for the radiator i beleave that it is the water pump but not positive correct me if im wrong thanks ryan
  • porksnifferporksniffer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Civic EX 2dr, 5sp, with 100k miles.
    I've had this driver side suspension rattle for about a month now, and my mechanic claims everything checks out ok. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions on what to investigate first would be greatly appreciated.

    thanks
    George
  • 944boy944boy Member Posts: 14
    sorry for the delay in the reply EJ sounds like maybe the timing is ok..so..lets look at another area...did you do a simple vacum line inspection? they may have left one off ,cracked one, or crossed a pair? review the manual and trace the lines..its simple but boring
    944boy
  • lizzi001lizzi001 Member Posts: 4
    I'm hoping for some opinions about my recent experience with a new mechanic. I chose to go to this garage because it rated really well with a mechanic rating service. I went in to get a 4 wheel alignment. When I picked the car up, my engine light came on after driving for a few blocks. I took it back and he hooked up his computer and he found that my oxygen sensor was having a problem. He cleared the engine light and told me to come back if it came on again to have the oxygen sensor replaced. The light came back on less than 1 block later. I had this car serviced elsewhere a couple of weeks ago and it got the all clear. Does anyone think it's odd that the O2 sensor failed right after having the alignment done? Or am I just being paranoid? The mechanic seemed trustworthy and it's a family business that's been in the neighborhood for decades, but I'd like to hear what you all think. Thanks for your help!
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    An alignment and the O2 sensor are totally different. I can't imagine doing an alignment could somehow affect the O2 sensor. Maybe there's an expert mechanic that can chime in here.
  • thomaskotthomaskot Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I was curious if you ever determined what was causing the problem with your Civic. My '96 civic seems to be displaying the same problems. thanks.
  • lena6lena6 Member Posts: 5
    I bought 2006 Honda Civic 3 months ago. The second day I drove the car there was a strange vibrating noise while accerlating around 45 to 50 kph. It was intermittent. Did it more often when the weather was cold.

    Engine sounds loud with tapping sounds all the time.

    Squeaking intermittent under hood while driving.

    After shifting from drive to reverse and vice versa there
    is a strange sound for a couple of seconds . Kind of sounds like a power window going up or down.

    The dealer says they can not do anything about the vibration unless they can hear it on the hoist. The
    service manager has been out in the car and did hear this noise. Thinks it might be in the exhause system or heat
    sheilds.

    Does anyone else have these problems? Did the dealer fix it?
  • norelnorel Member Posts: 1
    Yeah, I have a 92 Civic VX as well, this stuttering has been occuring since I bought the car used about 7 years ago. I guess I got used to it, but now the condition seems worse than ever. My next step is to start replacing sensors one by one, already did O2 sensor, now maybe map and throttle positioning sensor (probably the problem, but not sure). Basically, it is impossible to feather the throttle in any gear without this hesitation and stutter. Full-on fine, but a light touch on the throttle is basically impossible.
    You're not alone whoever is reading this, but it has been very hard to remedy the problem, and no shop seems to claim to know anything about it. Good luck!
  • lawrencerhodeslawrencerhodes Member Posts: 3
    I have a simular problem. I have replaced cap, plugs, wires, pcv, fuelfilter. The problem happens after some warm up. Usually under load on hills or on flat freeway's under some load. It doesn't take much and goes away under hard acceleration & high rpm. Medium rpm and load is the usual problem area. If you find the problem let me know. My Mechanic says it's the distributor & I think he's guessing. Lawrence Rhodes..
  • ride2ride2 Member Posts: 2
    lmoore
    Did you figure out what the grinding and squeaking noise was? My wife drives a 99 model and about one week ago it intermittently started making a grinding/squeaking noise. Since then the noise is beginning to be more persistent. The noise seems to be coming from the front left wheel area. I removed both front wheels to inspect the rotors and brake pads, nothing obvious.
    Any help?
  • ride2ride2 Member Posts: 2
    sp0t
    Did you figure out what the grinding and squeaking noise was? My wife drives a 99 model and about one week ago it intermittently started making a grinding/squeaking noise. Since then the noise is only beginning to be more persistent. The noise seems to be coming from the front left wheel area. I removed both front wheels to inspect the rotors and brake pads, nothing obvious.
    Any help?
  • p10paulp10paul Member Posts: 1
    I have 2000 honda civic ex and the check engine light came on the code reader says its the Knock sensor any one know how to replace it ? and what steps to follow ....
  • glfnut4glfnut4 Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a Civic Hybrid and want to have a seperate set of rims for snow tires. Dealer said he thinks OEM steel rims from Civic DX will fit. But doesn't know for sure. Any help?????
  • lawrencerhodeslawrencerhodes Member Posts: 3
    Try going around a corner and listen to the sound. Here is the classic symptom of a failed wheel bearing. If the noise goes away on a left turn (or gets quieter) it is the left bearing. If the sound lessens (or goes away)on right turns it is the right bearing. You can do this at high speeds on a freeway but you have to be careful. Make sure you are by yourself. That's it. A very easy test. Lawrence Rhodes..
  • laurap311laurap311 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 Civic DX with 145,000 miles, though I had to replace the engine with a used Japanese engine. Shortly after I did that, my car started acting like it was out of gas when I had about 1/4 tank or less, especially if I was parked on a hill. Three years later, it's still running but doing the same thing at about 1/2 tank. I know the gauge is working. What possibly could it be? I've replaced so many things in this car: main relay, fuel filter, alternator, engine, etc. It runs awesome right now though I'm also lacking dash/tail/reverse lights and it's not the fuse!!
    Thanks for your help anyone who can answer!
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