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Comments
The G signal does interact with the pulse generator, so that seems plausible enough about the Hold light. (I thought NE1 was code 2, but I could be wrong.)
Actually, given the exchange rate, that sounds fairly cheap for a distributor. Nothing makes oxygen sensors sound cheap, alas.
I often drive my car to beach with my girlfriend and she always likes to sit in the car and listen to the music - oh, it's Sarah Mclachlan's Angel and she repeats it again and again for hours. It's romantic, but sometime I have to worry about the durability of the battery. If it goes dead, we will be left there in late night without any help in close reach. Does someone here know normally how many hours a full-charged battery can run with only the CD player and speakers on?
Thanks for any help or general advice for a new owner (other than to tell me I made a mistake, which it would do me no good to hear at this point).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
My guess on Harold's new electrical woes is that the alarm system has gone south. Look how many things tie to it: the door locks, the door-open indicator, even the headlights (which blink if the alarm is set off). This doesn't explain the radio, exactly, but it's the best I can do without a circuit tester.
Oh, and thanks, Fritz. Since I've owned two, that means between the two of us, we've averaged one apiece.
And for the life of me, I can't figure out how long it will take to drain the battery without, um, actually draining the battery. I have gone about 55 minutes with no ill effects, but that's a long way from "hours".
Trussville Mazda down in Alabama (which used to be Roebuck Mazda when it was somewhere else in Alabama) used to sell the ignition module, which is integrated with the distributor, separately - and by mail, yet. I dont know the current price, but its got to be less than the price of a whole distributor. It might not hurt to drop them a line - they're on the Web at www.trussvillemazda.com - and see if it's worth it to attack the problem piecemeal.
I have a '97 626 LX (canadian) V6 2.5 litre.
Sometimes, while pressing the accelerator, at low speeds, less than 80 km (50mph) an hour, I will hear a "rattling" almost vibration-like sound coming from underneath the car. The sound will stop immediately after I release the gas pedal or if I disengage OD (although sometimes it happens while OD is disengaged as well, but it always stops if I'm in OD and then disengage it).
The problem seems sporadic. Sometimes a week will go by with no noise, and then it starts again. When I do have this noise, it only lasts for a few seconds, then will disappear for the rest of the drive.
I'm concerned, but not worried. Should I be worried?
Crawl under there and bang some things around and see if any of its loose. Sometimes that won't even help, though, because it may not be loose enough for you to move by hand. but, its worth a shot. If you find out that's what it is, its nothing to worry about, just annoying.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Also had to replace the distributor at about 60,000. It was horrendously expensive, no alternative but from dealer. I have now seen that a rebuilt one is available from either www.expressautoparts.co or www.autoparts.com.
Fortunately car has been troublefree since then, now at 80,000 miles.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
"Brake dust shield" makes sense to me, especially since they're fairly easy to shake loose if you're working around axles. Besides, if you had any other serious suspension problems, they'd have tried to sell you the pertinent parts along with the new struts.
And let's face it, brakes produce a lot of heat, and it's gotta go somewhere....
Dave G.
Did you try rattling the window when you had the door panel off? Is the noise coming from the bracket or is it coming from the top of the window where it is inside the track at the top of the door?
If its at the top, then either the weather stripping in the window track is worn down, or its gone altogether. Replacing it should fix the problem. The new rubber will hold the window in place and keep it from rattling.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Sep 00 had o2 sensors replaced
Mar 01 transmission gone again...just got it back from the shop. That is near $4000 in repairs in a year. mileage is high (125k) ARGH.
A jump in RPM of this size suggests to me that the direct clutch, which cuts in once you hit third, isn't engaging as fast as it ought to be - or alternatively, the SS2 shift solenoid (I'm assuming this is the LA4A-EL tranny) isn't switching fast enough.
On the other hand, at least with the four-cylinder, 3500 rpm is a good shift point.
Your first order of business should be to have any codes pulled. (The automatic 626 was switched to OBD II in '94, I believe, so you'll need a scan tool.) This should identify the crapped-out component, which could be electrical or an internal tranny part.
And it has been Mazda policy for some time to replace any transmission that requires any repair beyond a routine seal, pump or gasket replacement, even if it is only a single part that's gone troppo.
There is a single reverse clutch (I'm using the CD4E as the example here, but others are similar) that engages only when the R position is selected, and all the other clutches are out of position. Of course, if you're not stopped yet, the other clutches aren't yet out of position. The results are pretty much what you can expect when you try to put two things in the same place at the same time.
Shifting to P while moving tries to lock up all those parts, and if they're still moving, they will provide resistance, which contributes to wear, be it on the parking pawl or on the gearset. Neither of these is something you want.
If you have to take the thing out of gear for some reason while you're moving, there's always Neutral.
The following old two-digit codes fall into the non-memorized category, or at least did on the '93s:
25 (fuel pressure regulator)
26 (purge control)
28 (EGR valve)
34 (idle speed control)
65 (torque-converter lockup solenoid)
67/68 (cooling-fan relay)
Maybe this will narrow it down somewhat....
I noticed that Msg#20 also mentioned air flow meter broke down. I am thinking of purchasing the part myself from some online store (I remeber someone talked about this in this board), and asking some mechanics install it for me. Or could it be possible that I install it myself?
It's fairly DIY-able, I think; you need to pull the intake hose, detach the wiring, remove some bolts, and pull the thing off the air-cleaner housing. Rocket science, it isn't.