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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Thanks,
Stanleys
Good Luck
Honda Service Bulletin dated March 23, 1999
Symptom: the right side windows do not respond to the driver's door
window switches and the power door locks do not work.
Probable cause: battery power to the multiplex control unit has been
interrupted.
corrective action: perform multiplex control unit wake-up procedure.
Warranty Claim Info:
operation number: 746505
failed part: P/N 35256-s84-a01
H/C 5435482
defect code: 066
contention code: B99
template ID: 99-022A
Repair Procedure:
1. turn the ignition switch off
2. turn the wiper intermittent time ring to the middle position.
3. turn the ignition switch to on.
4. check the operation of all the power windows from the master
power window switch and the power door locks.
if the power windows and locks function properly, return the
vehicle to the customer. if the power windows and locks are still
inoperative, perform normal troubleshooting and refer to the Service
Bulletin 98-071
My question is two fold. First, does this sound like a regulator problem. Second is the regulator in the alternator on a 2001 Honda Civic. So if I replace the alternator, charge my week old battery, I will be smooth saling?
Thanks,
dpkesler
For any Honda engine, you can also look for the existence of the VTEC actuators, which would look something like this:
While the picture above has it nicely represented on the valve cover, if you look to the left of the valve cover, you'll see the actuator on the left, below the spark plug wires, near the distributor. It's the brassy-looking cylinder, kind of shaped like a top hat. Depending upon the specific engine, you'll have 1 or 2 of these actuators, corresponding with the number of VTEC stages (2 or 3).
If the engine stamp says D16Y5, then while it's still a VTEC, it's actually from an HX model, which is set up for fuel efficiency (115hp). The D16Y7 is the standard engine (106hp).
What concerns me is that this might indicate a larger problem with the transmission. I took it to a Honda dealer who wanted to charge me about $500 to tear the tranny down to see if there was a problem. Only then would they be able to tell me if the extended ("Certified Vehicle") warranty would apply.
Since it shifts well otherwise, I am reminded of the Doctor's response to the patient who said "It hurts when I do this." ("So, don't do that.") but that doesn't answer the concern.
Does anybody have any experience/insight into this issue?
fuel door fix
It is cost effective and very easy to install!
now i just purchace 4 use tire, put it in the car and the steering wheel turn to the left a little bit when i drive. do i need to do wheel alignment. where is the good place to go to?
My '06 Civic sedan LX AT downshifts when I put on the brake to go downhill. I don't know if this is the same thing you are talking about. It's weird. The car doesn't just coast downhill like you'd expect.
This is by design, and one of my favorite things about Honda transmissions. The grade logic mimics a stick-shift and will automatically help you control downhill speed. You can read more about it here: transmission logic
It does help with the cops who sit at the bottom of the hills waiting for the folks who blow down. It keeps me at the speed limit.
Drove out of the driveway this morning and heard "the rattle" in the dash. I drove for about 3 miles, hit the drive-thru, and the rattle went away. It seemed that after the car warmed up, the rattle stopped. Of course, this still ruined my day. (Was it the cold weather? This was one of the first cool mornings of the year, 55 degrees.)
I own a standard 99 Civic with approx. 90,000 miles. This week, I've begun to notice some electrical issues.
The first thing I noticed was when I tap the brake, the speedometer needle drops and then recovers, and the clock on the dashboard flickers. It doesn't happen all the time; it seems to be intermittent and I haven't nailed down a pattern. Today, while sitting in my driveway, I was messing around with various electrical components, and when I tried raising all four power windows at once, the engine stalled.
The car has a 4-week old battery; the old one was dead one morning so I simply replaced it. I checked the connections to the battery and they seem ok; There are some acid deposits on the '+' terminal that I didn't clean off very well, but the connector is firmly screwed onto the post.
The car starts up perfectly, which indicates the battery is healthy enough to handle a start.
I'm hoping this is an alternator issue and not some weird electrical short somewhere.
Thanks,
nose1
If the brakes have been on there for a month would it be too late to turn the rotors?
If there is no obvious "damage" or anything of that nature, should I just let it go? It sounds like my brakes are going metal to metal when this does happen...
Any input would be appreciated.
Is there any way for a mechanic to check and see if the timing belt has been replaced before I buy it? (As far as I know, there aren't any available service records) Total shot in the dark, I know, but I'd hate to buy this car, then immediately have to put in a timing belt, water pump, etc.
Of course, I could always ask the dealership to knock the 1k off the price. I think I already know what they'll say...
I did some investigation and it appears that when the clutch pedal is compressed it bottoms out against a purple plastic stop. This stop has some movement and I believe it is what I am feeling. Has anyone else experienced this or know if the stop can be secured somehow? Thanks in advance.
Right now Im' having troubles with power (I think). When I depress the brakes, or perhaps have hte rear defrost on, or even turn on the radio, the RPM's will decrease. It's coming to the point when I'm running all these items at the same time the internal dashboard lights are all dimmer. If I look closely the daytime running lights dim when I press the brakes as well. i'm not sure where to begin diagnosis... I think I'm hearing a belt rattle when the car is first started and its cold (alternator region right in front fo the driver).
The only thing I've done recently is add a stereo system. Only a little mini sub is running on my amp but I have connected directly to the battery.....Perhaps the contacts are worn?
Any thoughts what this could be? thanks in advance.
scale in a radiator can definitely impair heat transfer, I'd at least flush it if not take the radiator out and shake as much gunk out as possible.
also, are you running the correct ratio of antifreeze to water? straight coolant has a pretty poor heat carrying capacity and you can overheat (esp on highway driving) even with an intact, functioning cooling system.
my two cents, good luck.
Ultimately the best thing you can do, funds permitting and you know they are both old, change both ball joints it will save you time and money in the long run, especially if they are the sorts of ball joints that have to be ‘pressed’ in to the frame. I would also suggest you get the upper one’s checked as well. However if you don’t have the funds to change it at the moment, I have been told a way of reducing the noise at least for a while.
I have tried this myself and it worked for about 6 weeks, 1) Remove the wheel, jack the car, 2) locate the offending Ball joint. Now there is a retaining clip at the top of the ball joint rubber boot, remove carefully making sure not to puncture the rubber boot, peel back very carefully the rubber boot to expose the inside of the ball joint. Apply a liberal amount of grease and reverse the procedure. A few things to remember,1) Make sure once the vehicle has been jacked up, it is properly secure with axle stands etc, 2) I can’t stress enough how important it is not to split/damage the rubber boot, doing this will just defeat the whole object, 3) this is a messy job so be sure to wear some rubber gloves, 4) If you don't feel confident with attempting any of the above, don't do it.
Good Luck!
I dont see any difference and its still giving me same kind of sounds from engine when driving.
Spend more than $700 and dont have any percitible difference and dont know if anything was done at all.
You'll find a number of discussions listed at the top level of this group: Honda Civic. When you are ready to post, please check the discussion list there for the appropriate discussion to post in. If there doesn't appear to be a discussion for the issue or problem you have, feel free to create one. We can deal with accidental duplication of topics as things progress.
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Thanks for your understaning and help in making this group a great resource of information for Civic owners!