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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • i have a 95 626 2.0 4 cyl 626
    the idle is real low have tried to adjust it but cant get the screw to turn also lately when the a/c is on the car runs hot has NOT over heated lol because i turn it off helllllllp
  • My Mazda 626, 1995, LX, 4Cyl, 2.0L has just got a rebuilt transmission, but keep having oil leakage problem. The garage has tried for many times, still have not solved the problem. Today, they told me something wrong with the oil cooling system, when drive for some time, trany oil gets very hot, expands and leaks out from the breather. But when I get the car back tonite, it still leaks. I did see any oil come out from the breather. Could some give me some suggestions?
  • 1995 mazda 4 cyl a/t 626

    i noticed an oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket. i was looking to see how much trouble it would be to remove the cover. there is an air condition line that runs over the top and i don't think there will be enough slack in it to allow the cover to be removed. will i have to remove the a/c compressor in order to get enough slack in the line to allow the valve cover to be removed. please advise. thanks, john
  • I seem to have hit the Unsubscribe button at some point. (Nothing surprises me anymore, not even seeing three '95s in a row.)

    Pulling the valve cover gasket: I'd expect more trouble with the power-steering pump, which is mounted fairly close in.

    Cooling tranny oil: The "cooler" is a section within the radiator, and not enough of one, if you ask me. Have them add on an auxiliary cooler, or get another garage.

    Idle: Not adjustable. You can turn the mixture screw all you want and it won't change the computer's tiny mind one whit. If you're running hot with the A/C on, the electric fan array is probably not doing its job.
  • I have a 1993 626 ES V6 stick (sounds like the stick is better from what I've read). Just got the timing belt done at 90k (figured I had used up my luck there), also the water pump, as it was leaking. I also had to get the axle replaced as I didn't notice a busted CV boot in time (axle part is $99, includes boot and joint). Also the front valve cover gasket.

    (By the way, if anybody lives in the Orlando FL area, I know a great mechanic for foreign cars, honest and reasonable. For example, I was quoted $1100 for a replacment A/C compressor from another place (my mechanic was in the hospital). I lived without A/C until he got out, and replaced the compressor for $250, and converted it to R-134).

    Anyhow, my issue is that the CV boots on this car keep wearing out, every 10,000 miles it seems. My mechanic says he could make a living changing CV boots for 626's. Does anyone else have this problem?
    Also, the car is still leaking water, but the symptoms have changed. It drips a lot when I start it up and start moving. I may have overfilled the emergency coolant, would that cause this?

    Other than the A/C and the @%#$$ CV boots, the car is great. I taught my wife to drive a stick, and she loves this car so much that I have to drive the mini-van!! (don't worry, I have a 92 Nissan Sentra for going to work - very economical..)
  • Typical lifetime of the CV boots, from what I've seen, seems to be 60k to 80k; I lost one boot on my '93 at 85k, and the second was on its way. Then again, I'm a long way from the ocean.

    If the overflow tank is overfull, yes, it can slosh stuff out of its top. (Normally, it should appear to be about half full.)
  • HI all,
    I have a 1993 mazda 626 5 spd. with 215,000 miles. Since the last 30,000 miles I have been putting Mobil 1 10w-30 Synthetic and I was wondering if this is bad for my car or even simply a waste of my money. It s just that I have not noticed a difference one way or the other, and infact someone told me that I should not be using synthetic oil in such a high mileage car. Thanks for any advice.

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Unless you want to pay for oil seal repairs. Synthetic cleans out the conventional oil deposits that keep the engine seals from leaking (pinholes). Then once it exposes the hole it gushes all over. Much more than a leak with conventional. It cost me some bucks to get that repair fixed since I had to do the timing belt as well. Conventional swells seals slightly, and while syn doesn't harden the seals, neither does it soften them.

    Seriously if it's been running synthetic before keep it up. But it it's been used to conventional I would drain out half of the synthetic and replace it with conventional.

    Never had a problem with seals on a 50--50 mix of Maxlife and synthetic. Get 2-3 gallons better on gas mileage too.
  • I have a 1995 4 cyl auto 626 with 100,000 miles on it, and it has just developed a transmission fluid leak through the breather hose. The fluid does not look or smell burnt and there is no change in the performance of the car indicating slippage, but it still drips about a tablespoon of oil every 60 or 70 miles. I've been told it could be an overheating problem or it might be a worn or broken gasket inside the transmission. How many people have had the same problem and has anybody been able to find a solution?
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Anyone have any experience with the windshield defrost not working? On my 94 626 (which I bought used this summer) I've just discovered that no air comes out of the windshield defrost vents, no matter which button I push on the dash controls. Also, air always comes out of the dash vents, even if I turn off the little dial that is supposed to shut them off when that air in in the defrost or foot heat position.

    I can get air to come out of the foot vents. Seems to me some mechanism may be broken or out of adjsutment. Anyone here have any experience with this?

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Did your heat ducts to the defrost break or get disconnected?
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    I suppose that's possible, but unlikeley. I'll have to get under the dash & maybe take it apart to see if I can find anything obvious that's broken. I'm jsut wondering if there's a known problem or weak spot with this. If I can't figure it out, it will have to bo off to the mechanic.

  • jskhojskho Posts: 107
    When you press the defrost button, do you here the sound of the motor?
    I would think the motor is the likely culprit.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    Years ago I had a Plymouth where the flexible pipe that carried the air would become disconnected. We would have to reconnect it then tape it with Red-Greens universal solution (duct tape) and then it would work for a while.

    Didn't have to pull out the dash.
  • Been doing brakes for two weekends now. Last weekend on a Protege, today on the 626 (95 L4, ATX). The idiots at the last place I took it for the state inspection cross-threaded two lug-nuts, so after trying to get them out, I broke the studs. So the break job turned into a stud replacement. Then I realized I needed a 7 mm allen to remove the caliper. Oh, well, I am fortunate to have a parts shop nearby, so I walked, got all the extra stuff I needed, walked back, and proceded to do everything.

    It went well at the end. One thing I noticed, although I saw the guide plates for the pads (the convoluted metal plates), I did not see any V-springs. Every place I read talks about them, and I remember the Protege I did last weekend had them too. Did certain models did not use them? Should I have them there? I figure that if the pads are not springing back, the brakes would drag like crazy, and it seemed (and seems) to brake fine - No drag whatsoever. Should I get them and put them there? The problem I had that prompted me to do the brakes (vibrations form warped rotors) is gone, so I figure everything is OK. Tell me if it is not...

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Pads don't "spring back". Guide plates take up any clearance between the ends of the pads and their supports, preventing the pads from rattling over bumps or clunking due to clocking when they're applied. They also reduce wear on the buttress where the pad ends contact.

    All conventional disc brakes retract the piston and provide automatic self adjustment the same way. The lathe-cut high pressure seal between the caliper housing and piston distorts under brake apply as the piston moves outward, then relaxes and pulls the piston back slightly when pressure's released. That provides running clearance for the pads, IF a caliper piston isn't seized and the caliper slides are free and lubricated.
  • OK, got it, and understand it. But back to the original question: should or shouldn't I have V-springs? I don't see why they were there on the tiny Protege, but not on the 626...

  • I seem to recall that my '93 626 didn't have them either.

    I'm still running on the original pads on my 2000 (which can't last too much longer), so I can't speak for it.
  • Windowphobe, thanks for the info. As usual, you are probably right. What I figure is that when the pistons retract (making the caliper move back), the anti-squeal on the pads will make them move with it, and the guide plates will also help. However, the 'drawing' in chilton's has them, and when I called NAPA they tell me that my year model needs them (their caliper hardware kit has them...).

    Anyone else out there has experience with this?
  • 2001 ES with discs on front, shoes on rear. Anyone had any experience with replacements--best to use, e.g., braking performance, wear, noise, etc.?
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    have worked very well for me on replacement brakes. They last a lot longer for me than the original type.
  • Recently heard 626's since 1995 have cronic transmission problems. To the point a class action suit was filed. Has anyone heard this too?
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I understand that the later models are much better than the early to min 90's auto tranny's. Thank heavens my 1991 is a stick. Only problem I've had is that I had a seal between the transmission and the floor that wore out after 10 years.
  • The threat is ubiquitous, but you never hear of one of these actually going to trial, and inasmuch as most of the failures are out of warranty, I doubt you ever will.

    '94 and '95 are the peak years for tranny troubles.
  • Thanks for the input. Loved my was a manual. Hate my 97 w/automatic. Wondering if I should dump it now or wait another year like I hoped. I know it has engine sludge but it runs OK for now. Idle pulses low and power not great.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    If it's not too bad contact I had a Dodge that had mild sludge due to a small head gasket leak and this stuff cleaned it out and made the engine run much smoother. Some of the Toyota owners also used it for their vehicles as well.
  • bill_lbill_l Posts: 38
    My 88' 626 runs great. But recently it is sometimes overheating. I can feel the upper and lower rubber pipes are stiff, seems very high pressure in them. Sometimes it happened after 10 mins local driving, but sometimes nothing happened even after half an hour. Could it be head gasket broken or radiator cap failure, or...? Can anyone imagine what could be the problem? Any comments will be highly appreciated.
  • tdreotdreo Posts: 17
    I just bought a new 2002 626 4 cylinder automatic.
    I had a 2001 626 4 cylinder automatic that was about 1.5 years old that went to my son who just got his license. The 2001 had the transmission replaced at 21,000 miles. From day one I had noticed an "oil" smell while driving. I was told that "there is no oil smell" so I changed dealers with my complaint. The new dealer re-routed the tranny vent line and most of the smell went away. I guess the real problem was the tranny was getting too hot and that was causing the smell, although the fluid level was always fine. To get to the point, my 2002 now has an extra cooler for the transmission (mounted in front of the radiator. I guess better late than never, thanks Mazda! I have put 200 miles on it with no "smell". I feel confident there should be no tranny problems in this 626. I guess I should add the cooler to my sons car now so he won't have any problems.

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    always adds an extra cooler if the transmission has to have replacement or serious service. They say it's well worth the money.

    I would also consider adding Lubegard. It cools the fluid and reduces corrosive acids.
  • After 144,000 miles, almost time to hand it over to the kids. I just might get them a Protege, I love my 626 so much. The only complaint is that four times I have had front end problems, the first time Mazda replaced the axle and the whole assembly N/C factory ordered upgrade. Seems that the boots are plastic and need replacing fairly frequently. Still original Clutch, engine has never been cracked open...uses 1qt of oil every 3500 miles. Even my garage floor is [non-permissible content removed] and span. Is it luck?
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